Exo on FJ80

actionjackson · 03-23-06, 02:06 PM

Next project....Exo for my 80.

Just getting ideas at this point. Can you post up pictures of any exo'd FJ80's out there. I've seen some 60's exo'd as well so post em up please. I know some of you hate exo's however I'm not interested in going internal cage. I'm not into looks as much as protection and I don't want to scrape up all my sheet metal. Thanks!

stuck in GA · 03-23-06, 02:43 PM

Try to get in contact with lowridetide because when I was at Tellico I was with some guys that had an exo'd 80 from panama I think. It is a manual trans. and it was on 37's. I think the guy is on here. But I don't know his name. But lowridetide wheeled with him and has a lot of pics of his rig I think.

lowtideride · 03-23-06, 02:53 PM

The Exo cage saved this thing on every trail, well and Ale's good driving too

. It worked awesome. So awesome infact that my 80 is getting one soon. Heres a shot on lower 2 and guardrail at tellico. Ill dig up some more if you like.

-Al

kirk · 03-23-06, 04:47 PM

As soon as my engine swap is done I am starting to build my 80 series exo. I liked Ali's and have a few ideas to build on it....

Sectionalized pieces so it can be removed/repaired.

Removable plates to cover the slider windows and quarters.

Horizontal tube protection along doors- removable if you wish not to act like the dukes.

full length roof with perfed metal integrated into cage (insert for sunroof) mounts for a custom tent/ temporary 2nd floor.

full connection between back of slider to quarter panel tubes.

I am probably going to add some laser cut gussets in a few key corners with hole to attach ropes lights etc.

lets see some more pics!

Kirk

clownmidget · 03-23-06, 05:26 PM

Great and timely thread.

I have been thinking about the multiple removeable sections as Kirk points out with pre-existing design features incorporated into the front bumper, sliders and rear bumper that can accept the exo sections.

Please don't let this descend into a diatribe about how it won't really protect you if you flip it going 80 mph. Like the rig pictured above this is great for what it is designed to do.

kirk · 03-23-06, 08:08 PM

My truck has been flareless since last summer. I am thinking instead of running tube from the ARB around the fenderlip and attaching to the slider I would burn two pieces of 1/8 steel resembling the flare size. from a cross section it would be like a triangle shape resembling the flare. It would be as strong as the tubing, plus look sveet.

When studying & watching Ali's rig (with all due respect Ali, its badazz) I saw a few area's that the tube would give if enough of the trucks weight were placed on it. The front and rear fender areas seem to me the key area that an 80 needs to lean on a little.

Lowtide, easy on the posts! You are getting me all excited about spring and my rig is not ready. I will not be at tellico this year

b/c of my business and my swap. I am hitting CMCC for sure. I wish last year we would of did lower 2 with you.

Kirk

AMMO · 03-23-06, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clownmidget

Great and timely thread.

I have been thinking about the multiple removeable sections as Kirk points out with pre-existing design features incorporated into the front bumper, sliders and rear bumper that can accept the exo sections.

Please don't let this descend into a diatribe about how it won't really protect you if you flip it going 80 mph. Like the rig pictured above this is great for what it is designed to do.

I second the motion as Mr. Mike "No Sleep" above

Best bet is to snap some shots of your rig from the side, front, back and top. From there break out paint or photochop some lines in...

Here is some stuff I've been toying with...Mine you all my paint skillz suck! And never mind some of the tubes to nowhere... heck it's just to give ideas

Cruiserhead05 · 03-24-06, 10:51 AM

Ammo,

Are you really going to do a chop-top/SUT with the 80?

Sounds awesome! any more info?

clownmidget · 03-24-06, 04:38 PM

Ok, so here has been my idea as I get ready to do a front and rear bumper. They will have pre-designed "receptacles" consisting of deep sleeved tubes that will allow a pin to pass through them and secure the exo sections. Each side half will be like a clam shell with the connections across the top of the truck. All the door pieces can be taken off seperately. I like Kirk's idea of having "shields" you can put on to protect the rear windows. I added the front bumper design I'm favoring as well but not quite as big.

meigsrock · 03-24-06, 09:13 PM

Don't chop that good looking FJ80!! It is a F'n waste of space.

muddogbob · 03-24-06, 09:23 PM

I've been considering putting a "light as possible" exo on my fj62. I need something on my roof/pilars/fenders to protect me from tree damage.

kirk · 03-25-06, 03:00 AM

What tubing size are each of you considering?
I am going to use 1-1/2" Sch 10pipe. It is not 1.5" od, but a pipe size. the od is 1.900" and the wall is .109" It is made of good enough steel is fair priced and easy to obtain.

