[nckrsamford]

I am building a 1971 FJ40. This project has gone from being a frame off restore to a rockwelled rock crawler that my wife hates with a passion! Let me tell you what I am going to do with my cruiser and let the input come forth.

Powertrain
-stock f-type soon to be 472 with 620 hp
-stock 3 speed tranny soon to be th400
-stock t-case soon to be np205

Drivetrain
-front and rear axles are steering rockwells
-Ouverson mini spools in both
-Full Hydaulic steer (front and rear) same set up as Jeremiah Proffits Lizard, minus the auto centering
-Pinnon Brakes from DIY
-2" DOM .375" wall tie rod with 1 1/4" Heims

Suspension
-4 link front with all 2" DOM .250" wall links (uppers and lowers)
-4 link rear same as front
-front - 2.5" FOA remote resevoir coil overs 16" travel
-rear - 2.0" FOA remote resevoir coil overs 18" travel
-all brackets from Ballistic Fab..(top hats, link mounts, coilover mounts)

Protection
-Metal tech full family cage with extra braces
-metal tech bull gaurd and stinger welded to frame
-Boat siding with 1.75" hrew and running fender exo.

Wheels and Tires
-Michelin XL 14.00 x 20 ( 49" tires)
-5 ton military double beadlocks with inserts, recentered to rock pattern. (20" diameter)

This is my first project, besides the build up that I have already done on my cruiser, which was a soa with flipped springs and 39" Irocks. I am not the best welder in the world and I have had most of the welding done by a friend that has welded in a plant for the last 36 years, but the rest I am going to do so hopefully I dont get made fun of too much! This probably wont be the last thread that I do seeing as next year when the new powertrain goes in I am also going to back halve the cruiser.

here is a pic before I get started, more to come.

[JLHEEPETR]

I am going to use .250 DOM links as well, but with 49's and 2.5t axles I would consider doing chromoly links instead and heat treating them. Sounds like an awesome build. Can't wait for more.

[lolo62]

Originally Posted by JLHEEPETR

I am going to use .250 DOM links as well, but with 49's and 2.5t axles I would consider doing chromoly links instead and heat treating them. Sounds like an awesome build. Can't wait for more.

i second that!! btw..there are many far worse hobbies.. why do so many wives hate cruisers?? i just don't understand

[Tofudebeest]

Upside down bezel!!!

[Wile E Coyote]

If this project goes like most every one I've witnessed, whatever $ amount you've told the wife, I hope was double your true estimate.
BTW, holy rear d-shaft angle Batman! How does that sucka ride as it sits now?

[landcruisnman]

If you need help with the material for your links, I have a steel distribution business in SoCal, and I can give you a friends and family price on the material. Let me know what you need and your zip code, and I'll see if I can save you some $$ Whatever it take to keep thehappy

[Weedhopper]

Get her a gift certificate for a manicure and pedicure and you can buy yourself some time.

[GLTHFJ60]

[nckrsamford]

yeah, I know about the bezel, I forgot when I threw it on. haha. I would also be interested in the metal pricing to 77480. The pinnion angle is really far off. It was my first try at any kind of suspension upgrade and my welder friend that has never messed with cars kinda talked me into not going more than 5 deg. past level, which was a bad idea! But you always have a learning curve dont you?! Now that I have done my research maybe it will go a little better this time, keep up all the good info guys, I am going to really need it. starting project next week!

[Dynosoar]

I have a th400 with a splitcase & adapter for sale for way cheap it would be perfect for your project.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/sale-parts/2...plit-case.html


Dynosoar

[nckrsamford]

thanks, but I am going alittle different route. I know I said 205 in my first thread quote but that is only if I dont have enough money for an atlas 4 by the time that I do the engine swap. I am going to mate a 203 gear reduction box in front of it! hopefully that will be low enough gearing! Probably too much but why not go overboard!

[landcruisnman]

Let me know what sizes of mat'l you'd need and what lengths. The shorter the better for shipping costs.

