Tech Questions Here

[Jamco6000]

still running stock sized tires. haven't upgraded yet

[sparkplug]

I don't think they shoud give you any beef then.

[BLKDOG40]

My oil gauge is working but my temperature gauge isn't. I messed with it a bit but decided new gauges would be more accurate so I got a pair of 2 1/16" gauges for water temp & oil pressure.

I am looking for ideas on where to mount them. My '70 FJ40 was easy cause I didn't have a heater unit. On my '75 I have winch panel above the clutch/ brake pedal area (left side) and the heater unit on the right side. The ash tray is 2" and radio slot is over 2". I will need to make a plate to mount in either place. I'd like to take the old crappy radio out, so that might be an option. Proffitt's cruisers makes a nice ash tray plate for switches and I think that spot might work too- I don't want to cut the dash up.

These are the gauges: Auto gage 2326 - Auto gage Analog Gauge Consoles - summitracing.com

I'll try to take some pictures tonight of the dash area

Any suggestions, I'd like to hear them.

[sparkplug]

Originally Posted by BLKDOG40

My oil gauge is working but my temperature gauge isn't. I messed with it a bit but decided new gauges would be more accurate so I got a pair of 2 1/16" gauges for water temp & oil pressure.

I am looking for ideas on where to mount them. My '70 FJ40 was easy cause I didn't have a heater unit. On my '75 I have winch panel above the clutch/ brake pedal area (left side) and the heater unit on the right side. The ash tray is 2" and radio slot is over 2". I will need to make a plate to mount in either place. I'd like to take the old ****py radio out, so that might be an option. Proffitt's cruisers makes a nice ash tray plate for switches and I think that spot might work too- I don't want to cut the dash up.

These are the gauges: Auto gage 2326 - Auto gage Analog Gauge Consoles - summitracing.com

I'll try to take some pictures tonight of the dash area

Any suggestions, I'd like to hear them.

Jason, my temp gauge went out on my 40 and I took the cluster apart and the big round connection port just needed some cleaning and better seating. I have also heard that the factory pins that go into the port are prone to never being fully pressed and crimped in at the factory.

Do you have room under the dash on the right side of the wheel. The area where the factory AC controls are? Mike mounted a diagnostics port there on his old 40 and I think Larry or someone else put some rocker switches there as well.

[BLKDOG40]

I will take a look at the cluster again & make sure the connections are good. I don't have a/c but will snap some pictures tonight, maybe that will get some ideas

[beyondlogic]

Originally Posted by sparkplug

diagnostics port there on his old 40

a diagnostics port on a 40?

[Volunteer]

Originally Posted by sparkplug

Jason, my temp gauge went out on my 40 and I took the cluster apart and the big round connection port just needed some cleaning and better seating. I have also heard that the factory pins that go into the port are prone to never being fully pressed and crimped in at the factory.

Do you have room under the dash on the right side of the wheel. The area where the factory AC controls are? Mike mounted a diagnostics port there on his old 40 and I think Larry or someone else put some rocker switches there as well.

Yep I like the stock gauges but want to add another set for caution will try to fit them in the radio postion I have a plate started with rocker switch for the winch and would like to add another for the factory carb fan and if I can an oil and temp gauge would be nice too

[sparkplug]

Originally Posted by beyondlogic

a diagnostics port on a 40?

Mike switched it over to EFI. Not stock.

[cajun65]

Just asking for someone else (seriously, I'm not considering this as a way to save on fuel expenses...yet). Someone is asking what would be a good diesel engine to throw in a 4Runner to try that veggie oil stuff. Is it possible?

[Jamco6000]

is anyone skilled enough to trim the body mounts on my truck and weld it back up?

here is a thread with what the procedure looks like

Trimming - TTORA Forum

maybe with stronger welds?

[Volunteer]

Originally Posted by Jamco6000

is anyone skilled enough to trim the body mounts on my truck and weld it back up?

here is a thread with what the procedure looks like

Trimming - TTORA Forum

maybe with stronger welds?

