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Old 10-30-09, 09:17 PM   #1231 (permalink)
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Glad to hear you got her fixed fast.


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Old 11-09-09, 02:53 PM   #1232 (permalink)
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Mike here ia some TTORA info on the AC Clutch:
TTORA Forum - Search Results
Novice trying A/C compressor job - TTORA Forum
http://ncttora.com/fsm/2000/Repair%2...essor/comp.pdf

i pulled the belt off and turned the pully by hand. i found that the pully was a little loose so i figured it was the bearing on the pulley behind the clutch. i replaced that bearing and it's nice and quiet now.

if you have a problem with the compressor itself then you've got alot more work to do to remove the whole thing.

if you want to give just the pulley bearing a try here is some step by step

-take the a/c belt off (you will need to pull the power steer belt first)
-there is a 10mm bolt holding the outer part of the clutch on. you will need to hold the pulley with a strap wrench or you could use a big set of channel locks like i did and gouge things up. when you remove the outer part of the clutch a washer/spacer/shim will fall out from between. it's pretty small.

-there is a snap ring that holds the pulley on the shaft. it's really tricky to get off because you don't have much space. i used a flashlight, a little mirror and right angled snap ring pliers. it got a little frustrating to get it off.
-after that you will need to pry the pulley off the compressor. i used a big crowbar and hit it with a dead blow hammer until it popped off.

when i got the pulley off it was pretty easy to tell that was where the noise was coming from. i could barely turn the bearing with my fingers.

then you just need to press the old bearing out of the pulley with a vice and a big socket. the bearing itself was about $100 canadian at a local bearing supplier and took a couple of days to get it. my '04 used a nachi bearing part #30BG05S2G-2DS

i also replaced the tension pulley bearing at the same time even though it was ok. this bearing was $25.

toyota does not sell the bearing itself. the whole a/c clutch from toyota was going to be about $700 and most parts stores wanted somewhere around $500 if they could actually get it.


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Old 11-09-09, 08:18 PM   #1233 (permalink)
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Thanks John that is some good information. I can`t want to do it


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Old 11-11-09, 09:02 PM   #1234 (permalink)
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hypothetical situation: Suposed you bought a 2006 dodge with a cummins, then 300 miles later the torque converter blew the fuck up. You like the truck and cant return it anyway because of the way used car laws work in Louisianna if a vehichle is sold with a warrenty so you are gettign the trans fixed under warenty. Knowing that the torque converters are a weak point on the trucks you pay extra for an upgraded unit.

Then suposed that someone on another forum told you that when you upgrade the torque converter it is "highly highly highly recomended" (thats three highly's people) to upgrade the input shaft of the transmission to 300m Billet. Since you have no money now due to buying an upgraded torque converter and paying a downpayment on the thing, do you charge an 800 dollar shaft, plus the added labor to tear the transmission the rest of the way down to change that shaft out as well? I am more inclined to thinking save your money till you can afford a compleatly built transmission when/if this current one goes out again a year or two down the road rather than nickle and diming (or more acurately Grant and Benjamin-ing) your self to death with upgrades to the stock case?



Please bear in mind this is compleatly hypothetical. (I wish)


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Old 11-11-09, 09:18 PM   #1235 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BikerTrash View Post
hypothetical situation: Suposed you bought a 2006 dodge with a cummins, then 300 miles later the torque converter blew the **** up. You like the truck and cant return it anyway because of the way used car laws work in Louisianna if a vehichle is sold with a warrenty so you are gettign the trans fixed under warenty. Knowing that the torque converters are a weak point on the trucks you pay extra for an upgraded unit.

Then supposed that someone on another forum told you that when you upgrade the torque converter it is "highly highly highly recomended" (thats three highly's people) to upgrade the input shaft of the transmission to 300m Billet. Since you have no money now due to buying an upgraded torque converter and paying a downpayment on the thing, do you charge an 800 dollar shaft, plus the added labor to tear the transmission the rest of the way down to change that shaft out as well? I am more inclined to thinking save your money till you can afford a compleatly built transmission when/if this current one goes out again a year or two down the road rather than nickle and diming (or more acurately Grant and Benjamin-ing) your self to death with upgrades to the stock case?



