[valentine]

So I did the timing advancer R&R today. Everything looked to be in good shape, other than having no grease at all. I took it apart and it was completely dry.

When I got all done, I checked the timing and it was dead on.

I'll load up the pictures as soon as they're done loading up on photobucket.


Writeup moved here:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/motorcycles-...r-writeup.html

[valentine]

I greased it up, put it back together. It was super simple.

Time for a beer.

[valentine]

Nest on the list is to check out the brakes and wheel bearings. It rolls smooth and breaks good, but I haven't been in there yet, and I don't want any surprises.

[yooper]

Nice writeup val! I would never have attempted a clutch rebuild but seeing your writeup gives me confidence.

Your advancer looks pretty good. Mine has a little rust on it, which is weird since the cam oil seal is leaking a bit.

You spelled original wrong.

[valentine]

Originally Posted by yooper

Nice writeup val! I would never have attempted a clutch rebuild but seeing your writeup gives me confidence.

I was pretty nervous going in too, but it is pretty straightforward once you get started. If you ever do the job let me know, I have the special socket....

Originally Posted by yooper

Your advancer looks pretty good. Mine has a little rust on it, which is weird since the cam oil seal is leaking a bit.

I noticed a small amount of oil residue on the bottom of the "points housing". It appeared to have been dried up for a while. I don't know why it would have leaked a little bit then stopped? Maybe someone overfilled it with oil some time back.

Originally Posted by yooper

You spelled original wrong.

Fixed. I totally missed the red underline. I usually watch for that.

[cruisermedic]

that spot welder tool for dents is the shit. seen it on some of the extreme 4x4 and trucks shows on speed lately. works awesome but not sure how much they are might not be worth it for just this tank though, course you could always use it on a cruiser. wonder if you could just jact on some steel thin nails and use them to pull out, grind off and paint.

[Jman]

Great writeup! Great pics! What grease did you use?

I am having a problem finding a go-to place for bolts and screws. All the local stores seem to suck. There is a Home Despot near me, but I hate going there.

Originally Posted by valentine

Nest on the list is to check out the brakes and wheel bearings. It rolls smooth and breaks good, but I haven't been in there yet, and I don't want any surprises.

The beer must have kicked in. You're slurring.

[Jman]

I suck at reading the logic of wiring diagrams.

Question: If the front stop switch wires are disconnected at the switch, would that stop the tail light from working?

[thorvald]

Originally Posted by Jman

I suck at reading the logic of wiring diagrams.

Question: If the front stop switch wires are disconnected at the switch, would that stop the tail light from working?

I don't think so, but based on my bike not the diagram. My brake light wasn't working when I got my bike but the tail light was. The front switch was not hooked up.

Did you check the grounds? check the bulb?

[Jman]

Originally Posted by thorvald

I don't think so, but based on my bike not the diagram. My brake light wasn't working when I got my bike but the tail light was. The front switch was not hooked up.

Did you check the grounds? check the bulb?

Neither tail nor brake function works on the light. Bulb is new. All other lights are perfectly functional, even all the speedo lights.

I need to trace the harness again as it applies to the tail light, I guess.

EDIT: I see the bulb has its own ground! I bet that's it!

[thorvald]

Originally Posted by Jman

Neither tail nor brake function works on the light. Bulb is new. All other lights are perfectly functional, even all the speedo lights.

I need to trace the harness again as it applies to the tail light, I guess.

EDIT: I see the bulb has its own ground! I bet that's it!

yeh, it should have a ground wire that ends before the harness goes in the frame.
may have wiggled loose.

[valentine]

Originally Posted by Jman

Great writeup! Great pics! What grease did you use?

I am having a problem finding a go-to place for bolts and screws. All the local stores seem to suck. There is a Home Despot near me, but I hate going there.



The beer must have kicked in. You're slurring.

I used Sta-Lube 3301 synthetic brake caliper lube. I figure it's equivalent to what Jon Pardue says to use on his write up.

I go to the local Ace hardware. They have a fantastic bolt/screw selection. Stainless, metric, stainless metric etc...

Firefox is great when you misspell a word, but sucks when you spell a word right but it's in the wrong context.

[valentine]

Originally Posted by Jman

I suck at reading the logic of wiring diagrams.

Question: If the front stop switch wires are disconnected at the switch, would that stop the tail light from working?

My front stop switch wires are disconnected at the switch. My tail light works all the time, and my brake light comes on when I use either the foot lever or left hand lever.

I think you have other problems.

[valentine]

Originally Posted by valentine

My front stop switch wires are disconnected at the switch. My tail light works all the time, and my brake light comes on when I use either the foot lever or left hand lever.

I think you have other problems.

Here's mine.

[yooper]

Originally Posted by Jman

I suck at reading the logic of wiring diagrams.

Question: If the front stop switch wires are disconnected at the switch, would that stop the tail light from working?

No, they are wired in parallel.

See how each switch has its own voltage source and they both come together at the red arrow? If EITHER switch supplies voltage to this point then the brake light should go on.

The only other way to wire it would be in series, which would be dumb because the light would only go on if BOTH switches were on.




Also, not having the switch installed is the same as having it installed but never pulling the lever. When you pull the lever the switch closes, as if you were touching the wires together.

[Jman]

Originally Posted by valentine

Here's mine.

Yup, that's what mine looks like. I've ordered a new switch/wire, and that will go in sometime this week.

Originally Posted by yooper

No, they are wired in parallel.

See how each switch has its own voltage source and they both come together at the red arrow? If EITHER switch supplies voltage to this point then the brake light should go on.

