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Old 08-08-09, 11:24 AM   #1 (permalink)
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a few tools and a hood = another mod

well, I haven't overheated yet but have noticed the temps under my hood get very hot. so i found some 95' gta hood vents on fle-bay and grabbed a drill, jigsaw and a drimel and went to work.














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94' de-flared FJ80 on OME heavies with slee blue's on some 33's, Aussie locked rear, ARB front loaded with a re12000 & Kaymar rear, home made sliders, budbuilt drag links and 250K+ on the clock. cdl switch w/7-pin.
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Old 08-08-09, 12:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
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That looks great and serves a good purpose awesome job.


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landcruisers don't just happen because a tornado goes through a junk yard (that would be a jeep) they are built and assemble in the way their designer planned.
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Old 08-08-09, 01:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Eric, those look great on there, I know you were looking to cool things done under the hood, looks like possibly the best option. I assume rainwater can't affect whatever is underneath the vent areas?


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Olde North State Cruisers
95 FZJ80, "D" light works...oh and a few other things
92 P/U, 1KZ-TE/R151F 5 Speed M/T Diesel, 2" OME, 255/85/16, DD. July ROTM
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Old 08-08-09, 03:05 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks, all. I did one a couple weeks ago and finished the other this morning. So far the amount of rain water i have seen has been pretty minimal. we will have to wait and see how it works out long term.


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94' de-flared FJ80 on OME heavies with slee blue's on some 33's, Aussie locked rear, ARB front loaded with a re12000 & Kaymar rear, home made sliders, budbuilt drag links and 250K+ on the clock. cdl switch w/7-pin.
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Old 08-08-09, 03:28 PM   #5 (permalink)
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About time you posted these up Eric looking good. Greg, nothing but motor under the vents...now he can clean off the engine compartment during a heavy down pour
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Old 08-08-09, 07:15 PM   #6 (permalink)
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My concern would be any electricals, the drivers side is kindof close to the EFI and main fuse/relay block


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Olde North State Cruisers
95 FZJ80, "D" light works...oh and a few other things
92 P/U, 1KZ-TE/R151F 5 Speed M/T Diesel, 2" OME, 255/85/16, DD. July ROTM
79 FJ55, 2F w/1.5F Head and 3FE manifolds, H55F/Split Case, Factory PS, Rusty but I'm working on it...
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Old 08-08-09, 08:08 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I hear you. But the connectors are actually designed to stand up to the elements and sealed pretty good. I have never had any issues with a pressure washer and don't feel a little rain water will do any worse. time will tell though.


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Eric J
94' de-flared FJ80 on OME heavies with slee blue's on some 33's, Aussie locked rear, ARB front loaded with a re12000 & Kaymar rear, home made sliders, budbuilt drag links and 250K+ on the clock. cdl switch w/7-pin.
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Old 08-09-09, 06:00 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Very cool Eric. Had you been measuring underhood temps? I'm curious how much these help lower the temp.


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Old 08-09-09, 07:34 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Awesome...Looks really good and I bet it will work pretty well as well. It seems when things are over heating it really does only take that little extra bit to cool it down.

Sure beats turning the Heater on full blast when it is already 90+ outside.

You'll have to give an update of how it works a few months down the road.


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Old 08-09-09, 08:12 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I thought about it but, I didn't measure any temps. The floor / transmission tunnel seems to get the hottest when i am tooling around on the trails. so i reckon any hot air i could get out of the engine bay would be a plus and I could tell hot air was coming out of the one vent when it was idleing, so I went ahead and installed the second vent. If the vents don't make enough of a difference then a 1" body might go on. I just feel like i need to remove some heat. example the rubber insulation on my throttle cable where it crosses the front of the engine has been cooked to the point that most of it has dried out and flaked away.


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94' de-flared FJ80 on OME heavies with slee blue's on some 33's, Aussie locked rear, ARB front loaded with a re12000 & Kaymar rear, home made sliders, budbuilt drag links and 250K+ on the clock. cdl switch w/7-pin.
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Old 08-09-09, 07:04 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Nice job, looks like a clean install.


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Old 08-11-09, 08:30 AM   #12 (permalink)
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looks great Eric. Did you do any yarn test or the like to see where the airflow/vaccum was greatest?

They look a little further foward than most that ive seen but i like those vents better than most How much of the hood bracing was trimmed along the side edges ? the point doesnt look like much but without looking at my hood it seems like a lot of the sides are trimmed.


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Old 08-11-09, 09:36 AM   #13 (permalink)
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no yarn test. haven't even drove it since i installed the 2nd vent (been 2 busy). I positioned them a little farther forward then i would have liked to see them in order to preserve the hoods superstructure, therefore very little of the bracing was removed. I am still haven't decided if i should replace the insulation that was under the hood. The had been cooked from the heat and dried with age that it basically fell apart when i touched it.


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94' de-flared FJ80 on OME heavies with slee blue's on some 33's, Aussie locked rear, ARB front loaded with a re12000 & Kaymar rear, home made sliders, budbuilt drag links and 250K+ on the clock. cdl switch w/7-pin.
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Old 08-11-09, 03:16 PM   #14 (permalink)
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there are some good spray on products for heat and vibration absorption. Second skin is a mud vendor as well. May look into a group buy opportunity for the club as well.


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95 80 -- Slee4''/omeJ, 37's, factory locked, full armor and a s/c too
72 55-- w/ 76 4sdp 78 f. disc 79 2F -- SOA + 3'' w/ 35's, IPOR protection
92 P/U -- no "D" light, no umph, no fun except at the pump
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Old 08-11-09, 04:28 PM   #15 (permalink)
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that might be an option. I'll put that one on the list of things to do.


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94' de-flared FJ80 on OME heavies with slee blue's on some 33's, Aussie locked rear, ARB front loaded with a re12000 & Kaymar rear, home made sliders, budbuilt drag links and 250K+ on the clock. cdl switch w/7-pin.
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