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Old 08-11-09, 10:35 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Loctite for Intake Manifold Carb Studs?

I've been fighting with a reacurring vacuum leak at the base of my carb on the 40. Seems the studs tend to loosen themselves up after driving.

I'm replacing the carb insolator pad with a new one, new gaskets and was thinking of using loctite on the studs in the intake manifold holes.

Anyone done this before or see an issue with using loctite here?

Jon


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Olde North State Cruisers
'97 40th OEM Locked - F.O.R. GEN II - CDL - 315 Toyo MTs - slee'd - ipor'd - custom drawers
'74 40 - lifted, locked, PTO'd, 4+ rear bumper, 4+ flip kit (F&R), and other stuff
'06 Chevy Duramax - DD and Tow Rig
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Old 08-11-09, 11:01 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I haven't ever used loctite but I would be sure and use the blue instead of the red (High Strength) keep in mind it's aluminum (softer metal) so it's going to be a bit easier to strip if they get to tight with loctite when trying to remove (if ever needed too).


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Olde North State Cruisers
95 FZJ80, "D" light works...oh and a few other things
92 P/U, 1KZ-TE/R151F 5 Speed M/T Diesel, 2" OME, 255/85/16, DD. July ROTM
79 FJ55, 2F w/1.5F Head and 3FE manifolds, H55F/Split Case, Factory PS, Rusty but I'm working on it...
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Old 08-11-09, 11:09 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by southerncruiser62 View Post
I haven't ever used loctite but I would be sure and use the blue instead of the red (High Strength) keep in mind it's aluminum (softer metal) so it's going to be a bit easier to strip if they get to tight with loctite when trying to remove (if ever needed too).
Makes sense.

I think the main problem is the threads are already screwed so I was thinking that I just try to permanantly mount the studs in there. I can't think of a situation where I'd need to remove them...


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Olde North State Cruisers
'97 40th OEM Locked - F.O.R. GEN II - CDL - 315 Toyo MTs - slee'd - ipor'd - custom drawers
'74 40 - lifted, locked, PTO'd, 4+ rear bumper, 4+ flip kit (F&R), and other stuff
'06 Chevy Duramax - DD and Tow Rig
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Old 08-11-09, 11:35 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I can't think of a situation where I'd need to remove them...
If you ever stripped them, while you may change out your exhaust manifolds down the road it isn't likely you will change the intake manifold unless you went 3FE-2F block.

Might be worth chasing the stud holes and then run to a hardware store and get new studs, have you consider maybe running a small lock washer under the nuts to "keep things tight"


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Olde North State Cruisers
95 FZJ80, "D" light works...oh and a few other things
92 P/U, 1KZ-TE/R151F 5 Speed M/T Diesel, 2" OME, 255/85/16, DD. July ROTM
79 FJ55, 2F w/1.5F Head and 3FE manifolds, H55F/Split Case, Factory PS, Rusty but I'm working on it...
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Old 08-11-09, 11:45 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by southerncruiser62 View Post
Might be worth chasing the stud holes and then run to a hardware store and get new studs, have you consider maybe running a small lock washer under the nuts to "keep things tight"
Didn't think about the lock washer but thats a good idea and I'll try that. I'm open to others if there is a magic fix as this is becoming a pain in the @ss.


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Jon
Olde North State Cruisers
'97 40th OEM Locked - F.O.R. GEN II - CDL - 315 Toyo MTs - slee'd - ipor'd - custom drawers
'74 40 - lifted, locked, PTO'd, 4+ rear bumper, 4+ flip kit (F&R), and other stuff
'06 Chevy Duramax - DD and Tow Rig
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Old 08-11-09, 03:06 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Loctite, brass nuts, and lock washers should do the trick.

R


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Olde North State Cruisers - "And if I die in Raleigh, At least I will die free"
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Old 08-12-09, 11:23 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by mtweller View Post
Loctite, brass nuts, and lock washers should do the trick.

R
Cool - thanks Ramon.

I had to order some brass nuts. No place in Burlington had any in stock.

I assume the benefit is they are softer and form to the lock washers better than a tyipical nut?


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Olde North State Cruisers
'97 40th OEM Locked - F.O.R. GEN II - CDL - 315 Toyo MTs - slee'd - ipor'd - custom drawers
'74 40 - lifted, locked, PTO'd, 4+ rear bumper, 4+ flip kit (F&R), and other stuff
'06 Chevy Duramax - DD and Tow Rig
S4Cruiser is online now   Reply With Quote
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