[Cruiserdrew]

So I'm sort of retiring the FJ40 for a bit as the FJ60 is coming closer to trail ready.

When the 40 returns, I have in mind to build a 1 ton rig. Planning SM465/Atlas.

On the axles, I watch Craig's list closely and axles come up all the time, and I need to know what to look for. I'm in very early parts accumulation mode, and other than the tranny, and a running 40, I don't have anything. I'll buy stuff it it is really cheap, since I don't need it and can wait. Won't likely be building anything for at least a year.

Front---Looks like D60 from Chevy is the way to go. What should I look for or avoid?

The rear is much more complicated, and it looks like 3 decent choices. I'm assuming a need to regear what ever I get.

1-GM 14 bolt. These come up all the time for $250 or less. What is the problem with these that they are so cheap?

2-Dana 60. Decent looking one on CL today for $225 from Ford. I could not tell from the pic if it was FF or not. (Only considering FF)

3-Dana 70. This is what I really want. (I think). These usually run $500-$750 but I've seen a few cheaper. There was one from Dodge that was 35 spline 1.5 inch shafts for $500. What am I looking for here? At what point is one of these such a screamer that you have to jump on it?


Thanks. And Mace, don't try and talk me into an auto tranny. it ain't happenin'

[Poser]

What size tire are you going to run?

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by Poser

What size tire are you going to run?

Looking to run 38-40. I should have mentioned that.

[t wrecks]

I think all of these are fine choices but the 14bolt and d70 are the strong of the two in stock form. And thats only if the d70 has 35 spline axle shafts, if not then its comparable to the d60 because the pinion gear is the same size.

The 14bolt is a great axle with the only down side being is the ground clearance. This to me is a small sacrafice for avery strong axle. They are cheap because they are a million+ of these out there to be had. Make sure to get the FF version because it also comes in a semi-float.

I think the prices you posted are high, I paid $100 for my d70hd with stock 1.5" 35spline shafts. Shop around.

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by t wrecks

I think the prices you posted are high, I paid $100 for my d70hd with stock 1.5" 35spline shafts. Shop around.

10-4, thanks.

Like I said, not in a hurry.

[Poser]

Originally Posted by Cruiserdrew

Looking to run 38-40.

Pretty small tires for axles that large.

Spring over or not, you are going to be dragging...A LOT.




I ran 38.5" swampers with my Dana 60's front and rear in 1999. I then went to 42" tires to get some ground clearance back.



14B are cheap because there are a lot of them.

Dana 70? Better look at 44"+ tires.



If you are really dead-set on getting rid of Toyota axles and upgrading, I would look into fabricated housings running 9" or LC centers and Dana outers...

You are not going to run stock, garbage axle shafts anyhow, you are going to purchase some sort of locker/gears/bearing sets...

Research and spend once; Don't end up spending less money now, trying to save cash, only to end up spending more because you were trying to save cash.


What are you going to do with your axle platforms when you get them?

[LC_Hamma]

Originally Posted by Cruiserdrew

Looking to run 38-40. I should have mentioned that.

You could actually run bling'd up Cruzah axles in that tire size range, but it's *safe not to. High pinion 60's would be my 1st choise F & R. Ford side front & retube the rear. You'll have to do a massive shave running those low pinion pigs. Rebroach a set of Spicer 30 spline lockouts to 35 for the Ford front & I'd cryo the rear high pinion R & P & run 35 spline shafts there too. Run 5 stud Chebby knuckles w/ ARP studs & go w/ aftermarket cromo shafts & HD joints. Oh yeah, what's the budget?

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by Poser

70? Better look at 44"+ tires.

Interesting-I've sen lot's of 40s on the 60/70 set up. I figured 40in would be about the max that would fit under the FJ40 without even more mods.

Originally Posted by Poser

you are really dead-set on getting rid of Toyota axles and upgrading, I would look into fabricated housings running 9" or LC centers and Dana outers...

Interesting. I had not thought of that but the $$ might start to get crazy. That is a good thought though, as I have a bunch of Toyota 3rds with lockers.

Originally Posted by Poser

are not going to run stock, garbage axle shafts anyhow, you are going to purchase some sort of locker/gears/bearing sets...

This is true. The local gear guy here is very cool and helpful and I'd let him hook me up with custom high strength axles, and rebuild the centers. I would not mind spending coin here.

