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#31 |
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IH8MUD Regular
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: So Cal
Posts: 451
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Started with a Sentry....filled it up
Upgraded to a Browning.....almost full.... What's next????? I really like the Browning although it was almost 2k. I put my better firearms in the Browning. __________________ FJ60 @ 144k, Conferr roof rack, brush guard, PIAA driving lights, rear sway bar, hella horn, Beedon sliders, OME Dakar suspension, Mean Green Alternator. red top Optima |
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#32 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 74
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Look at Fort Knox also.
I really wish I purchased the taller model because it filled up quickly. Over 1400 lbs empty, double steel walls with fire proofing between layers. Placed down stairs against concrete outside wall. I am 10 yards from fire hydrant in a suburban environment. Feel very confident that with fire rating and location in house the contents will be fine in any fire. Do a lot of research and determine your needs, I kind of feel "safes" come in levels. Once you put a dial or electronic lock on a steel box they are being called safes. That is a load of crap. Then you move to the companies that put a "heavy" door with a couple of locking rods attached to the handle on the same steel box, still a load of crap. You can tell this when they are on the pallet or just empty, swing the door open and see what percentage of the total weight is the door. They will also tell you fire proffed by adding just a door seal and insulation in the door area. You should also condsider the safes ability to withstand drilling, many of the "safes" do not have designs to prevent drilling of a lock rods on the door. Others place the inner walls near the locking rods at angles to the outer wall and rods, imagine going through a thick out wall of steel to hit a 14 or 16 guage steel line at a 45 degree angle and try to dril it. This may not be as important in the grab and go but would be for a more remote location. Consider the need for reset and reinforced doors, this eliminates the ability to pry the door edges. The next step would be to ensure corner locking rods to prevent the ability to pry even further. Also consider the lock, electronic, tumbler, or even the style tumbler that you must align all the combination, then move back to zero and push the dial. This decreases the ability for a automated dialer to access the safe. Locksmiths and really good theives have these. In the end you get what you pay for, just make sure you paid enough for what you need or you will regret the money you spent. If you determine you safe was not good enough it is usually after the bad things have happend and you lost it all. __________________ Scott C.Simmons Annandale Va 1993 FZJ80 ZBIGDOG 1972 FJ40 Rustydog:Built F,IPOR installed Weber,header, custom stainless exhaust, 4speed, toybox, 3 speed transfer case, belly pan, disc brakes, 80 series locker front, Detriot in a rear full floater, SOA. |
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#33 |
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IH8MUD Junior
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I bought a Liberty Safe 'Presidential' model 40 cf size this year. Had it installed in garage and bolted to the floor. I got a decent deal at the sportsmen's expo here in the bay area. Safe weighs about 1300 pounds so, I don't think its going anywhere. After tax, delivery, install total price was about 5k. My best friend also has a liberty safe Lincoln model 35 cf size. I dont have quite enough stuff to fill, but i can grow into it nicely.
__________________ 1997 Lexus LX450 /w stuff TLCA 3078 |
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#34 |
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IH8MUD Regular
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: CA Bay Area
Posts: 446
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Try one of these Nat. Very well secured and you can bolt them down. Not as thick and impregnable as a safe, but the next best thing for the budget.
KNAACK L.L.C. - KNAACK Jobsite Storage Chests __________________ Why do I have to press "1" for English? |
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#35 |
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IH8MUD Addict
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 997
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I would weigh what I was thinking about storing in it heavily. A few cheap guns; buy a cheap safe. Guns you don't want to lose, photos and documents, priceless. Step up to a better safe. I have a Browning that weighs about 1500 pounds. I have had it for a long time and I know their warranty has been downgraded over the years ( if mine is damaged, they will replace it) but it was the best I could afford at the time.
Think about the "what if's" and decide accordingly. If you spend $500 and end up losing everything, how much would you have paid to have kept it? __________________ Steve '97 LX 450 with Slee 6", 35" Toyo's, Slee front, 4X4 Labs rear, Hanna sliders, 5.29's, front and rear chromoly axles and the two Dober's: Zeus and Zoey |
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#36 |
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IH8MUD Junior
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Fresno
Posts: 104
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You won't be disappointed with Liberty safe. My dad has one not sure what the model is but the it is the flex collecter setup. I would not hesitate to purchase onther Liberty safe.
![]() ![]() The flex collector does not have the middle shelf. |
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#37 |
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IH8MUD Regular
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Houston
Posts: 237
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I have a Champion which is now too small and a Zanotti on order. Armor, Zanotti Armor, Safes
The Zanotti can be broken down for movement and assembled in your choice location that a normal large safe wouldn't have fit in due to doorways that would have to be removed... Plus it's easy to move if you have to relocate. The Champion CH-30 or 25 is a massive chunk of steel but is now full, one scoped rifle eats up A LOT of room... __________________ '94 FZJ80: Pioneer 880PRS, TS-A1672R F&R. '01 CBR600F4i '01 Giant NRS1 '02 VW Golf TDI '03 KFX400 (MX stuffed) |
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#38 |
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IH8MUD Regular
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Georgia
Posts: 213
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I bought a large liberty safe.
Love it, Even though it is now too small. I will soon have 2 of the same safe. Good fire rating, roomy, lots of lock bars top-bottom-sides. If you are married your wife will fill it up pretty good. With pics and jewelry. |
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