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Old 07-08-06, 02:48 PM   #61
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Linked full frame, mostly full boddied fj40..


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Old 07-08-06, 05:42 PM   #62
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23" is LOW!


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Old 07-12-06, 07:08 PM   #63
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I've been busy!

Ok...I've got my upper link welded to the bushings....I'm waiting on the tubing to come back from the threading guy. It should be here tomorrow. I want to try and get the upper link done and finished tomorrow night.



After I got that to a point where I couldn't continue(due to the threaded end) I started wire wheeling the rear axle and the diff so I could paint it and get it finished.




Once that was done I reinstalled the rear 3rd and painted it. I shot a good coat of rustolem and then some gloss black.







I've decided that I don't want to use an electric motor for the e-locker. I want a cable locker and I like to do build things on my own(aka cheap) I have a 2x6x1 piece of aluminum coming to make the base for my cable locker. I found a bolt(toyota genuine ) that is the exact same size that I need to run as the "actuator"....I promise, it'll work


I'm going on vacation this Friday and I won't be back until next Sunday . You can find my happy ass soaking up the rays in N. Myrtle Beach!


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Old 07-13-06, 03:47 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UNBREAKABLE
"actuator"....I promise, it'll work
we'll see .. !! ( new pattend in process )

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I'm going on vacation this Friday and I won't be back until next Sunday . You can find my happy ass soaking up the rays in N. Myrtle Beach!
Great life .. no kidding !


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if you aren't denting and bending stuff, you just aren't wheeling hard enough
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Old 07-13-06, 03:58 PM   #65
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What tubing are you using for the wishbone?


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Old 07-13-06, 05:09 PM   #66
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Dom


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Old 07-13-06, 05:27 PM   #67
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no kidding

Quote:
Originally Posted by UNBREAKABLE
Dom

Did you get all that Mace?

What thickness?





JR


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Old 07-13-06, 07:15 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mace
BTW, 28" is still pretty tall for 38's. I am 23" to the bottom of my frame with 40's on my FJ40.

It does look good tho. Keep it up!!!!!!

21" to the frame on my 40

38.5 SX's

Full body, full frame, no body lift, just some fender trimming. It is S-T-A-B-L-E.


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Old 07-13-06, 08:19 PM   #69
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Inches

I'm 28.5 to the frame.

44" Boggers. Tires actually measure 42".


It's tall, redneck Alabama lift.

It probably needs some more trimming from the rear quarters.

It's actually 22.75 to the frame now. Sitting on 30.5" tire to get it in my shop.

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Old 07-13-06, 09:45 PM   #70
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21" to the frame on my 40

38.5 SX's

Full body, full frame, no body lift, just some fender trimming. It is S-T-A-B-L-E.
At what psi?
and is that frame or skidplate?

If you are SO I am dubious


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Old 07-14-06, 04:05 AM   #71
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.120.....if I bend it, Ill get some serious tube for it.


I don't understand how you can be so low. I guess that the 40 frames are shaped ALOT different than the truck frames.


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Old 07-14-06, 05:59 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mace
At what psi?
and is that frame or skidplate?

If you are SO I am dubious
To the framerail, like I said

At street pressure.

And no I'm not SO.

After I read this thread, I just wondered what mine measured, so I ran out to the driveway with a tape.



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Old 07-14-06, 08:33 AM   #73
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how much room between you fender and tire?

4" lift or so?


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Old 07-14-06, 11:50 AM   #74
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It equals out too about 3.5" of lift


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Old 07-14-06, 02:12 PM   #75
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Did you get all that Mace?

What thickness?





JR
Can you fill in the rest of the blanks please Unbreakable?


size, wall thickness?


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Old 07-18-06, 09:15 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mace
how much room between you fender and tire?

4" lift or so?

Not much.

Its just a 4" lift. Hadn't planned on running 38's but got a deal so I jumped on it. Works so well where I wheel (Tellico) I'm not changing anything major for awhile at least.


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Old 07-18-06, 09:40 AM   #77
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Sweet

Low is good..


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Old 07-23-06, 02:53 PM   #78
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Sorry for the slow response...VACATION! .120 wall DOM gusseted and braced.


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Old 07-26-06, 06:11 PM   #79
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BACK TO THE SHOP!
Well, after a much needed vacation, I am back at it. Bud dropped off the piece to my upper link that had to be threaded yesterday. Today I had enough time to use the hot glue gun an put it in its place. I haven't had time to build the gussets for it yet but, I have a good idea of what I want it to look like.
I figured out that my lower links will be around 45-48 long! I also determined that I can lower my rig another 1 or 2 inches.