Originally Posted by Poser

Research and spend once; Don't end up spending less money now, trying to save cash, only to end up spending more because you were trying to save cash.

Don't worry. I preach this all the time. I like doing things right.

Originally Posted by Poser

What are you going to do with your axle platforms when you get them?

These will ultimately go under my 40 in some configuration. I use that truck in the Sierras-Rubicon is 90 minutes, Fordyce is 90 minutes etc. After many years wheeling the 40 on these trails, I built a wagon to do the same. But since I like having a project in the works, circling back to the 40 seems like something fun. It's presmog, so the sky is the limit.

Thanks!

[Dusty]

drew dont do a 14b. such a chunk and so huge. i trimmed up my d70 about 3/4" with a disk and it has clearance the 14b could cant have without major work. and i have been running the stock 35spline shafts from day one and no breakage.

i love the 35sp diamond 9" axles. id do it that way if i could do over. by the time you are done you are so over budgeted anyway. just pull the trigger and have the crates delivered to your door. the 9" will do fine with a 38-40" tire.

what r u waiting for? stop thinking and start spending

[rusty_tlc]

We had an FJ40 in BBCNN for a while that had a 14 bolt rear. The running joke in the club was you always knew which line Brian took by looking at the metal on the rocks. And he was always hanging up on something.

So if you are going to use the new 60 on Rubicon and Fordyce where are you using the re-built 40? It sounds like you are building a Hammers rig.

[freds40]

Hey Andy,
I've run a 14 bolt on many rigs...main reasons is they are stout and cheap. The pinion has an additional support bearing that neither of the Dana axles have. The shafts are 1.5" from the factory, and it's got a bigger ring gear than the 60. The pinion in the 60 and 70 are the same size. I've bought 14 bolts for as cheap as $50 since they are so plentiful.
Everyone will wine about clearance on the 14 bolt. There is a lip on them that if cut off will take off 3/4" without cutting into the housing and doing ring gear mods. If it's flat it will drag. My 14 bolt with the lip cut off has 1" less clearance than my FJ60 front housing.

And last, don't know how many times you recall me getting hung up on 30 miles of trail but if I remember right it was once maybe twice and a quick back up fixed the problem.

[locrwln1]

Here you go.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=802597

You can build them as money allows, just setting back and collecting parts, plus he is local to you and Sean (River City) will do any build up you might need. Plus your choice of axle spline count and center section is only limited by your budget (True Hi9 cough, cough)

Jack

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by freds40

Hey Andy,
I've run a 14 bolt on many rigs...main reasons is they are stout and cheap. The pinion has an additional support bearing that neither of the Dana axles have. The shafts are 1.5" from the factory, and it's got a bigger ring gear than the 60. The pinion in the 60 and 70 are the same size. I've bought 14 bolts for as cheap as $50 since they are so plentiful.
Everyone will wine about clearance on the 14 bolt. There is a lip on them that if cut off will take off 3/4" without cutting into the housing and doing ring gear mods. If it's flat it will drag. My 14 bolt with the lip cut off has 1" less clearance than my FJ60 front housing.

And last, don't know how many times you recall me getting hung up on 30 miles of trail but if I remember right it was once maybe twice and a quick back up fixed the problem.

Your build was the reason the 14 bolt was on the list. Dragging the rear diff is something I've done plenty even with Toyota diffs.

That Ruff Stuff housing is way nice. I'm going to have to go look at that.

[rusty_tlc]

Originally Posted by freds40

Hey Andy,
I've run a 14 bolt on many rigs...main reasons is they are stout and cheap. The pinion has an additional support bearing that neither of the Dana axles have. The shafts are 1.5" from the factory, and it's got a bigger ring gear than the 60. The pinion in the 60 and 70 are the same size. I've bought 14 bolts for as cheap as $50 since they are so plentiful.
Everyone will wine about clearance on the 14 bolt. There is a lip on them that if cut off will take off 3/4" without cutting into the housing and doing ring gear mods. If it's flat it will drag. My 14 bolt with the lip cut off has 1" less clearance than my FJ60 front housing.

And last, don't know how many times you recall me getting hung up on 30 miles of trail but if I remember right it was once maybe twice and a quick back up fixed the problem.

I did like the pinion protection on your diff. that in itself is a major plus.

