[rusty_tlc]

In the industry we use a sheet of plywood to build big wiring harnesses.
I'd pin the old harness up on a sheet of OSB like a frog in HS biology lab.
If you want to re-work the old one it will be a lot easier, if you want to build a new one you can use the old one as a guide to get lengths right etc. with out doing a point to point, if you us an after market harness you can match stuff up and make whatever mods are needed easier than with it in the rig.

I just picked up a piece of OSB for $7 and change at Home Depot today.

[Mace]

Possibly, My brother 72 needs an updated tranny/tcase

[chicago]

Originally Posted by rusty_tlc

In the industry we use a sheet of plywood to build big wiring harnesses.
I'd pin the old harness up on a sheet of OSB like a frog in HS biology lab.
If you want to re-work the old one it will be a lot easier, if you want to build a new one you can use the old one as a guide to get lengths right etc. with out doing a point to point, if you us an after market harness you can match stuff up and make whatever mods are needed easier than with it in the rig.

I just picked up a piece of OSB for $7 and change at Home Depot today.

That is one option I was considering, was un winding the loom, and cutting and pasting (essentially) the stuff I need. Id have the opportunity to check the wires, and then customize it for what I need and do not. Id have to wait (I think) till I get further along with the chevy stuff in place to be able to match the plugs. Lots of it will be on the chevy harness, to chevy stuff (as best I can tell), but its gettnig the toy to chevy connections Im concerned with. That, and I dont know what the hell Im doing.
I liked HS bio...College was better though. Pig eyes, cats, cadavers. Good stuff.

[Mace]

Or, $155 for a brand new harness....

Stock 30 year old wiring tends to leave a bit to be desired IMHO..





It depends on how much time you have tho.. If you have a lot of time. Reworking the factor harness may be the best option.

The EZ wiring for turn signals is complicated..

[rusty_tlc]

How complicated could the turn signal stuff be? Other than the European vs American turn brake convention difference. They make a box that converts the signals to the 'Merican standard.

[Mace]

Originally Posted by rusty_tlc

How complicated could the turn signal stuff be? Other than the European vs American turn brake convention difference. They make a box that converts the signals to the 'Merican standard.

Complicated is not the right term. It is a fairly easy fix, but if you are not expecting it, can be a bit confusing.

[chicago]

Link to EZwire mace posted.

Wiring Harness

These are the hanresses.

Which did you use?
So I know...you take the ez harness (or factory harness), run it out to its desired locations, and match, cut and splice the plugs as needed and voila?
Im guessing that the ez wire harness would not match the crusier plug ends and hence the question.
Just trying to get a handle on the process, as Ive never done this before.

[Mace]

I used the 20 circuit. Pretty damn silly with my 40 I wish I had done the 12 circuit.

[Kofoed]

Originally Posted by chicago

Link to EZwire mace posted.

Wiring Harness

These are the hanresses.

Which did you use?
So I know...you take the ez harness (or factory harness), run it out to its desired locations, and match, cut and splice the plugs as needed and voila?
Im guessing that the ez wire harness would not match the crusier plug ends and hence the question.
Just trying to get a handle on the process, as Ive never done this before.

I'd do this:

Wiring Kits

502C12

A little cheaper than EZ, and way cheaper than Painless, Centech, Route.

It has a covered fuse block. I've seen the kit in person, it's pretty complete for a 40 application. These guys, Enos, and the other street rod vendors have all the stuff for building a custom vehicle--think about it.

[chicago]

Originally Posted by Kofoed

I'd do this:

Wiring Kits

502C12

A little cheaper than EZ, and way cheaper than Painless, Centech, Route.

It has a covered fuse block. I've seen the kit in person, it's pretty complete for a 40 application. These guys, Enos, and the other street rod vendors have all the stuff for building a custom vehicle--think about it.

Good one!
So, if I didnt NEED something, I didnt have to use it, would I? Or, I could potentially use it for something else?

K

[Kofoed]

Originally Posted by chicago

Good one!
So, if I didnt NEED something, I didnt have to use it, would I? Or, I could potentially use it for something else?

K

If you are looking to replace the entire harness, or most of it, this is the way to go. It comes with the high temp wiring, color coded and labeled for the component every five inches, head light plugs, etc. Better than getting a fuse block and then buying a bunch of wire, IMO. This is the route I will eventually go, though my harness is REALLY butchered and hacked-up (with a lot of those stupid connectors you push into the insulation )

So, if you don't need circuit, zip tie the wire out of the way for future use

[Mace]

Originally Posted by Kofoed

If you are looking to replace the entire harness, or most of it, this is the way to go. It comes with the high temp wiring, color coded and labeled for the component every five inches, head light plugs, etc. Better than getting a fuse block and then buying a bunch of wire, IMO. This is the route I will eventually go, though my harness is REALLY butchered and hacked-up (with a lot of those stupid connectors you push into the insulation )

So, if you don't need circuit, zip tie the wire out of the way for future use

Pretty much identical to EZ wiring..

