[LT]

I wouldn't listen to Zach too much, after all he is an engineer They like to think that everything works on paper but in real life it will never happen

[scouthead]

I read through this build up a while ago... you've done some real kick ass stuff here!
What Lokar shifter is it it that you don't like? I've been considering the cable shifter they sell that attaches to a stock GM column...

And as long as you guys are talking about anti-rap bars... Would it be better to have (in theory) one on each wheel end of the axle, or one as close to the ring and pinion as possible?

[Isotel]

ideally you want your wrap bar in the center.. But ive got alot of other stuff in the center, like T-case and 3rd member.. Two bars on each side may bind up the suspension travel, and is unnecessary..

The lokar - based on where i mounted it, i needed a bell crank kit.. which puts another heim and linkage into the mix and added $30 to the price.. I cant seem to figure out how to get the POS into 1st gear.. Yea the Shifter goes into it, but the tranny is not engaging into the 1st position, Makes it a PAIN in the ARSE for going down sketchy stuff.. I ended up with the bell crank more money into it than a Art Carr Cable Shifter.. the lokar was built for hot rods, the Art Car, for Race cars.. id prefer the later at this point..

If your running a GM column, id Run the Stock Cable with the shifter on the column.. I think thats what Orange45 (Georg) recommended to me in the beginning..

[scouthead]

My stock gm column had solid linkage runing from the tranny to it... not a fan of the linkage... my suburban has shifted itself into neutral a couple of times when things were torqueing over real good.

[Isotel]

I Previously had Stock Birfs and an Open Carrier..

Putting in a Lockright, with 27 Spline cromo Longfields.. Stock Inners for now, If im Breaking inners i can upgrade to 30 spliners by just changing the star!

i Also picked up Marlins New HD inner axle seal, this should solve the Leaking issues!

[Man Jerk]

When do we put those in?

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by isotel

If im Breaking inners i can upgrade to 30 spliners by just changing the star!

This is posible only changing the star . ?

[Isotel]

Originally Posted by Tapage

This is possible only changing the star . ?

According to Bobby, Yes, only with the new Cromo stuff, the Birfs are the same size, the cage is the only thing that is different!

Originally Posted by Man Jerk

When do we put those in?

Opps i forgot to call you! What about Wensday night.. Im having some issues with the longs..
http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/150282-longfield-issue-bad-movment-marine-grease.html
all the old stuff is torn out.. should be Cake.. Ive got !

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by isotel

According to Bobby, Yes, only with the new Cromo stuff, the Birfs are the same size, the cage is the only thing that is different!

Nice .. how I can determinate if I have the new cromo stuff . ?

[Isotel]

Originally Posted by Tapage

Nice .. how I can determinate if I have the new cromo stuff . ?

Read this
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=305715

[too tall]

I agree about the antisquat.I had mine setup like that for a while until I got tired of it hopping and popping the heims or tearing the bracket off the diff . Your ass end will have a tendency to lift when you throttle up and hopp when your wheels start spinning. your project is looking good though.when do we get to see some action shots?

Originally Posted by bustanutley

Ideally it should be tangent from the circle from the center of the axle tube. It may be ok, run it and see, just thought I would mention the possibility. The connection point on the frame side is a bit high for my tastes giving it a high antisquat # but you don’t really have much option.

[Isotel]

i will have moab photos in about 3 weeks

So im a bit confused, how could i have done it differently? Lower the mount ? Just driving it around the block i do notice the truck dose not squat like it used to on take off, its pretty neutral..

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by isotel

Read this
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=305715

thanks .. !

[Isotel]

Ledge coming out of Cliffhanger

Ledge near the start of Poison Spider (did not make this one)

Exit out of Cliffhanger (got my revenge on this hill, it claimed a driveshaft last time)

My wheeling buddies


I Made it up Potato Salad Hill Twice, and no one got photos of it , yet ive got tons of photos of my buddy in the Jeep that would not climb crap all weekend (too top heavy)

The Truck worked pretty dam good! Front Locker opens up a whole new world that i need a cage for! the warp bar did its job, but i did get some hopping. as i learned how to control it with the brakes it seemed to work better!

[Isotel]

Got some new Tires/wheels mounted up last week.. (THANKS Uncle Ben)

They are 37/15.5 Pit Bull Rockers on 17" FJC Steelies (17"x7.5", 4.5" BackSpace)

My Axles are Stock Width at 55" WTW and i added a set of 1.5" Wheel Spacers.