[orangefj45]

i guess it all depends on what kind of budget you're working with..........

for the front, i'd go for a gm60 or if you have some extra $s, get a high pinion housing and have it built up. you can use a ford, gm or dodge 60 as a donor for the outers or piece them together. i'm pretty sure you've seen my neighbors jeeps, he has the currie high pinion centers in them and built the rest himself. i'd be mor than happy to put you in touch with him....

as for the rear, you could go with the same centersection as the front. or you could get a d60 and weld 14bolt spindles to it for the 35 spline shafts. cheap way to get a beefy rearend.

hth

georg @ valley hybrids

[71-CRUISER]

The next phase of my 40 will be 203/205 with a chevy 60 in the front and a shaved 14 bolt in the back. It will be linked, coil overed and full hydro. I am also looking at tires in the 42" range. Either SXs or Rockers.

With the GM 60 and 14 bolt setup you get stupid strong (42s and V8), readily available and cheep. There are definitely other options out there if your budget alows but you have to spend a lot more for something that isnt a lot better.

[bustanutley]

Like Poser said if you are going to upgrade from built yota axles (assumption) and buy junkyard 1 ton axles you are still going to be running Junkyard axles. And stock front D60s are not that strong in factory form. It takes a bunch of money to make it worth while, money better spent starting from scratch, for the front anyway. I would be looking at spidertrax housing and 50deg steering knuckles.

For the rear, a junkyard axle is fine, 14bolts rock, D60 require upgrading to big shafts, and D70s are used by crazy people that blow D60 R&P.

Personally for 40” tires if your front axle is built I would continue using it and throw an atlas in your truck and see how it holds up. My cruiser front is still holding together very well, but, I am going to be upgrading the last thing this winter, the housing

If you do get a junkyard front 60 to do a budget build, stock 35 spicer shafts are the way to go and upgrade the knuckles, they break way to easy.

[rusty_tlc]

Originally Posted by bustanutley

Like Poser said if you are going to upgrade from built yota axles (assumption) and buy junkyard 1 ton axles you are still going to be running Junkyard axles. And stock front D60s are not that strong in factory form. It takes a bunch of money to make it worth while, money better spent starting from scratch, for the front anyway. I would be looking at spidertrax housing and 50deg steering knuckles.

For the rear, a junkyard axle is fine, 14bolts rock, D60 require upgrading to big shafts, and D70s are used by crazy people that blow D60 R&P.

Personally for 40” tires if your front axle is built I would continue using it and throw an atlas in your truck and see how it holds up. My cruiser front is still holding together very well, but, I am going to be upgrading the last thing this winter, the housing

If you do get a junkyard front 60 to do a budget build, stock 35 spicer shafts are the way to go and upgrade the knuckles, they break way to easy.

I noticed Spidartrax has a 60° knuckle now.

[bustanutley]

Originally Posted by rusty_tlc

I noticed Spidartrax has a 60° knuckle now.

My buddy has those on his jeep, really cool. His truck looks broken when he is full turn. Making the suspension work is tricky.

[rusty_tlc]

Originally Posted by bustanutley

My buddy has those on his jeep, really cool. His truck looks broken when he is full turn. Making the suspension work is tricky.

Even a linked suspension?

[bustanutley]

It works, you just have to mount everything pretty far inboard. I think his lowers are bent inward as well.

[freds40]

I've seen a lot of guys are bending their lower links in to clear the steering. I'd love that kind of steering though.

[Sputnik40]

Originally Posted by bustanutley

Like Poser said if you are going to upgrade from built yota axles (assumption) and buy junkyard 1 ton axles you are still going to be running Junkyard axles. And stock front D60s are not that strong in factory form. It takes a bunch of money to make it worth while, money better spent starting from scratch, for the front anyway. I would be looking at spidertrax housing and 50deg steering knuckles.

For the rear, a junkyard axle is fine, 14bolts rock, D60 require upgrading to big shafts, and D70s are used by crazy people that blow D60 R&P.

Personally for 40” tires if your front axle is built I would continue using it and throw an atlas in your truck and see how it holds up. My cruiser front is still holding together very well, but, I am going to be upgrading the last thing this winter, the housing

If you do get a junkyard front 60 to do a budget build, stock 35 spicer shafts are the way to go and upgrade the knuckles, they break way to easy.