I'll trim, Albert can weld

[ruthless79]

Hi i'm new to the club but i am a huge diesel fan it can be done but it depends on the performance you want the 6.2 is a good diesel and it uses all the same mounts as a small block it is a misconception that it was based on a gas 350 but it was not it puts out 143 hp 247 tq you can also use the vw 1.9 and 1.6 acme makes a kit to bolt it to a toyota transmission the 1.9 is 100 hp and 177 tq the 1.6 is less can't remember the Mercedes om616 has been mated to a np435 and the guy has also mated the om617 to np435 Seriestrek - Extreme duty axles the om617 is a great engine but nobody makes an adapter yet 4x4 labs is trying to make a kit there is also the 4bt cumins very heavy lots of power 130 hp 310 tq and isuzu 4BDIT thats the most popular choices hope that helps

[Volunteer]

Originally Posted by ruthless79

Hi i'm new to the club but i am a huge diesel fan it can be done but it depends on the performance you want the 6.2 is a good diesel and it uses all the same mounts as a small block it is a misconception that it was based on a gas 350 but it was not it puts out 143 hp 247 tq you can also use the vw 1.9 and 1.6 acme makes a kit to bolt it to a toyota transmission the 1.9 is 100 hp and 177 tq the 1.6 is less can't remember the Mercedes om616 has been mated to a np435 and the guy has also mated the om617 to np435 Seriestrek - Extreme duty axles the om617 is a great engine but nobody makes an adapter yet 4x4 labs is trying to make a kit there is also the 4bt cumins very heavy lots of power 130 hp 310 tq and isuzu 4BDIT thats the most popular choices hope that helps

Your input is always welcome bud.

[AVLFRK]

I was wondering, based on the attached picture, if
1.) the rear shackles are inverted
2.) is there an easy way to fix
3.) would somone do this on purpose?
4.) if i were to fix (by jacking and hoping it corrects itself, prying it back), would it cause damage to the axle, drivetrain, etc
5.) would this correct a really rough ride?

Thanks Y'all

[cajun65]

Originally Posted by AVLFRK

I was wondering, based on the attached picture, if
1.) the rear shackles are inverted
2.) is there an easy way to fix
3.) would somone do this on purpose?
4.) if i were to fix (by jacking and hoping it corrects itself, prying it back), would it cause damage to the axle, drivetrain, etc
5.) would this correct a really rough ride?

Thanks Y'all

That doesn't look good. Can you give some details on how you think this happened?

Have you tried to jack it up yet? That would be my first suggestion if you haven't. I would definitely say that will effect the ride comfort of your rig too.

Prying it down won't hurt the axle or anything else. Just make sure you have the wheels chocked and the truck on safe and stable jack stands.

[Volunteer]

1.) the rear shackles are inverted. Yes, not good
2.) is there an easy way to fix. For the time being jack the truck up and pry them right. Did this happen by putting the suspenion in a bind? What caused it? If it happens again your solution is cutting the perch then moving it to correct the angle and welding it in place. The springs, just the tiny bit I see look very worn I'd suggest new springs if you have alot of sagging in them and then you can leave the hangers in the stock position. If you were thinking of a lift now is a good time if you're not in to that look up your local spring shop and have them repair or duplicate the stockers and order some new poly bushing while you're at it and you'll be set for awhile.
3.) would somone do this on purpose? Not if you had any sense.
4.) if i were to fix (by jacking and hoping it corrects itself, prying it back), would it cause damage to the axle, drivetrain, etc. No covered that above.
5.) would this correct a really rough ride? Yes with the shackle inverted its bottomed out against the frame not allowing the shackle to travel creating a jarring or bouncy ride

Thanks Y'all, you're welcome let us know how it goes.

[Colicious]

just for a double check: does flipping the springs to lengthen the wheel base work the same in a spring under with lift springs as a SOA with stock springs?

