SteelArts BJ42 Landcruiser Build

SteelArt · 09-19-09, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mace

body roll is one of the issues..

I am guessing that you are talking in relation to running the coil overs inboard yeah ?

If so I am not concerned as the spring and dampening rate will fix that. Yes shocks are less effective on an angle due to that geometry stuff but as long as spring and shock rates are matched I don't see any real effect.

Besides it is a cruiser with lift and bigger tyres and no sway bars (ATM) so it was always destine for body roll if I want articulation.

Mt buggy has shocks on around 20 degrees and it don't have any body roll issues.

Have you had experience to the contrary ?

Reason I ask is that I have had a few people comment but when it comes down to it they have never actually done it or known anyone who has so I can’t see what they are basing their comments on.

That being said I am sure there are some people in the USA who have done it, not to many people down here who have coil overs yet alone have setup multiple sets.

SteelArt · 09-19-09, 05:12 PM

When you look at it when it is sitting flat it isn't on that much of an angle so the issue will be more to do with the leverage generated by being closer to the centre line of the diff I would think and then we really are talking about a spring rate fix rather than a sway bar.

Mace · 09-19-09, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteelArt

I am guessing that you are talking in relation to running the coil overs inboard yeah ?

If so I am not concerned as the spring and dampening rate will fix that. Yes shocks are less effective on an angle due to that geometry stuff but as long as spring and shock rates are matched I don't see any real effect.

Besides it is a cruiser with lift and bigger tyres and no sway bars (ATM) so it was always destine for body roll if I want articulation.

Mt buggy has shocks on around 20 degrees and it don't have any body roll issues.

Have you had experience to the contrary ?

Reason I ask is that I have had a few people comment but when it comes down to it they have never actually done it or known anyone who has so I can’t see what they are basing their comments on.

That being said I am sure there are some people in the USA who have done it, not to many people down here who have coil overs yet alone have setup multiple sets.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteelArt

When you look at it when it is sitting flat it isn't on that much of an angle so the issue will be more to do with the leverage generated by being closer to the centre line of the diff I would think and then we really are talking about a spring rate fix rather than a sway bar.

The angle in the pics is not bad..

It is when you hit 45* at ride height that concerns arise...

SteelArt · 09-19-09, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mace

The angle in the pics is not bad..

It is when you hit 45* at ride height that concerns arise...

I am not sure I follow.

If I hit 45 * at ride height it is fair to say that I will not being going fast yeah ? so dampening will be less of an issue as it is moving slowly which shocks will allow anyway ?

Besides at 45* the other shock will be almost verticle and I can adjust valving on rebound to help out if need be.

Having never run coil overs on anything with a front diff before and this much weight I could be all wrong so any advice would be great.

SteelArt · 10-01-09, 04:45 AM

Ok the build continues. The rear is pretty much done now and work has begun on the front.

The radius arms are in place and the coil over towers have been bent up and fitted to check clearances and setup.

Mace · 10-01-09, 10:09 AM

By inboarding both the top and the bottom of the shock on the axle you are increasing the lever arm on that shock.

Yes you can increase your spring and valving rates to make up for the difference, but then you will ride poorly in a straight line.

If you are comfortable with the body sway, then go right ahead

SteelArt · 10-01-09, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mace

By inboarding both the top and the bottom of the shock on the axle you are increasing the lever arm on that shock.

Yes you can increase your spring and valving rates to make up for the difference, but then you will ride poorly in a straight line.

If you are comfortable with the body sway, then go right ahead

hehe yeah I am comfy with the body sway as I really don't see it as an issue up back with the angles I have.

I guess time will tell, after looking at a lot of rigs on the internet and seeing the body stuff people get away with I doubt I will have any issues.

After all it is a 40 series not a Baja 100 trophy truck and if body roll becomes an issue I will add a rear linked sawy bar to accopmodate and push articulation to the front axle more.

bad_religion_au · 10-03-09, 09:33 AM

body roll will be a concern if your ever going to rego it. every state i know anything about their rego laws will require you to do an emergency swerve test.

SteelArt · 10-04-09, 02:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bad_religion_au

body roll will be a concern if your ever going to rego it. every state i know anything about their rego laws will require you to do an emergency swerve test.

Should be fine, time and testing results will tell I guess. I might end up fitting a rear sway bar setup to it with torsion bar like the jeeps.

It has passed initial inspection without a glitch and yes it will be registered.

SteelArt · 10-06-09, 06:04 AM

Well it is done, just waiting on the coils to be made and then I can begin the body modifications, roll cage, brakes, drive shafts, barwork, rear bar, seats, air con etc ... it just never ends.

I will be upgrading the seating capacity to 4 once the family cage is installed. To do this I am probably going to use a rear fold down seat from a Nissan Patrol as I got one at a good price and it seems to fit ok.

