[4alarm]

Some of you may have seen my project on Pirate4x4, but I figured I show my progress here as well.

I started with a 1970 FJ40 with a Chevy 265 V8 mated to the factory 3 speed transmission and transfer case. Factory axles with drum brakes front and rear. It's a rust bucket with a nasty yellow paint job.

Here she is the day I brought her home:

[4alarm]

I decided that I wanted to go with full width axles. I was going to use a set of 10 Bolt axles that I picked up cheap. After removing the old axles and fitting the 10 bolts under it, I found a rear 14 bolt FF axle for a good price, so I decided the 10 bolts would never see the trails.

I found a 6-lug D44 for the front and set out to find the 8-lug outers to convert it. After searching for a few weeks I found that it would be cheaper just to buy a complete 8-lug D44. I found a matched 14-bolt/D44 set with 4:10 gears for a screaming deal so I picked them up.

I outboarded the front springs to work with the new full width front axle. Along with that I did a shackle reversal.

I finally got my u-bolts for the 14 bolt today, but looks like the ones I ordered are too long and the threads don't go down low enough. So looks like I'm going to have to find some one to thread it further down the bolts, or order another set.

Old axles:




Rear 10 Bolt:


Front spring perch (about 2 1/2" wider):


Outboarded front with shackle reversal:


D44 mounted and approach angle:




Rear 14 bolt:

[4alarm]

I picked up a freshly rebuilt 350, an SM 465, and an NP205 transfer-case so now I'm in the process of getting it all put together and mounted up.

[Radd Cruisers]

Looks rippin good......

Glad to see you are detoning that 1980s paint skeme, kinda gay in this day and age.

[V-DAWG]

I have had two friends put in 14 bolt rears with 60 fronts. They were both done by the same person, so they were nearly identical. Anyway, to get to my point....what is your plan with the steering? They had to notch out quite a bit of the frame in order to allow the drag link to fit. Are you going full hyro, or assist, or what? I am just curious. It looks like a fun project, wish I could find the time to actually accomplish something. Good luck!

[wngrog]

Great work! THanks for sharing

[woody]

looks like fun to me! Glad to see I'm not the only one who thinks paint is overrated...hehehe

[Mace]

I have a D60 front and did nto have to notch the frame to make it fit.

In fact, I don't know anyone that had to physically notch the frame to make the steering work..

[4alarm]

Originally Posted by Radd Cruisers

Looks rippin good......

Glad to see you are detoning that 1980s paint skeme, kinda gay in this day and age.

The paint came with it. If you notice in one of the pics up there I was experimenting with some desert tan. I think I'm just gonna spray it flat black to get rid of the yellow. Like Woody said who cares about color, most of it will be scraped off soon enough anyways .

[4alarm]

Originally Posted by V-DAWG

I have had two friends put in 14 bolt rears with 60 fronts. They were both done by the same person, so they were nearly identical. Anyway, to get to my point....what is your plan with the steering? They had to notch out quite a bit of the frame in order to allow the drag link to fit. Are you going full hyro, or assist, or what? I am just curious. It looks like a fun project, wish I could find the time to actually accomplish something. Good luck!

Right now I have the Saginaw box and was planning on crossover high steer. I'm debating full hydo, but will probably settle on assist. I don't see how the frame would cause an issue. if anything the passenger side spring may rub at full compression. I won't know till I get it all setup.

[LC_Hamma]

Whoa, major drivetrain transplant. Looks good man! What size tires you gonna run with that ditch digger 14 bolt?

[4alarm]

I'm thinking 40's. No less then 38's though. I'm gonna shave the 14 bolt down a little.

[LC_Hamma]

What happened to the radiator diagonal braces? I'd put 'em back on.
That thing is screamin' for some front tube fenders.
IMO, I think your front outboarded spring hangers need to wrap around the front frame horns for more weld surface contact. And box those frame horns too.
You don't need a heater in AZ right?
Good luck with the D44 & 40" tires. IMO, you should do it right with a 60 to begin with.

[4alarm]

Originally Posted by LC_Hamma

What happened to the radiator diagonal braces? I'd put 'em back on.
That thing is screamin' for some front tube fenders.
IMO, I think your front outboarded spring hangers need to wrap around the front frame horns for more weld surface contact. And box those frame horns too.
You don't need a heater in AZ right?
Good luck with the D44 & 40" tires. IMO, you should do it right with a 60 to begin with.

Radiator supports: It only had one when I got it. I will still use that one, and will make a new one for the other side.

Spring hangers: I'm gonna cut the top and sides off, weld some plate on the top to make it a triangle, and cap the ends. I'll tie the front bumper into the front hangers for added strength, but I don't know what else I can do for the shackle hanger mount.

D60: I agree, but don't have the money. This will at least get me going. I'll be keeping my eyes open for a 60. I'm not real heavy on the skinny pedal, and my local trails aren't too extreme. I've waisted a lot of money in the past by not just doing right the first time, but still haven't learned.

Thanks for the feedback guys, keep it coming.

[PolishX]

looking good but where is it at now ? my super 60 is being built still , waiting for crossover and hi steer crap to arrive ... think I have a link around someplace

[4alarm]

Originally Posted by PolishX

looking good but where is it at now ? my super 60 is being built still , waiting for crossover and hi steer crap to arrive ... think I have a link around someplace

I working on the 3/4 ton front D44. I swapped the steering knuckles for a set with a flat top passenger side. I had to replace both because the flat top knuckle's draglink mount was tapered down from the top and the other was tapered up from the bottom. I replaced all the ball joints and ordered new rotors for the front and rear. I separated the rotors/drums from the hubs and cleaned them all up with a wire brush and a fresh coat of paint. I need to get new wheel bearings to rebuild the hubs and then will be able to put it all back together.

