Tech Questions Here - Page 32

raevenzero · 06-20-09, 10:18 PM

So far everything is new except for the carrier bearings. The wife doesn't like me to spend money so I end up doing everything these even more expensive way (one at a time).

If I hear anything else coming from the rear end I am just going to assume that its a bad setup. Right now I am just getting a little noise on float but it's hardly noticeable. Everything else sounds fine.

kjnarmyfj · 06-24-09, 04:05 PM

any sugestions on wiring the top lights one switch are 2? i know they are 35 watts but it dont say and amp draw ,on the lights what size fues should i run if u go single switch 20 amp ?

kjnarmyfj · 06-24-09, 04:06 PM

dam put that in the wrong fourm

GOT@TACO · 06-24-09, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kjnarmyfj

any sugestions on wiring the top lights one switch are 2? i know they are 35 watts but it dont say and amp draw ,on the lights what size fues should i run if u go single switch 20 amp ?

Go with two switches the man in front of you might give you the

Go with a 25 or 30 amp fuse, all you need is one fuse for all four lights

raevenzero · 06-24-09, 06:49 PM

Use any switch and put a relay in the circuit. Then I would hook a amp meter up to see what the lights are pulling. Put a breaker in series with the lights that is a maybe 1.5 times the draw you saw. That way you will always have plenty of power for your lights but will kick in the event of a short.

kjnarmyfj · 06-24-09, 07:19 PM

yea i got an extra kc harness just im rnning 4 hids but i got it , all 6 0n in retarded brite! omy f-n gosh brite! makes reg kc day lighters loook like match sticks!

cruzersoul · 06-25-09, 08:01 PM

I have a 66 FJ40 and a while back I installed a weber carb on it because the original carb was beyond repair. The weber 32/36 seems to work great when it comes to starting, idling and slow acceleration but when it is under heavy acceleration its a whole different beast. Heres my problem, when I try to accelerate quickly and I mean pedal to the floor as quickly as possible the engine will almost die like it is either getting to much fuel or not enough. I did notice today that my electric choke is fully open all of the time and if I would hold the choke about half way closed and then accelerate quickly the engine seemed accelerate much smoother and didnt quite act like it wanted to die. I live in lafayette and if anyone lives in the city and is familiar with carburetors I beg you please help me out. I have a hard time explaing the problem so it would be easier for someone to actually hear it. I think I possibly may have to re=jet the carb but I am really just guessing at this point.

Thanks in advance
-Cruzersoul-

Volunteer · 06-25-09, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruzersoul

I have a 66 FJ40 and a while back I installed a weber carb on it because the original carb was beyond repair. The weber 32/36 seems to work great when it comes to starting, idling and slow acceleration but when it is under heavy acceleration its a whole different beast. Heres my problem, when I try to accelerate quickly and I mean pedal to the floor as quickly as possible the engine will almost die like it is either getting to much fuel or not enough. I did notice today that my electric choke is fully open all of the time and if I would hold the choke about half way closed and then accelerate quickly the engine seemed accelerate much smoother and didnt quite act like it wanted to die. I live in lafayette and if anyone lives in the city and is familiar with carburetors I beg you please help me out. I have a hard time explaing the problem so it would be easier for someone to actually hear it. I think I possibly may have to re=jet the carb but I am really just guessing at this point.

Thanks in advance
-Cruzersoul-

It sounds like a jet issue which has been known to be an issue on some webers. Shipped with the wrong jets. Paul tracked down some good info a short time ago on them while running into the same issue. I'm sure you checked but do you have good fuel pressure from the fuel pump? Old factory mechanical pump could have a leaking diaphragm. I think I still have one off my 67 if you need it. We have our monthly meeting at Buffalo Wild Wings this Sunday 1 - 3 p.m. it would be a good time to come out and say hello. If I'm able I'd be happy to take a ride over and look at it for you.

Some good info.
http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series...nt-thread.html

lostinafog · 06-26-09, 06:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Volunteer

It sounds like a jet issue which has been known to be an issue on some webers. Shipped with the wrong jets. Paul tracked down some good info a short time ago on them while running into the same issue. I'm sure you checked but do you have good fuel pressure from the fuel pump? Old factory mechanical pump could have a leaking diaphragm. I think I still have one off my 67 if you need it. We have our monthly meeting at Buffalo Wild Wings this Sunday 1 - 3 p.m. it would be a good time to come out and say hello. If I'm able I'd be happy to take a ride over and look at it for you.

Some good info.
http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series...nt-thread.html

yep that.s what it sounds like

cruzersoul · 06-26-09, 08:24 AM

I have not actualy checked my fuel pressure but I dont think that my fuel pump is at fault because I have one of those cheap fuel filters where you can see the amount of gas in it and the gas never really goes down in it.

