1 ton toy front....80/9.5 (1 Viewer)

[jj33]

Figured I would add some tech to the site I take alot from. Everything is a cut/paste from the orignal thread on PBB
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=761670



Somthing ive been working on. FJ62 rear flipped/turned, FJ80 outers. Im setting it up to use the stock 80 inners also so no custom inners are needed. I have the knuckles at a freind of a freinds cnc shop being drawn up on autocad this week for the high steer arms and ill drop off the balls (inners C's) today with my buddy so he can turn down the o.d. of the ball "slug" to fit the housing end. Pretty straight forward.
Slees uzj100 using the same setup, bling like though.

Ill be using the same type high steer setup.

When I got the housing. Ends were cut already. Beside a stock 80 front shaved/stripped down. Lots of rust to deal with on the housing.

Comparison pics of the LP 8" I was going to run and the 9.5"

Note the "tabs" on the 9.5" bearing caps, these contact the housing flange for support.

Started by cutting the knuckles off the 80 and cleaning the 62 up.

Here's how the 9.5 bearing caps are supported by the housing, almost like a 8.4 girdle. Also had to flip the diff back to low pinion, and notch the flange accordingly. This rear had a removable cover so that helped with it,otherwise the cover would have to be cut and turned.

Welded the cover on as I plan to shave/plate this one as well as have a a steering ram bridge/cover so it dosent need to be removeable. Also had to fill the stock fill hole and added a large one I had laying around.

 

[jj33]

Next I setup to cut the 62 to length. I put the center in both housings, pulled a tape from the side gear to the cut at the ends on the 80 and marked the 62 accordingly.

Cut it, got it within 1/16" of what the 80 housing measured. I feel good about it at this point. Ill start on shaving/plating it today, as well as drop the balls off to be turned. I'll kinda be on hold till I get my knuckles back after that.

Heres a couple more size referance pics.

And a 80 birf beside a mini.

 

[jj33]

I shaved the 62 rear housing I was using but was not happy with the results. I also galled 2 bolt holes in it. I came across a semi float 80 rear for cheap so I decided to scrap the 62 housing, pick up the SF 80 rear and start over. I paid 200 for it and I must say it is one of the best junkyard axles I have come across for the dollar. Almost perfect 4.11 3rd with brand new gear dope in it. The SF is a c-clip axle for those wondering so about the only differance between it and the 62 was the offset, and OEM gussets. I wanted the gussets (strength, matchs rear) and the offset just barely allows the use of stock 80 inners. *disclamer* A FF 80 rear will not work for this application without cutting down the long side inner, the housing is too short on the long side. I took more time this time and it came out much cleaner and I am happy with the results. Im waiting for my inner balls to get done before I cut it to length, and I will assemble it for mock up then.

to the pics....

The SF inners are HUGE, almost 1.75", shame it has c-clips.

I took a pic of the axle complete but the dam camera didnt take it. I spent 4 hours cutting/cleaning off brakets. Again I took my time so I didnt fawk anything up (heat draw)

The 9.5" 3rd's bolt/stud pattern is simetrical (unlike 8") so there are no stud holes to move. Only need is the ring gear clearance to the opp. side. I also took my time and chased all the stud holes with a plug tap to make sure not to gall anything this time. Also a trick I learned from the tool section here, stick ear plugs in the fresh holes to keep crap out of them, works wonders. The do get a lil crispy with heat but dont melt. I just pluged the drain on this one. I will never shave a 9.5 again.

Took the 10" sch40, weld on pipe cap (10 3/4" o.d.) and cut it down to match the oem cover. This thing is BEEF! almost 1/2" thick, 28lbs! I should never have to worry bout chunking again.

Tacked it on for now, I still have to put a fill plug in it and I want to see where the inners are landing in the side gears before I burn it in.

Also worked on the hubs a bit. I'll be drilling/tapping the 8mm-1.25 studs on the flanges (front and rear) to 10mm-1.25 and running grade 10.9 bolts in them. Heres is a size comparison.

Thats all for now. I should have the inners balls by sat so I can cut the housing to length, and inatall them. The knuckles/high steer should be right behind that.

 

[Isotel]

Looking Good!, What where the hangups with Shaving the other Housing?

and Why did you cut a Slot in Both Sides of the Housing for the Ring Gear (Diff side, and Cover Side)

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi All:

Sorry, please pardon my ignorance, but didn't the early (1991-92) FJ80s come with a 9.5 inch diff in the front axle? Why not build one of these frontends instead of going to all this trouble?

Regards,

Alan

 

[LC_Hamma]

Looking Good!, What where the hangups with Shaving the other Housing?

and Why did you cut a Slot in Both Sides of the Housing for the Ring Gear (Diff side, and Cover Side)

"FJ62 rear flipped/turned, FJ80 outers."

That's what you gotta do when you start off w/ a REAR axle. You rotate it, cut out new ring gear passages & fill in the old one's. I've done two hybrids similar to this. One is 30 spline & the other is 35 spline. My decision was mainly cuz I wanted a front diff w/ a removable cover, wider WB, & use D60 outers but retain the LC diff I already had.

 

[jj33]

Yep ring gear clearance. I was going to fill the other side in but decided against it with the cover being welded on. I think the heat applied to it to fill it would do more harm to the flange then the notch will.

