8 inch lift on a 76 fj40....HELP!!

[manofsteele_80]

i have put a soa and a 2" block lift on the fj40 .. i need to know what to put on the axil to frevent axil wrap.. Pics would be great ...also i need to know what to do about the front axil it seems to be lifted too high because the axil binds when the suspension is totally UNcompressed.. i wanna make sure itll b ok when it is compresed. any ideas???
this rig is not a competition rig id just for cruising and maybe hittin a lil mud every great once in a while any and all info would b cool


thanks

[Rock_Hugger]

Renove the lift blocks from the front before you kill someone or youself

[usmcruiser]

Originally Posted by Rock_Hugger

Renove the lift blocks from the front before you kill someone or youself

Ditto.

Oh and read this

http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/woody/wrap.html

[wngrog]

Dont post the same question in more than one forum..........

Send me some pics, I will try to help you out.

[woody]

blocks on the front axle are dangerous and illegal. Read up on your DOT rules.

with that much lift, a cut-turned front axle will be a must, as will a CV driveshaft. see the tech section for lots of writeups.

What size tirs ya gonna try and run, 44's????

[wngrog]

He sent me this. Looks good to me.....

[camcruiser13]

holy shi# i almost lost my lunch laughing so hard at that pic of the jeep.. are you joking me. can you email me that picture i wanna show my friends. baka_ko@hotmail.com thanks

[CruisinGA]

right click, "save picture as."

[manofsteele_80]

ok ok ok
what ill do 1st is take thoes blocks out!!! thanks guys i really apreciate the input ,, this is the 1st lift ive ever done so I didnt know the concequences of the block in the front.... i want the same lift though hopefully somwhere around the 8" im not runnin 44's now but maybe in the future... so im liftin now to plan for the future ..i dont like doing things twice ill do it right the 1st time..... so ill take the blocks out and maybe put a smaller shackle lift on it... then what should i do about the axils binding? turn the axle housing or the cv???? which one is easier, and also which one is better or should i do both, also would it b a good idea to put somthing like a traction bar on the front axil or will it be well enuph alone???

does any one have a couple pis of what would be a good traction bar for the rear axil I've heard a couple different ways to build it and have a couple ideas ,... but i want to know the right way to do things..... any pics ??????.....im going to get pics on here tonight of my cruiser and the suspension ....ill be back ...thanks again for the imput guys

[woody]

standard V-bar in the rear will work fine, see the Tech links for my writeup on doing one

once you ditch front blocks, wrap won't be a problem there.

I run 38.5's now on stock SOA springs, and will be doing 40's next.

For the front axle, cut and turn, set caster to about +4 degrees, total rotation of 15 degrees. Stock caster is +1, big tires like big caster.

See the Tech links again for Andre's excellent writeup on SOA stuff....

Actually, spend a day in the tech links regardless....PS is on your list, as are lots of other things.....

[manofsteele_80]

thanks guys i love this site ....needless to say if this sight wasnt here ,,id prolly be dead

[manofsteele_80]

this is the front ...the blocks were out assoon as i read the messages thanks

[manofsteele_80]

does everyone ealse like the design of the bar in the link if so should i put one on each side of just one in the middle???
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/woody/wrap.html

[wngrog]

A properly designed trac bar need only be a single in the middle.

Shoot me a picture of the front knuckles from the side. It looks like the pinion is pointing up but I fear that the Prior Owner just rotated the housing and did not keep the knuckles at the correct caster.

[manofsteele_80]

they were i corrected that already and i got it leveled ...only it wasnt the prior owner,,,,dont laugh, it was me as i rotated it and tightened every thing up i realized what i did and i just leveled it back out today and took the blockes out..

[manofsteele_80]

i also set the caster back at 4 deg.

[manofsteele_80]

now that i have the blocks out the driveshaft is still binding should i look into a cv joint because i also need to extend my driveshafts anyway...or do i?


is a shackle reversal worth it if i keep my stock springs??
but what if i fab it all myself and can make it for pennies .. then it will b ready for the new springs in the future

[woody]

shackle reversal will make driveshaft bind issues worse.

Remove the drivers side front tire and take a side shot for us....make sure we can see the pinion angle and the knuckles

Also, get the rig off framestands and on the axles so the ride-bind can be determined.