The only other way to wire it would be in series, which would be dumb because the light would only go on if BOTH switches were on.

Attachment 268717


Also, not having the switch installed is the same as having it installed but never pulling the lever. When you pull the lever the switch closes, as if you were touching the wires together.

I realized that when I was doing the work to get the tail light working--that they have to be able to work independently. I need to do some more work with the multimeter, but I think neither are being supplied with current. So, I need to trace the harness from the battery to the switches. That narrows it down quite a bit.

It's raining this weekend. Maybe I can bring it into the kitchen again, since I can do this work without starting it up.

[rrdogma]

Here is Orangina:

1977 Honda CT90 with 1456 on the odometer when I picked her up on Saturday.

[rrdogma]

So far I have replaced the spark plug and the turn signal bulbs. I also removed this from the battery compartment.

[rrdogma]

I will be replacing the headlight bucket,battery box cover, and taillight cover as soon as the parts arrive. I've also ordered mirrors.

The bike just had valve and carburetor work done at a shop. Not sure what that means exactly but she runs pretty well. I would like to adjust the idle a bit. Aside from some cleaning and some surface rust removal, my next project will be the front forks. There is some black gunk that seeped from the bottom so I figure it will be a good time to change the fork oil. Opinions on the Beatrice fork oil v.s the ATF?




Kelly

[thorvald]

Originally Posted by rrdogma

Here is Orangina:

1977 Honda CT90 with 1456 on the odometer when I picked her up on Saturday.

Nice bike Kelly

[yooper]

There is a file in the CT90 Yahoo files section that details how to convert to LED turn signals. You need a Bauer electronic blinker and some diodes and probably know how to use a multimeter. It specifies model numbers for everything though. I will do this eventually.

ct90 : Info and talk about Honda CT-90/110s

Go to Files
Go to 1-2-3's of the Electric Systems - Jon Pardue
Go to Blinkers and Turn Signals
Open the File "CT LED Blinkers.pdf"
The password is BOB in capital letters.

[yooper]

Also I just read on the Yahoo list that some people have replaced their Honda coil with a Bosch blue coil from a 6V Volkswagen and get much much better spark.

[Degnol]

I just got a new headlight switch (OEM Honda) for my '74 K5. It is the "Hi-Lo" switch. I think the old switch was just "On-Off", but it is hard to tell. Anyway, the new switch seems to have three positions, so maybe "Off" in addition to Hi-low? The switch has three wires so maybe power in, low out and high out? That would not preclude off.
Any advice?

Ed

[yooper]

Originally Posted by Degnol

I just got a new headlight switch (OEM Honda) for my '74 K5. It is the "Hi-Lo" switch. I think the old switch was just "On-Off", but it is hard to tell. Anyway, the new switch seems to have three positions, so maybe "Off" in addition to Hi-low? The switch has three wires so maybe power in, low out and high out? That would not preclude off.
Any advice?

Ed

do you have a wiring diagram for your year? It will tell you which color wire is which...

http://dratv.com/wiringdiagrams.html

I bet the old switch was Hi-Lo, with no off...

[yooper]

Specs pdf, chock full of goodness, from one of the Yahoo list guys:

http://ct90-ct110.com/PDFs/CT_Common...-_Nov_2008.pdf

[Straightjacket]

I've pulled dents out of pipes by sealing off the openings,slightly pressurizing,and gradualy heating the dent.They just expand back out. You would obviously have to be very thurough with your cleaning or you would be creating a bomb It also requires a paint job.

[Hugh Heifer]

Finally! I'm in! Acquisition of a '70 CT90 imminent!

[yooper]

I found some more manuals, mostly late model stuff.

Index of /CT/Stuf/Manuals

[Jman]

Just an update on what I've done somewhat recently.

• Got ALL the lights to work properly.

• Replaced brake cable.

• Replaced speedo cable.

• Replaced throttle cable and cleaned out throttle slide inside the handgrip.

This last one involved some interesting discoveries: There was some sort of dinosaur shit inside the handgrip (I think it was just dried up grease and such, or maybe organic matter). The anchoring of the cable housing on the handgrip end is, um, interesting? And, finally, not anchoring the cable housing properly results in acceleration of the bike whenever you try to make a turn.

[semlin]

Originally Posted by semlin

ct70 resto thread with paint codes for engine refinishing

"Tahitian Treat"......the 1980 CT-70

some more paint links

general paint code info for old hondas

ModelChart

Honda Africa Twin Colour Schemes

http://www.cmsnl.com/classic-honda-f...1969-73-74.pdf

Honda Paint Codes

Honda - FAQ


apparently the silver trim and wheel colour for the early small bikes 90cc or less is cloud silver.

there is a code cloud silver metallic code 08707-nh35m, and it seems to be still used for honda outboards and available, but the parts charts do not list cloud silver as a metallic paint.

Honda TUP CLOUD SILVER 08707-NH35M Price: $15.57

there is also "dark grey metallic" code CB or NH19M. this seems to be sometime after 1969 and definitely by 1974

also for a near miss to cloud silver you can use eastwood argent silver wheel paint or duplicolor wheel paint wp101 or wp316

for the body on ct200s and ct90s
you have

scarlet (ct200 to ct90k3) code "c" or "r-2" or maybe "R-2 C"
bright yellow (ct200 to ct90 k2) code XB or CJ or "R-2 CJ"
summer yellow (or smokey yellow) (ct90 k3) code "cc"
mars orange (ct90 k4 and k5) code YR-6
tahitian red (Ct90 k6+)code yr-23 EC

for black stuff like kickstands there are many many honda blacks

black is NH1 with a number of iterations
gloss black