[Eskimo]

Having gone through a similar build -

1- your heim choice for steering is WAY overkill. Rams don't have threads in them that big, they all have 3/4" threads... hence the use of 3/4" heims.. Not to mention, what on the knuckle are you going to put a 1-1/4" bolt through?

2- You're dumping $$ into the build... don't run spools F&R. put a locker at least in the front.

3- use real tires. The military ones don't grip worth a shit. You're using IROK's now, you're taking a huge step backwards.

4- step up the link material just a touch. 2" .25" is marginal. I'm using 2" 7075 for my lowers, but I'm also 25% lighter than you will be, and 7075 is pretty stout stuff in its own right. Going thicker wall or a better material (like CroMo) will serve ya well.

5- That's gonna be one HEEEAAVVVYY cruiser.. make sure your trailer is up to the task. Without a doubt, it's gonna weigh over 6000 lbs., and that's after you ditch the hard top, and back half it.

6- Ruff Stuff has some really stout brackets made from 3/8" - perfect for rocks..

[nckrsamford]

the heims on my tie rod have a 1" bolt hole which will bolt up to the steering knuckle arms which. I will use a bolt that is 1" x 8" long and mount the tie rod under the steering arms and the ram on top with the bolt through them. The lockers are spools and they are already installed, but the reason I have put spools in front and rear is because I have full hydaulic steering front and rear, that means if I cant crawl and turn with front steer only then I can steer with front and rear and get around it. I would really love to have 49" irocks but I just dont have the extra $3000 right now, and I like the fact that it just cost $50 for a tire if I shred it, I know that they dont get alot of traction but that is what a hot knife is for, right? My links are a little chinchy I know, but I have already spent the money on them and welded all the tube adapters on so I will use them until I break them then I will get some chromoly or sleeve them with something rediculous. Its easier to brake something and buy one of it at a time then to go ahead and buy all new stuff when you havent even messed up the stuff you have. I have all of my brackets already, and they came from ballistic, I looked at ruffstuff, but just decided to go with ballistic, because I just liked their stuff better.

[Eskimo]

In your initial post, you said "let the input come forth", as in "Let's have your input". I guess that's not the case? Apparently you've already purchased everything and installed a bunch of stuff.

You'll learn that full hydro doesn't make the vehicle turn, it just turns the tires. Yes, 4ws does make spools somewhat more livable (I've got a spool in my rear axle), but spools in the front axle still bring the suck. Trying to use 4ws at speed is interesting to say the least. But what would I know about that... Fortunately, you can always put in a locker or 2 later.

and no, the hot knife won't help those tires grip, it'll just help the lugs grab.. but grab and grip are 2 different things. But what can ya do... gotta work with what you have.

Lats thing, and I'll just sit back and read... With your weight and wheel&tire weight/size, you may want to start thinking about some 16-spline Cromo shafts, I have a feeling you'll be able to break the stock shafts.

[nckrsamford]

i wasnt dogging on you, promise! i talked with jeremiah proffitt for awhile and I was going to put a detroit in the front but he talked me into the spool because of the front and rear steer. He said that he runs it that way and has had no problems. Most of this build is based on his lizard king. I know he is not the world premier of hard core 4x's but I do know that he puts out some very nice rigs that can handle quite alot. Plus he was the only one that has been building 40's with rocks, buisness wise. I am going to run the stock shafts until they break, then I have one more set of stock 16er's then I will be installing ouverson 2" 47 splines and if I dont like the spool in front then I will change to a detroit. I did like the input and like I said before, i wasnt replying in a harsh way. I dig input from someone else that has put rocks under a 40! thanks.

[R.K.]

You'll probably be replacing the Michelins after your first trip. One of my friend's ran them because they were cheap. He found out why they are so cheap! He was having to winch up trails the rest of us were not having trouble on. He grooved them at the campground after the first day on them, but they still sucked. When he got home, he ordered a set of IROKs.