Except for the cover, that part is nice

[chicago]

That'll be the route that I take for that part of the build then.
As of right now, the tub is ALMOST free from the chassi.
Ive only been able to spend a couple hours here and there working on the rig, aside from other things in my life that I have to do...work, family, house and a door chop that I am doing for another 40 owner.
Ive gotten all the dash stuff OUT, wiring harness OUT, MOST of the bolts from the frame to tub except TWO...the most forward body mount bolts I CAN NOT seem to break free!?!?! Ive soaked those bithces for 2 days, and they will not budge, and I dont necessarily wanna break em either. Tried some heat last noc, and nothing. Are those bolts that I can afford to break off? Are the nuts inside of the frame? Cant quite tell.
On another note, WHERE do people typically chop the rear 1/4's?
Id like to chop out quite a bit so it will actually wrap around?

Here is the rust Im dealing with after I smashed out an inch of bondo and a few tin cans the PO used as backing....

[GLTHFJ60]

Originally Posted by chicago

That'll be the route that I take for that part of the build then.
As of right now, the tub is ALMOST free from the chassi.
Ive only been able to spend a couple hours here and there working on the rig, aside from other things in my life that I have to do...work, family, house and a door chop that I am doing for another 40 owner.
Ive gotten all the dash stuff OUT, wiring harness OUT, MOST of the bolts from the frame to tub except TWO...the most forward body mount bolts I CAN NOT seem to break free!?!?! Ive soaked those bithces for 2 days, and they will not budge, and I dont necessarily wanna break em either. Tried some heat last noc, and nothing. Are those bolts that I can afford to break off? Are the nuts inside of the frame? Cant quite tell.
On another note, WHERE do people typically chop the rear 1/4's?
Id like to chop out quite a bit so it will actually wrap around?

Here is the rust Im dealing with after I smashed out an inch of bondo and a few tin cans the PO used as backing....

Ouch. Time for some new quarter skins!

[rusty_tlc]

IIRC there are captive nuts inside the frame for all the body mounts. Try to get some PB Blaster inside on the exposed threads if you can.

You can also try hitting them with an impact wrench. Let me know if you need to borrow mine.

[chicago]

Originally Posted by rusty_tlc

IIRC there are captive nuts inside the frame for all the body mounts. Try to get some PB Blaster inside on the exposed threads if you can.

You can also try hitting them with an impact wrench. Let me know if you need to borrow mine.

Thanks Rusty,
Its a really SMALL gap, so I really cant see much of anything in there. Its the same bolts on both PS and DS.
Ill try the impact tonight, maybe that will break it free.

K

[Mace]

Key word is "Break"


Drill and retap. PITA, but commonly the easiest way to deal

[rusty_tlc]

Originally Posted by Mace

Key word is "Break"


Drill and retap. PITA, but commonly the easiest way to deal

I've never gotten any of mine lose, are these the type that are welded to the frame or loose in a cage dealio?
The ones in a cage are a biotch to drill and tap.

[Mace]

Are the ones you are fighting right under the Drivers/Passengers floorboard? They connect to the support for the side steps?


BTW, If you are mounting the cage to the frame, body mounts are kinda redundant anyway

[chicago]

Originally Posted by Mace

Are the ones you are fighting right under the Drivers/Passengers floorboard? They connect to the support for the side steps?


BTW, If you are mounting the cage to the frame, body mounts are kinda redundant anyway

Yes.
All are loose except TWO, the same ones on each side.
They are the most forward 2 body mount bolts, and it appears that there is a metal bracket that is in sort of a "C" shape that the bolt runs thorugh the center of. It is twisting as I am appling force to the bolt.
SOOOOO CLOSE, yet...SOOO FAAAAAR!
The cage WILL mount to the frame.
Once the tub is off, the real work can begin.
Pull the current drive train, clean the frame real nice, then set the vortec set up.....
SOOOOO FRIGGIN EXCITED!

Speaking of....Still havent decided on what to do with the harness...
Theyre pretty spendy for a custom made jobber, but Im thinking that I MIGHT NOT mind having the piece of mind having a properly built harness to run this thing on.
Anyone have any suggestions on this.
How is re working a harness (Factory)? This would be the most fiscally responsable...
How about the emissions stuff?
I can register it in Carson City where I dont need the smog, but Id like to prepare for the upcoming nazi smog laws too.