One of the many good things about the new body length is that I will be able to fit my batteries and long range fuel tank in the back under the floor and the Engel fridge behind rear shock towers and still close rear doors.

Should be interesting to see how it all pans out once I start folding sheet.

SteelArt · 10-09-09, 04:51 AM

Well rear end is sorted. Will get some limiting straps added once I have it on the hoist and moving up and down to setup for the rear drive shaft.

Front is sorted, 60 series p/s box is in, 4140 drag link and tie rod ends are on. Custom heavy duty front radius arms are fitted and bump stops sorted. Like the read it will get limiting straps once setup.

SteelArt · 10-09-09, 04:52 AM

Well it is back from the engineer now and Dale has finished his bit. Like most kids once I had it in the carport the first thing I did was clamped the back on it and sat a guard in place to start to get a feel for how it will look once done.

It is amazing how much more room inside it has now .

Hopefully I will get a chance on the weekend to start welding the back end back in place.

Front shock hooes with top brace. 14" shocks just squeezed in ..

kling-on · 10-09-09, 11:26 AM

thats sweet

SteelArt · 10-09-09, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kling-on

thats sweet

Cheers, hopefully it will start looking more like a 40 series again soon once I stich the back on.

SteelArt · 10-10-09, 02:49 AM

Well after trying many different ideas to try and get it to look right, I lost my cool and decided it was just all to hard and I would make it a ute ...

cactus · 10-10-09, 10:59 PM

Lookin' good.

What length wheel base have you ended up with ???

SteelArt · 10-12-09, 02:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cactus

Lookin' good.

What length wheel base have you ended up with ???

104"

Well after trying many different ideas to try and get it to look right, I lost my cool and decided it was just all to hard and I would make it a ute ...

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SteelArt · 10-12-09, 02:02 AM

But then I decided that it would be weak as piss if I went for a ute as the kid would get jack of being tied on the tray. Besides I can't go letting Brooksy be the first to build an extended tub.

So I decided it would be cooler to go with a 4 door instead. I mean how hard can it be to get it looking right :drink:

FJ73 · 10-12-09, 05:23 AM

stick to the 4 door it looks sweet.

SteelArt · 10-12-09, 07:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FJ73

stick to the 4 door it looks sweet.

Yeah it is the option ATM, but man it will eat some hours to press out some short rear skills to match right.

I reckon there will be as many hours in the rear doors as the rest of the body work combined

Clint79 · 10-12-09, 07:39 AM

this is nutzz

cruiserjunkie · 10-12-09, 10:07 AM

Following this its a sweet build

Scottb · 10-12-09, 01:31 PM

I can`t wait to see these 4doors done.

SteelArt · 10-12-09, 04:18 PM

Cheers guys, 4 doors is pretty much a certain and I will confirm this weekend when I mock up a few other variations and make my decision. Biggest issue will be getting it to look right, if I can't get the look then I will have to re-consider my options.

was looking at something like this :

But I don't like the way he has changed the front door and has the larger rear door window. Never been much of a scetchup sort of guy, more a cut and see sort ..

HJ47 · 10-13-09, 12:53 AM

I vote for keeping it a two door for what it's worth. For one thing, how will you remove the top if it is a four door? I think it will look great either way, but a 2 door would just look stupendous.

Cheers,

Josh

SteelArt · 10-13-09, 03:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HJ47

I vote for keeping it a two door for what it's worth. For one thing, how will you remove the top if it is a four door? I think it will look great either way, but a 2 door would just look stupendous.

Cheers,

Josh

The top and doors will still be removable as per normal.

Basically the rear door top hingle will fix to a removable section which will fasten as per the original hard top with the steel tube down the existing piller. It will get strength off an extra mount I will add and the fact it is tied into the roof and other pillars.

Problem with a 2 Door is proprtions, It just didn't look right, not saying 4 doors will but never try, never know.

Besides kids + hard top = 4 doors much better

SteelArt · 10-13-09, 01:43 PM

No much has been happening as I usually only get 1 day a week to even go in the shed, yet alone work on it.

Anyway I have cut the inner guard away from teh floor section so that I can slide it back and re-align it. This has also begun to open up the section where the door and fott well will be.

Next I will cut the pillar section out of an old tub and tack that in place so I can hang the door and begin to fab the foot well and door base.

watrob · 10-15-09, 06:54 AM

Hi SteelArt, what do you think the this 4 door FJ40 hybrid is going to weigh when its finished?

kling-on · 10-15-09, 06:54 AM

thats cool as hell keep it up

SteelArt · 10-15-09, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by watrob

Hi SteelArt, what do you think the this 4 door FJ40 hybrid is going to weigh when its finished?

I would say it will weigh not much more than stock, prob 100kg or so more.

Loosing all teh leaf packs saved some weight althrough the radius arms are prob heavier.

35"s are heavier than stocks.

The increase in ride comfort will be worth any weight gain