Stop right there! Lets not venture into a metalurgy/tube mfg discussion. If someone wants to waste $ on DOM tube thats fine. My intent is not to build a nhra or nascar certified structure that will keep me alive in a 200mph roll. It is to protect the body of my truck when I cannot avoid objects. Also the cage will assist the existing body structure in the event of a light rollover.

For what we are doing here DOM and 4130 in my mind are way overkill. If you want to learn more about tubing specs do a search in the hardcore heading. I will say that everything you will read is not entirely accurate. I noticed a few threads had some untrue statements.

Weight-

My rough guess without a formal plan yet is a full exo would be between 100 and 120 feet of material when compete. the material I am using is 2.08# per ft. this puts me around 200-250lbs finished. Add in the extras on my roof rack and side plating will be another 100 lbs. So I would say 350# is the rough weight.

CruisinGA · 03-25-06, 10:59 PM

You forgot about HREW- certainly better than pipe, and not as expensive as DOM.

That is all I will say on the subject. Good Luck.

I do agree than an exo on a vehicle with an already strong body is not as crucial for basic safety, as for instance the cage on my topless 40, which is a mixture of DOM and HREW.

kirk · 03-26-06, 06:41 AM

Pipe is made thru the HREW process the strength properties are equal to HREW mechanical tube. They both use equal quality steel. DOM uses a higher strength steel plus extra processing.

If you are buying pipe the spec is ASTM A500. Ask if it is grade A,B,or C. Grade A is equal to HREW mechanical tube, grade B I never see available, Grade C is very strong better than hrew, but not as good as DOM.

The discount here is that Pipe sized tubing is used in so many applications that the volume drives down the price. Some of the uses are OHSA handrails, pressure piping, steam, water gas, oil.

Right now I can buy 1.900 o.d .109 wall pipe for $1.30 per foot.

locrwln1 · 03-27-06, 02:59 PM

My only question on your door protection bars is.... how do you fasten them when you get in and how do you release them when you are in and want to get out? Pins would be a pain in the a$$ everytime. JMHO

kirk · 03-27-06, 03:36 PM

This is not a open everytime gig. I would bolt them in place when I was planning a harcore day and leave them on. Even though I am a porker I could squeeze my fat through the windows like the dukes.

There are spring loaded male female swing out bar kits for rollcages in drag cars. This would be another way.

ONE MUST SACRIFICE TO PREVENT BODY DAMAGE ON HARDCORE TRAILS.

KIRK

lowtideride · 03-27-06, 06:18 PM

haha, no way would I crawl in and out of a door just not to dent it.

Mike Knorr · 03-28-06, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kirk

ONE MUST SACRIFICE TO PREVENT BODY DAMAGE ON HARDCORE TRAILS.

KIRK

Why not just wheel a rig more suited to hardcore trails? Leave the 80 for what its good at doing. Trying to stuff an oversized rig in the same spot a buggy went through isn't a good idea even if you have an exo.

alkaline747trio · 03-28-06, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Knorr

Why not just wheel a rig more suited to hardcore trails? Leave the 80 for what its good at doing. Trying to stuff an oversized rig in the same spot a buggy went through isn't a good idea even if you have an exo.

Or we could squeeze our luxury Crusher through and over everything that the buggy did, with straight body panels and the AC on. That is what the 80 is good at doing, doing everything anything else can and doing it all in style.

Mike Knorr · 03-28-06, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alkaline747trio

Or we could squeeze our luxury Crusher through and over everything that the buggy did, with straight body panels and the AC on. That is what the 80 is good at doing, doing everything anything else can and doing it all in style.

Not likely. I have owned a lot of different 4x4's and they all have their niche. 80's are great rigs. But they are not light go anywhere 4x4's. They are not even remotely close to following a buggy around with out totaly trashing the rig. Even with an exo. Most buggys weigh half what an 80 weighs. The basic physics are against ya. If your not going to make compromises like having a working door why stop at an exo cage. Why not just ditch the body and run the cage.

Keep the 80 for what its good at. Duke boy-ing it through the window kind of cuts into that luxury wheeler image. Not to mention thats hardly doing it in style.

Plus chances are if your following an buggy with an 80 the only one emerging with straight panels is the buggy. I am guiessing the buggy won't have an exo either...