Thanks,

Chicago

[Mace]

the last two, kill them. You'll have a support fromthe cage to the frame there any way..

With Rusty helping you, reworking the factory harness will work. He'll tell you if something is not up to par..

If you want the swap to be legal in the state of Nevada, you need to have all of the smog equipment necessary for that motor. Smog pump, cats, everything... It no longer matters what emissions it had in it, but what you put into it.

You need to run the engine block numbers and see what other vehicles that motor came in. then choose which one you want to "say" the motor came out of (typicaly, the easiest one to smog).

to do the title, it must have the smog stuff on it.

You are going to have to smog it later on in life anyway, you might as well have the nazis permission to begin with

[chicago]

I had a few spare minutes last noc...
Got ONE of the tub bolts FREEEEEE!
Made a HELL of a racket...

K

[chicago]

Originally Posted by Mace

the last two, kill them. You'll have a support fromthe cage to the frame there any way..

With Rusty helping you, reworking the factory harness will work. He'll tell you if something is not up to par..

If you want the swap to be legal in the state of Nevada, you need to have all of the smog equipment necessary for that motor. Smog pump, cats, everything... It no longer matters what emissions it had in it, but what you put into it.

You need to run the engine block numbers and see what other vehicles that motor came in. then choose which one you want to "say" the motor came out of (typicaly, the easiest one to smog).

to do the title, it must have the smog stuff on it.

You are going to have to smog it later on in life anyway, you might as well have the nazis permission to begin with

That is kind of how I was looking at the emissions...I figure there is just no way out of it at this point.
Best I can tell, Ill need the O2's, cats, charcoal canister and EGR.
Ill have to confer with the DMV on this to find out the final POOP.
The motor is out of an 01 GMC 1500. I have the title for the 40.

On a side note...my wife got my dog some new treats (He's laying down right next to me)...HOLY CHRIST! What a GASSY BASTARD!

[Mace]

DON'T LIGHT A MATCH!!!!!!!


I know how much you like the crack pipe..

(air pump?)

[rusty_tlc]

Originally Posted by chicago

That is kind of how I was looking at the emissions...I figure there is just no way out of it at this point.
Best I can tell, Ill need the O2's, cats, charcoal canister and EGR.
Ill have to confer with the DMV on this to find out the final POOP.
The motor is out of an 01 GMC 1500. I have the title for the 40.

On a side note...my wife got my dog some new treats (He's laying down right next to me)...HOLY CHRIST! What a GASSY BASTARD!

Gunner with gas,

[Mikesta]

Sub - SCRIBED

wow thats a serious hole in your tub! Was it wrecked or did someone pour salt on it? Have you been pulling from your parts pile yet?

[chicago]

Originally Posted by Mikesta

Sub - SCRIBED

wow thats a serious hole in your tub! Was it wrecked or did someone pour salt on it? Have you been pulling from your parts pile yet?

Mikesta,
Thanks for checking in over here. Since youre miles ahead of me on yours, you experience would be helpful on this.
This rig wasnt wrecked, it just RUSTED...However, I think it'll buff out!
Im gonna have to do a lot of sheet metal work on the rear 1/4's as well the rear fender well box deals. I have some experience with this type of work already as my 62 was a rusted mess too (tub wise), so this will be an easy fix. Plus, a lot of it is gonna get chopped out for the WB stretch.
Im still in the rig exploration, tear down and clean up phase of the build. Almost ready to pull the tub. Im still looking to find a cherry picker up off craigs list, and as soon as I find that, my efforts will increase. So the parts pile (the 62) is still and tact and wheeling, and the vortec pile is growing.
Ive been stealing some of the execution ideas that you have employed...like the (what I thought) moving dollies for the tub and such.

Glad you chimed in!

Chicago

[rusty_tlc]

Have you given any thought to doing a 4-link rear suspension? I did a lot of research on it and it isn't nearly as difficult or as expensive as you might think. I just need the $$ and time to do mine.

I think it is probably THE BEST way to extend the wheel base. Plus you get a lot of options on suspension set up that you can change with little or no expense or time investment.

[Mikesta]

Originally Posted by rusty_tlc

Have you given any thought to doing a 4-link rear suspension? I did a lot of research on it and it isn't nearly as difficult or as expensive as you might think. I just need the $$ and time to do mine.

I think it is probably THE BEST way to extend the wheel base. Plus you get a lot of options on suspension set up that you can change with little or no expense or time investment.

x 2 on that. Do a Spring over up front and you have highway stability as well when you run heavier dutier Coils in the back. And I hear swapping those out is a cinch. Flex your rig out on each side (after removing the straps) and put in heavier coils. Drive it to the trail, Flex, repeat with softer coils.

[Mace]

He's thought about it