On the shave... I cut a lil much out, and the cover I had was beond repair with the rust but I tried to use it anyway. Mistake! IMO its just not worth it for the clearance gained. Now 8" stuff is different, you can get a frigg'n 1.5" out of them.

 

[mookie]

that's some pretty awesome fab....personally i want to do the opposite, a 80 front axle with mini-truck knuckles on it. i believe that the high pinion 3rd is stronger than the LC 9.5 in the front, plus you get more clearance.

 

[LC_Hamma]

I wouldn't think a HP 8" ring gear would be stronger than the LP 9 1/4" in the front. Even if you have all the free LC outer stuff, IMHO, I wouldn't bother reusing it if D60 stuff is available & works *better. There are 6 lug hubs available too ;p

 

[jj33]

that's some pretty awesome fab....personally i want to do the opposite, a 80 front axle with mini-truck knuckles on it. i believe that the high pinion 3rd is stronger than the LC 9.5 in the front, plus you get more clearance.

Thanks man, I started to do that myself. I have a shaved 80 front housing (seen in background pics) im going to put a set of mini knuckles on sometime. It would need custom cut inner shafts, but be around 62" wms-wms. PM me if your interested.

I wouldn't think a HP 8" ring gear would be stronger than the LP 9 1/4" in the front. Even if you have all the free LC outer stuff, IMHO, I wouldn't bother reusing it if D60 stuff is available & works *better. There are 6 lug hubs available too ;p

I agree, for some reason the HP 8" has a high dollar following. I sold mine so I have 100.00 in everything that was left Im not a fan of dana stuff and it sure wasnt in my budget (0.00 most of the time) Oh and all this is going under a 2500-3k Zuk with a FF/disc 80 rear to match

 

[Tapage]

Sorry, please pardon my ignorance, but didn't the early (1991-92) FJ80s come with a 9.5 inch diff in the front axle? Why not build one of these frontends instead of going to all this trouble?

not Allan .. as far as I know .. any 80 series come with front 9.5 low pinion 3rd ..

 

[jj33]

Punched my hubs out to 3/8" with grade 8's in em. The 10mm stuff was 3.5x as much as grd8 :shaking: I messed with the cone washers for a bit but have about decided on just using lock tight on the threads and a lock washer at the head. Ill do this with the rear flanges also.

Thoughts?

 

[Isotel]

the cone washers spread out the load of the stud more on the surface of the flange.

The Grade 8 3/8's stuff should work, i guess time will tell if its strong.

Fine Spline??


And Yes in the Front, i would think a Hi Pinion would be stronger, because your running on the Drive side of the gears.

 

[TBIFJ40]

Damn, I hope you never break those grade 8 bolts; you'll never get em out. At least with grade 5s they act like fuses (break the thing you can fix easily) and you can drill em out without too much trouble. Or maybe you thinking of just replacing the entire hub if they break?...of course the idea is they wont break...hmmm

 

[Eskimo]

And Yes in the Front, i would think a Hi Pinion would be stronger, because your running on the Drive side of the gears.

Only when you're going forward (when there's less load on the front axle anyway). When you're backing up and the weight shifts to the front axle, you're on the coast side of an 8" ring gear. Bang.

I even doubt that the high pinion 8" is stronger than a fine spline 9.5 at all, on drive or coast.

 

[mookie]

okay so strength wise maybe it's a wash, but the thing about the hi-pinion that i love is it would help my front d-shaft/nose cone not get slammed as much going over stuff and you get more clearance under the chunk. isn't that guy who drives the raisen running 44" tsl's on a hi-pinion 8" front axle with good success?

 

[mookie]

Thanks man, I started to do that myself. I have a shaved 80 front housing (seen in background pics) im going to put a set of mini knuckles on sometime. It would need custom cut inner shafts, but be around 62" wms-wms. PM me if your interested.

I agree, for some reason the HP 8" has a high dollar following. I sold mine so I have 100.00 in everything that was left Im not a fan of dana stuff and it sure wasnt in my budget (0.00 most of the time) Oh and all this is going under a 2500-3k Zuk with a FF/disc 80 rear to match

i might actually be interested in that....how much? and what is the wms on a factory 80 front end? did toyota make a high pinion 8" that did NOT have a e-locker in it? i really don't want any part of that.

i've just started on a low $, spare parts-zuk project too, i'm planning on using FJ40 axles though

 

[too tall]

Where are you going to get the steering parts ? I'm thinking about doing the same thing right now . Just not sure if it'll be strong enough .

 

[Dusty]

im curious to see how the grade 8 flanges hold. i love my 1 tons but ive had my d70 rear axle flange bolts come loose a couple times. i kinda miss the cone washers. keep those flanges tight.

 

[jj33]

Well I hope the grd8's will hold. There is a guy in canada I got the idea from, he has beat on his buggy (2500lbs) without problems...his are on the rear steering axle too. He just built a 300hp 4.3 for it too so we'll know REAL soon how tuff they are. I think they are a big upgrade over the lil 8mm studs they replaced. With lock tight and lock washers sould stay in. IF they break I have enuff material left to punch them out to 10mm, I really think the bolt will be fine it the cone washers delete I wonder about. So the D70 dosent have them?

On the HP8" vs LP9.5" debate........Im running a LP9.5" and I sold the HP8" to fund it