Tech Questions Here

[Volunteer]

Originally Posted by sparkplug

Thanks for the offer on the wrenching session. The leak is more like a waterfall. All coolant comes out in about 45 seconds. I will order parts and attempt to do this solo. I guess I am going to need paint pens in every color in the color spectrum for my smog and vacuum lines. It is time to get to know my cruiser a little better. I just hope it isn't a cracked block. I have heard the 80's have had this problem. will I need any special tools other than a torque wrench for the manifolds?

PS: I will take you up on your previous offer to fine tune the 40 with
the not so smooth idle problem. Hope to make it over to your side of the state for the next wrenching session and the dealership event. My only problem is I fish for a living, and my boss likes to fish on the weekends, last minute.

I hope its not a cracked block either bud. Its no problem on the vaccume lines only thing important is if it has a vaccume retarded dizzy all the rest you can cap off and it should run fine. I would desmog it too while your at it but I understand that may be more than you want to fool with. You'll gain some added power breathing much better minus all the vaccume garbage. I'll be happy to help you liven up the 40 for the next wrenching session I'll put you down on the list. Not sure when it'll be if we can fit one in next month but if we're not able to get one in and your coming to Laf give a call and I'll make an exception and try to see what we can do for you since you can't always make them. Let us know how things are working out .

[my81fj]

Well after the SCC I noticed that the 40 was running rough. So i changed the fuel filter and found trash in the filter. I drained the tank and found alittle trash in the tank but nothing to bad. I found that I missed capping of a line on the air intake that goes strait to the carb not good that means that all that dust was going right into the carb. I changed the air filter and tha plugs sprayed alot of carb cleaner in the carb and put some STP treatment in the tank and it seems to have fixed the problem. So the short story is make sure you cap all the lines when de smogging your yota.

[PScottBx]

Originally Posted by tabascoloco

I think we'd all benefit even better from a U-bolt flip kit. I'm sure you all know how much those cost. I've given it a lot of consideration, and I think that the old Pirate4x4 DIY solution is the best. I mean, for under $15 a piece plus some plate and bolts, you can have your only using very nice GM parts. I WON'T buy those U-bolt Flip Kits from you know who, only because I think they are outrageously priced. Anyway, if you all are interested in fabricating something, I say we at least look into using the GM axle stuff. It's very nice and proven. Here's a pic or two of the GM parts. BTW, they are $14.14 a piece from GMpartsdepot.com at this very moment....also, the last pic is the "Old School" way of doing it...this link to Pirate is pretty Old: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ght=ubolt+flip

Mike,

Did you ever pursue this any further???




I'm looking for some SOON.

Will the GM versions work for us??? What about u bolts? Make em?? O/W you're praying that they fit the hole pattern obviously.

Thanks for any help

me

[Volunteer]

Originally Posted by PScottBx

Mike,

Did you ever pursue this any further???




I'm looking for some SOON.

Will the GM versions work for us??? What about u bolts? Make em?? O/W you're praying that they fit the hole pattern obviously.

Thanks for any help

me

You'll need different u-bolts with the square end on the bottom of the spring to run those so don't get the ubolts in your kit.

[PScottBx]

http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.p...=bolt+flip+kit

Doesn't look so "easy" w/ the GM plates

me

[Volunteer]

Originally Posted by PScottBx

http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.p...=bolt+flip+kit

Doesn't look so "easy" w/ the GM plates

me

Yep, the MAF kit looks to be more appealing though I haven't looked into it at all.

[PScottBx]

Will have to look at the OME springs... if they are close to the stock ones I have now... the U bolts will have to be 4 foot long.

me

[tabascoloco]

Installed fresh battery cables all around. There are 3 factory wires on the FJ40 and all three came with the kit that I won in the SCC. Incredible quality. All marine-grade. Lots of extras too. Included a factory Toyota Fusible link as well to replace your old one. They also include the ground from the starter to frame as well. I've done alot of upgrades over the years, and frankly, I thought my cables looked great. They are, however the original cables, and, though they look fine on the outside, they are likely corroded internally. In short, I would HIGHLY recommend a visit to Urban Land Cruisers website if you are looking for new cables:http://www.urbanlandcruisers.com/csfs/cables.php
Also, the instructions are very funny and make for a great read as well.

[Volunteer]

Originally Posted by tabascoloco

Installed fresh battery cables all around. There are 3 factory wires on the FJ40 and all three came with the kit that I won in the SCC. Incredible quality. All marine-grade. Lots of extras too. Included a factory Toyota Fusible link as well to replace your old one. They also include the ground from the starter to frame as well. I've done alot of upgrades over the years, and frankly, I thought my cables looked great. They are, however the original cables, and, though they look fine on the outside, they are likely corroded internally. In short, I would HIGHLY recommend a visit to Urban Land Cruisers website if you are looking for new cables:http://www.urbanlandcruisers.com/csfs/cables.php
Also, the instructions are very funny and make for a great read as well.