-Cruzersoul-

raevenzero · 06-26-09, 10:24 AM

Somewhere you are getting too much air in your air/fuel ratio. Closing off the choke balances this out. This could be a jet not giving the engine enough fuel or it could be an air leak on the engine side of your carb.

cruzersoul · 06-26-09, 11:32 AM

So I should check for a leak around the engine side of the intake manifold. Should I also check for a crack in the manifold.

lostinafog · 06-26-09, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruzersoul

So I should check for a leak around the engine side of the intake manifold. Should I also check for a crack in the manifold.

if idle is ok then it isn`t likely
you have any air leaks . pop the top on the weber see what your main /air venturi/pump jet/ idle jet are that you have then go from there and while ya got it apart replace the float with a brass one.

cruzersoul · 06-26-09, 01:26 PM

so just pull of the upper choke plate of the carb

lostinafog · 06-26-09, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruzersoul

so just pull of the upper choke plate of the carb

yep that will give you access ya have 6 screws & the Eclip on the choke cam be careful lifting and should be able to save the gasket.on the end of the jets are the #`s mains in the fuel bowl air on top also the pump nozzle # will be on its body

BikerTrash · 07-01-09, 05:13 AM

Little late on the Light thing but..... if they are 35 watt bulbs, in a 12 volt system then they are drawing 3 amps a piece. X4lights in your picture so that gives you 12 amps total, but then you have some resistance in the wires, switches, relays and all that and I am just gonna guestimate thats worth another 2 amsps so you end up at 14, I would go with a 20 amp fuze just to have some breathing room.

just my $.02 though.

kjnarmyfj · 07-01-09, 08:04 PM

thanks dude i got it all up . the lights drew 35 watts each and i fig a red kc drews 55 and it came stock with 20 amp so i put 35 and i been running them and been working ! thanks!

BikerTrash · 07-03-09, 12:40 PM

Ok.. $runner wont start. Keeps loosing prime on fuel. Tired of swapping fuel pumps.

How do you install an electric fuel pump in a way that does not look like it is a "Presidential Solution".
The reason I ask is the last time I just had it run to a toggle switch, forgot it on over night, filled my block with regular unleaded till it over flowed out the carb.

cruzersoul · 07-03-09, 01:16 PM

Like the title says I found a guy in Texas that has a set of HJ60 axles with 3.73 third members. I was wondering how hard it will be to install these axles if I were to buy them. I also wanted to know what everyone thinks about this conversion as far as pro's and con's.

-Cruzersoul-

cruzersoul · 07-05-09, 04:07 PM

I cant believe that nobody has any input on the FJ60 axles on a FJ40 Conversion. I would like to hear what you guys think so I can decide on whether to get them or not.

-Cruzersoul-

GOT@TACO · 07-05-09, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruzersoul

I cant believe that nobody has any input on the FJ60 axles on a FJ40 Conversion. I would like to hear what you guys think so I can decide on whether to get them or not.

-Cruzersoul-

Sorry bud we were all out on the trails this weekend having fun in the hot sun. Somebody will help you.

cruzersoul · 07-05-09, 05:38 PM

No worries I kind of figured that you all were at the sicily island run. The guy that has the axles is in Houston and he wants 400 for the pair and I believe they come with 3.73 third members. He says that the front axle probably needs a rebuild. He also has a 4 speed transmission out of the same 60 with a split transfer case which from what I have read is supposed to be toyotas strongest transfer case anyways he wants another 300 for that combo so let me know what you all think.

-Cruzersoul-

moomtazz · 07-05-09, 06:12 PM

The only thing I remember from reading about people swapping 60 axles in was they are wider (more stability) and you have to make some adjustments to the spring perches. Your best bet is searching here on mud for info.

cruzersoul · 07-05-09, 09:17 PM

From what I read on mud the rear axle is pretty much plug and play with some minor modifications to the perches. I would have to bring the perches in a inch or so because the 60 was a bit wider in the rear but I think that would be pretty easy. The front axle seems like it may be a little bit harder. When Toyota made the 60 axle they added 2.75 inches to the long side of the axle which in turn moved the diff over farther to the passenger side. This means that the diff is essentially right beside the perch with little to no ability to move the passenger side perch inboard. There are a few things that you can do to remedy this. A. Cut into the diff ever so slightly so you can move the perch over. B. Something involving a lot of welding which sounds like a horrible idea. C. Move the leaf spring hangers outboard ( I Think) which seems like the best idea all though I think it would be the most difficult option.

