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08-11-09, 10:35 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Burlington, NC
Posts: 718
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Loctite for Intake Manifold Carb Studs?
I've been fighting with a reacurring vacuum leak at the base of my carb on the 40. Seems the studs tend to loosen themselves up after driving.
I'm replacing the carb insolator pad with a new one, new gaskets and was thinking of using loctite on the studs in the intake manifold holes.
Anyone done this before or see an issue with using loctite here?
 Jon
__________________
Jon
Olde North State Cruisers
'97 40th OEM Locked - F.O.R. GEN II - CDL - 315 Toyo MTs - slee'd - ipor'd - custom drawers
'74 40 - lifted, locked, PTO'd, 4+ rear bumper, 4+ flip kit (F&R), and other stuff
'06 Chevy Duramax - DD and Tow Rig
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08-11-09, 11:01 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: NORTH CAROLINA
Posts: 2,249
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I haven't ever used loctite but I would be sure and use the blue instead of the red (High Strength) keep in mind it's aluminum (softer metal) so it's going to be a bit easier to strip if they get to tight with loctite when trying to remove (if ever needed too).
__________________
Greg
Olde North State Cruisers
95 FZJ80, "D" light works...oh and a few other things
92 P/U, 1KZ-TE/R151F 5 Speed M/T Diesel, 2" OME, 255/85/16, DD. July ROTM
79 FJ55, 2F w/1.5F Head and 3FE manifolds, H55F/Split Case, Factory PS, Rusty but I'm working on it...
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08-11-09, 11:09 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Burlington, NC
Posts: 718
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Quote:
Originally Posted by southerncruiser62
I haven't ever used loctite but I would be sure and use the blue instead of the red (High Strength) keep in mind it's aluminum (softer metal) so it's going to be a bit easier to strip if they get to tight with loctite when trying to remove (if ever needed too).
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Makes sense.
I think the main problem is the threads are already screwed so I was thinking that I just try to permanantly mount the studs in there. I can't think of a situation where I'd need to remove them...
__________________
Jon
Olde North State Cruisers
'97 40th OEM Locked - F.O.R. GEN II - CDL - 315 Toyo MTs - slee'd - ipor'd - custom drawers
'74 40 - lifted, locked, PTO'd, 4+ rear bumper, 4+ flip kit (F&R), and other stuff
'06 Chevy Duramax - DD and Tow Rig
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08-11-09, 11:35 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: NORTH CAROLINA
Posts: 2,249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S4Cruiser
I can't think of a situation where I'd need to remove them...
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If you ever stripped them, while you may change out your exhaust manifolds down the road it isn't likely you will change the intake manifold unless you went 3FE-2F block.
Might be worth chasing the stud holes and then run to a hardware store and get new studs, have you consider maybe running a small lock washer under the nuts to "keep things tight"
__________________
Greg
Olde North State Cruisers
95 FZJ80, "D" light works...oh and a few other things
92 P/U, 1KZ-TE/R151F 5 Speed M/T Diesel, 2" OME, 255/85/16, DD. July ROTM
79 FJ55, 2F w/1.5F Head and 3FE manifolds, H55F/Split Case, Factory PS, Rusty but I'm working on it...
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08-11-09, 11:45 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Burlington, NC
Posts: 718
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Quote:
Originally Posted by southerncruiser62
Might be worth chasing the stud holes and then run to a hardware store and get new studs, have you consider maybe running a small lock washer under the nuts to "keep things tight"
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Didn't think about the lock washer but thats a good idea and I'll try that. I'm open to others if there is a magic fix as this is becoming a pain in the @ss.
__________________
Jon
Olde North State Cruisers
'97 40th OEM Locked - F.O.R. GEN II - CDL - 315 Toyo MTs - slee'd - ipor'd - custom drawers
'74 40 - lifted, locked, PTO'd, 4+ rear bumper, 4+ flip kit (F&R), and other stuff
'06 Chevy Duramax - DD and Tow Rig
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08-11-09, 03:06 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Olde North State Cruisers
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Morrisville NC
Posts: 1,442
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Loctite, brass nuts, and lock washers should do the trick.
 R
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"Ramon" Weller
'78 FJ40 - Dune Beige - SOA (FJ55 rears, flipped fronts), SM465, MT Tube Fenders, MT Family Cage, 35x10.5 BFG MT, Aussie Rear, ARB Front, Saginaw, 8274-50, homebrew bumpers
Olde North State Cruisers - "And if I die in Raleigh, At least I will die free"
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08-12-09, 11:23 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Burlington, NC
Posts: 718
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtweller
Loctite, brass nuts, and lock washers should do the trick.
 R
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Cool - thanks Ramon.
I had to order some brass nuts. No place in Burlington had any in stock.
I assume the benefit is they are softer and form to the lock washers better than a tyipical nut?
__________________
Jon
Olde North State Cruisers
'97 40th OEM Locked - F.O.R. GEN II - CDL - 315 Toyo MTs - slee'd - ipor'd - custom drawers
'74 40 - lifted, locked, PTO'd, 4+ rear bumper, 4+ flip kit (F&R), and other stuff
'06 Chevy Duramax - DD and Tow Rig
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