Bling!


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Old 07-26-06, 06:26 PM   #80
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Now I've got an idea for my next project How much seperation are you going to have between that upper link and your lower arms? Nice work


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Old 07-26-06, 07:03 PM   #81
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i may be preaching to the tube gods here. and take no affense to this but i used .125 wall dom to build my cage. i have see guys use much thicker on links and sleeve it and bend the heck out of them. i used 2" od 3/8" wall dom on my lowers and 1 1/2" od 1/4" wall dom on my uppers. some people might say that is overkill but i say just right. nothing like your axle falling off.


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Old 07-27-06, 02:36 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by actionjackson
Now I've got an idea for my next project How much seperation are you going to have between that upper link and your lower arms? Nice work


I want to say it's around 7~8~ I'll measure tonight. Let me give it a good thrashing, then I'll give you some ideas on weak links. I am really digging the LONG lower links though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dacicci
i may be preaching to the tube gods here. and take no affense to this but i used .125 wall dom to build my cage. i have see guys use much thicker on links and sleeve it and bend the heck out of them. i used 2" od 3/8" wall dom on my lowers and 1 1/2" od 1/4" wall dom on my uppers. some people might say that is overkill but i say just right. nothing like your axle falling off.
I'm pretty sure my cage will be stout enough to handle most anything I can throw at it. I am going to beef up my upper link so I don't have to worry about it doin' the twist on me.


AS ALWAYS THANKS FOR THE COMMENTS! GOOD OR BAD I LIKE HEARING RESPONSES!

Back to the shop!


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Old 07-27-06, 10:09 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UNBREAKABLE
I want to say it's around 7~8~ I'll measure tonight. Let me give it a good thrashing, then I'll give you some ideas on weak links. I am really digging the LONG lower links though.



I'm pretty sure my cage will be stout enough to handle most anything I can throw at it. I am going to beef up my upper link so I don't have to worry about it doin' the twist on me.


AS ALWAYS THANKS FOR THE COMMENTS! GOOD OR BAD I LIKE HEARING RESPONSES!

Back to the shop!

what i mean is that i think the tube you are using for your links is to thin. i have seen alot of people sleeve thinner tubeing and it still bends. but to each his own i just hate to see you do all that good work just to have you bend a bar.


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Old 07-28-06, 07:58 AM   #84
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Quote:
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what i mean is that i think the tube you are using for your links is to thin. i have seen alot of people sleeve thinner tubeing and it still bends. but to each his own i just hate to see you do all that good work just to have you bend a bar.
The tubing is a bit on the thin side IMHO but it is the bends in the tubing that really has me worried. I would use stronger materials..

Bending links on the trail Sucks... A lot..


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Old 07-28-06, 06:19 PM   #85
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Quote:
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The tubing is a bit on the thin side IMHO but it is the bends in the tubing that really has me worried. I would use stronger materials..

Bending links on the trail Sucks... A lot..

i have seen a couple of 4 links with the uppers with bends but they used 1/4 wall dom. now thats some stuff to bend tuff on the bender and your back. i guess it is ok the ones i saw were on comp guys rigs. i would not want to trust it. depending on were you bend the link you are just asking for it to bend more with the rock abuse. woody sleeved his and bent a tube, fryman bent a tube i do not now exactly what tube they used woody told me once but i forgot. i know steel is expensive but i only paid $100 for the steel to do my rear links and i had enough left for a spare pole for each and i bought the thick stuff in dom. nothing worse than changing a bar in the thick of things that is if you have a spare. and it is not like anyone else is going to have a spare for you. and if it bends to much or god forbid it breaks than you have real problems, broke driveshaft ring & pinion, locker axle shaft yada , yada yada. been their done that with a snaped leaf spring thats a trip ender.


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Old 07-28-06, 06:28 PM   #86
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Typiaclly people bend lower links from lateral forces due to rocks. Upper links are typically in extension and do not buckle easily, making them 2" OD helps a lot as well. The larger the diameter of the tubign the harder it is to bend. That being said, when you start a bend in a material it is a LOT easier to bend later on.

My fromt upper is 2" x.250 wall chromo and has a clearance bend in it. I am still a bit concerned about it bending..


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