Need help with my FJ40/Mechanic in Chicago - Page 2

PhilC64 · 10-19-09, 10:16 PM

I may be old and cantankerous but I'll never do brunch!

Eric you scored a pretty damn nice cruiser that has had a lot of work done to it! From the pics I can see you have the following.

F motor with possibly a Weber 38 carb with washable air cleaner.
GM Saginaw Power steering conversion.
GM Alternator conversion, 1 wire unit maybe? I could be wrong. 12SI High output?
Disc Brake conversion. Probably mini/60 series rotors and calipers up front and GM's in the rear.
High Steer setup possibly from 4x4 Labs. Drool!
Anti-wrap bar on the rear axle
Double Cardin rear drive shaft.
You seem to be missing the front drive shaft. Did one come with the truck?

Overall a very nice setup!!!!

Now here's what I want you to do. In the pic below you'll see a tube circled in red. Follow that to where it ends. Is your leak coming from there?

PhilC64 · 10-19-09, 10:31 PM

If that leak is coming from that hose I circled, you can get a factory coolant overflow bottle and cap. You can get a used one from either Marks Off Road Home Page or SOR Specter Off-Road Land Cruiser Parts - Page 054 Cooling System

Either one should have it and it's a breeze to install.

edin351 · 10-20-09, 07:25 AM

I do think thats where the leak is coming from. I will look into getting that bottle.

Two more things:

1. The alternator is currently not working, so I hope and pray it cranks each time I start it. I drove 8 hours with the speakers turned up and the headlights on, so it worked then...but now it won't charge the battery. PhilC64-- this is maybe something you could help me out with when you come to check it out.

2. Like i said, the mechanics said that the front diff has a lot of play in it...but I guess I can't confirm this until I throw the driveshaft on and actually try it right? The previous owner said that he put an Aussie Locker in there so every part should be new. Is this true?

Thanks!

4rnr · 10-20-09, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edin351

2. Like i said, the mechanics said that the front diff has a lot of play in it...but I guess I can't confirm this until I throw the driveshaft on and actually try it right? The previous owner said that he put an Aussie Locker in there so every part should be new. Is this true?

Thanks!

My guess is the person who installed the locker doesnt understand backlash. You can get under the truck and rotate the pinion flange, and tell us how many degrees of rotation you get til it stops in each direction (just a rough estimate). Remember to lock the hubs first.

Lynchmobracing · 10-20-09, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edin351

Ok thanks!! Is it easy to install an overflow bottle?

I'm glad I joined this thread because they are definitely leaning more towards keeping the truck,

I'm really happy about that, I love it.

An overflow bottle can be about as simple or difficult as you want it to be. All it is basically is a container that should hold probably about at least a pint to a quart (or more) of fluid and you connect it to the overflow hose coming off the nipple on your radiator filler neck. This hose should either connect to the bottom of the bottle or if it goes in the top it should extend all the way to the bottom. The purpose is to catch the coolant escaping the radiator when it overflows, and at the same time it will draw some of the coolant back in if it needs it (that's why the hose must extend to the bottom of the bottle). I've seen guys use something as simple as a litre water bottle with a hose stuck in it, or something as elaborate as a polished billet cylinder. And you are not looking to seal it up tight, the bottle needs to be able to breathe. If I were you I'd grab a bottle of water (or beer

), drink it, and stick that hose in it (all the way to the bottom) and see if that solves the problem. Also, the bottle should be lower than the top of the radiator. Set it wherever it will stay put, or wire tie it, or whatever works. Hope this makes sense.

Lynchmobracing · 10-20-09, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edin351

I do think thats where the leak is coming from. I will look into getting that bottle.

Two more things:

1. The alternator is currently not working, so I hope and pray it cranks each time I start it. I drove 8 hours with the speakers turned up and the headlights on, so it worked then...but now it won't charge the battery. PhilC64-- this is maybe something you could help me out with when you come to check it out. Thanks!

That looks like a standard 10/12SI GM alternator, very inexpensive if it is bad. Do you have a test light or voltmeter? First off, back-alley test: Start the truck, and with it running disconnect the negative battery cable. If the truck still runs, alternator is OK. If it dies: Reconnect neg. cable. Check to see if you have approx. 12 volts (or a brite test light bulb) at the large "BAT lug" on the back of alternator. If not, you have a wire that has lost its connection. If that's OK, then check the terminals on that 2-wire plug on the side of the alternator. One of them (number "2") should also have approx. 12 volts (or a brite test light bulb). If not, you have a wire that has lost its connection. See if this helps.

