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Old 05-06-08, 03:57 PM   #451
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i don't really want to talk about the "starter" problem because it will land me in the Thread of Shame. I'll chalk it up to inexperience....

I did get some new fuel line and a filter. The metal fuel line is run up under the truck and comes out kind of by the vents in the apron. I have about 2" of hose coming from the metal line, then the filter, then about 3' that I ran through a hole in the frame, up the frame, and out another hole right by the fuel pump.

Ok, I will take your advice on the hump.

Maybe I should run breather extensions? I saw the transfer case breather easily, but didnt really look around for the tranny one. I don't realy intend on going in anything deep enough to cover the stock breathers...but while I'm there?


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Old 05-06-08, 04:02 PM   #452
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Ohhh...I have after market gauges, autogage to be exact. They are not accurate using the stock toyota fuel sender. It reads 3/4 when full, and can run on empty for awhile. I've poked around on the net, and it seems the only way to get right is either use a stock gauge or a sending unit that is in the range of the aftermarket gauge. I'm not sure where I want to go with it...


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Old 05-06-08, 10:12 PM   #453
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Ohhh...I have after market gauges, autogage to be exact. They are not accurate using the stock toyota fuel sender. It reads 3/4 when full, and can run on empty for awhile. I've poked around on the net, and it seems the only way to get right is either use a stock gauge or a sending unit that is in the range of the aftermarket gauge. I'm not sure where I want to go with it...
I had the same problem on my 70 after restoration ran out of gas on Amb Caffery a nice couple gave me a ride to the pump and lent me his can. Still good people in the world. I had to take it back out and cut it to match the length of the factory sender and it was right on. I had the classic autometer set.



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Old 05-06-08, 10:20 PM   #454
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I don't really want to talk about the "starter" problem because it will land me in the Thread of Shame. I'll chalk it up to inexperience.... I understand that happens and you won't forget the nest time

I did get some new fuel line and a filter. The metal fuel line is run up under the truck and comes out kind of by the vents in the apron. I have about 2" of hose coming from the metal line, then the filter, then about 3' that I ran through a hole in the frame, up the frame, and out another hole right by the fuel pump. Good to go

Ok, I will take your advice on the hump. You'll be glad you did

Maybe I should run breather extensions? I saw the transfer case breather easily, but didnt really look around for the tranny one. I don't realy intend on going in anything deep enough to cover the stock breathers...but while I'm there? I always did the axles but not the tranny and tranfer. The tranny is on the very top you'll see it with the hump off and the transfer vent is on top where the shift linkage hooks up on the flat cover. Never heard of anyone getting water in there but I'm sure it can be done I wouldn't think you'd have to worry to much as long as you were moving through the water. Writing this made me think of Badass at the SCC I think thats the deepest I've seen a 40. Waste deep in water with 35's.

For those that weren't there see the yellow 79 at the end.


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Old 05-07-08, 05:48 AM   #455
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"Writing this made me think of Badass at the SCC I think thats the deepest I've seen a 40. Waste deep in water with 35's. "

That's exactly what I was thinking of. I don't think I'll be going through anything that will cover up the floorboard.


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Old 05-08-08, 07:29 AM   #456
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How are Musson Patout's prices? Do they charge shipping on items not in stock?
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Old 05-08-08, 07:38 AM   #457
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Their prices aren't that bad. You could always call cruiserdan on this site to get a good deal on parts. coonass at Toyota of Dallas is helpful too.
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Old 05-08-08, 07:42 AM   #458
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[quote=John S.;3299569]How are Musson Patout's prices? Do they charge shipping on items not in stock?[/quote

No Sir, there is no charge on shipping for ordered parts that are not in stock. Everything I order is not in stock I placed an order with Harold there Tuesday and came in this a.m. they are a pleasure to deal with and with our discount it amounts to the same or less as ordering it somewhere online and then adding the shipping. You can't beat the OEM parts in quality either. They may ask for the account number as he did the other day so have that handy.


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Old 05-08-08, 07:46 AM   #459
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Thanks, plan on doing some work to the power steering. Try to seal up those leaks since it looks like I will be keeping the 4runner.

http://128.83.80.200/taco/box.html
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Old 05-08-08, 08:33 AM   #460
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Thanks, plan on doing some work to the power steering. Try to seal up those leaks since it looks like I will be keeping the 4runner.

http://128.83.80.200/taco/box.html
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Looks fun, good writeups. Keeping the 4-Runner you decided against trying to find an older solid axle?


