landcrshr

This is what I did with my suspension bushings. Buying from partsouq, I saved enough money that I could buy the WE press tools. Which seems kind of ironic in a way.

Very true. I would use Wits End to get the PN and then use my local Toyota connection.

Measuring voltage between the cable terminal and post is incorrect because this will result in showing you full battery voltage. Instead, an ammeter needs to be inserted to measure current flowing. You must be careful that nothing is turned on...

Same, but I call this “The Three Ninety Sevens.”

He looks like one of those "Tacoma World" dudes. :rofl::rofl::rofl:

Haha, I drove it into a rock. I was creeping down the trail looking at a map instead of the trail. Goodthing I was only going turtle speed 🤣 I still had to use the front locker to back up. Other than that I used it to get where I wanted to...

That’s where I’ll be starting Friday maybe. :cool:

Another Death Valley adventure in the books. Mengal Pass. Baker Ranch. Lake Manly. Traveller monument/Soda Lake closed. Kelso Dunes. The trails were damp, and not super dusty which was great. Lots of desert bloom. Rig ran great. Clicked...

I guess I should have done the math before posting. Thanks.

Battery voltage is irrelevant, all that matters is the voltage drop across the fuse. But yes, the resistance of each fuse would have to be known. Doing the math on some of those figures in the chart, it would suggest the resistances would be in...

I will! Electronics are one step away from black magic... eye of newt and salamander tail so far as I am concerned. :doh: But it never hurts to try and understand it better. :) Mark...

https://george4wd.taskled.com/ignition_bulb.html Ignition ring... cheers, george.

That helps a lot. I appreciate it!

There's a timer module associated with the ignition switch light that commonly fails. It doesn't shut off completely, allowing a small current to trickle through the bulb. IIRC, the module is a little green cube that lives in the passenger kick...

I would bet that's startup current. Almost definitely much lower once it's running.

Here's how the harness is routed on my 94' (top half of intake removed for clarity). I Imagine your 97 should be very similar.

A while back I had wired up a 12v plug to the rear of the 80 so I could plug the fridge in. After a while of driving around with the fridge plugged in, the cigarette style plug would come loose and the fridge would lose power. I cut the cig...

It’s never be a issue, but I have a big ass battery

Good idea, but I believe the opto-isolators in those require a constant 12V in addition to the trigger inputs, so maybe not? Here's something else Amazon suggested. Might even be potted...

I wonder if a module like the following might work to simplify installation for someone who isn't into messing with electronics? https://a.co/d/3x4moqv

No personal experience, but those sorts modules don't really have a great rep for reliability, especially for an automotive environment - dirty, temp extremes, vibrations, etc...

I was actually suggesting creating your own module using relays of your choice. Good to know though.

😲 At 16 - 20A you may not want that running without the engine running.

The CIG fuse circuit would be a good source for the control relays. The fan relay switches power directly from the battery.

Says 16A online but someone else mention 20A Thank you for spending the time, will have to study this and find a good 12V ignition wire to tap into!