4rnr · 10-20-09, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lynchmobracing

First off, back-alley test: Start the truck, and with it running disconnect the negative battery cable. If the truck still runs, alternator is OK. If it dies: Reconnect neg. cable.

Adding a disclaimer. Ive read discussions about this method and there are mixed reviews on how safe it is for the vehicles electrical system. IIRC it may be ok on old vehicles, but doing it to a newer vehicle can cause damage (to the alternator if I remember correctly) I read it a while ago so I could be mistaken. I believe the thread was on Pirate4x4.

BTW "easy" way I check an alternator is to turn the vehicle to "on" and note the voltage guage (if the 40 doesnt have one you can use a volt meter on the batt.) Then start the vehicle and if the voltage goes up slightly the alt may be good. If it stays the same it may be bad. Also check all the connections.

Goebeler · 10-20-09, 10:04 AM

if the alt is fried, I may have an extra one sitting on the shelf you can have.
have yours tested at napa or carquest. They will do it for you and then you can be sure that is the issue.

goebs

Gumby · 10-20-09, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4rnr

Adding a disclaimer. Ive read discussions about this method and there are mixed reviews on how safe it is for the vehicles electrical system. IIRC it may be ok on old vehicles, but doing it to a newer vehicle can cause damage (to the alternator if I remember correctly) I read it a while ago so I could be mistaken. I believe the thread was on Pirate4x4.

BTW "easy" way I check an alternator is to turn the vehicle to "on" and note the voltage guage (if the 40 doesnt have one you can use a volt meter on the batt.) Then start the vehicle and if the voltage goes up slightly the alt may be good. If it stays the same it may be bad. Also check all the connections.

It is very bad for the alternator and any computer controlled parts to pull a battery wire off of a running car. A FJ40 doesn't have too many parts that would be hurt by a voltage spike, but it's not a good thing to do to the alternator.

The battery should have 12-12.6V at rest and 13.5-14.7V while running.

Lynchmobracing · 10-20-09, 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4rnr

Adding a disclaimer. Ive read discussions about this method and there are mixed reviews on how safe it is for the vehicles electrical system. IIRC it may be ok on old vehicles, but doing it to a newer vehicle can cause damage (to the alternator if I remember correctly) I read it a while ago so I could be mistaken.

Yeah, these guys are right, I probably should have put a disclaimer in there besides just calling it a "back-alley" method. I wouldn't recommend doing it on a newer computer controlled vehicle, though I'm not afraid to do it on old stuff, including my FJ40.

But is definitely "back alley", not the correct way to do it.

However, if you are leery of "testing" it that way, you can still do the other tests for voltage that I detailed, and if either one of those comes up bad that will be at least part of your charging issue - if not the whole problem. And they are tests easily done without removing the alternator.

edin351 · 10-20-09, 07:52 PM

OK I can grab a voltmeter from my physics lab tomorrow and test out some stuff. How do I hook up the voltmeter?

Gumby · 10-21-09, 04:59 AM

red on positive. black on negative. 0-20 volt range if it's not an auto ranging voltmeter.

edin351 · 10-22-09, 04:34 PM

Hey everyone,

Sorry I haven't responded to everyone's posts trying to help me, I've been really busy applying to colleges, I just got my early action school application out a few days ago, a huge stress relief!

Anyway, I hooked up a voltmeter to the batt today and sure enough... it read 12.55 at rest and 14.66 when running. Looks like I have an okay alternator.

I will check out the play in the front locker this weekend hopefully and get back to you, 4rnr.

So today it rained and when I came out from school to the car, there was a large spot of colorful water underneath the truck and so I think I have another leak somewhere... I took pictures of it when I got home because it was leaking a lot then too. they're up on my photobucket, the ones of the wet driveway. It was hard to get an angle that showed the color, but I smelled it and couldn't smell anything...but it may have been too diluted to tell. It seems to be coming from behind the engine, around the trans or something. Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks!

edin351 · 10-22-09, 04:35 PM

Link to my photobucket:

Pictures by edin351 - Photobucket

4rnr · 10-22-09, 04:43 PM

I looked into it and there is a way you can turn your land cruiser into a land cruiser, that wont give you problems, and will be a "reliable" daily driver.

trade

PhilC64 · 10-22-09, 05:53 PM

Usually its a petroleum product that leaves rainbows in the driveway. Could be oil or gear lube. Could also be from another car that was parked there or the oil could be leaching from the asphalt. Wait until the weather dries out before you crawl under it and check for leaks.

