Tech Questions Here - Page 30

Volunteer · 05-19-09, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moomtazz

I took a look at the power steering pump bracket on the 40 yesterday. With the nut/spacer in between the bracket and reservoir, a lobe on the shaft "housing" of the pump was hitting the bottom edge of the bracket. In an alternate reality in which I weren't lazy (or scared to pull the pump out and create some leaks), I would grind about 1/8" off of the bottom corner of the bracket and it would be good. Instead I just pulled out the nut and stacked 3 washers as a spacer. The pulley is not perfecty in line but it is better than it was with no spacer.

If you want help removing the pulley and or pump for some grinding there is nothing to it. The return line has no pressure and can easily be replaced if need be. Its the high pressure hose with the fittings you don't want to booger up but they are built pretty sturdy.

kjnarmyfj · 05-19-09, 08:14 PM

info i installed my winch to day works great! any way if any of yall are lookng for a winch that smittybilt is pretty quick , fpm no load 37.2 and with 8000lbs full load 9.6 pretty quick for 460 buck winch , im gona post some pics of it tomarro

Volunteer · 05-19-09, 11:14 PM

Sweet, pics, pics

beyondlogic · 05-22-09, 10:04 AM

this is more of a opinion than tech but anyway.

the front axle i bought has the same 4.10 gears that my truck has, my truck has the v6/turbo rear which is a 4 pinion carrier and harder to weld, therefore i would like the take the diff out the front axle i bought weld it up and install it in my rear axle on my truck now(instant locked rear).

i know the v6 diff is stronger than the 4cyl diff, so the question is do i really do enough or hard enough wheeling that i should worry about it or just do it and forget it?

P.S. all this because i really want to be locked but am trying to save every penny i have extra right now to get that solid axle under my truck.

kjnarmyfj · 05-22-09, 08:44 PM

ok im doing a dule batt set up in the fj and using and isolator so my winch and lights just come of the #2 batt and my alt charges them , do u think i need to put a on off switch to so i can shut that batt off are just use #1 or #2 for what ever ??

sparkplug · 05-22-09, 11:17 PM

I would put a on/off switch just in case you get a grounding problem. I have seen it happen and both go dead. My .2 cents.

lostinafog · 05-23-09, 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beyondlogic

this is more of a opinion than tech but anyway.

the front axle i bought has the same 4.10 gears that my truck has, my truck has the v6/turbo rear which is a 4 pinion carrier and harder to weld, therefore i would like the take the diff out the front axle i bought weld it up and install it in my rear axle on my truck now(instant locked rear).rely

i know the v6 diff is stronger than the 4cyl diff, so the question is do i really do enough or hard enough wheeling that i should worry about it or just do it and forget it? it will be plenty strong

P.S. all this because i really want to be locked but am trying to save every penny i have extra right now to get that solid axle under my truck.

pinchin pennies is never a good thing when it comes to

just my .05 worth inflation ya know

lostinafog · 05-23-09, 08:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kjnarmyfj

ok im doing a dule batt set up in the fj and using and isolator so my winch and lights just come of the #2 batt and my alt charges them , do u think i need to put a on off switch to so i can shut that batt off are just use #1 or #2 for what ever ??

use a marine select switch have the best of both worlds

GOT@TACO · 05-23-09, 09:32 AM

I can`t turn my e-locks off after putting my gears in

GOT@TACO · 05-23-09, 02:40 PM

Paul you are the man! Thank for your help.

lostinafog · 05-23-09, 03:00 PM

anytime

glad that was all it was

kjnarmyfj · 05-23-09, 03:22 PM

ytea thats what im gona use my best bud own a boat repair bis and he has some perko switches

kjnarmyfj · 05-25-09, 09:30 PM

helppp !! ok to day i read like 20 diff fourms on the fj doing the a tract front locker hack witch lets u run the front locker with the back one 2 gether i seen 3 diff how tos and they all said the same with many pepeol who have done it , well printed out the directions and cut the wire and put it to another just like they said! and low and behold it didnt work , made a code come up and no the fj is is some kinda mode wher it dont respond to throttle in put just satya at 850 rpm , yeaa i looked at the toyota tec manual and its the right wire i cut and stuff just says i have 2 clear the code , haha so how u explan that to musson?!!! this is gona get good! haha

kjnarmyfj · 05-25-09, 09:32 PM

Rear Locker + ATRAC - Write up - TTORA Forum this is the link to what i was doing easy !! but my luck is bad!

