[chicago]

Alright lady's and gentlemen....
Im Chicago (Keith), and Im a CRUSIER'holic! I live in Reno, NV.
My addiction started with an 88 FJ62. I built it myself and over the past 4 years have come to feel that its just TOO BIG and TOO HEAVY of a rig for the trail that I like to do most.
So here is the "NEW" build.

A Bruised and mechanically HACKED 76 FJ40
The plans are:
01, 5.3L vortec (49K)
02 4L60 E trans
NP203 to 19 spline dual case
Frame off and rattle can paint
SOA/' WB stretch
62 springs/ axels
Iron pig cage
35's or poss. 37
PS install (of course)
Poss. RDB conv.
and a general overall FRESHENING UP of the rig.

This will most likely take a while as there is still LOTS of money to spend and preliminary work to do.

I got the rig pretty cheap, and its a MESS!
there must be a YARD of dirt and debris within the tub and frame rails.
Im already cursing the PO from some of the crap that has been done to this rig. Every little bit has been a surprise.

Please feel free to chime in with questions, concerns, suggestions or obscenities as all are welcome.

Started the dis assembling the rig. Got the rear cargo floor out (diamond plate riveted in) pulled the seats, pulled the front clip in efforts to free the motor...just general dis assembly at this point.

Here are some pics.

Thanks,

Chicago

[chicago]

More pics...
What a MESS!

[chicago]

Some more.
BTW, this is my first 40, so...I basically know nothing about em. So any wisdom to impart that may make things go easier...
FEEL FREE!

[chicago]

BTW, does anyone know what can be eliminated from the factory wiring harness? Im kinda tracing down the wiring so I can get a good idea of what goes to what, and Id sure like to get rid of some shit if I could to make it cleaner.

Chicago

[Butt Ugly Chuck]

Was wondering when this thread would show up. Enjoyed your other build and am looking forward to this one.

PM D'Animal. He recently spent some time deep in wiring harness and can probably save you some headache.

Butt

[chicago]

Originally Posted by Butt Ugly Chuck

Was wondering when this thread would show up. Enjoyed your other build and am looking forward to this one.

PM D'Animal. He recently spent some time deep in wiring harness and can probably save you some headache.

Butt

Thanks brotha!
Im excited to see what comes of this. I just hope it will RUN when all is said and done.
Never done ANYTHING like this, so it will be a learning experience for sure.
Just getting in and dismantling what I have, Ive figured a lot out.
Right now, I just cant wait to get it all cleaned up and get organized.

[D'Animal]

I can assist you with the wiring.

I eliminated about 80' of it from my harness when I got rid of all the emission control items and a few other things. I bought the harness connectors from Summit Racing for all of my waterproof electrical connectors. It is called the Weather Pack Starter Kit # SUM-900403

The Haynes manual is the most helpful of any of them. This is going to sound sill but look at the manual and see what harness you have before you start cutting. My 1976 federal had a 1977 harness in it. You will spend a lot of time looking for the RL wires (1976) when they are really LR (1977).

[GLTHFJ60]

loss of a sweet 62, but reborn in a sweet 40

I'm excited for this build as well. Outboarding the springs for the 62 axles?

[calfj60]

really enjoyed reading your build thread of the 62...you will learn a ton with this project also...

I will be more than happy to jump in and offer any advice on the split case 203 combo that I can...after all I had mine apart more times than I can think of or wish to admit too...

I think I could rebuild a split case in the dark...so ask away when you get to that stage...

[CRWLNRX]

Wow, thats awesome. Your a 40 guy now. If you have any questions, feel free to ask me, and then I'll just ask Georg for the answer and take the credit

[sandrat62]

Keith..I will take the blame. When I let you drive my 40 over to the restroom kiosk at the 2008 SurfnTurf you came back a changed man ( And lighter too!) lol

[rusty_tlc]

Originally Posted by sandrat62

Keith..I will take the blame. When I let you drive my 40 over to the restroom kiosk at the 2008 SurfnTurf you came back a changed man ( And lighter too!) lol

I think it was doing Rubicon this spring and watching all us guys in 40's dance over the rocks.



