Cruiser Additions and PM to keep me busy

S4Cruiser · 04-08-09, 08:06 PM

Since I'm still not working yet, I've dedicated some time this week to start on a few cruiser projects that were on my to-do list.

First for the 80 -
I had some bumper 'fitment issues' so I drove up to IPOR to have them sorted out. They fixed things up and threw in a skid plate for my troubles

. Here are a few crappy cell phone shots while at their shop.

Some of you might know that I recently purchased a 40 (some have probably seen it before

under the care of the PO), but I've never posted any pics up here. So...here are a few.

Trucks in great shape but there's always something to fix. I've been working on the carb to get it running right and also tracking down an exhaust leak.

Pulled the carb this afternoon to send off to JimC for a rebuild and found this -

Looks like the fuel was draining into the intake manifold for some reason...no worries a JimC rebuild should be the fix.

For the exhaust leak, I was surprised that there wasn't one b/w the block and headers. It ended up being where the header mounts to the exhaust -

This is a good thing and a new gasket should solve it. I ordered a Remflex one for the block so I'll probably order the Remflex piece for this too.

While I have the headers off, does anyone know what options are out there to get this header cleaned up (it's freaking nasty)? Blasted and painted, chemical dipped and ceramic coated, etc. I'm open to ideas and have some time while the carb is being rebuilt.

-Jon

diggity · 04-08-09, 08:13 PM

SWEEEEEEEEETTTTTT. Very nice. Love the 40

mtweller · 04-08-09, 09:01 PM

My $.02 on the header is to scrap them. I have dealt w/ exhaust leaks for quite some time due to a header. The 6-1 flange is too long and will warp with time. I've had mine machined flat a few years back and it is leaking again - and I drive it VERY little. I took Marshall's (Trollhole) advice and sourced a pair of FJ62 manifolds. They can be see here on the Big Gay 2F writeup:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series...d-tech-10.html

Look at post 287. You'll have to get a bit of exhaust work done to tie the two manis into the main exhaust flange, and you'll have to grind the intake manifold for clearance (nothing too challenging), and you'll need to cut the bolthead recesses to match the thickness of the intake flange (I have a method that works and doesn't take too long):

http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series...0-headers.html

I just did this this weekend and while it proved to be a bit challenging due to broken studs, I shouldn't have to worry about exhaust leaks again for a LONG time.

Let me know if you want any additional info.

R

jfz80 · 04-09-09, 07:46 AM

sweet accord man!!!!!!!!!!!!!! that steph sure is a lucky girl

glad the crew took care of you up in Fredricksburg.

S4Cruiser · 04-09-09, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jfz80

sweet accord man!!!!!!!!!!!!!! that steph sure is a lucky girl

Close...I convinced her to get a camry and you're damn right she's lucky

.

Cruiser Man · 04-09-09, 01:17 PM

Go jet hot on the header if you are keeping it.

southerncruiser62 · 04-09-09, 03:22 PM

Jon, did you color match the rear bumper on the 80?

jfz80 · 04-09-09, 03:41 PM

and i knew that

think that pic is raw steel on the bumper on one of the test fits of a "new" batch of bumpers

S4Cruiser · 04-09-09, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by southerncruiser62

Jon, did you color match the rear bumper on the 80?

No, like Jason said, that was one of the raw steel bumpers from their newest batch.

But...I really liked the raw steel and how it looked against the sage body. Wonder how feasible ($ wise) it would be to get the sliders and front/rear bumpers blasted and then some type of clear coating on them for rust protection??

little_joe · 04-10-09, 04:53 AM

Jon, it's great to hear they took care of you, sux you had to go up there though.

Your 40 is just incredible. And even moreso w/ the working PTO.

strong_toy · 04-10-09, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by S4Cruiser

No, like Jason said, that was one of the raw steel bumpers from their newest batch.

But...I really liked the raw steel and how it looked against the sage body. Wonder how feasible ($ wise) it would be to get the sliders and front/rear bumpers blasted and then some type of clear coating on them for rust protection??

I would simply check on getting some sage paint and spray the bumpers and sliders to match the truck. I did that on my last truck and was very pleased. I had them stripped and then a pro shot them. The only trick is the sliders, but you could paint the slider portion black for touch up and only color match the wings.

S4Cruiser · 04-11-09, 11:48 AM

Well upon further inspection, the header is

. It was leaking where each tube combined at the collector. You can see holes when looking into the header from the collector end..so if anyone wants a 6-1 header for like 10 bucs, come get it.