-Cruzersoul-

Volunteer · 07-06-09, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruzersoul

Like the title says I found a guy in Texas that has a set of HJ60 axles with 3.73 third members. I was wondering how hard it will be to install these axles if I were to buy them. I also wanted to know what everyone thinks about this conversion as far as pro's and con's.

-Cruzersoul-

Wouldn't be much to install on the rear just moving the perches not sure about the front but I'd prefer a set from a 75 - 78 FJ40 with 411's and the disc front axle for your application.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruzersoul

I cant believe that nobody has any input on the FJ60 axles on a FJ40 Conversion. I would like to hear what you guys think so I can decide on whether to get them or not.

-Cruzersoul-

Sorry bud we were on the trails and the Iphone was dead.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruzersoul

From what I read on mud the rear axle is pretty much plug and play with some minor modifications to the perches. I would have to bring the perches in a inch or so because the 60 was a bit wider in the rear but I think that would be pretty easy. The front axle seems like it may be a little bit harder. When Toyota made the 60 axle they added 2.75 inches to the long side of the axle which in turn moved the diff over farther to the passenger side. This means that the diff is essentially right beside the perch with little to no ability to move the passenger side perch inboard. There are a few things that you can do to remedy this. A. Cut into the diff ever so slightly so you can move the perch over. B. Something involving a lot of welding which sounds like a horrible idea. C. Move the leaf spring hangers outboard ( I Think) which seems like the best idea all though I think it would be the most difficult option.

-Cruzersoul-

Sounds like you found what you were looking for. Here is a good read with pics that should answer most of your questions if you haven't already seen it.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series...55-series.html

cruzersoul · 07-06-09, 01:52 PM

I think I am going to go ahead and buy the HJ60 axles. Is there really any downside to buying them aside from the fabricating which I think I can do. He thinks the front axle needs a rebuild. The guy wants 400 dollars for them is that overpriced. Nobody else seems interested in them so I think I could probably offer less. Why should I stick with the 411's. I thought that since I have 35's on my 40 the lower 3.73's would be a better option. In all actuality I think that converting to the 60 series axles give me 3 benefits. Disc brake front axle, Wider stance and the lower gearing. I also forgot to mention that the guy will be in Lafayette this weekend and will deliver them for free. Please let me know what you think, If I am completely wrong about this conversion let me know. I have nothing against constructive criticism especially if it save me time and money.

-Cruzersoul-

Volunteer · 07-06-09, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruzersoul

I think I am going to go ahead and buy the HJ60 axles. Is there really any downside to buying them aside from the fabricating which I think I can do. He thinks the front axle needs a rebuild. The guy wants 400 dollars for them is that overpriced. Nobody else seems interested in them so I think I could probably offer less. Why should I stick with the 411's. I thought that since I have 35's on my 40 the lower 3.73's would be a better option. In all actuality I think that converting to the 60 series axles give me 3 benefits. Disc brake front axle, Wider stance and the lower gearing. I also forgot to mention that the guy will be in Lafayette this weekend and will deliver them for free. Please let me know what you think, If I am completely wrong about this conversion let me know. I have nothing against constructive criticism especially if it save me time and money.

-Cruzersoul-

I'm not saying its the wrong route and I don't know anyone personally thats ever done the swap to 60 axles. Your gearing is off though its the higher 4.11's you'll want to have. You'd actually be better off regearing to 4.88's to match the 35 inch tire but for poking around the 4.11's would get you by ok. You won't like how the engine lugs with the 3.73's and 35's better for the highway and mpg than around town and the trail. Don't remember if you still have the original F or did they swap in a 2F.

Chart Gear Ratio

Like my 67 if I were you I'd source a front axle from a 75 - 78 with the 4.11's to match your rear gearing it'll be a 30 spline instead of the 10 but the gearing will match and you'll be able to have the much needed disc conversion. The other option is the minitruck disc conversion. The 4.11 gearing as is with the 35's 3PSD tranny and older case will do well around town and on the trail maybe adding a 4SPD if you plan to do much hwy driving.

GOT@TACO · 07-06-09, 02:57 PM

Gear ratio guide for larger tires.

cruzersoul · 07-06-09, 03:00 PM

That is what I was looking for. I guess I will wait around for a disc brake front axle off a 40 to come available. It gets frustrating because I want to drive my 40 and I have been working on it for about a year. I guess it is true that good things come to those that wait. Thanks for the input Larry.

-Cruzersoul-

Volunteer · 07-06-09, 03:13 PM

Anytime, what are you lacking to get it going? I maybe able to help with a part you're lacking. I'll be heading up to TN the last week in the month and will work on my Dad's 70 model I also have a 74 there with plenty spare parts. No disc front axle sorry I need one for his as well.