I have been watching this thread for ideas and solutions to my rear axle build delimma. Similar to the above comment - my front has 30 spline longs, 6 bolt knuckles, 4x4 labs high steer, chromoly drive gears, ARB, new cryo'd 4.56 gears, drilled the hubs for 6 studs (4 large, 2 stock), etc. Just ordered the axle spacer (which should help me max out my steering without rubbing springs) - and will be installing knuckle ball gussets and some other improvements when I do that mod.

I've pretty much settled on a 14-bolt for the rear - cheap, silly strong, going to do the shave mod to the housing and ring gear, etc. and can shorten to create the offset diff needed for my Orion HD. EXCEPT - I want to stick with my 6 bolt wheels. My options have been to have the stock hubs shaved down - or find someone who makes custom hubs. Got sucked into the ruff-stuff 14 bolt spindle/hub upgrade discussion - but it becomes a snowball $$$$ when you figure you might was well order some 40 spline axles, then you need to have some side gears made for whatever carrier/locker you use, etc. etc.

I know I'm hijacking - but if anyone knows of a 6 x 5.5 FF 14 bolt solution - please let me know .

[bustanutley]

I was unaware Ruffstuff was going to hopfully make cruiser housings and new improved bells, badass, thanks for the link locrwln1.

[locrwln1]

Originally Posted by bustanutley

I was unaware Ruffstuff was going to hopfully make cruiser housings and new improved bells, badass, thanks for the link locrwln1.

Glad I could help. As we say in our club, "We are here to help you spend your money."

Jack

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by locrwln1

Glad I could help. As we say in our club, "We are here to help you spend your money."

Jack

LOL-but in reading this, I've saved some. There are 14 bolts everywhere, including one in Bakersfield that is on CL for free. I'm going to pick up the next one of these that comes up with 4.11 gearing.

The front is much harder. With the RuffStuff bits and a Currie 9in 3rd, you can spend some coins in a hurry!

I'm going to look out for a Chevy D60 and go from there.

[rusty_tlc]

Originally Posted by locrwln1

Glad I could help. As we say in our club, "We are here to help you spend your money."

Jack

We should print that on our next round of Tee shirts.

[chicago]

I was looking at the 14 bolts...Christ on a BIKE those are CHEAP!
Im not quite ready to go with 40 in + tires YET, but...
Great read!

K

[chicago]

Originally Posted by locrwln1

Here you go.

The Ruffstuff 9" Axle Housing! - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board

You can build them as money allows, just setting back and collecting parts, plus he is local to you and Sean (River City) will do any build up you might need. Plus your choice of axle spline count and center section is only limited by your budget (True Hi9 cough, cough)

Jack

MAN that chick needs to EAT!
Give her a BURGER...QUICK!

[Mace]

Originally Posted by bustanutley

Like Poser said if you are going to upgrade from built yota axles (assumption) and buy junkyard 1 ton axles you are still going to be running Junkyard axles. And stock front D60s are not that strong in factory form. It takes a bunch of money to make it worth while, money better spent starting from scratch, for the front anyway. I would be looking at spidertrax housing and 50deg steering knuckles.

Ohhh come on.. Price a Spidertrax front complete 50 deg steering axle.
D60 = 1000
Hy steer = 300
35 spline stubs = $300
Drive slugs = $200.
And whatever locker you want.
Vs 5 to 7K or more for the spidertrax??

Originally Posted by bustanutley

For the rear, a junkyard axle is fine, 14bolts rock, D60 require upgrading to big shafts, and D70s are used by crazy people that blow D60 R&P.

Personally for 40” tires if your front axle is built I would continue using it and throw an atlas in your truck and see how it holds up. My cruiser front is still holding together very well, but, I am going to be upgrading the last thing this winter, the housing

Cruiser housings are not that strong. Diamond makes really nice housings. And they are not that bad priced...

Originally Posted by bustanutley

If you do get a junkyard front 60 to do a budget build, stock 35 spicer shafts are the way to go and upgrade the knuckles, they break way to easy.

IMHO, unless you are playing with ford knuckles, don't upgrade till you start seeing cracks. The GM knuckles typically have stress cracks way before they fail. I may be a puss, but I have yet to break a knuckle.

And Sputnik, 40 spline shafts.. Really?? If you are gonna do that to a rear axle. Don't start with a 14 bolt. Spend the money on a completly custom axle.