[Isotel]

i need some advise on the rig.. Couple of issues as the truck sits.

Front springs are Flat Stock FJ40 springs Flipped / Shackle reversal under the frame rail w/stock shackle Stock Leafs

Rear Springs are FJ60 Rears Flipped w/ custom shackle.. they have a slight arch to them.. stock Leafs

100" Wheelbase, 23.5" to the Frame 22.5" to the bottom of the Flat Skid.

it Rides Like CRAP.. i feel every bump in the road, and pretty Stiff in the rear..
Its even worse on a rock filled trail, by the end of the day, im BEAT from getting thrashed!

Secondly, id like to bring it down to the ground just a bit.. especially in the rear..

THe front Tires rub on the rear of the front spring at full turn (see photo)
and the Rear tires rub on the side of the tub near the frame on full Flex.. ( so i need more width, either with larger spacers, Different wheels, or maybe new wider (FJ60) axles..

Also the Front fenders will need to be trimmed up alot

So im thinking about changing my front shackles so they run thru the frame, and have a bit more angle to them, also lower the rig in the front by about 1/2" or so

in the rear, id like to Take out a leaf pack or 2 to make it ride softer, then maybe put a smaller shackle on it to get it down even lower..

So, How should i go about widening the track, and getting it to ride better/lower? Im going to be getting some Bilstein shocks soon, but want to wait to see what the plan is on the truck first, so i don't get them too long/short..

[rondog]

sweet ride !! I miss my 40 ---for your ride issue - tj coils!! they work great on fj40's. also I have fj60 axles for sale!!
front 60"- rear 58"

[Man Jerk]

Trev,

First and foremost I would get ditch those el cheapo crap shocks you are running. Get some decent bilstiens and I bet that would make a huge difference. Talk to Wayne. He's got the connections there. I think he can even give you the number to a guy at the Factory in Germany.

[Isotel]

Originally Posted by Man Jerk

I think he can even give you the number to a guy at the Factory in Germany.

but i dont speak German



Yea, shocks, once ive got an extra $300 laying around

[bustanutley]

I would try to achieve a shackle angle closer to 45 deg, should take care off all the above issues.

[Isotel]

what do ya think about removing a leaf from the rear spring pack?

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by Isotel

what do ya think about removing a leaf from the rear spring pack?

But rear you only got 4 leafs ? so you gonna have only 3 ?

[Isotel]

Ive got 6 on the springs ive got.. Maybe the guy who i bought these from gave me his front springs instead of the rears??

[boots4]

You probably don't haul much weight in the rear so I would think taking a leaf out is worth a try. It won't cost you anything. I'd take out the shorter leaves first since longer leaves flex better.

[Man Jerk]

Even some cheap Doeschtechs would be an improvement.

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by boots4

I'd take out the shorter leaves first since longer leaves flex better.

That true .. other option could be replace short ones for long ones ( leaf )

[72cruiser]

Originally Posted by bustanutley

I would try to achieve a shackle angle closer to 45 deg, should take care off all the above issues.

Originally Posted by Isotel

what do ya think about removing a leaf from the rear spring pack?

yeah, i'm with nutley on this one. even if you get your springs to sag more, your shackle angle is still goin to be an issue.

what is the "ideal" setup?
something like 45-50 degrees when your spring is completely flat?
i think i remember that from a thread that mark whatley did a while back.
that's what i'm goin for with mine...



malphrus

[chappysfj40]

i have to agree, you need an angle on the shackels or they wont move. just my 2 cents

[Isotel]

I Figured i would make an Update on some Recent work to the truck..

I did some Body work here - http://forum.ih8mud.com/paint-body/2...rtion-tub.html

finally put in a Roll Cage , Designed it in Bend Tech and Bent it up out at Redline.. Front Suspension Seats are "Race Trim". and the rear seats are Tumble and fold, not too sure what they came out of. but they work Perfect for a 40. Tube Doors from Redline..

I still have not addressed the Bad Ride Issues, but i Figured Safety was First!

I also Traded out the 1.5" spacers for 3" but they will work till i can build some wider axles..

I am SO. Happy with the way everything is working. the Pit Bull Rockers are working good now that they are getting broken in a bit.

some photos from CM 08

[Tapage]

Are you running 3" wheel spacers on those pics . ? don't look that huge ..