[Jman]

Originally Posted by thorvald

Looks nice, much nicer than the two z50 projects I have.
As far as dents go, both of mine are dented somewhat, the less dented one has a lot of rust inside. I was keeping an eye out on ebay for a better tank, but it seems like decent ones go for quite a bit.

Are the dents from the handlebars? If so, might want to make sure the stop is working good before fixing it.

Now lets see a pic of you riding it

I'll find one of me on my China monkey clone if you do.

So far, I have nothing but praise for the POR-15 motorcycle tank rust abatement kit.

CYCLE TANK REPAIR KIT-POR-15 Inc.

A trick I did when drying it before application of the final sealer, I put the tank in my oven at 250 F for half an hour. Much better than sitting there holding a heat gun on the filler hole for an hour.

Originally Posted by 45Kevin

The guys I know that fix tanks all have special dollys they made out of ball bearings (some rather large) welded to bent rod that they insert through the gas filler hole and use with a hammer.

I also know some guys that just cut out the dented area and straighten it on a bench and then weld the piece back in.

Good thread Semilin. I have a '70 CT90, a '65 CA77 and a '74 MT250. I also have several other brand of similar vintage.

A tire iron standing up in a cinder block with a piece of rubber duct-taped over the end--if you could fit that into the filler hole, and used a rubber mallet. . . . .

[Jman]

Some good Honda bike maintenance pics.

Barney's Journal

[Fast Eddy]

Here's my $0.02:

To clean some rust out of the tank of my ATC 200x we cleaned some pea gravel, put it in the tank with some water and shook it around until we were too tired to do it anymore. The water that came out was way more rusty than I would have thought and the inside of the tank is good, but not perfect. It wasn't close to rust-through, so I'm not planning to seal it. I got this idea from a gearhead who suggested a bottle of BBs and a paint shaker, but I doubt Home Depot offers this service.

Here's a spot to download Honda, Kawi and Yamahopper 3-wheeler manuals. The carb howto's in bold are relevant to any small motorcycle engine. The wire color codes and part number stuff may be helpful as well.

Download 3-wheeler Manuals

#
# atc200x_83-85_servicemanual.pdf
# atc250r_81-84_servicemanual.pdf
# atc250r_85-86_servicemanual.pdf
# atc250sx_85-87_servicemanual.pdf
# atc350x_85-86_servicemanual.pdf
# atc70-125_1985_and_earlier_servicemanual.pdf
# atc90_73-78_atc110_79-81_servicemanual.pdf
# tri-z_250_servicemanual.pdf
# tri-zinger_yt60_servicemanual.pdf
# ytm200&225-fm200_clymer_manual.pdf
# ytm200_yamaha_servicemanual.pdf
#
Manuals/ATC manuals directory:
# 4sjetting.pdf
# 81-84atc250rservicemanual.pdf
# 83-85ATC 200xservicemanual.pdf
# 85n86atc250rservicemanual.pdf
# 85n86atc350xpartsfiche.pdf
# 85n86atc350xspecs.pdf
# 86-87atc200xservicemanual.pdf
# ATC 200M 84-85 Shop Manual.pdf
# ATC 250SX Service Manual 85-87.pdf
# ATC-70-125.pdf
# ATC200S 84-86 Shop Manual.pdf
# ATC90_Shop_Manual_73-78_ATC110_79-81.pdf
# BALANCING CARBURATORS.html
# C[1]. ATC250ES Set -up Instructions 1987.pdf
# C[1]. Carb repair helpfull hints.pdf
# D[1]. Honda Big Red Service News CD.pdf
# H[1]. honda Help notes.pdf
# History of ATC.pdf
# Honda 200E Big Red 1982-83 CD.pdf
# Honda 200ES Big Red 1984 CD.pdf
# Honda Wheels.pdf
# I[1]. Honda Wirecolor codes.pdf
# K[1]. Understanding honda part codes.pdf
# YamTri-ZServiceManual.pdf
# YamYTM200ServiceManual.pdf
# atc250es-85-87servicemanual.pdf
# atc_350x_service_manual.pdf
# bleeding.pdf
# carbover.htm
# fault_find.pdf
# hondawirecolorcodes.pdf
# product-codes.pdf
# yt60-zinger.pdf

