Local Snorkel Install

[Scott_sFZJ80]

I know that it’s been covered in other write ups but I had a few ideas that I would like to share. The Safari Snorkel is a nice product but I’m guessing that the company figures that the typical customer will take a few liberties on the install because the instructions were pretty bare. Also, they could have come up with a better place for the a-pillar bottom mounting hole.

[Scott_sFZJ80]

Step 1:
Remove air filter box (and associated duct work), front right turn signal, cruise control and drop antenna. Be sure to cover/block intake because there will be metal flakes flying around.

[Scott_sFZJ80]

Step 2:
Carefully place provided template and tape to fender. Mark holes, remove template, check against snorkel (do a lot of checking and re-checking).

[Scott_sFZJ80]

Step 3:
Center punch all marks made on the fender. Drill a small pilot hole for the “big hole”. Tape the area around the pilot hole and poke out the tape at the small hole. Hold your breath and drill the big three and a half inch hole in the side of your rig! De burr around the hole and paint the bare metal (if time allows let the paint on this hole dry over night).

[Scott_sFZJ80]

Step 4:
Drill a small hole at all other marks on the fender. Use a step drill to increase each hole to the proper dimension. Side note: not a big deal but take note that the furthest hole forward for some reason is smaller than the rest. De burr around all the holes and paint the bare metal (you most likely won’t have to de burr much if you are using a step drill).

[Scott_sFZJ80]

Step 5:
Screw in the studs to the snorkel (use a little thread lock to secure the stud to the snorkel). Connect the upper mounting bracket to the snorkel (no thread lock, you are going to have to remove it again). Place the snorkel onto the fender and mark the upper bracket on the A-Pillar. Remove snorkel and remove upper mounting bracket from snorkel. Place upper mounting bracket to A-Pillar and finish marking holes for drilling.

[Scott_sFZJ80]

Step 6:
Center punch marks on A-Pillar. Drill small holes at each mark. Side note: be careful with the bottom (or lowest) hole, this hole needs to penetrate but stop just after due to an obstruction behind the exterior sheet metal. Step drill the holes only enough to get a small file in hole to square it off. The plastic body clips are square and are going to require some precise filing to fit properly.

[Scott_sFZJ80]

Step 7:
Paint holes in A-Pillar and allow to dry. Paint sides of plastic body clips and place in A-Pillar holes while wet. This theory is to help seal the hole from moisture getting into the A-Pillar.

[Scott_sFZJ80]

Step 8:
On the big hole take a length of small vacuum hose and cut a slit down the length of it. Place the hose around the big hole to help reduce the tolerance and assist in sealing from the outside.

[Scott_sFZJ80]

Step 9:
Attach upper mounting bracket to A-Pillar. Attach snorkel to fender with supplied hardware. Reattach upper mounting bracket to snorkel.

[Scott_sFZJ80]

Step 10:
Install supplied hose and clamps to snorkel and fit air filter box, reattach air filter box to mounting points (along with associated duct work). Reattach front right turn signal, cruise control and antenna. Mount and secure air ram assembly to snorkel.

[Scott_sFZJ80]

Ending notes and credits:
Thanks to Cruiserdan, he was calling me back regarding a part order while I was in the shop during the snorkel install and recommended dropping the cruise control and antenna (and not the rubber grommet), it helped out a lot.

Most recommended tool… step drill. If you don’t have one I suggest investing in one, makes for very clean and easy holes.

Use touch up paint, supposedly it holds less moisture than primer making it a little more resistant to rusting.

Take your time and keep checking and re-checking at every step.

Use a 3 ½” drill bit, I toyed with idea of some other sizes because the snorkel inlet hole isn’t that big but with the vacuum hose it fits perfectly.

Directions call for the removal of side marker light (JDM marker lights), I have these and found no need to remove it.

[Gumby]

After removing the fender for rust repair under the flares, I wonder if it would be easier to drop the fender for this job.


Nice write up. Are you sick of the questions yet?

[Scott_sFZJ80]

Originally Posted by Gumby

After removing the fender for rust repair under the flares, I wonder if it would be easier to drop the fender for this job.


Nice write up. Are you sick of the questions yet?

Interesting, Cruiserdan said the same thing… well… not about the rust. He mentioned that he needs to replace his windshield and was toying with the idea of just removing the fender.

Thanks, I have only had it on a week and I can’t believe the looks that it receives. Since my rig is dark green I thought it wouldn’t get much attention. I love look that it has, I have always admired the contrast that you rig has with the black on white.

[Biff]

Good wirte up.

If I had to do mine again I would have dropped the fender would have made it alot easier to reach that last inner screw. I ended up using nutserts for my a-piller, better quality that the plastic things Safari provides.

[alia176]

I'm loosely thinking of coming up with my own snorkel but need to drop the fender. Is this a one banana job? Any gotchas?

Ali

[Gumby]

One Banana. two bolts on the flare then wiggle the flare around (post 95) until it pops out. The bolts across the top and a few across the bottom. Two, IIRC in the door jam. The inner fender well is sealed to the fender with some super secret goop.

It is easy to break off the lower fender bolts if they rusted.

I think it's worth it to check for rust under the flares.