BTW Keith was saying I owe you some shop time for all the stuff you weld for me. Let me know if you want me to come by and spend an afternoon helping.

[chicago]

You guyz are FRIGGIN HILARIOUS!

Matt....WTF on the NO 45 run man!?

CalFJ60...I have one question right off the bat...I scrapped all the needle bearing with the chain box. I read somewhere youll NEED some of those? If that is true, Im FAWKED!
You know anything about it?
Would you mind posting some pics of your linkage?
What issues were you having r/t the 203 that required you to disassemble so many times?
Id like to avoid that if I could!
Thanks for the props on the blotch rig build. Your skill are to be admired as well from what Ive seen.

Rusty...
Your wife rocks...I dont care what you say about her!
Ill be needing your help for sure to figure this wiring mess out, and to help me splice this crap together. Youll be making up the time, I guarantee it!

[chicago]

Right now ive been pulling the factory harness, which I believe would make for some boring photos. Every little bit is like christmas though...I never know what Im gonna get.
There are a few rogue plugs that are homeless...not sure what they are or where they go. Ive been labeling everything that I D/C. Ill pull the whole thing out, and most likely try and trace each wire out to see where it goes and what it does and can hopefully eliminate much of it. Im not too sure what Ill need of the old harness. Im assuming the inst. gauge wires, lights, blinkers and such. Im considering the Summit fuse block that d'animal recommended to sort of re build the factory harness, however, Ill need to research that further.

If anyone has any info on this, please post up. This is the crap that worries me the most.

Thanks,

Chicago

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by chicago

CalFJ60...I have one question right off the bat...I scrapped all the needle bearing with the chain box. I read somewhere youll NEED some of those? If that is true, Im FAWKED!
You know anything about it?
Would you mind posting some pics of your linkage?
What issues were you having r/t the 203 that required you to disassemble so many times?
Id like to avoid that if I could!
Thanks for the props on the blotch rig build. Your skill are to be admired as well from what Ive seen.

:

You don't need the needle bearings from the chain box, but you do need the needle bearing from the idler shaft of the reduction box. If you did not disassemble those, they should still be there.

What input gear does your 203 have? Mine had the 27 spline one for th350, so if/when I get around to building it up, I'll need a new input gear-available from Northwest Fab. Hopefully you have the right one for the tranny you are using.

I assume you know about the Adapter from Jerry Nichols for the split case hook up. Boots4 has a great section on this.

Just remember you are going to end up with a really long drivetrain. That's why I suggested you go with a manual transmission. If you have room for all of this and the adapters, then more power to ya!

I'm sure this will be an epic build thread.

[chicago]

Originally Posted by Cruiserdrew

You don't need the needle bearings from the chain box, but you do need the needle bearing from the idler shaft of the reduction box. If you did not disassemble those, they should still be there.

What input gear does your 203 have? Mine had the 27 spline one for th350, so if/when I get around to building it up, I'll need a new input gear-available from Northwest Fab. Hopefully you have the right one for the tranny you are using.

I assume you know about the Adapter from Jerry Nichols for the split case hook up. Boots4 has a great section on this.

Just remember you are going to end up with a really long drivetrain. That's why I suggested you go with a manual transmission. If you have room for all of this and the adapters, then more power to ya!

I'm sure this will be an epic build thread.

Thanks Andy,
I went back and re read the write up in the tech section, and that was for the 40 t case. However, I wasnt aware that the idler shaft had them...
I havent done a thing since I disassembled the 203, so Im hoping that its still there. Not sure on the splines for that, but it was for a TH350.
Ive been eyein that Jerry Nichols adapter since I started collecting parts.
I am actually concerned about whether or not this is all going to fit, but Im sure gonna try and make it fit.
Im hoping that I can push the motor forward far enough, and stretch the wheel base long enough that Ill be able to make it work.
I did go back and check on the cost for running the SM465, and the BH alone was over 500 bucks. I just dont think that Id get what I have into that trans back out to make it worth while, let alone someone to buy it. I also have the 6 to 4 adapter, VSS and reluctor ring from AA. As I said, Ill do that if this just ISNT going to work.
Time will tell though.
On that topic, what springs are the best for optimizing the length?