And if you're running DOM links, I wouldn't run any less that .5" wall on the lowers. My lowers are .5" wall 2" DOM and the uppers are .25" wall 1.75" DOM. The lowers will take a beating on the trail, and have a good part of the weight of the rig on them at times when climbing.

[Eskimo]

Originally Posted by nckrsamford

I am going to run the stock shafts until they break, then I have one more set of stock 16er's then I will be installing ouverson 2" 47 splines and if I dont like the spool in front then I will change to a detroit.

I don't know why so many people overlook the 16-spline CroMo replacement shafts.. They're *quite* a bit cheaper, especially when you don't have replace the flanges, your spool/locker, or have any machine work done, and they are a BIG step up in strength. Just an option to save you some cash...

Hell with the money saved on those shafts, you could buy the Atlas... (though honestly, if weight isn't a concern, there's no real reason to get rid of the 203/205..)

[nckrsamford]

Thanks guys, all real good info! I will probably go up in wall on the lowers when I break these and probably might buy some tires later too. Thanks for the info on the chromo's I will probably look into getting those before I go to 2" just because of the price, it would be nice to be able to get the chromo's and the atlas!

[PKP80]

Looking forward to this build, get started, and take a lot of pics

[mookie]

x2 on what Eskimo said about the military tires they suck azz.....and you are gonna def need thicker bottom links, i've bent the crap out of mine (.25" dom) with 39's and yota axles and about 2K less weight than your gonna have

[Sputnik40]

I can't speak from experience - but after asking alot of questions here, I went ahead and ordered my rod end hardware for .500 wall x 2.25 lowers, and .375 wall by 2" uppers. I could prolly get by with .250 or .375 lowers - but with Rockwells .500 sounds better.

In the interest of weight, and less need for strength I'll probably drop the uppers down to .250 x 1.75.

[murf]

If youre busy wrenching on your rig, youre not out chasing skirt or causing trouble - a savvy wife should like at least she knows where you are at.

Dont forget to give your wife the at least 25% of the attention you give your cruiser.

Happy wife = Happy life.


Or just trade her in if she doesnt stop nagging!

[HI^C]

on what WB ?

what width ?

how tall ?

[nckrsamford]

So long story short, I dont have a torch! Those d**n spring hangers are a mutha****** to get off! Got the rear rockwell under the chassis and now I am lining up the link mounts and links. I will post some pics in a day or two. Since I am not back halving the rear of the fj I am going to have to put my link brackets (chassis side) more toward the center of the frame to get the full use of my coil overs. I was going to use the spring hangers in the rear for my lower link mounts but that would only give me a link length of 30" and that is just not enough. my shocks are set up for 6" of up travel and 12" of extension so putting them 8" back from the frame bend in the rear should work fine. anyone have any different ideas?

[Isotel]

removing hangers is one of those *FUN* parts of a build.. Even better when your trying to save them for use on a shackle reversal!

Putting the shocks 8" back, or the Link mount?? im a little confused on what your talking about, Pictures are worth 1000 words.. and i like pictures

Have you run the numbers into the 4 link calc?

[nckrsamford]

moving the link mounts back 8", talked with jeremiah proffitt yesterday and he thinks that moving them towars the front 8" will get me the extra amount of travel I need.

[mookie]

i don't understand how your gonna get that rockwell under there without backhalving it and tubing the rear end out to get some clearance for the pinion? zero uptravel or jacked up way too high in the air?

[shelfboy1]

i would do the front first there is gonna be clearance issues and the front will sit higher or you will have to move the motor back to clear the rockwell .

[nckrsamford]

yes you are both right! i pulled out the plasma yesterday and started cutting all the brackets off and while i did that i decided to back halve it! so to day I am going to be cutting the back off after I put a xross member in. I am not moving the engine back though, I know the stance will be high because of the pinnions but when I put the 472 in I will move everything back and cut some of the trans tunnel out and make room to stuff it back along with tubing some of the front frame in. I really just want to wheel her now! its been a little over a year of collecting parts and i cant wait to wheel her!