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Old 12-19-07, 05:48 AM   #211 (permalink)
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Well they don't have any rear bumpers yet, so I will still be getting one. The ARB bumper is being drop shipped from ARB directly. The rear bumper will come from Metaltech, so that is when we could save on the shipping.

* the rear bumper is made by metaltech*


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Old 12-29-07, 09:01 AM   #212 (permalink)
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Had a message yesterday, the bumper is at Fedex in lafayette. I'm still offshore but should be back by New year's day, and I can pick it up Jan 2nd. As much as I'd like to install it myself, i have only been home for 2 days in the last month, so I think I'm going to get B&M to do it. I talked to them, and they can do it in a morning, whereas I'd probably spend 12 hrs on it. I'll post up when it's on.


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Old 12-29-07, 12:10 PM   #213 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by moomtazz View Post
Had a message yesterday, the bumper is at Fedex in lafayette. I'm still offshore but should be back by New year's day, and I can pick it up Jan 2nd. As much as I'd like to install it myself, i have only been home for 2 days in the last month, so I think I'm going to get B&M to do it. I talked to them, and they can do it in a morning, whereas I'd probably spend 12 hrs on it. I'll post up when it's on.
Good deal.. I'll be back on Sunday the 30th from Florida. If you can go get it fine.. if not, let me know and I'll see what I can do for you.

Let me know if you need some help getting to FedEx Freight... it's right by Paul Keggley's house and the power plant.



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Old 12-29-07, 12:24 PM   #214 (permalink)
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Thanks

Is it a different place than the Fedex in the area between pinhook and hwy 90? I forget the road.


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Old 12-29-07, 12:41 PM   #215 (permalink)
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Thanks

Is it a different place than the Fedex in the area between pinhook and hwy 90? I forget the road.
Depends where it went. Most large items would go to the Freight location on Walker Road. It's easy to find. You just need to call and see where your package is.

Lafayette - FedEx Freight

Good luck bud

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Old 12-29-07, 03:04 PM   #216 (permalink)
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Ok, it is at walker road. Just checked it on mapquest and that's a different location than the place I thought. Closer to the house actually. Thanks!


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Old 02-06-08, 10:59 AM   #217 (permalink)
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Election Time

Not really 'Tech' but useful. Those big plastic campaign signs are nice to have around while wrenching.



The ones I got are corrugated so it adds a little insulation from the cold/hot ground and they are pretty heavy duty



I have another one cut out for the back of the Subaru, for when I'm hauling dirty, oily parts around.


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Old 02-06-08, 12:15 PM   #218 (permalink)
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Not really 'Tech' but useful. Those big plastic campaign signs are nice to have around while wrenching.



The ones I got are corrugated so it adds a little insulation from the cold/hot ground and they are pretty heavy duty



I have another one cut out for the back of the Subaru, for when I'm hauling dirty, oily parts around.
I bet they'd make some handy drip pads if you glued or stapled some cloth over top.


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Old 02-12-08, 10:08 AM   #219 (permalink)
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Scott, I found those rod ends! Too late now, rig already has new ones. At least I wasn't imagining things.
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Old 02-12-08, 01:47 PM   #220 (permalink)
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Wow...that's pretty stout...rebuildable too...


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Old 02-12-08, 09:59 PM   #221 (permalink)
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Scott, I found those rod ends! Too late now, rig already has new ones. At least I wasn't imagining things.
Wow... pretty big TRE... lol..

me


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Old 02-12-08, 10:18 PM   #222 (permalink)
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Wow... pretty big TRE... lol..

me
Thanks for posting in tech. I saw the responses you got. LOL.


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Old 02-17-08, 10:03 PM   #223 (permalink)
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Copied this down for Isaac:



Quote:
Originally Posted by Gumby View Post
I generally do a leak down when a low compression number tells me there is a problem. I wouldn't go through the whole shebang unless I knew there was an issue.



You need a leak down testing hose that adapts the spark plug thread to a air hose fitting.



Remove the spark plug.



bring the cylinder up to TDC for that cylinder. Both valves must be closed. You could also de-adjust the valves or pull the rocker shaft.



put the vehicle in 4th gear and block the wheels well. The compressed air will try to push the piston down and turn the crank.



open the throttle and block it open.



Pull the dipstick or remove the fill cap. If you removed the valve cover to loosen the valves, you don't need to remove the fill cap.



Pull the radiator cap



thread a leak down testing hose into the spark plug threads. On my Snap on compression tester, it has air hose fittings on the compression tester hoses, but you do need to remove the schreader valves from the hoses to use as leak down adapters.



Add air.



Check where the air leaks out.



Carb = intake valve



Exhaust pipe = exhaust valve



dipstick or filler cap = rings or hole in the piston.



radiator = blown head gasket or cracked head



The amount of air leaking out is also an indicator of how bad it is. If you just have a slight pressure at the dipstick tube, you probably have little to worry about. If the air coming out the dipstick tube is the same velocity of the air you are putting in, you should say bad words and possibly weep a little.