Keith

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by chicago

On that topic, what springs are the best for optimizing the length?

Keith

I don't know. If you run your FJ62 springs, you add about 4 inches and it's extremely easy. More than that, you run out of real estate fast, unless you extend the rear of the frame.

I saw a coil spring 40 with the axle way back, that might be an option.


Here's a thought--chop the 62-take off the entire rear, the roof, build a cool cage and make a Ute out of it. Then you have the wheelbase for this drive train and the decreased weight/mass you want. You could even put the 40 body on it.

[GLTHFJ60]

Originally Posted by Cruiserdrew

Here's a thought--chop the 62-take off the entire rear, the roof, build a cool cage and make a Ute out of it. Then you have the wheelbase for this drive train and the decreased weight/mass you want. You could even put the 40 body on it.

This man is brilliant. Stick the 40 body on the 62 with a dovetailed bed. That would be BADASS!

[rusty_tlc]

Originally Posted by Cruiserdrew

I don't know. If you run your FJ62 springs, you add about 4 inches and it's extremely easy. More than that, you run out of real estate fast, unless you extend the rear of the frame.

I saw a coil spring 40 with the axle way back, that might be an option.


Here's a thought--chop the 62-take off the entire rear, the roof, build a cool cage and make a Ute out of it. Then you have the wheelbase for this drive train and the decreased weight/mass you want. You could even put the 40 body on it.

A 4 link coil rear suspension would kick ass. I have some ideas on how to do it with out mortgaging the homestead. Most of the cost of that type of suspension is in fabrication, if a guy has fab skilz .........

[chicago]

K.I.S.S

Ill try what I have.
I did some measurements last night...without the 203 to split case adapter, the length of the vortec (from the tip of the fan to the aft face of the block), 4L60E, 700R adapter, 6 to 4 bolt adapter and the split case, the total length is 48 in right now.

Pretty damn long, but...I want to measure against the drive train that is in 40 NOW and see where she falls.

Ill do that tomorrow noc.

K

[chicago]

Originally Posted by rusty_tlc

A 4 link coil rear suspension would kick ass. I have some ideas on how to do it with out mortgaging the homestead. Most of the cost of that type of suspension is in fabrication, if a guy has fab skilz .........

MAN...I wish I knew someone like that!!!!!!!

[chicago]

Originally Posted by Cruiserdrew

I don't know. If you run your FJ62 springs, you add about 4 inches and it's extremely easy. More than that, you run out of real estate fast, unless you extend the rear of the frame.

I saw a coil spring 40 with the axle way back, that might be an option.


Here's a thought--chop the 62-take off the entire rear, the roof, build a cool cage and make a Ute out of it. Then you have the wheelbase for this drive train and the decreased weight/mass you want. You could even put the 40 body on it.

I had thought about this issue for a better part of this morning driving into work...
IF the drive train is just too long and I absolutely can not fit it in by flipping springs and and such, I will extend the rear of the frame and stretch the tub accordingly. I shouldnt be TOO much extra that Ill need.
BTW, before I went and picked up the 40...I pitched the chop you were proposing to the wife...NO LIKEY!!!!!
I was set on it actually, but she just did NOT DIG me chopping the blotch rig like that. She said that it looked "white trash".

Whaddya do?
If the wifes not happy....

K

[rusty_tlc]

Originally Posted by chicago

MAN...I wish I knew someone like that!!!!!!!

[Mace]

Originally Posted by chicago

On that topic, what springs are the best for optimizing the length?

Keith

links..

You want the rear specs from my 40? It sits low and is VERY stable.

