[Sputnik40]

Originally Posted by Mace

And Sputnik, 40 spline shafts.. Really?? If you are gonna do that to a rear axle. Don't start with a 14 bolt. Spend the money on a completly custom axle.

Damn, looks like I'm losing my sarcasm....

Just want a 6 x 5.5 solution so I don't have to run mixed wheels - that and I really don't want to buy any more Walker Evans "made in China" beadlocks but can live with what I have (yes I know my girlfriend is Chinese thank you ).

I only wish I could buy a custom axle - just the Currie 9" diff alone is scary to my pocketbook.

[fj40charles]

Originally Posted by orangefj45

i guess it all depends on what kind of budget you're working with..........

for the front, i'd go for a gm60 or if you have some extra $s, get a high pinion housing and have it built up. you can use a ford, gm or dodge 60 as a donor for the outers or piece them together. i'm pretty sure you've seen my neighbors jeeps, he has the currie high pinion centers in them and built the rest himself. i'd be mor than happy to put you in touch with him....

as for the rear, you could go with the same centersection as the front. or you could get a d60 and weld 14bolt spindles to it for the 35 spline shafts. cheap way to get a beefy rearend.

hth

georg @ valley hybrids

Andrew,

I would look at buying the parts to build your D60 front axle. Buy a HP center section, aftermarket knuckles and C's. You'll have all new parts and custom width/configuration. I have HP D60 axles on my junk and I will still hit the driveshaft from time to time.

I'd use a GM or Dodge D60 for the 6 hole spindles and availability of parts.

Charles

[Mace]

Originally Posted by Sputnik40

(yes I know my girlfriend is Chinese thank you ).

Chinese chicks are hott...

[Dusty]

i believe my d60 front is darn near bombproof with drive flanges, yukons and crossover steering to protect the nuckles. (vs highsteer) Mine has help up fine with 42's and lots of weight.

i sure wish i had highpinions though

[freds40]

Originally Posted by Sputnik40

Just want a 6 x 5.5 solution so I don't have to run mixed wheels

Just rework a set of 14 bolt hubs for 6 lug. That's what I did on my FJ60.

[mookie]

Sputnik , what's your plan to compensate for the width difference between the 14 bolt rear and the LC front axle?

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by mookie

Sputnik , what's your plan to compensate for the width difference between the 14 bolt rear and the LC front axle?

Did you see Freds40's build thread? Tour de Force on what to do with a 14 bolt in this situation.

[beno]

Does your wife know about all of this Andy?

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by beno

Does your wife know about all of this Andy?

Yep-she's on board.

[PKP80]

HardcoreDrew, lol. How about Rockwells front and rear with some 46" rubber, lol. I would do a D60 front and D60/70 rear with all the upgraded parts and I also would not run tires under 42". If the motto is do it once and do it right I think that would be the route to take. The question I would ask is whether or not down the line once the project is complete (1-3 years), would the difference in cash spent really have mattered? From my own experience when I rebuilt the 80, the answer has been no.

If you truly have no desire for 40+ tires, I don't see why you couldn't and wouldn't go with diamond axles with 80 series chromo shafts (I believe Ben from Slee is running that axle setup with 44's). Given the light weight of the 40 (and probably some cutting that will take place) it shouldn't be an issue. You'd also have parts more easily available to you since you wheel primarily with Toy/80 peeps (on and off the trail).

I'm looking forward to the 60 on the Con this year hopefully, this 40 build soon, and hopefully one day some more suspension and love on that 80, (although I think Jeff may head that last build). I wont be at SnT this year, but at least I wont be involved if the So Cal 80 bunch decides to camp in the wrong place and then whine about their forwarned choice. Have a Metal Tech pint for me and tell Marlin to make a freakin crawlbox already! Any followup with Inchworm? Cheers

[Sputnik40]

Originally Posted by mookie

Sputnik , what's your plan to compensate for the width difference between the 14 bolt rear and the LC front axle?

LC Wizard 3" extension sleeve in the mail for the front axle - has been suggested I mod a FJ60 axle - that will put me at around 62.50" give or take (or mod the 40 axle and stick with wheel spacers), cutting the long side down on the 14 bolt to run short side axles on both sides - should be somewhere around 61" with SRW hubs - and an offset diff.