[Jamco6000]

question about backspaces

i hear people having rubbing problems with 4.5 inch backspace and not with 4 inch, but the rims i am looking at have 5 inch backspace, is the bigger the backspace the further it sticks out?

[Doable]

example 15x8 with 5" back spacing will stick the tire out the fender a little.


15x8 with 3" back spacing will stick the tire out the fenders alot putting it away from suspension components but will put the tires closer to the sheet metal when they are at full turn.

[Jamco6000]

Originally Posted by Doable

example 15x8 with 5" back spacing will stick the tire out the fender a little.


15x8 with 3" back spacing will stick the tire out the fenders alot putting it away from suspension components but will put the tires closer to the sheet metal when they are at full turn.

thanks that answered my question, that sucks cause the cheap rims i found on jegs wont works.. oh well... back to the drawing board

[beyondlogic]

speaking of back spacing anyone know the factory backspacing for my 89 pickup?

[BLKDOG40]

Originally Posted by BLKDOG40

My oil gauge is working but my temperature gauge isn't. I messed with it a bit but decided new gauges would be more accurate so I got a pair of 2 1/16" gauges for water temp & oil pressure.

I am looking for ideas on where to mount them. My '70 FJ40 was easy cause I didn't have a heater unit. On my '75 I have winch panel above the clutch/ brake pedal area (left side) and the heater unit on the right side. The ash tray is 2" and radio slot is over 2". I will need to make a plate to mount in either place. I'd like to take the old crappy radio out, so that might be an option. Proffitt's cruisers makes a nice ash tray plate for switches and I think that spot might work too- I don't want to cut the dash up.

These are the gauges: Auto gage 2326 - Auto gage Analog Gauge Consoles - summitracing.com

I'll try to take some pictures tonight of the dash area

Any suggestions, I'd like to hear them.

I decided on using the radio hole. I think it turned out pretty nice. There was no cutting or grinding on the dash- all I did was gently bend the radio knob tabs back, which could be bent back into shape if ever needed. I want to change the screws to something a little more trick, like security torx bolts. I made a template & may make more to put sell on mud eventually.



All buttoned up- gauges in & heater bolted back in



You can see how long the temperature gauge sensor is. On the left is the fitting that Paul fixed the threads on, which is threaded into the stock sensor fitting, which is threaded into the head. I have another stock temp sensor in the head, which I may get working eventually but for now I am going to wrap some insulation around this new one and call it good...



I'm still not driving the cruiser around regularly. I'm still going over it, making sure stuff is up to snuff. It's stuttering under load, body is bouncing on the frame (body mounts are shot in the back), etc.

Slowly getting there

[Volunteer]

Originally Posted by BLKDOG40

I decided on using the radio hole. I think it turned out pretty nice. There was no cutting or grinding on the dash- all I did was gently bend the radio knob tabs back, which could be bent back into shape if ever needed. I want to change the screws to something a little more trick, like security torx bolts. I made a template & may make more to put sell on mud eventually.



All buttoned up- gauges in & heater bolted back in



You can see how long the temperature gauge sensor is. On the left is the fitting that Paul fixed the threads on, which is threaded into the stock sensor fitting, which is threaded into the head. I have another stock temp sensor in the head, which I may get working eventually but for now I am going to wrap some insulation around this new one and call it good...



I'm still not driving the cruiser around regularly. I'm still going over it, making sure stuff is up to snuff. It's stuttering under load, body is bouncing on the frame (body mounts are shot in the back), etc.

Slowly getting there

Looks good bud, what kind of gauges did you use?

[BLKDOG40]

Originally Posted by Volunteer

Looks good bud, what kind of gauges did you use?

Thanks! Autogage, maybe someday I'll step up to something nicer but it'll work for now.

I got my ford shock towers ordered yesterday. I am bolting them on since I am probably eventually going to flip the front springs & will need to move the towers.