[semlin]

ct90 valve adjustment and clutch replacement write ups

| Adjusting Valves

http://www.ct90.net/ct90.nsf/84c3aac...5!OpenDocument

[semlin]

source for ct90/ct200 parts including taillight lens and individual plastic switches

North City Vintage Honda Home Page

[valentine]

Hey, this is my first post to this thread, be easy on me.

I was looking around for some clutch info and stumbled on this website.

Honda CT Trail Bikes

I didn't see it listed in any of the above links.

Here's the clutch info, the best I've seen yet.

CT70 and Z50 AutoClutch

And the carb.

CT70CT90Carburetor

They have quite a bit of stuff, even some cool factory stickers...

Enjoy.

[thorvald]

this thread needs more pictures

[semlin]

source for oem honda replacement keys using code numbers on the lock. there are also ebay stores selling these, and some locksmiths have the information to make a new key for you from the code if they have the right blank to fit.

Honda Keys.com Your source for NOS Honda Keys

[gladly]

Originally Posted by semlin

depending on the dent, i wonder if you could seal it up tight and use compressed air to pop it out? other than that, maybe those suction cup dent pullers?

Originally Posted by thorvald

Looks nice, much nicer than the two z50 projects I have.
As far as dents go, both of mine are dented somewhat, the less dented one has a lot of rust inside. I was keeping an eye out on ebay for a better tank, but it seems like decent ones go for quite a bit.

Are the dents from the handlebars? If so, might want to make sure the stop is working good before fixing it.

Now lets see a pic of you riding it

I'll find one of me on my China monkey clone if you do.

Originally Posted by 45Kevin

The guys I know that fix tanks all have special dollys they made out of ball bearings (some rather large) welded to bent rod that they insert through the gas filler hole and use with a hammer.

I also know some guys that just cut out the dented area and straighten it on a bench and then weld the piece back in.

Good thread Semilin. I have a '70 CT90, a '65 CA77 and a '74 MT250. I also have several other brand of similar vintage.

easiest, least intrusive way would be to get one of these

This nifty tool can make short work of pulling a dent out of your steel body panels (not aluminum). Sand the paint off down to bare metal. Put a copper plated nail (the stud) into the collet, place firmly against the panel for good electrical contact, pull the trigger for half a second, and it spot welds the stud to the sheet metal. Attach multiple studs as required. The small slide hammer has a collet to grip the studs so you can pull the metal up to the desired lever. Then use an angle grinder to grind off the studs flush with the surface, just a few seconds per stud. This leaves the panel clean and smooth with no trace of the weld zone, ready for prep and finishing.

description and picture pilfered from http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/members/tool_lend.html
pretty commonly available from tool rental places

[valentine]

Just replaced the condenser.

Here is a good explanation of how to do it.

Here's my coil hanging out of the "battery hole" Once you get it to this point, it's you just unplug 2 wires, take off the mounting bolt, plug the wires back in, bolt the coil back onto the coil & re-mount coil, gas tank, exhaust.

It was super simple to do, other than having to take the exhaust off to get the seat off.

I already had the gas tank drained since I rebuilt the carb yesterday.

The blue/red and red/white wires you see dangling there are the + battery wires.

[valentine]

I wanted to install new clutch friction discs in today too, so I took the clutch side cover off and heard a metallic "clink" of something falling.

I carefully took the side cover off and found the "ball keeper" cage bent.

[valentine]

Luckily, with the purchase of the CT, I got a spare engine in pieces and a box of misc stuff that had another ball keeper assembly.

[valentine]

This is the upper end of the original engine. IIRC, he had a piston ring break and cause the scoring. He bought a complete engine and transplanted the upper end from it onto the original.

