Steering failure

tonyota · 10-05-07, 05:18 PM

Had a blast at the Hoosier Hoe Down.

On my way home I noticed my steering was a bit loose.

Drove it all the way home cause I couldn't find anything wrong. Then Johnny noticed I a major failure of a stock part.

I know we discussed the importance of good steering around the camp fire. Now, with the help of Carl at Outback Off Road, I will have an all new Cross-over High-steering kit to install in just a few days.

Guess the double transfer cases will have to wait a bit longer.

Also, we got Johnnys 40 out on the road!

We did a disc brake conversion and are having a few line pressure issues.

Any sugestions? We used a mini truck master cylinder. There are no leaks, but we have to pump the brakes to get good pedal. Other than that, we have been enjoying driving it around.

Maybe we will all get a chance to see it at the next event. Look forward to Toys for Tots. Later. Tony. (please excuse my excessive use of smilies

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toyman317 · 10-06-07, 11:58 AM

Sounds like you still might have air in the lines.

tonyota · 10-06-07, 04:52 PM

I know. We bled the system like 4 times. If you pump the pedal it comes up ok, then it stays up for a while. But after it sets for 15 minutes or so it goes back down. When it's down, it still has front brakes. But no rears. If you pump it up and drive in stop and go traffic, the brakes start to drag like it is holding them on. After a while (15 minutes or so) the pedal goes back down. We used a mini truck power brake master cylinder, with out the booster. Ran one line to the rears, and one line to the fronts. Do we need a proportioner (sp) valve? Where in the system? Thanks, Tony.

zebrabeefj40 · 10-06-07, 08:59 PM

Sounds like 2 problems to me.

First issue is the length of the pushrod coming out of the booster into the back of the master. If the brakes are "holding on" while driving around town then the rod is too long and needs to be adjusted shorter.

Second is if the brakes "pump up" then I'll bet there is either still air in the system or the rear brakes need adjusted. You say you did a disk brake conversion: which axle did you convert? Front or rear? If you converted the front drums to disk then I'm pretty sure the rear drums need adjusted (BTDT...). If you converted the rear you might just need a residual valve in the rear circuit to keep the pads closer to the disks. Need to know the year of the 40 to know a little more about what you're working on.

Nick

tonyota · 10-12-07, 03:46 PM

The FJ40 is a 1969. We did a front disc conversion. We rebuilt the right side rear wheel cylinders, but not the left side. The left side seemed to be working fine, the right side was leaking. We have been trying to get the legnth of the rod just right. It should be just touching the plunger in the master cylinder, right? Thanks for the reply, any more help would be, well, helpful. Tony.

zebrabeefj40 · 10-12-07, 04:20 PM

On the pushrod: it should be just NOT touching the piston of the master cylinder. IIRC there should be about .030" clearance between the two.

I'd also bet you need to adjust the rear shoes closer to the drums. On my 40's I could tell the rears needed adjusted by where the pedal was. When all was working good the brakes could toss you through the windshield if you jammed on them.

Nick

tonyota · 10-31-07, 08:45 AM

Thanks for the input. We double checked it all. Set the push rod as you suggested, re-adjusted both rear sets of shoes the same. Bled it all again, for good measure. And the end result is good pedal and great brakes. Awesome. I am no slouch in the garage, if I do say so myself, but I always seem to have problems with hydraulic (sp) systems. And carbureators (sp) . And spelling. Thanks again for your much appreciated assistance. Tony.

zebrabeefj40 · 10-31-07, 03:21 PM

Glad to hear it worked out for you!

Nick