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Old 05-08-08, 08:40 AM   #461
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Looks fun, good writeups. Keeping the 4-Runner you decided against trying to find an older solid axle?
The one I have is pretty good, its hard to start all over and lose what I have invested so far. Have some money saved up for the SAS, just trying to find an axle now.
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Old 05-08-08, 09:04 AM   #462
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The one I have is pretty good, its hard to start all over and lose what I have invested so far. Have some money saved up for the SAS, just trying to find an axle now.
Gotcha, its a really nice one and one of the nicer ones I've seen in sometime. The addition of the SAS will put it over the top. Add in the locker while you're at it


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Old 05-09-08, 08:47 AM   #463
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[quote=moomtazz;3294378]Last weekend I decided to order the AA twin sticks kit. I was spending way too much time trying to make a homemade one was still looking like a turd.

Anyway, I pulled the seats out and got the tranny hump off, and now I'm trying to think of things I can take care of before i put it back on and the seats back in. Here is what I've thought of, and please speak up if you can think of things I can do.

1. Thinking of cutting the tranny hump to where I can pull it out without removing the seats. I would keep a gap in it and run some T-shaped weatherstripping in between the two pieces. Good idea? or Bad??

x2 on not cutting the hump. Keeping it original is my first reason and secondly 40s are hot enough as it is. Don't need anymore hot air in the cab. It would probably start to leak even with weather stripping. Also the tool box is a great idea. You can use a 3M product called Dual Lock to secure it to the floor. It is like Velcro but super, super strong. I use it a lot in the marine industry and you can hang upside down by the stuff. That way you don't have to put holes in your rig. I know they sell it at West Marine but that place is very expensive. Shop around and I bet you can find it a lot cheaper. I wish I had room under my seats for storage.


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Old 05-09-08, 10:12 AM   #464
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ahh, thanks for the heads up on the Dual lock. I'll look into it. I'm going to put a bench seat in the back also, and possible have storage under it also. Depends on how high/safe having the bench sit on the wheel wells would be.


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Old 05-14-08, 10:20 PM   #465
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I'm about to start work on my front bumper and sliders. Couple of questions.

I am going to use 2" steel tubes for the front bumper and sliders.
What kind of steel (how think) should the plates that attach the sliders/ bumper to the truck be?
What size steel should be on the skid plates?
For bending the steel i was thinking my ol vise and a rubber hammer. maybe a plow torch too.

i have no experience but i would like to do everything but the welds. Have a cousin that is really experienced and he's gonna help me but he wants me to have a lot of it done. and tips, advice or any ol comments?? thanks


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Old 05-14-08, 11:10 PM   #466
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I'm about to start work on my front bumper and sliders. Couple of questions.

I am going to use 2" steel tubes for the front bumper and sliders.
What kind of steel (how think) should the plates that attach the sliders/ bumper to the truck be?
What size steel should be on the skid plates?
For bending the steel i was thinking my ol vise and a rubber hammer. maybe a plow torch too.

i have no experience but i would like to do everything but the welds. Have a cousin that is really experienced and he's gonna help me but he wants me to have a lot of it done. and tips, advice or any ol comments?? thanks
2 things. Forget the thought of a vise and a rubber hammer. I'm no metal magician but any bumper and slider forged with those tools is not going to protect much bud. This is a question for Albert he does some nice work. I would say go 3/16 and 1/4 for the frame base but don't follow my lead I broke mine


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Old 05-15-08, 11:01 AM   #467
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haha i wasn't going to actually use the vise and hammer. but i have no idea how to bend the metal. I would think a machine would have to do it. this next week i am going to make the bumper and skids out of card board and foam so i can see what I'm going. then i will move on to metal.


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Old 05-15-08, 06:39 PM   #468
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I am going to buy these rims. Do i need to buy new lugs too?
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Old 05-15-08, 06:50 PM   #469
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do you have acorn nut ----{lug nut} that is now? if so should be the same.
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Old 05-15-08, 08:59 PM   #470
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these are the lugs i have now, dont know what kind they are, i think they are acorn



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Old 05-15-08, 09:35 PM   #471
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these are the lugs i have now, dont know what kind they are, i think they are acorn
Those will work however if I were you I'd order some new acorn lugnuts that are meant for those wheels. I ordered a bag of them to replace the rusty ones I had and were cheap. Just my .2


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Old 05-16-08, 12:03 AM   #472
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how i know which nuts are made for the wheels? the nuts i have now are in excellent shape, a quarter + 4 are new. none are rusty


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Old 05-16-08, 06:57 AM   #473
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how i know which nuts are made for the wheels? the nuts i have now are in excellent shape, a quarter + 4 are new. none are rusty
The shop you are buying the rims from will know. Its not that yours may be rusty they are made to work with the factory rims. Can you use them yes but just like those are made for the factory rims most AMR are made to work with the standard acorn style nuts.


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Old 05-16-08, 09:13 AM   #474
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rims

there are differences in the cone shape on different rims and so the lug nuts are going to be different to match


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Old 05-16-08, 01:09 PM   #475
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I am going to buy these rims. Do i need to buy new lugs too?
Rock Crawler Series 97
Just ordered some gears and lockers from 4wheel parts, they have good deals. Always call and hagle for a better price.