[valentine]

Originally Posted by valentine

I wanted to install new clutch friction discs in today too, so I took the clutch side cover off and heard a metallic "clink" of something falling.

Needless to say, I won't be finishing the clutch today. I need to figure out what else came un-attached and fell when taking off the engine side cover.

I have the good ball keeper soaking in cleaner since it's been sitting in that box for years. There's no rust, but it's just gummed up from the dried up oil & dust.

[valentine]

Oh, did the points today too.

Super easy.

[valentine]

I posted this in TUT, but figure I'd post it here as well.

Before I rebuilt the carb, I had to drain the fuel tank. I drained the "main" fuel line first into a gas can. I wanted to see how much the reserve was, so when I pulled that line from the carb, I drained it into a clear 32 oz gatorade container.

Here's the quantity of gas you have left when you run out of the main gas and have to switch to reserve.

And I rinsed the gatorade out before I drained the gas into the container... that's the color of the old gas that was in there....

[semlin]

ct70 resto thread with paint codes for engine refinishing

"Tahitian Treat"......the 1980 CT-70

[valentine]

Hey Yoop, you need to add this to your smiley page.

[valentine]

Originally Posted by valentine

Hey Yoop, you need to add this to your smiley page.

Got it from a link off the page Semlin linked.

[yooper]

Originally Posted by valentine

Hey Yoop, you need to add this to your smiley page.

done

http://www.rooney.org/tlc/smileys/sparkplug.gif

[valentine]

Here's some more pictures of the ball keeper that was bent along with the other one I dug up in my misc parts. The spare one has a different cage, but I think it will work fine. The center section is the same I.D. and the half moon is the same also.

This part is #10 in this pic and only $5.00 from Beatrice Cycle.









Here's a shot with them stacked directly on top of another.






Clutch writeup moved here:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/motorcycles-...h-writeup.html

[valentine]

Another good blown up pic of a CT clutch.

[valentine]

Ordered A,B,C,&D OEM clutch plates from Dr. ATV today. He was less expensive than buying from the Honda dealership for the same parts.



Hopefully they'll be in by the end of the week so I can have it running by the weekend.

[valentine]

Originally Posted by valentine

Ordered A,B,C,&D OEM clutch plates from Dr. ATV today. He was less expensive than buying from the Honda dealership for the same parts.



Hopefully they'll be in by the end of the week so I can have it running by the weekend.

So I ordered the parts on Tuesday the 7th and the parts were in my mailbox today, Thursday the 9th. How's that for speedy delivery.

[valentine]

Here is the location of the oil filter/screen



Mine was clean, but I sprayed it off with carb cleaner anyways and put it back

Install gasket (note that the oil screen is behind the gasket)

[dieseldog]

Valentine is kickin' some serious ass there! Well done!

[dieseldog]

Just today, I purchased another small sparkplug--a 1984 CT110. This will join the 1970 CT90K2, the 1979 CT90, and a 1971 CT90K3 parts bike. From all reports and the pics on eBay, this bike is super cherry.

[thorvald]

Originally Posted by valentine

The manual said the clutch lever was supposed to point from the center of the shaft strait to the center of the clutch You can see that I also have the ball holder installed.


I didn't take a picture of pcs. 7, 11, and 12, but you can see here how it goes together. Pieces 11 and 12 fit in the center of #6



Finally all buttoned back up. Minus the kick starter.

you should have painted your cover while you had it off

otherwise nice work

[valentine]

Originally Posted by thorvald

you should have painted your cover while you had it off

otherwise nice work

If I paint it all up & get it all purty, I won't want to ride it for fear of messing up the paint job.

It's perfect just the way it is.

[valentine]

Originally Posted by dieseldog

Just today, I purchased another small sparkplug--a 1984 CT110. This will join the 1970 CT90K2, the 1979 CT90, and a 1971 CT90K3 parts bike. From all reports and the pics on eBay, this bike is super cherry.

I'll be sure to take lots of pics on Tuesday when I'm in Olympia picking it up....and when I get home.