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Old 08-29-07, 08:58 PM   #121 (permalink)
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musson quoted me three times the price of man a fre and they could not even get the damn slave for like ten days to two weeks! i just ordered the rebuild kits to tide me over. no one had anything that was near by except advanced had the master three days and oreilly's had a slave three days. my 5/85 production date is a real bitch no one stocks anything. man a fre had it for a good price but i am going to hold out till jt gets the blue clutch master and slave for my truck. until then the kits will suffice, in the long run i will always have those rebuilt suckers as back ups once i get the good stuff from jt.

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Old 08-30-07, 06:55 AM   #122 (permalink)
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ck it this is the filter i was running on my cruisers when they quit making the large toyota. i believe that this the company that produced the toyota filter can't beat the price.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/6-Oil-Filters-Toyota-Land-Cruiser-FJ40-FJ55-FJ60-FJ62_W0QQitemZ300146015037QQihZ020QQcategoryZ33661 QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


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Old 08-30-07, 07:20 AM   #123 (permalink)
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Don't over look Cruiser Dan on this site. He works for American Toyota. Do a search. He has his direct number on this site and gets you good prices. Musson was pretty easy for my air hose I just ordered.


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Old 08-30-07, 08:26 AM   #124 (permalink)
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Don't over look Cruiser Dan on this site. He works for American Toyota. Do a search. He has his direct number on this site and gets you good prices. Musson was pretty easy for my air hose I just ordered.
Beat me to it, X2 and or Jacque who is our silent member Toyota Of Dallas that may be able to help too.


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Old 08-30-07, 08:53 AM   #125 (permalink)
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Jacque = coonass on MUD.


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Old 09-02-07, 09:02 AM   #126 (permalink)
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thanks for da insight man.


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Old 09-13-07, 07:20 AM   #127 (permalink)
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Front u-bolts: Do I have to extend them? I went by the springs place yesterday and I never thought about that when he asked. Is it a matter of measuring the axle and the spring pack to decide if they need to be extended?


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Old 09-13-07, 08:14 AM   #128 (permalink)
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you should measure the spring pack and the axle check it against a measurement on the old setup on your truck now. you can always grind off the excess. something i need to do to mine.


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Old 09-13-07, 08:18 AM   #129 (permalink)
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Front u-bolts: Do I have to extend them? I went by the springs place yesterday and I never thought about that when he asked. Is it a matter of measuring the axle and the spring pack to decide if they need to be extended?
Yes, measure the old spring pack thickness the section that sits on the axle, and the new. The difference is how much longer you need them.


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Old 09-13-07, 09:29 AM   #130 (permalink)
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Front u-bolts: Do I have to extend them? I went by the springs place yesterday and I never thought about that when he asked. Is it a matter of measuring the axle and the spring pack to decide if they need to be extended?
When i did mine the u-bolts that they made for me where about 1/2 inch longer. HE told me that this was the smallest u-bolt that he could make. (Lafayette Spring)
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Old 09-13-07, 10:47 AM   #131 (permalink)
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When i did mine the u-bolts that they made for me where about 1/2 inch longer. HE told me that this was the smallest u-bolt that he could make. (Lafayette Spring)
Thanks guys. Corey, that's where I went. He just wanted me to make sure and I really hadn't even thought of how long they should be. I'll know this weekend. He said he can have them made while I wait. Nice guy.


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Old 09-13-07, 12:26 PM   #132 (permalink)
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Very nice guy. I think it took him about 5-10 min to do 7 for me.
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Old 09-13-07, 12:36 PM   #133 (permalink)
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Those folks are good, like you said he takes no time while the lady's ringing you up he's getting your u-bolts and your out the door. They can build custom springs as well and do a good job of it.