Now I need to decide if I'm gonna get new headers or go back to stock.

Glad I didn't drop them off at HPC for a Jet-Hot coating that would've been money wasted

.

southerncruiser62 · 04-11-09, 03:41 PM

Like Raymond has mentioned and after hearing his truck with the new exhaust work I would say go with the factory manifolds and clearance them.

S4Cruiser · 04-11-09, 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by southerncruiser62

Like Raymond has mentioned and after hearing his truck with the new exhaust work I would say go with the factory manifolds and clearance them.

The more and more I research, this seems to be the most rational/best route especially since I have to worry about the PTO driveshaft interferance/clearence with any aftermarket header.

Ramon (or anyone else) - got any leads on some 62 series exhaust manifolds??

southerncruiser62 · 04-11-09, 07:25 PM

Check Ebay, I know thats where he got his, you can also check the parting out section.

mtweller · 04-11-09, 07:29 PM

eBay. $50 shipped for me

S4Cruiser · 04-11-09, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by southerncruiser62

Check Ebay, I know thats were he got his, you can also check the parting out section.

Just PM'd a guy parting out a 62 series in WV...

Ramon, I'll be leaning on ya for the fitment specifics when I find a set

. I've read both those threads you linked before and it seems fairly straight forward.

What exhaust gasket did you go with? I ask b/c I just got a Remflex 2F gasket in the mail and am hoping it will work??

S4Cruiser · 04-12-09, 08:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by S4Cruiser

Just PM'd a guy parting out a 62 series in WV...

Found a set...now just to see how quick the guy gets them to me

.

mtweller · 04-12-09, 09:09 PM

Remflex 2F gasket. Pretty easy, just a few fitment mods. Give me a call once you have them in hand and I'll talk you through it.

R

S4Cruiser · 04-13-09, 09:00 AM

Installed an IPOR skid plate yesterday with a little help from my father in-law. This skid is pretty heavy and having two people makes it fairly simple and a lot safer. Took us about an hour and half from start to finish. Still need to trim the transmission support bolts or they'll most likely get mangled.

southerncruiser62 · 04-13-09, 09:34 AM

Looks familiar! It will also take a beating.

fj40z · 04-13-09, 06:39 PM

I gots to get me one of those

southerncruiser62 · 04-13-09, 06:51 PM

I hear the Rubicon's come stock with them....

Alright that's enough, that was the last joke stephen...now i just hope you don't end up getting one.

fj40z · 04-13-09, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by southerncruiser62

I hear the Rubicon's come stock with them....

Alright that's enough, that was the last joke stephen...now i just hope you don't end up getting one.

Dang, youre on a roll this evening, I read some where there were thousands of comedians out of work and starving and we get stuck with Greg.

S4Cruiser · 05-22-09, 08:08 AM

I couldn't resist the Bilstein buy 3 get one free deal they had going on in April. Just got these yesterday (they were backordered).

BIL F4-BE5-6253-H5 for the front and BIL F4-BE5-6248-H5 for the rear. I haven't put them on yet...I'm considering replacing the bushing in the leafs and shackles.

What's the consensus on whether I should replace the bushings? The springs are ~10 years old but only have 40k miles on them.

-Jon

GarnerFJ40 · 05-22-09, 11:02 AM

Are they Poly? I wouldn't see any reason to replace them unless they were deformed or brittle... That stuff is pretty durable...

southerncruiser62 · 05-22-09, 11:04 AM

You're right it took all we had to get yours out on the green 40.

S4Cruiser · 05-22-09, 11:38 AM

I'm not sure if they're poly or not. They are red and looked cracked/cracking in a few places. Most likely whatever came with a skyjacker lift and conferr shackles 10 years ago...

Were your's really that hard to remove/replace?

GarnerFJ40 · 05-22-09, 01:51 PM

Yeah, once the material dries out, it glues itself to the interior of the perch. But, I also had a decent amount of rust in there too. We had to dremel out the hole a little to get the new ones in...

If they're cracked, then I'd change them, and give em some grease in and out... I wanted to get some of the Aussie bushings with the grease grooves, but the time frame didn't allow... I'll do those on the other one..

S4Cruiser · 05-22-09, 03:10 PM

This is probably a stupid question but the leaf sprung 40 suspension is new to me compared to the 80...are all the bushings one size fits all or do I need to get skyjacker specific ones??

Which ones did you go with Brian?