[71-CRUISER]

I suspect your frount shaft is binding at the t-case. you can call Jess @highangle driveline. he makes a u-joint for exactly that.

[3_puppies]

you can do a spring flip and gain a couple of inches of wheelbase, might help some. also in rotating both axles make sure you add a new fill plug at the proper level, so everything is lubed properly

[HI^C]

much in favor of longer shackles, before welding the perches. Also might need a few spring bushings.

Are you CV rear? pinion looks up a bit for none CV

8" total spring lift, i think your going to have to go with a lift spring to get that much. WELL fronts at least.

44s on cruiser axles, shall i assume more street then not?

[manofsteele_80]

i dont think im going to need cv in the rear just the front .. in going to put a reversal on it to give me a lil more wheelbase then i think a cv in the front will fix it all....
yes this is a mostly street machine a lil mud and off road, nothin too extreme.
im a flatlander here in ill. theres really no good places to get tooo extreme

[HI^C]

spring or shackle reversal?

custom cv only then. $$$$ front. rear make sure you check your u joint angles when setting the rear pinion angle up to run the none CV shaft.


if you look there are places, i am not all that rocky, but you travel a bit you can find some.

[wngrog]

Originally Posted by woody

shackle reversal will make driveshaft bind issues worse.

Dude.....

Anyway, I could care less if you drive a dangerous rig on the trail, but it is the street that worries me the most. That is the reason to fix bootie fab.

[manofsteele_80]

so if i put a shackle reversal and a spring reversal on the front to give a lil more leingth ,,, do u think a cv axle will work good on it or do i NEED to not do any reversal at all...... cuz the springs reversed will give another 2 inches of leingth to play withth the angle .....also if i need to i can cut and turn the axles ..... if i did all of that do u thin it would b ok ohh ya ....thank ALOT for all the help guys keepm commin

[wngrog]

Originally Posted by manofsteele_80

so if i put a shackle reversal and a spring reversal on the front to give a lil more leingth ,,, do u think a cv axle will work good on it or do i NEED to not do any reversal at all...... cuz the springs reversed will give another 2 inches of leingth to play withth the angle .....also if i need to i can cut and turn the axles ..... if i did all of that do u thin it would b ok ohh ya ....thank ALOT for all the help guys keepm commin

OK, you are binding now with regular shackles. When the front end drops out now the pinion actually reduces the angle you have.

If you do a shackle reversal, the pinion will dive when the front drops.

Your binding will be worse.

[manofsteele_80]

so how does everybody that had an soa and a shackle reversal get around the the binding?? i understand now that the binding will be worse, but there has to be a way around it ...there always is ,,
from what ive heard is that its almost pointless to put a shackle reversal on, with out putting on aftermarket springs, well if they put on aftermaket springs then there in the same perdickament that im in.......how do they get around it??? reason for me wanting the shackle reversal is because i will get new springs for it in the future... mine r week.

[wngrog]

Originally Posted by manofsteele_80

so how does everybody that had an soa and a shackle reversal get around the the binding??

OK, I have a spring over and a shackle reversal. My front springs are flat. That nets about 5" of total lift. No fenders and I run 42s with a flat spring spring-over.

Since you wont take a picture of your setup, I a simply assuming that you have too much angle and too long of a driveshaft and it bottoms out in the Ujoint cup.

I have a 1310 joint at the bottom of my front axle and a Toyota Ujoint at the top. I have long, long splines and all that keeps it from binding at full droop. No CV.

i understand now that the binding will be worse, but there has to be a way around it ...there always is ,,

SHow me what you have and hopefully I and others can help

from what ive heard is that its almost pointless to put a shackle reversal on, with out putting on aftermarket springs, well if they put on aftermaket springs then there in the same perdickament that im in.......how do they get around it??? reason for me wanting the shackle reversal is because i will get new springs for it in the future... mine r week.

I think you misunderstand what folks have said. I know a TON of Cruisers with toasted, flat stock springs, shackle reversal and no binding.

The fact that you said you have standard shackle setup and your drivesahft is binding leads us to say, if you do a Shackle Reversal now, you will get worse binding because something up there is bad and the SR will just make it worse.

TAKE SOME PICTURES like Woody described above and we will get you fixed up.

Mine from the side...