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Old 09-13-07, 03:55 PM   #134 (permalink)
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Those folks are good, like you said he takes no time while the lady's ringing you up he's getting your u-bolts and your out the door. They can build custom springs as well and do a good job of it.
Yeah, I'm hoping that OME can give me 3 - 3.5" ...if not... gonna be needing some brake lines etc.. and gonna get Acadiana Spring to do it.

me


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Old 09-29-07, 09:10 AM   #135 (permalink)
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Okay tested the locker today, wow. I found out that I have to adjust the ebrake. I'm not to sure how to do this so I need some advice. My e brake is on the drums in the rear not on the tranny. Is it just a screw that can be tweaked?
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Old 09-29-07, 11:18 AM   #136 (permalink)
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I usually have lots of answers, but that one I'm not 100% positive on...I've had a ton of cruisers, and seem to remember having to apply the e brake while backing up (Rev). I think your model has the Self-adjusting type. I'm not sure though...someone might want to chime in and straighten us out on this one.


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Old 09-29-07, 12:08 PM   #137 (permalink)
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I got it Mike thanks. There is an adjustment on the back side of the drum.
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Old 09-29-07, 01:59 PM   #138 (permalink)
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I wasn't 100% but I am 99% that somewhere in 1980/81 onward FJ40's had self-adjusting drums on Land Cruisers...and 75-onward Toyota trucks too....since you have an 81, I figured yours had the self-adjusting type.


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Old 09-29-07, 04:56 PM   #139 (permalink)
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It has the myself adjustment.
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Old 09-29-07, 06:12 PM   #140 (permalink)
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10-4....every 1980/81 onwards I know of self-adjusts...if yours doesn't, then likely your E-brake either doesn't work well or something isn't greased well, etc. Usually you tighten it manually all-the-way, then backoff till it drags a little (on ALL MODELS this part is the same)...but on 81's onward, they self-adjust via E-brake and you shouldn't have to manually adjust unless the Ebrake is way out of adjustment or broke.


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Old 09-29-07, 09:56 PM   #141 (permalink)
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It has the myself adjustment.
Yep, the later 80 models had the e-brake cable running parallel with the rear axle like the mini-trucks and you can adjust it there. Alot of times when you put a lift it would either one cause slack or two it would be to tight and have to give slack. How's the locker do?


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Old 10-15-07, 10:24 AM   #142 (permalink)
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The Maintenance Thread

Isaac came up with the idea for a maintenance thread to help and support others. Its a great idea so here it is.


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Old 10-15-07, 11:17 AM   #143 (permalink)
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The one thing that has bothered me with my cruisers is the slave and master cylinder. Mostly the slave. I hate having to drive home popping the clutch in traffic because my slave cylinder is shot. Over the years I have changed or honed out at least 8 slave cylinders. I don't know if anyone else has this problem or if I am just lucky. You can add years of life to your cylinders by changing the fluid once a year. What happens is that condensation builds up in your lines. Even though your clutch/break fluid is lubricating your lines and cylinders, the water from condensation is oxidizing your cylinder as well. Changing the fluid will keep cylinders smooth and rubber plunger from being worn down. Hope this helps.


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Old 10-16-07, 01:05 PM   #144 (permalink)
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Ok, I have looked at 125 threads on freeze plugs and I can't find any with my exact problem. A few weeks back I had a water leak. I thought it was comming from the engine drain plug. Not so lucky. My freeze plug has sprang a leak. It is directly under the manifold. I have never changed one before and there isnt much room for swinging a hammer. Has anyone changed this on a fj-60 while the motor was still in the truck? I think I have enough room to pry it out. Getting a new one in is going to be tricky. Can I use a puck jack to install the new one, or will I just create a huge hole in the side of my motor?


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Old 10-16-07, 02:42 PM   #145 (permalink)
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Ok, I have looked at 125 threads on freeze plugs and I can't find any with my exact problem. A few weeks back I had a water leak. I thought it was comming from the engine drain plug. Not so lucky. My freeze plug has sprang a leak. It is directly under the manifold. I have never changed one before and there isnt much room for swinging a hammer. Has anyone changed this on a fj-60 while the motor was still in the truck? I think I have enough room to pry it out. Getting a new one in is going to be tricky. Can I use a puck jack to install the new one, or will I just create a huge hole in the side of my motor?
I've never had to change any in the truck if I had too and it was where you say it is I'd take the manifold/carb setup off which would drop the exaust down giving plenty room to work on it. It would also be a good time to fix that manifold leak.


