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Old 12-07-04, 08:07 AM   #1
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Art Carr...

Got the shifter on order, they have a nice price online right now, but not sure how long the special is out for...

http://www.artcarr.com

I'm keeping the standard valve body, but tweaking some things. Shifter gate plan is per attached.

This will allow fast shifts between 1st or 2nd into either Neutral or Reverse....basically, trimming out those three tabs
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Old 12-07-04, 08:26 AM   #2
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I was thinking of making one simular to this to this one, just have the rught neutral tab smaller to allow direct into N. Also have numbers swaped since my VB is reverse. I want to keep the gating for most gears, just have quick 1-R and 1or2-N to keep from endo or bad sitchs.
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Old 12-07-04, 06:44 PM   #3
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Pansy assed automatic drivin, yellow beer swillin, cheese wearin.


I think that's next winter's project...


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Old 12-07-04, 08:28 PM   #4
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Shit, looks like it is going to take you all winter to fix that rear axle


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Old 12-07-04, 10:17 PM   #5
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Making your own shifter plate? or farming it out?

I'm not crazy about the one I have either...

Reverse VB is in the future, but for the time being, I really like cruiserrg's design.


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Old 12-08-04, 06:47 AM   #6
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just trimmin the tabs on the stock plate...piece of cake...

tho, it'd be VERY easy to make yer own too....


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1974 FJ40 'The Raisin' - Pitbull Rockers, 30-spline Longfields, SOA - 1/4 ellip
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2003 2500HD Duramax - Edge/Juice/Attitude, 285 Nitto Terra Grapplers, 4" exhaust


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Old 12-08-04, 10:53 AM   #7
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I just picked up some thin diamond plate the other day.. might have to make one that blings!

With the 4.7's in my t-case, I have a funny feeling I'll be running around in 2nd and 3rd for alot of the hillclimb scenarios where i'd need a quick hit to N or R... so a reverse VB may not help much, as the shifter would be just as far away... 1st will be a very slow crawl...

I drew this up very quickly, and my reasoning for it is:

1: the need for a quick second (or third) -to-reverse change
2: still allowing me to lock into 4th for the road (so I won't knock it into reverse at 45mph)
3: keep 1 & 2, 2 & 3 as a isolated pair, since that's what'll be used most often with my gearing and terrain (1&2 for slow rocks, 2&3 for climbs)

If this is moronic or unsafe, lemme know.. I got the shifter used, and it takes a deliberate effort to move it side-to-side, so I was thinking this could add in some "oops" prevention in itself.
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Old 12-08-04, 05:55 PM   #8
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Woody and Reuben,
give me dimensions and I'll get them punched in stainless for you, you'll have to get the letters engraved yourselves though.


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Old 12-08-04, 06:50 PM   #9
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Niner, I'll show ya mine before it's installed so you can template....mine will work stock, reubie is goin fer custom tho....


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1996 FZJ80 'Gretchen' - MetalTech, ARB, OME, IPOR, 4x4Labs
2003 2500HD Duramax - Edge/Juice/Attitude, 285 Nitto Terra Grapplers, 4" exhaust


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Old 12-09-04, 12:37 AM   #10
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I thought you were looking for BLING! Since you used to give me crap for the autos.


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Old 12-09-04, 07:26 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Niner
I thought you were looking for BLING! Since you used to give me crap for the autos.

obviously the auto crap will stop...

the limited slip crap will continue....

I'll have the shifter in hand next week and can see if the stock gate is bling-enuf or not...lol


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1974 FJ40 'The Raisin' - Pitbull Rockers, 30-spline Longfields, SOA - 1/4 ellip
1996 FZJ80 'Gretchen' - MetalTech, ARB, OME, IPOR, 4x4Labs
2003 2500HD Duramax - Edge/Juice/Attitude, 285 Nitto Terra Grapplers, 4" exhaust


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Old 12-09-04, 10:10 PM   #12
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I still don't like changing Axle shafts.


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Old 12-10-04, 01:09 PM   #13
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purty....
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1974 FJ40 'The Raisin' - Pitbull Rockers, 30-spline Longfields, SOA - 1/4 ellip
1996 FZJ80 'Gretchen' - MetalTech, ARB, OME, IPOR, 4x4Labs
2003 2500HD Duramax - Edge/Juice/Attitude, 285 Nitto Terra Grapplers, 4" exhaust


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Old 12-10-04, 10:13 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Niner
Woody and Reuben,
give me dimensions and I'll get them punched in stainless for you, you'll have to get the letters engraved yourselves though.
Sweet. Chris can you also do the rolling to get the required bend needed? See if you can talk woody into sending his over for a template to be made.


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Old 12-13-04, 01:12 AM   #15
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I can punch but I would need a radius for rolling the bend. Because of the shortness of the piece it would be hard to roll. find a tire the pipe or something the correct radius to roll and bend yourself.


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Old 12-13-04, 07:49 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Niner
I can punch but I would need a radius for rolling the bend. Because of the shortness of the piece it would be hard to roll. find a tire the pipe or something the correct radius to roll and bend yourself.
yeah I can take care of the bend, PM me on what it will cost me and what information you need.


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Old 12-15-04, 08:12 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Niner
I can punch but I would need a radius for rolling the bend. Because of the shortness of the piece it would be hard to roll. find a tire the pipe or something the correct radius to roll and bend yourself.
Could you punch it out of a longer piece, roll it, and cut it back to the desired length?
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Old 12-20-04, 02:22 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trainrech
Could you punch it out of a longer piece, roll it, and cut it back to the desired length?
I could but I prefer the sheered edges rather than the saw marks. plus a piece like that should be very easy to roll on a piece of pipe.


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Old 12-20-04, 06:47 PM   #19
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Now I just have to tear into mine and figure out a wat to add a park/neutral switch(s) in there.


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