I ordered a set of 15X8 8 on 6.5" wheels with 3.5" BS from Summit, got them in the mail a week later, cleaned the oil off of them, painted them, and finally found out that they wouldn't fit the front hub/rotor assembly. Without brake pads I would have had to grind ~1/8" off the caliper to make them fit. I wouldn't have any caliper left with brake pads. They reversed the wheel on the center (made the inside of the wheel the outside) because they said that was the only way it would clear the caliper. By reversing it they made it impossible to clear them. So I had to send those back ($80 later) today. I'm gonna call them right now to see if there going to reimburse me for the shipping.

So I have to order another set of wheels, and get some tires mounted so I can get it back on the ground. Then I'll start on mounting the engine. I only get to work on it every other weekend because my wife is mean and won't let me out in the garage to play.

I'll post more pics later.

[PolishX]

no laughing , here is mine with e D60 /D70 combo . no pics of the interior yet cause I am lazy Alaskan Super FJ60

[4alarm]

Originally Posted by PolishX

no laughing , here is mine with e D60 /D70 combo . no pics of the interior yet cause I am lazy Alaskan Super FJ60

Let me guess.... CRX seats? I had a set that I gave to a freind of mine for his '85 pickup. He called me the other day wanting to know if i wanted them back. I was all excited till I saw 'em....

[PolishX]

looks really familular , aside from the scorch marks

[4alarm]

Coming along really slowly. I got all the ball joints replaced on the HD D44, cleaned up the housing, replaced the brake rotors, and replaced the wheel bearings and races. I have to pull one of the knuckles back off because the lower ball joint is rubbing on the u-joint. I think I can just grid a little off the top and make it work.

Summit payed half of the return shipping so I'm out $40. They keep telling me that they are doing me a favor for accepting the return even though they sent me the wrong wheels. They never got back with me on wheather or not they could get me the correct wheels. I called Discount and they could only get me 15"x10" wheels so I ordered them and they're on the way. I'll be getting some cash next week, so the tires will be ordered shortly. I'm 99.99% set on the 39.5" IROK's. Looks like I can get all 5 for just over $1K.

I'll post more pics when I actually get something acomplished.

[4alarm]

I found this today:







Guess I'll be buying a new ring gear after all.

[4alarm]

A friend came over on Sat. and helped me get the 14 bolt shaved and the spiders welded.

I got my 15X10" steelies last week and ordered my 38.5" SX's , they should be here this week. Discount Tire price matched Sams Offroad at $220 a tire.

[camcruiser13]

i need more, looks like itll be a sweet ride, keep the pics coming.

[JRFJ4-]

I've got almost the same project going on. Dana 60/14 Bolt/465/205.

I will start a new thread tomorrow, I'm getting pics put on a disk today.

Are you keeping the 4.10's or going lower? I'm going to run 4.10's for a while and try them. I didn't have the money to change r&p and put all lockers in now. I'm running 39.5 bogger rear/ TSL fronts.

I had to grind on my calipers 15x10 3.5 b.s. But they clear fine now. You'll probably have to grind some regardless.

Are you moving the back axle back and motor forward. The 465/205 is a long combo. My rear driveshaft is still gonna be short. I moved my rear axle back about 8 inches.

I would beef up those front spring hangers. That factory hanger is just too thin. It's ok at the rear, but not the front.


J.R.

[4alarm]

I thought about getting lower gears, especially since I have to replace the front now. I think I'll save the extra money and run the 4.10's for a while. I'm running the same drivetrain that 2 of my freinds are and they don't have any complaints with 4.10's.

I'll definitaly have to grind a little off the caliper and bracket to fit the wheels in the front. The rears look like they'll clear. I'll find out for sure this weekend.

For now the rear springs are flipped to move it back a tad. I plan on doing a 4 link in the rear later on and moving the axle back. I would like to get about 108" wheelbase.

After I get it on its tires and off the jack stands I'll figure out the mounting of the engine. I've got plenty of room if I do decide to move it forward.

I'm not real happy with the front spring hangers. I'm debating doing a 4 link in the front as well. Right now I'm just trying to get as much done as I can to get it on the trail. My wife is expecting our 2nd kid in about 7 months. If I don't get this thing rolling before then, I'll never get it done.

I'll be looking for your build-up thread.

[4alarm]

Got a little more done. I reassembled the 14 bolts ring and pinion, made my u-bolt plates, and hung the 14-bolt under the Land Cruiser. Any thoughts on the u-bolt plates? I was thinking about welding a lip onto the plates to add strength. Or should I just leave them as is?

Another Shaved pic:


The begining of the u-bolt plates:


Drilling the plates:


Plate mounted:

[Rock Taxi]

You had a good idea to add some support to those plates.

Ed

[JRFJ4-]

What are you going to do about driveshafts. I'm almost to that point myself, but I don't know that much about. Does your 205 have the CV flange on front?

I've looked on different driveshaft websites and I don't know whether to run cv's or get bigger yokes to run 1450 u-joints. I may just have to call somebody. I'm confused.

How much travel are thinking for the front shaft.

U bolt plates look fine. I made mine out of 1/2 plate.

What shocks are you gonna run? I haven't decided there either.

Everything looks good, keep the pics coming.

J.R.

[Eskimo]

My u-bolt plates are 1/2" flat, and they have a slight bend in them from torque (around 100 lb-ft, 5/8" u-bolts w/hi-nuts)

[4alarm]

I used 3/8" plate for mine. I'm gonna weld in some support bracing. I may also build an anti-wrap bar into the plate as well.

Got my new tires today :