Very nice cables indeed. Can't wait to check it out.

[cajun65]

Besides the kit, what else is needed to do this project? All I've read indicates that it is a pretty easy job, just takes all weekend and is messy. Sound about right?

Putting that on my list of things to do.

[PScottBx]

Originally Posted by cajun65

Besides the kit, what else is needed to do this project? All I've read indicates that it is a pretty easy job, just takes all weekend and is messy. Sound about right?

Putting that on my list of things to do.

Ok, so first, I think I would be carful taking advice from me... I know vaginas... not knuckles...

However, I've read in the past that I thought it was common tools, (lots o PB Blaster and breaker bar) and a big socket (forgot the size... 50 - something). Otherwise regular tools.

Time wise.... me 6 months... anyone else... ?6 hours...

We'll see what the non-vagina people say

Good luck.
Put it on the wrenching list

Later bud
me

[PScottBx]

Originally Posted by cajun65

Besides the kit, what else is needed to do this project? All I've read indicates that it is a pretty easy job, just takes all weekend and is messy. Sound about right?

Putting that on my list of things to do.

Found these: http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/birf-repack.php

http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.p...nuckle+rebuild

Search Done For Ya



me

[cajun65]

Originally Posted by PScottBx

Put it on the wrenching list

THinking about the home garage option. I had my big wrenching day. Gotta put this second set of rear springs on too.

[PScottBx]

Originally Posted by cajun65

THinking about the home garage option. ...

Does that come w/ a bed as well... one may need it

[cajun65]

Originally Posted by PScottBx

Does that come w/ a bed as well... one may need it

Air mattress and wireless internet to stay in the 60s Tech Forum

[cajun65]

Driving home from Creole yesterday, about 2 miles out, heard a bad griding sound coming from the T-case and my 4WD idiot light came on and I lost all power and was stuck in the road and couldn't move. It would only rev up. I put it in neutral and pushed the 4WD shifter back into 2 and was able to drive a little more up the road to a gravel road. I pulled the boot off, tried to fool with the shifter, etc. Called Landry. I started driving again, but a whining/metal sound came from the case and while I could get up to 50 and 60 MPH on the highway, the sound was definitely there so I covered the hole up with my hunting coat and it muffled the sound some. Then, even with all the speeds I could reach, when I backed off on the accelerator, you could hear the grinding real bad like it wasn't fully engaged or something. Like it wanted to pop out.

I made it home but am not too thrilled about my newest problem. Any ideas? Larry, you suggested changing out the oil. How? Where?

***Edit: Thanks to Larry and Corey for staying near the phone, ready to help, while I drove home.

[BLKDOG40]

Damn, sorry to hear this Let me know if you need me to grab that t-case out of that 80 Fj40 at the junk yard in Port Allen (if the t-case is still there). I was going to raid that thing this weekend cause they had a 50% off sale going on but its been rainy and cold

[cajun65]

Originally Posted by BLKDOG40

Damn, sorry to hear this Let me know if you need me to grab that t-case out of that 80 Fj40 at the junk yard in Port Allen (if the t-case is still there). I was going to raid that thing this weekend cause they had a 50% off sale going on but its been rainy and cold

Thanks Jason, would that work for my rig? What the heck does a T-case do?

[Volunteer]

Originally Posted by BLKDOG40

Damn, sorry to hear this Let me know if you need me to grab that t-case out of that 80 Fj40 at the junk yard in Port Allen (if the t-case is still there). I was going to raid that thing this weekend cause they had a 50% off sale going on but its been rainy and cold

Wow, thats awesome Jason on the 50% off thing. I had the same plans to try and get out there last week. Didn't happen and getting to BR the last week or so has been a major pain in the @ss

Originally Posted by cajun65

Thanks Jason, would that work for my rig? What the heck does a T-case do?

T-Case directs your output from the tranny between 2WD & 4WD it sounds like it got hung up between the two causing some grinding and could have caused some damage. I'm not sure if the 80 model 40 case is the same used in the 62 but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Worth looking into. I would suggest changing the gear oil in the t-case for now to see if you have any major filings come out.

[BLKDOG40]

Originally Posted by Volunteer

Wow, thats awesome Jason on the 50% off thing. I had the same plans to try and get out there last week. Didn't happen and getting to BR the last week or so has been a major pain in the @ss



T-Case directs your output from the tranny between 2WD & 4WD it sounds like it got hung up between the two causing some grinding and could have caused some damage. I'm not sure if the 80 model 40 case is the same used in the 62 but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Worth looking into. I would suggest changing the gear oil in the t-case for now to see if you have any major filings come out.