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Old 02-19-08, 11:53 AM   #224 (permalink)
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Thanks Scott. I am heading down to Grand Isle today in my 4 cylinder Land Cruiser. I am going to put some snake oil in it, for the Ol Hail Mary trick. I will do a leak down test when I get back. I have been looking into aftermarket cams if the motor has to be rebuilt. Anyone like or dislike aftermarket cams?


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Old 02-19-08, 12:07 PM   #225 (permalink)
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Thanks Scott. I am heading down to Grand Isle today in my 4 cylinder Land Cruiser. I am going to put some snake oil in it, for the Ol Hail Mary trick. I will do a leak down test when I get back. I have been looking into aftermarket cams if the motor has to be rebuilt. Anyone like or dislike aftermarket cams?
I had the Rv cam and was well worth the $ spent


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Old 02-19-08, 12:26 PM   #226 (permalink)
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Thanks Scott. I am heading down to Grand Isle today in my 4 cylinder Land Cruiser. I am going to put some snake oil in it, for the Ol Hail Mary trick. I will do a leak down test when I get back. I have been looking into aftermarket cams if the motor has to be rebuilt. Anyone like or dislike aftermarket cams?
At least you're going to Grand Isle...good day to run down there. Wish I was headed that way too.


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Old 03-03-08, 10:14 AM   #227 (permalink)
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i dont know if this is the right place to post this or not, but here goes.

i just bought a 89 pickup and the front right(pass) fender is rotting out under the battery and washer tank, where can i find a replacement inner fender.


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Old 03-03-08, 11:20 AM   #228 (permalink)
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I would think Mike has a part number for you w/ his fancy program Then you could prolly just get it from Musson w/ the discount for the BSLCA. Or cheaper... roam the "parting out" and "parts for sale" sections of mud.

Good luck

Bx


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Old 03-03-08, 11:46 AM   #229 (permalink)
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I would think Mike has a part number for you w/ his fancy program Then you could prolly just get it from Musson w/ the discount for the BSLCA. Or cheaper... roam the "parting out" and "parts for sale" sections of mud.

Good luck

Bx
X2 and post a wanted thread in the classifieds 4-Sale wanted section as well.


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Old 03-03-08, 01:50 PM   #230 (permalink)
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After much thought, consideration, and advice, I decided against a new tub. So after many hours of cleaning, grinding, some fiberglass resin, a few bottles of Chem-Prime, some Industrial Grade Marine Zinc- Clad Cold Galvanizing Compound, a few coats of Kem Kromik Primer and several coats of Plasti-Kote truck bedliner this is what I now have.....
Attachment 213916


Attachment 213917
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Old 03-03-08, 01:57 PM   #231 (permalink)
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ok thanks guys but who is Mike and where do i find him?


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Old 03-03-08, 02:02 PM   #232 (permalink)
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He is a member of the club and he is AKA Tabascoloco here on MUD.


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Old 03-03-08, 02:43 PM   #233 (permalink)
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After much thought, consideration, and advice, I decided against a new tub. So after many hours of cleaning, grinding, some fiberglass resin, a few bottles of Chem-Prime, some Industrial Grade Marine Zinc- Clad Cold Galvanizing Compound, a few coats of Kem Kromik Primer and several coats of Plasti-Kote truck bedliner this is what I now have.....
Attachment 213916


Attachment 213917
Well done bud it looks great. I know who to call when I'm ready to do mine That'll take care of you for sometime.


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Old 03-03-08, 05:28 PM   #234 (permalink)
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That does look great


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Old 03-03-08, 07:34 PM   #235 (permalink)
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little late for POR-15....sorry fellas, but I've been spending most of my time in the NON-USA and DIESEL/JDM forums lately...


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Old 03-03-08, 08:06 PM   #236 (permalink)
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little late for POR-15....sorry fellas, but I've been spending most of my time in the NON-USA and DIESEL/JDM forums lately...
True... but he has enough rust converter on there to convert it from a cruiser to a mercedes (sorta)


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Old 03-05-08, 10:09 AM   #237 (permalink)
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Does my truck have an EGR valve?


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Old 03-05-08, 10:13 AM   #238 (permalink)
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Does my truck have an EGR valve?
Yep, I posted a link somewhere in here, maybe in our chat area to a site that has a host of repair manuals for all models. I downloaded 3 or 4 the other night you can never have enough of that material to reference. You might want to see if they have one for the 60/62 I sure they do. I got the one for the 80, and several for the 40.


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Old 03-05-08, 10:24 AM   #239 (permalink)
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Looked for you no 60/62 but did have a couple on the EGR info if you wanted to read on it.

Master Portal - forums.bauchan.org/Toyota - Technical - Mechanical


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Old 03-05-08, 10:26 AM   #240 (permalink)
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Looked for you no 60/62 but did have a couple on the EGR info if you wanted to read on it.

Master Portal - forums.bauchan.org/Toyota - Technical - Mechanical
Thanks Larry. I can't open it at work though. I'll check it tonight.


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