Also, dump the stock wiring. ezwiring.com

I'll do whatever I can to help amigo.

[Mace]

Originally Posted by chicago

K.I.S.S

Ill try what I have.
I did some measurements last night...without the 203 to split case adapter, the length of the vortec (from the tip of the fan to the aft face of the block), 4L60E, 700R adapter, 6 to 4 bolt adapter and the split case, the total length is 48 in right now.

Pretty damn long, but...I want to measure against the drive train that is in 40 NOW and see where she falls.

Ill do that tomorrow noc.

K

I'll measure my drivetrain. SM420 and dual mini tcases cannot be that much longer.

[D'Animal]

Use ladders. No really, you can lay everything out and easily remove and strip the old tape off. Be she to check the white wire with the black strip for "Hot Spots". It is the ground.

Use 3M Super 88 or Super 35 electrical tape when putting it back together.

Or do what Mace recommended and replace the harness.

Originally Posted by chicago

Right now ive been pulling the factory harness, which I believe would make for some boring photos. Every little bit is like christmas though...I never know what Im gonna get.
There are a few rogue plugs that are homeless...not sure what they are or where they go. Ive been labeling everything that I D/C. Ill pull the whole thing out, and most likely try and trace each wire out to see where it goes and what it does and can hopefully eliminate much of it. Im not too sure what Ill need of the old harness. Im assuming the inst. gauge wires, lights, blinkers and such. Im considering the Summit fuse block that d'animal recommended to sort of re build the factory harness, however, Ill need to research that further.

If anyone has any info on this, please post up. This is the crap that worries me the most.

Thanks,

Chicago

The Summit # I posted was for the waterproof connector kit. It has 1 plug, 2 plug, 3 plug and 4 plug connectors and all of the hardware.

[chicago]

Thanks gents!
A ladder....that is actually a great idea d'animal. I got the harness completely pulled last night. Labeled everything that was connected.
Mace, Ill check out that ezwiring.com. Rusty TLC said that if he had the time hed redo the factory harness too. 30+ years of exposure and vibration.
After getting it all out, it doesnt LOOK to be all that intimidating. Seems that it'd just be more time consuming than anything.
I still have yet to decide on the Vortec harness and wether or not I want to do it myself, or get one re worked, or gram one from howell. Since Im not a skilled electritian...Im leery about doing it myself, but I do have a friend close by who is an electrical engineer that may be able to help me with the task....
BTW, I measured the stock 40 gear that is in the rig, last noc...it is actually LONGER (53 in) than the 48 in of the vortec set up? Im only missing the 203 to 1 sp adapter to add to that measurement. Ill have to double check that, but...

Here are some pics of whats been done.
I appreciate the help anywhere I can get it. Ive never done this extensive of a job before, so Im a bit nervous to say the least, but Im having a blast already.


wiring harness
front clip off
wiring harness out

[Mace]

Whatcha doing with the 4 speed tranny and tcase? btw??

[chicago]

Originally Posted by Mace

Whatcha doing with the 4 speed tranny and tcase? btw??

Its actually going BACK to the guy that I got it from.
I told him that I didnt need it, he mentioned that he wouldnt mind keeping it, so I haggled down the price a bit with the condition that I give it back to him.
He wanted it for a spare for the neglected project 40 in his garage...If you wanted, I could see if he would want to give it up. Honestly, I think he'd rather have had the cash. I think the difference was 150 bucks.

Are you interested?

K

[chicago]

No work today....
I actually HAD to work on my dautghters HEEP grand cherokee Loraedo and replace the radiator...
What a FRIGGIN PITA!
Its not so bad except for the damn fan shroud. There is NO easy way to get that Fing thing outta there. Ive been in and out of it so many times with various coolant leaks, that I actually cut the botton of the shroud out to make it a bit easier. Well, this time around it got its revenge and snapped in half.
For the time being, I red necked it together...drilled a couple of holes in it, and ZIP TIED that BEOTCH together.
It was acutally pretty solid. Ill have to look around for another though.

Chicago