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Old 12-09-04, 11:54 PM   #31
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ok thanks ive been meanin to get pics up but ive been outa town for about a week so. ill get pics up asap thanks guys


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Old 12-12-04, 02:06 PM   #32
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this is a pic of the front end /......i tried to get a good pic of the angles
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Old 12-12-04, 04:06 PM   #33
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it looks like full droop might have enough movement at the top, can you grind on the ears and such to get it to work?

exhaust nice and short, LOL.


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Old 12-12-04, 06:49 PM   #34
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If you're in Walnut- I can stop and look at it sometime with you, my wife's family lives in Dixon and we'll be there sometime for the holidays, Let me know, Luke


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Old 12-12-04, 07:06 PM   #35
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hey luke ..that sounds good to me... ill be going to st.louis for a bit during the holidays but if ya want , let me know what your schedule is like and we can set comthin up................................................ ................................................ i dotn know if i grinf the ears off if ill have enuph clearence it might be real close...wouls it be a good idea to just put a cv on it and let'er be?


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Old 12-12-04, 07:13 PM   #36
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I think that I should see it before I give any advice at all... I'm having trouble picturing what the problem is from the pictures and the description. Once I know when we're headed that way, I'll send you an email and see if that works for you or not. I'm not promising that I'll have all the answers, but maybe I can be helpful. Luke


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Old 12-20-04, 07:58 PM   #37
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does anyone know the best thing to do with the driveshaft to make it hook up without binding????HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!


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Old 12-20-04, 08:15 PM   #38
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Where is it binding? which ujoint?

Right now i do not see any bind issues visually.

I have no bind issues, no SR, soa, no CV, a auto so driveshaft could be longer.

is the above pic with weight? looks like it.


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Old 12-20-04, 10:57 PM   #39
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My best suggestion is to lower that rig some. If you are building a rockcrawler / trail rig, it's too tall and will be top heavy.

If you are building a mud runner or something that doesn't need much flex, then limit the droop so it does not bind and you will be fine.

If you are insistent that you need to be that tall with that short of a front driveline - call Jess at High Angle Driveline and shell out the bones for a high angle driveshaft. That one is not beyond hope of him making something work.

You can also lower the engine (leaving the tranny in place) and improve the front driveline angle, but I have no clue on if that will worsen the rear at the same time to where it just moves the problem.

Bottom line, in my opinion, you have raised it a bunch and maybe too much for the length of the front driveline.

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Old 12-21-04, 12:00 AM   #40
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Cut and turn...


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Old 12-22-04, 08:25 PM   #41
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in the pic above the cruiser only has a soa and nothin ealse only 6 or so inches and the driveshaft is binding at the top.....and maybe a lil at the bottom (not sure) the springs are compressed so its sitting as it would if it were on the ground


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Old 12-22-04, 09:14 PM   #42
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Do me a favor. Get an angle finder and measure the angle of the tcase flange. It kinda looks like the motor/trans/tcase is mounted with the motor high and the tcase low..


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Old 12-22-04, 09:24 PM   #43
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" motor/trans/tcase is mounted with the motor high and the tcase low "

well it is suppose to be 3-5 degrees or so, i do think it is close to that spec. Which
you can play with.

Now i do think the drivetrain is mounted high in the frame rails.

also remember you will settle out about approx 1in or so, after you drive on it.


You have many options at your disposal! all of which have been mentioned i believe
at this point.


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Old 12-23-04, 10:41 AM   #44
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You are really making this very confusing and, I think, misunderstanding some basic principles. At one point you state

Quote:
i also set the caster back at 4 deg.
and then later state

Quote:
also if i need to i can cut and turn the axles
If you haven't cut and turned the knuckles relative to the pinion, there is no way to set the caster at +4* without tilting the pinion back. Your pictures don't indicate that


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Old 12-30-04, 11:40 PM   #45
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im sorry . i didnt mean caster i just ment the rear of the axle was angled up around 4 deg.


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Old 12-31-04, 06:49 AM   #46
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if you angled the pinion up 4 degrees, then the caster is likely at -3 or -4, which will make for NASTY road manners....

you'll want 2-4 degrees positive caster, and about 10-12 at the pinion....


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Old 12-31-04, 03:08 PM   #47
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I'm in Dixon this weekend... sent you a PM with my cell phone number. Could come down and see what's going on with your front suspension if you still want. Luke


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Quote:
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I'm tryin' to stop this outbreak, and you're drivin' the monkey to the airport.
1998 4Runner Limited
1964 FJ45SWB SOA,SR,383SBC,SM465,NP203/205,ARBs,Longfield Inners & Outers,36"Swampers,Caged
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Old 01-02-05, 10:10 PM   #48
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sorry luke i was outa town this weekend ,,,if i woulda known grrrrr


.................................................. .just to make sure i actually know how to measure the deg. what is the best way to measure ?????


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Old 01-07-05, 06:11 PM   #49
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.................................................. .what is the best way to measure the deg. of the pinion ....and if i cut and turn the axle (thats changing the castor, right??) what deg. is the most i wanna go there???, or should i just turn it to align pretty good with the axle?


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Old 01-07-05, 06:17 PM   #50
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Go to harbor freight and get a magnetic angle finder
Slap it on the pinion flange and that will give you the degrees of the pinion..


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