Volunteer · 05-25-09, 11:19 PM

Just take to autozone and clear the code or come by I can do it for you. I don't know that disconnecting the battery would clear it or not?

kjnarmyfj · 05-26-09, 12:54 AM

tryed the batt didnt do it , and it wont drive hass no throttle , cuz its (fly by wire) i read its in some type of mode that does that , so now i have to get a wrecker to bring it to musson to clear it

lostinafog · 05-26-09, 06:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kjnarmyfj

tryed the batt didnt do it , and it wont drive hass no throttle , cuz its (fly by wire) i read its in some type of mode that does that , so now i have to get a wrecker to bring it to musson to clear it

doubt that clearing code fill fix it by removing batt should have cleared the fault then it woud have reset its self if it the ECM still saw the problem.
noticed the thread was in 06 what year is yours might not be the same wire or location mfg`s like to move thing around change color etc etc.

put back the way it was disconnect neg on batt wait a couple minutes re install batt cable
should put ya on the road again

ps did ya do the mod under the hood or under the dash?

kjnarmyfj · 05-26-09, 04:19 PM

i did un der the hood and i put it on teh scan tool a my frieds dad shop cleard it and it just kept coming back , checked fueses, its back factory , brought it to musson to see , ??

lostinafog · 05-26-09, 06:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kjnarmyfj

i did un der the hood and i put it on teh scan tool a my frieds dad shop cleard it and it just kept coming back , checked fueses, its back factory , brought it to musson to see , ??

bring plenty money honey

kjnarmyfj · 05-26-09, 06:20 PM

iput it back factory and re taped it and didnt say crap just told them it has no throttle and the lights wer on , i have warrenty but the guy saw my snorkel he was like did it work before u put that snorkel i was like yea it been on ther for like2 months and i dont think that has nothing to do with the abs and trac control , hopfully they fix it under warrenty!

kjnarmyfj · 05-27-09, 09:59 AM

Ok gotthe fj back and the fixed it the abs fuse had blown it's. Some crazy fuse that u can't freaking check I made the reck show me it cost me 28 bucks. The guy gave me. My bslca discount. Don't know y doing that mod bow a fuse crazy on well

BikerTrash · 06-09-09, 05:38 PM

Ok I am getting what smells like gear oil out out the end of my hub... is it just an o ring in the hub or what?

and looking at the picture I also see I am missing a lugnut...

cajun65 · 06-09-09, 05:49 PM

Looks like the same issue that Larry had in Arkansas. Larry made fixing it look easy, but that's all I got for help.

John Stw · 06-09-09, 05:59 PM

Looks like you need to get some Marlin HD inner axle seals.
Do you have oil leaking around the knuckle any where?
We might be ordering some seals for my friend's truck if you want to combine shipping it should help.

raevenzero · 06-09-09, 06:23 PM

Hopefully it's just around the outer portion because those cone washers and the snap ring can be a pain!

raevenzero · 06-09-09, 06:38 PM

Now for some information that helps.....

You can drain the oil and put fresh oil in when you finish...OR...you can jack up that hub above the level of your oil fill plug to get all of the oil to stay below the hub you are working on.

1. Make sure the hub is in the "FREE" position 2. Remove bolts 3. Carefully remove the outer part of the hub (there is a spring and a gear attached to it) 4. Apply gasket and reinstall in reverse order.

Be sure to keep the hub in the "FREE" position or the gear will leave its holder and can sometimes be difficult to reinstall. On a scale of 1-10 I would say its a 2 and should take about 5 minutes.

John Stw · 06-09-09, 07:23 PM

That will help keep the fluid from leaking from the hub, but the gear oil should not get pass the axle seals to end up in the hub assembly to begin with. The knuckles and hubs should have grease in them not gear oil the gaskets are designed to keep water and undesirables out to prevent corrosion to these internal parts.

lostinafog · 06-09-09, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BikerTrash

Ok I am getting what smells like gear oil out out the end of my hub... is it just an o ring in the hub or what?

and looking at the picture I also see I am missing a lugnut...

your inner axle seal is NFG.

as for the nut go lookin da mirror

raevenzero · 06-09-09, 08:38 PM

These were the first axles I ever took apart. I guess my inner seal were already out because it looked to me like everything in there was lubricated with the gear oil. I just made sure everything else was sealed up good. I am glad that someone smarter than me said something because now he can do the right thing and I can look into repairing mine as well (although it will have to wait until after I replace a bearing on the rear carrier and then fix a number of things on my bike).

raevenzero · 06-10-09, 07:25 PM

Anyone have a press that I could use to press some bearings? Shouldn't take long.