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Old 10-16-07, 02:53 PM   #146 (permalink)
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I'm scared! That may be out of the realm of my skills.


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Old 10-16-07, 03:10 PM   #147 (permalink)
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I did the ultimate flush and refill a few years back on my 2F...don't recall having any issue(s) whatsoever...got the plugs easily...don't even recall having to order them....shouldn't take much to install. I drained my system completely...I even blew compressed air all around while i had the plugs off in case there was any loose debris etc...I was doing the header, so well, that side was totally opened up...definitely do what Larry suggested and fix that leak while your at it.

PS: There are more freeze plugs front and rear, but I doubt you wanna go there...


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Old 10-16-07, 03:38 PM   #148 (permalink)
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I did the ultimate flush and refill a few years back on my 2F...don't recall having any issue(s) whatsoever...got the plugs easily...don't even recall having to order them....shouldn't take much to install. I drained my system completely...I even blew compressed air all around while i had the plugs off in case there was any loose debris etc...I was doing the header, so well, that side was totally opened up...definitely do what Larry suggested and fix that leak while your at it.

PS: There are more freeze plugs front and rear, but I doubt you wanna go there...
Def don't want to go there. A little tid bit I've seen done on a few 40's was they cut an access door in the firewall from the inside to get to the rear freeze plug. I can't stand to see stuff like that. Isaac its not as bad as it seems PB blaster is your friend the worst that can heppen is a stud breaks in the head that would be bad. But look on the bright side I changed all the studs on the 67 and not one broke. Take digital pics before you take it off order new exaust manifold gaskets from Toyota with your freeze plugs I would change them all on that side while you have that all down. Soak the manifold bolts down real good the day before you dive into it it'll make breaking the bolts much easier. We'll coach you all the way. If not we can get to it at the next wrenching session but its not something you wanna risk driving like that. There is always the cheapo rubber plugs you can put in and tighten up to get you by for a little while I just wouldn't use them longterm.


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Old 10-16-07, 04:19 PM   #149 (permalink)
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I did the ultimate flush and refill a few years back on my 2F...don't recall having any issue(s) whatsoever...got the plugs easily...don't even recall having to order them....shouldn't take much to install. I drained my system completely...I even blew compressed air all around while i had the plugs off in case there was any loose debris etc...I was doing the header, so well, that side was totally opened up...definitely do what Larry suggested and fix that leak while your at it.

PS: There are more freeze plugs front and rear, but I doubt you wanna go there...



This is on my 60. Did you do this on a 60 or a 40?


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Old 10-16-07, 04:37 PM   #150 (permalink)
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Def don't want to go there. A little tid bit I've seen done on a few 40's was they cut an access door in the firewall from the inside to get to the rear freeze plug. I can't stand to see stuff like that. Isaac its not as bad as it seems PB blaster is your friend the worst that can heppen is a stud breaks in the head that would be bad. But look on the bright side I changed all the studs on the 67 and not one broke. Take digital pics before you take it off order new exaust manifold gaskets from Toyota with your freeze plugs I would change them all on that side while you have that all down. Soak the manifold bolts down real good the day before you dive into it it'll make breaking the bolts much easier. We'll coach you all the way. If not we can get to it at the next wrenching session but its not something you wanna risk driving like that. There is always the cheapo rubber plugs you can put in and tighten up to get you by for a little while I just wouldn't use them longterm.
Thanks for the offer on the wrenching session. The leak is more like a waterfall. All coolant comes out in about 45 seconds. I will order parts and attempt to do this solo. I guess I am going to need paint pens in every color in the color spectrum for my smog and vacuum lines. It is time to get to know my cruiser a little better. I just hope it isn't a cracked block. I have heard the 80's have had this problem. will I need any special tools other than a torque wrench for the manifolds?

PS: I will take you up on your previous offer to fine tune the 40 with
the not so smooth idle problem. Hope to make it over to your side of the state for the next wrenching session and the dealership event. My only problem is I fish for a living, and my boss likes to fish on the weekends, last minute.


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