I've just been researching and formulating a plan - there are others on here that can better answer...

[bustanutley]

Originally Posted by PKP80

If you truly have no desire for 40+ tires, I don't see why you couldn't and wouldn't go with diamond axles with 80 series chromo shafts (I believe Ben from Slee is running that axle setup with 44's).

Nope, mini truck knuckles with marlins kingpin upgrade,30 spliners and an 8" high pinion diff. He blows front diffs about every race, the longs are holding together but not happy, only one has exploded that I can remember, and we believe the bells/balls have crushed some on the housing.

40s compliment a 40 very well, its not a very big truck.

I'm seeing d60s really cheep, dammit, not sure if I want the weight

[mookie]

Originally Posted by Sputnik40

LC Wizard 3" extension sleeve in the mail for the front axle - has been suggested I mod a FJ60 axle - that will put me at around 62.50" give or take (or mod the 40 axle and stick with wheel spacers), cutting the long side down on the 14 bolt to run short side axles on both sides - should be somewhere around 61" with SRW hubs - and an offset diff.

I've just been researching and formulating a plan - there are others on here that can better answer...

it sounds like a solid plan.....i hope that you will start a new thread about it, i'm really interested in doing the front axle extension as well as seeing the mods you make to the 14 bolt

[PKP80]

Originally Posted by bustanutley

Nope, mini truck knuckles with marlins kingpin upgrade,30 spliners and an 8" high pinion diff. He blows front diffs about every race, the longs are holding together but not happy, only one has exploded that I can remember, and we believe the bells/balls have crushed some on the housing.

40s compliment a 40 very well, its not a very big truck.

I'm seeing d60s really cheep, dammit, not sure if I want the weight

I don't think Andy is racing the truck or will be pushing it to that level, but that's my assumption.

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by PKP80

I don't think Andy is racing the truck or will be pushing it to that level, but that's my assumption.

LOL-Not racing the truck. I just want bulletproof. I like the idea of a truck I can piece together off of Craig's List.

This discussion has been extremely helpful to me. I am surprised more people don't use 14 bolts.

[bustanutley]

Originally Posted by PKP80

I don't think Andy is racing the truck or will be pushing it to that level, but that's my assumption.

Just filling in the mis-information. High pinon 8" diffs are weak however, Ben isn't the only killing those diffs in our group.

[t wrecks]

Originally Posted by Cruiserdrew

This discussion has been extremely helpful to me. I am surprised more people don't use 14 bolts.

Dude, LOTs of people are using FF 14bolt axles in every type of vehicle being modified and built. I would rather have to back up a few times on the trail and get a better line then spend tons of cash to build an axle that would match the 14b in strength. And if you cant back up, throttle out! Its very unlikely you will break it. The only reason I didnt use one is I found a 74" wide d70hd locally and cheap that I can use to run my H1 rims.

[fj40charles]

Originally Posted by t wrecks

Dude, LOTs of people are using FF 14bolt axles in every type of vehicle being modified and built. I would rather have to back up a few times on the trail and get a better line then spend tons of cash to build an axle that would match the 14b in strength. And if you cant back up, throttle out! Its very unlikely you will break it. The only reason I didnt use one is I found a 74" wide d70hd locally and cheap that I can use to run my H1 rims.

I agree partially with this statement. There are times when you don't have the option of backing out. You have one shot doing an obstacle.

I would rather spend the money to get the axle you want than to regret it later.

[t wrecks]

I guess what you say about getting what you want is the best way to decide. It all depends on your personal opinion and what makes you happy. When I look under someones rig and see a 14bolt think strength and cost effective, good choice. Someone else that looks at the same rig and thinks "thats gonna get hung up on everything" probably should not consider using this axle in their own rig unless they plan on doing some shaving off the housing.

[Sputnik40]

Originally Posted by mookie

it sounds like a solid plan.....i hope that you will start a new thread about it, i'm really interested in doing the front axle extension as well as seeing the mods you make to the 14 bolt

I'll have a build thread when I've collecting most of the parts, but I doubt it'll be anywhere near as good as Freds40 build pages - read the 14 bolt portion and it answered most of the remaining questions I had on what I want to do....

