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Old 07-28-06, 08:30 PM   #31
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Well I have been thinking alot bout the 6 stud knuckle. It is really a long road to a short answer. The dana 60 king pin style axle uses 4 bolts/ studs also. IMO the dana 60 has more scrub force which means more force on the same 4 studs. At a 1/2 " stud they do well , with the 9/16 they do well. It would follow that the studs on Toyota need to be upsized. I realize it causes the arm to be redrilled and countersunk but thats is cheap.


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Old 07-29-06, 06:01 AM   #32
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I got my Front Range studs Friday, very nice!


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Old 07-29-06, 12:40 PM   #33
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Red locktite isn't that tough to remove.
Hit whatever you're taking apart with a propane torch for a couple of seconds, it doesn't take long, and it will come right apart.


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Old 01-27-08, 10:25 AM   #34
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Hi Everyone,

Thought I would resurrect this thread for a question I had. I have been out wheeling a couple of times since the install and noticed these come loose easier than the stock ones I had. I have been torque'n them to 90 before I go out and notice I had to retorque them at lunch. Has anyone else seen this? Do I need to torque them down more?

Thank you,


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Old 01-27-08, 03:40 PM   #35
what he said
 
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how tight are you torquing them to?

I crank the living hell out of them..


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Old 01-27-08, 04:02 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warpdriv View Post
Hi Everyone,

Thought I would resurrect this thread for a question I had. I have been out wheeling a couple of times since the install and noticed these come loose easier than the stock ones I had. I have been torque'n them to 90 before I go out and notice I had to retorque them at lunch. Has anyone else seen this? Do I need to torque them down more?

Thank you,


I would suspect that the threads in the knuckle housing are distorted....
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Old 01-27-08, 04:47 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warpdriv View Post
Hi Everyone,

Thought I would resurrect this thread for a question I had. I have been out wheeling a couple of times since the install and noticed these come loose easier than the stock ones I had. I have been torque'n them to 90 before I go out and notice I had to retorque them at lunch. Has anyone else seen this? Do I need to torque them down more?

Thank you,
as you well know I had the same problem till I put in the APR studs .. BUt I havent wheeled with the hydro yet so time will tell if that gets me back to re torqin ..I still have it in the truck and do torq em every run now but none loose since


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Old 01-31-08, 12:52 PM   #38
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ARP Torq numbers

"Knuckle stud nuts should be torqued to 110-120 ft-lbs
Hub stud nuts should be torqued to 28-30 ft-lbs.
Both studs should be installed snug into the hub or knuckle, only the nut should be torqued."


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Old 01-31-08, 08:36 PM   #39
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I have found that the toyota studs with the torx heads on them aren't as strong as the old style factory ones . I've broken both , now I'm using ARP's and they seem to be holding up .


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Old 02-03-08, 10:39 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustanutley View Post
ARP Torq numbers

"Knuckle stud nuts should be torqued to 110-120 ft-lbs
Hub stud nuts should be torqued to 28-30 ft-lbs.
Both studs should be installed snug into the hub or knuckle, only the nut should be torqued."
Thx. I'll run'em down and see what happens.


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