[Volunteer]

Originally Posted by BLKDOG40

Thanks! Autogage, maybe someday I'll step up to something nicer but it'll work for now.

I got my ford shock towers ordered yesterday. I am bolting them on since I am probably eventually going to flip the front springs & will need to move the towers.

You ought to start a thread with all the work you're doing so we can see the before and after improvements you're making.

Think I'm going to go with the Stewart Waner gauges in the 78 like I had in the Evo. I had them mounted in the radio spot using this din panel below. Looking at yours you can only fit 2 gauges because the factory radio spot is not a full din.



Gauges.
Stewart Warner Gauges

[BLKDOG40]

I thought about starting my own build thread but worried Scott would delete it due to inactivity (just kidding Scott ). I'll get something going when I install the shock towers & shocks.

[Volunteer]

Originally Posted by BLKDOG40

I thought about starting my own build thread but worried Scott would delete it due to inactivity (just kidding Scott ). I'll get something going when I install the shock towers & shocks.

Nah! I'd put it back. I'd encourage all of us that are doing work to start build threads. It gives other ideas and help with their projects. I for one enjoy seeing the progress on everyone's rig and I know the other folks on MUD do as well. I see folks all the time checking out Ricardo's thread and Scott's thread. I look forward to seeing it bud.

[PScottBx]

Originally Posted by BLKDOG40

I thought about starting my own build thread but worried Scott would delete it due to inactivity (just kidding Scott ). I'll get something going when I install the shock towers & shocks.

LOL>.... you suck

I'm not sure any thread is more inactive than mine...

[moomtazz]

Last weekend I decided to order the AA twin sticks kit. I was spending way too much time trying to make a homemade one was still looking like a turd.

Anyway, I pulled the seats out and got the tranny hump off, and now I'm trying to think of things I can take care of before i put it back on and the seats back in. Here is what I've thought of, and please speak up if you can think of things I can do.

1. Thinking of cutting the tranny hump to where I can pull it out without removing the seats. I would keep a gap in it and run some T-shaped weatherstripping in between the two pieces. Good idea? or Bad??

2. Reverse switch. I moved the rubber cover off of it and it looks like the wires going to the terminals are frayed. I didn't get a chance to test for continuity. I'll try to solder them and see if it works.

3. Twin sticks

4. Maybe get a under-driver seat storage box.

[Volunteer]

Last weekend I decided to order the AA twin sticks kit. I was spending way too much time trying to make a homemade one was still looking like a turd.

Anyway, I pulled the seats out and got the tranny hump off, and now I'm trying to think of things I can take care of before i put it back on and the seats back in. Here is what I've thought of, and please speak up if you can think of things I can do.

1. Thinking of cutting the tranny hump to where I can pull it out without removing the seats. I would keep a gap in it and run some T-shaped weatherstripping in between the two pieces. Good idea? or Bad?? Noooooooooo! not a fan of cutting them besides you should never have to go back in there again. I've found most of the times with the exception of the transfer shifter I was able to do everything I needed to do without taking it off. Including getting to the top two tranny bolts out.

2. Reverse switch. I moved the rubber cover off of it and it looks like the wires going to the terminals are frayed. I didn't get a chance to test for continuity. I'll try to solder them and see if it works. If not repairable try grabbing one off of one of the rigs they are parting in the classifieds. I remember buying an OEM one and it not being cheap.

3. Twin sticks Sure

4. Maybe get a under-driver seat storage box Sure would be nice.

5. Check for leaks on the PTO cover drivers side at angle, and rear output cover at the top of the tranfer bubbled looking if leaking a good time to replace the gaskets. I just ordered them from Musson for the 67 and both were cheap. The tranfercase was just rebuilt a couple years ago so probably is good.

How did the starter job turn out?

Its also a good time to run some new fuel line through the hole in the floor through pass frame up to the front like it was from factory .

My .2