I have to admit, the more I look at John's 62 the more I like it. It's just too dang pretty.

4rnr · 10-22-09, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PhilC64

Could also be from another car that was parked there or the oil could be leaching from the asphalt. Wait until the weather dries out before you crawl under it and check for leaks.

Hmmm so now I know why your shit is always broke and takes for ever to get fixed....

4rnr · 10-22-09, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PhilC64

I have to admit, the more I look at John's 62 the more I like it. It's just too dang pretty.

on new 31's now

Hondo352 · 10-22-09, 06:33 PM

Phil when you see my 60 you will come back to reality

thats if I ever get it functional

edin351 · 10-22-09, 07:55 PM

ok back to some serious questions

The other day the wiper motor blew and then today I tried to hook up the speakers that were in there (I took them out so they couldn't get stolen) but the amp wasn't getting any power. Could it have someting to do with the fuse? How can I fix this?

Gumby · 10-22-09, 07:59 PM

Take your volt meter, ground the negative lead, put the positive lead on each side of each fuse in the holder under the dash. If the fuse has power to one side and only one side of the fuse it's bad.

No power to either side of the fuse means it's not being used. I think the w/s wiper fuse is only powered when the wiper switch is on, but it's been a while since I checked.

You still might have a bad diode in your alternator, but it's likely that it works.

An aftermarket amp hooked up improperly is a very frequent cause for a battery drain.

PhilC64 · 10-22-09, 08:02 PM

Where's the pics of the 60 Hondo? Neither you or Shawn have posted pics yet. Get it going so you can do TFT at the Badlands. I'll be there with or without a cruiser. It's definitely a heck of a good time!

I need a good week off just so I can get all my junk fixed. I have this weekend to work on the 40. That'll be enough to get the motor in and going if all goes as planned. My 62 is sidelined until I get the new/used trans for it. That should hopefully only be a couple of weeks. I have a trans lined up, just need to line up the coin for it.

PhilC64 · 10-22-09, 08:08 PM

Eric when you say blown wiper motor, do you mean the fuse is blowing or the motor starts smoking? If it's the fuse that keeps blowing that's a bit better than a fried wiper motor. You also might want to chase down the wiring for your amp. Could your amp be wired into the wiper circuit causing it to blow the fuse?

Hondo352 · 10-22-09, 08:18 PM

I got a 3 week lay-off again starting today so I should have some free time to get my intake done. My 60 looks like Johns 62 only not as nice

Gumby · 10-23-09, 05:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PhilC64

Eric when you say blown wiper motor, do you mean the fuse is blowing or the motor starts smoking? If it's the fuse that keeps blowing that's a bit better than a fried wiper motor. You also might want to chase down the wiring for your amp. Could your amp be wired into the wiper circuit causing it to blow the fuse?

I'm pretty sure it means it quit working and he has no idea why.

PhilC64 · 10-23-09, 05:48 AM

I figured the same thing.

edin351 · 10-23-09, 05:51 AM

Yupp you guys are right... I'm really sorry I know so little about this stuff...please be patient

But it didn't smoke, it just popped then stopped working.

chitown40 · 10-23-09, 09:07 AM

I'm not so sure this is the right truck for you. I'm with John on this one.

How bout you trade me for this:

4rnr · 10-23-09, 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PhilC64

You also might want to chase down the wiring for your amp. Could your amp be wired into the wiper circuit causing it to blow the fuse?

Jesus you have a twisted mind...Though I guess i have seen scarier wiring jobs.

Amp wiring....

Should be on ITS OWN LEAD at least 8ga. (even for the smallest amps) there MUST be a fuse in line right off the batt. The ground can be body ground and make sure its a GOOD ground (atleast the same gauge as the hot). amps require a good path cause even the small ones can pull 30 amps. You also need a 12v trigger, I recomend finding one that works off the ignition so you dont have to install a switch, that you will for get to turn off and drain your batt. Check the RCA's and the speaker lines. Is the amp in "protect"? Ahh car audio....

Im board this morning.

4rnr · 10-23-09, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edin351

ok back to some serious questions

Dr.Evil Voice** I dont think I like your insulant tone.. Dr.Evil Voice Off***

Hey we reserve the right nose dive this thread into a sea of nothing, or homo-eroticy, or just good ol phil bashing....

Besides, not sure ive heard a "serious question" here yet.