Please bear in mind this is compleatly hypothetical. (I wish)
Sorry to hear bud.

I know the 93 on to 99 Dodge auto trannys behind the diesels had issues I even saw a brand new one grenade on the lot at Acadiana Dodge while going out for a test drive. If taking the hit to upgrade the shaft plus upgrading the converter meant a longer life on the tranny to get your money out of the two upgrades I would take the hit and go that route while its already down. My father in law went through 2 auto trannys behind his 94 auto with a 318 before it hit 100K I just think they were making crap trannys. How many miles is on it ? While at it I would think to put fresh oil and filter in it as well but I tend to be on the over maintaining side of things just throwing my .2 out there bud.


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Old 11-13-09, 12:41 PM   #1236 (permalink)
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If you are looking at upgrading the auto look into these guys, The are holding up to some high torque numbers, like over 1,000 ft pounds of torque.

Sun Coast Converters Diesel Transmissions, Fort Walton Beach FL


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Old 11-13-09, 05:06 PM   #1237 (permalink)
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If you are looking at upgrading the auto look into these guys, The are holding up to some high torque numbers, like over 1,000 ft pounds of torque.

Sun Coast Converters Diesel Transmissions, Fort Walton Beach FL

Oooooo Interesting link there Albert!


My struck is out of the shop now with only 700 dollars out of my pocket but I am saving my pennies incase (when) I blow up another one.


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Old 11-14-09, 06:26 PM   #1238 (permalink)
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hypothetical situation: Suposed you bought a 2006 dodge with a cummins, then 300 miles later the torque converter blew the **** up. case?
Please bear in mind this is compleatly hypothetical. (I wish)
Do we have another goat owner among us? Lets see some burn out videos that caused those bad trannies.


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Old 11-14-09, 08:01 PM   #1239 (permalink)
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Do we have another goat owner among us? Lets see some burn out videos that caused those bad trannies.

Why does everyone here and at cumminsforum assume I was beating on it when that happened?


Besides the camera was not rolling at the time.


Truck is out of the shop and at the house now. I just need to get my self to the house.


Who else owns a Goat? Paul totaled the ramcharger didnt he?


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Old 11-15-09, 02:14 PM   #1240 (permalink)
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Albert got an Ram 2500 mid summer and I know he has felt the power.


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Old 11-15-09, 03:55 PM   #1241 (permalink)
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O Rly? I was unaware of that.


I really need to pay more attention.


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Old 11-16-09, 04:15 PM   #1242 (permalink)
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Albert got an Ram 2500 mid summer and I know he has felt the power.
Yep Getting almost the same fuel mileage in the Ram 2500 diesel empty, day to day back and forth to work 17.5
mpg average as I was in the gas GMC with the V8 4.7L 19.0 mpg average engine....BUT there is no comparison the amount of power ,torque and speed this truck has against what I was driving.

Pulling a trailer the truck with A/C on and cruise control set Broussard to HotSprings NEVER down shifted once on the overpasses! passing people in the left lane going uphill with trailer in tow with the 2500 is priceless

Josh if you have the 06 I think you will have an emissions free engine compared to my truck with the DPF, EGR and what not.

It is more expensive to maintain(oil changes, etc.) but I feel it is a trade off for what the truck can do and the mileage to be expected from the engine with out major repair 500,000miles.


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Last edited by Doable; 11-16-09 at 04:27 PM.
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Old 11-16-09, 05:11 PM   #1243 (permalink)
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Hay mon i think you have a flat on there trailer


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Old 11-16-09, 05:18 PM   #1244 (permalink)
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Yep I am emmisions free ... your still getting better mileage than me though. wierd.


I only did a partial tank in the little bit of time I had it before it went to the shop but all I was getting was like 15 1/2 or so. I was expecting from all the stories I have heard to get about that towing

Like you said though not loosing much compaired to the ford I traded. went from 17ish to 15ish. I am hopeing the new torque converter brings my milage up, if the old one was real loose it might have been hurting my mileage. maybe??


you were running your truck in tow/haul or OD off?


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