[t wrecks]

Originally Posted by freds40

Just rework a set of 14 bolt hubs for 6 lug. That's what I did on my FJ60.

Does the 6 lug rim fit over the hub or does the hub hole need to be enlarged?

[4x4Poet]

For the rear axle, how 'bout using an Eaton H052 FF axle out of a 67-72 GMC/Chevy truck?

Mounting "hole" for drop out 3rd is already offset to center in the truck the offset pinion. Swap the housing around, stick the 3rd out the back that is now the front and Whalla! Instant offset axle for <$200.

And the H052 WMS track width is less than 14bFFs by and inch or three.

You'd have to weld shock tabs but you'd probably have to do that anyway. Besides, the entire H052 housing is steel, so any bracket is possible like for link suspensions.

Add used, original H052 17-spline No Spin for <$300. Or go with a used or new 14bFF detroit lockers that fit in H052 carrier but its 30=spline side gears require the use of 14bFF axles (stock or aftermarket) with ends trimmed ~1/4 inch to fit narrower H052 housing without the splined ends bottoming out in the carrier.

Add disc brakes for $300 to $600 depending on what you source locally or used. Ruff Stuff sells H052 specific RDB brackets for near same cost as for 14bFFs.

Oh, and a H052 axle is much lighter that a 14bFF.

[mookie]

if you grind that lip off of the bottom of the 14 bolt and run at least 42's the clearance isn't that bad from what i've seen

interesting idea about the eaton....how do they compare in strength to a 14 bolt?

[Mace]

Eatons are pretty much bulletproof. Think of a 9" on steroids..

The problem with them is that there is essentially no aftermarket support for them anymore.

Awesome axle, but has a lot of shortfalls... (gearing for example)

[Sputnik40]

Would love to see more examples of what others are running - in all price ranges. I only get to the "good" trails a few times a year - and often I don't get a chance to see too many of the most up to date buggies...

As far as my budget is concerned - I can't seem to be beat the 14 bolt - but am not too excited about all the weight (even after dumping the drums for discs). Am planning to run with a group to Moab next year - and need to get this right the first time.

Havn't seen too many posts on 9" rears - or 609 hybrids, or other custom axles using anything with a stronger pinion, and any manner of axle upgrades with aftermarket or broached side gears.

[freds40]

My initial axle build was going to consist of a Cruiser center section with 14 bolt outers. Broached 35 spline side gears with custom shafts. Needless to say the budget for that versus what I did do was a fair amount steeper. Also I figured if I was going to go through the effort of a stronger axle, I might as well have a stronger center section.

[mookie]

are stock ford 9's full floater axles or semi? and what spline/diameter axle shafts came in them?

[freds40]

9" axles are semi float and came in either 28 or 31 spline configurations.

[Domek]

I went ahead and put a 14 bolt FF SOA under my 40 w/ the stock cruiser front axel in SUA.

I am doing research for the front too. Undecided on a Dana 60 or extend the 40 front axel(sleeve) or throw in a stock FJ60 plus 2" 8 lug adapters since I already have the 8 lug wheels.

The truck has a wide ass and a narrow front, this is including the 2" 8 lug wheel adapters. I think I am about 1.5" ~ short from the rear end.

I drove it at the superlift off road park in hot springs AR and found out that my 37s' are not tall enough for my 14 bolt I dragged the 14 bolt and busted the pinion seal.

I did shave the 14 bolt but not as much as Fred's 40.

I will have to shave the 14 bolt a lil' more this weekend since I am working on pinion seal (it leaks) and my rear driveshaft, which I broke.

My front axel it's bone stock and prolly the original internals since 1979, and it's a live, a lil' loosy on the gears, but works.

My alternatives are the ones mentioned above. What I understans is that all the options are not strong enough on a stock form.

All those options have to be upgraded in order to last longer, not to mention the weight added if the D60 goes under.

So how does the weight of the dana 60 compares to the FJ40 and FJ 60 axel?

I am planning of upgrading my tires to 40's or 39's

[bustanutley]

Weight of a front D60 is ~520lbs