I don't think the fj40 transfer case in the junk yard will work. I checked my original post and the 40 in the yard is a '79:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php...&postcount=126

SOR lists 8/80-1-90 split case:
http://www.sor.com/sor/cat070.tam?xa...x=cat070%2Etam

Sorry about that Might be something on mud if there are interchangeable parts or some way to get this to work.

[cajun65]

Originally Posted by BLKDOG40

I don't think the fj40 transfer case in the junk yard will work. I checked my original post and the 40 in the yard is a '79:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php...&postcount=126

SOR lists 8/80-1-90 split case:
http://www.sor.com/sor/cat070.tam?xa...x=cat070%2Etam

Sorry about that Might be something on mud if there are interchangeable parts or some way to get this to work.

Okay Jason, thanks. I'm going to the 60s forum to ask around. Gonna try Landry's idea too to see what the oil looks like.

[BikerTrash]

Ok, I mentioned in another thread that I bent my shackles on the Alabama run. well got some new ones fabbed up and now I am looking at my truck and...

I have no idea how I am going to get a jack tall enough to unload my suspension.

I know my highlift will do the trick, but I can see the truck deciding it wants to swing towards me and fall off the jack. my jackstands dont even touch the frame at rest so they are little to no help. Only thing I can think of is jacking it up, removing the wheels and settign it down like that and then hopeing I can get my floor jack to lift the truck by the hitch high enough, but I am not holding my breath that that will work either.


Maybe a bottle jack between the axle and the frame? :B

[Doable]

By chance do you have oak trees in your yard? You could use that in place of an "A" frame to lift the 4Runners frame to swap out the shackles.

The Hi Lift is not the tool of choice for this job.

[Volunteer]

Originally Posted by BikerTrash

Ok, I mentioned in another thread that I bent my shackles on the Alabama run. well got some new ones fabbed up and now I am looking at my truck and...

I have no idea how I am going to get a jack tall enough to unload my suspension.

I know my highlift will do the trick, but I can see the truck deciding it wants to swing towards me and fall off the jack. my jackstands dont even touch the frame at rest so they are little to no help. Only thing I can think of is jacking it up, removing the wheels and settign it down like that and then hopeing I can get my floor jack to lift the truck by the hitch high enough, but I am not holding my breath that that will work either.


Maybe a bottle jack between the axle and the frame? :B

I run into that all the time, I just had to take the shackles off the 40 to change ou the bushings I shreded at the CC I backed it up to the shop slap used a 4x4 along the back frame jacked it up with the floor jack until it releaved tension on the shackles slipped the them off and changed them out. The trick is alot of grease makes things easy.

What I did with the 67 take the wheels off and get you some blocks to go under your jack stands go as high as your floor jack will allow and put them on a high point along the frame then you can unload the springs and use the floor jack under the axle.

[sparkplug]

Does anyone know where to get the huge aftermarket tie-rod ends? I saw them a while back but can't find them anymore. For a Fj-40.

[Volunteer]

Originally Posted by sparkplug

Does anyone know where to get the huge aftermarket tie-rod ends? I saw them a while back but can't find them anymore. For a Fj-40.

I'm sure Mike knows but he'll be MIA for a bit with the new bambino. Will keep an eye out for em.

[tabascoloco]

Most folks like to use Joint Fuji they are the OEM manufacturer anyways. Run around 75 bucks for set of 5. I no longer run them, as I have 4x4 labs and use FJ80 (which are same as GM 1-ton) tie rod ends now.

[sparkplug]

Originally Posted by tabascoloco

Most folks like to use Joint Fuji they are the OEM manufacturer anyways. Run around 75 bucks for set of 5. I no longer run them, as I have 4x4 labs and use FJ80 (which are same as GM 1-ton) tie rod ends now.

Thanks Mike. I bought a set of those joint Fuji for my fj-60 and always wondered if they were stock. What I was looking for was about the size of a fist. Thanks again and congrats on the new addition.

[moomtazz]

What are ya'lls thoughts on a tube bumper? I've been talking with the guys at metal tech and Mark said he will make one for me with a brushguard. I think I will go for it and get their rear bumper also. I like the "full" bumpers like ARB, but I'm kind of concerned about weight issues now.

The thing with tube bumpers, I'm not sure if the opened up front is asking for trouble. I talked to mark about how the winch is kind of out there alone, but he said the stinger covers it, and he hasn't had issues with it dragging on a ledge.

Metal tech:









Road Armor: (This is that guy Mike's truck now, the one that stopped by the meeting a couple of months ago)



Expedition One:



ARB:




Another thing, the metaltech front/rear combo costs less than the road armor front alone, and not much more than the ARB or Expedition One.

[Volunteer]

I like them all Brian, the Expedition One stands out to me. I also like the one on the FJ at the Saturn dealership the broush guard goes around the head lights.