FZJ40

IPOR · 02-01-09, 04:08 AM

Here are a couple pics of the rear of the truck that show the second Yellow top Optima battery and rear mounted Warn 9.0RC winch. I put the second battery back here because it will primarily be used for the rear winch. I wanted it to be close to the winch to reduce the voltage drop that normally occurs when you run a rear winch from a front mounted battery. My cabling now only needs to support the 450 amp load for 2' rather than 10'. The winch is mounted on a skid plate.

The rear bumper is the standard IPOR 40 bumper, with a different tire carrier, 2" receiver hitch, winch mount and tail light guards. I did a different tire carrier because I needed it to be short so that I would still have access to the rear winch with the carrier closed.

Lance

IPOR · 02-01-09, 04:12 AM

These are just plain cool so I wanted to show a pic of them here. I'm running OME stock height heavy duty coils and L series shocks so the coils can fall out at full droop. To prevent this Kenny fabbed up these trick coil retainers. They follow the contour of the mount and spring perfectly which minimizes spring bind.

IPOR · 02-01-09, 04:26 AM

On to the interior... The first order of business was gauges and steering column. I initially planned to use the 80 gauge cluster but there were several problems with this idea. It's much larger and I would have had to sacrifice the factory dash pads, both upper and lower, in order to make room for it. The extra width would have also prevented me from having an HVAC vent to the left of the gauges (more on that later) and because it's so much larger it would have killed the balanced feel of the dash.

We've used Haneline gauges, dolphin, autometer, etc. over the years but they're never quite as clean as a factory dash unit. The 40 dash in particular has a lot of character, and a row of autometers simply didn't appeal to me. I thought about doing one for the FZJ40 that matched this one I did for my friend Scott several years ago:

IPOR · 02-01-09, 04:45 AM

I like that it keeps the factory speedo - the speedo in a 40 is very unique and really adds to the character of the truck. My donor 80 had an electronic speedo, but it appears to use a mechanical drive gear on the tcase so i could probably have run a cable driven speedo like a factory 40 unit. I started looking for a late model that has turn signal indicators in the speedo but kept coming back to the 80 gauges. They work well and are designed specifically for the 80 drivetrain. In fact, with this drivetrain I have a need for some lights that are not present in a 40 - CEL, CDL, Cruise, low oil, AT/TMP and hadn't yet figured out where to put them. The 80 has them in the cluster.

I did some drawings and came up with a way to do it. Here's how it turned out: first pic is the 80 cluster during disassembly, next pic is the finished FZJ40 cluster (before paint) next to a factory 40 cluster.

Lance

IPOR · 02-01-09, 04:53 AM

I haven't yet reassembled the FZJ40 gauge cluster after having the components painted in factory pewter - I'll post pics when I do. There is a lip that holds a piece of plexi between the outter and inner bezels so it will be sealed up like the factory unit. The picture above seems to show a crooked slot at the bottom of the cluster - it's actually rectangular but in this pic the bezel is overlapping some of the slot and you can't tell because it's all in primer.

Anyway, the slot holds 6 factory indicator lights from the 80: seat belt warning lamp, trans temp overheat, low oil, center diff lock, check engine and high beam indicator.

Another pic -

IPOR · 02-01-09, 05:06 AM

Some pics of the process that got me there...

Here's the gauge cluster after cutting it down and removing the Tachometer. I also re-centered one row of idiot lights. The new gauge surround is 18 gauge sheet metal. The last picture is the ring I fabricated to hold the new surround in place. (still unfinished)

IPOR · 02-01-09, 05:10 AM

Pic of the finished ring, the surround after cutting down to fit inside the ring, and the ring with surround installed.

Lance

IPOR · 02-01-09, 05:12 AM

Here's a pic of the outter gauge bezel test fitted in the dash.

IPOR · 02-01-09, 06:05 AM

Initially I had wanted to use the 80 column, but there were problems. The orientation between driver, steering wheel and gauges is completely different between 40 and 80. The column is squite bulky and shape of the steering wheel made it difficult to see the gauges. This was disappointing because the 80 column has many of the controls integrated that I wanted to remove from the dash - headlamp, wiper, cruise.

Not to be denied I cut down the 80 column and 40 column and integrated the controls from the 80 coulmn while keeping the 40 steering wheel. I do like the giant 40 steering wheel, and I got to keep the controls that I like from the 80. This was a lot of work, i don't recommend doing it this way - there are easier ways to do it.

soenke · 02-01-09, 07:28 AM

Now you are right into the most difficult part of getting J4 and J8 together...

your gauges look alright, but you could go with plain J4 look too ..( maybe later

? ) ....

we used the stock mechanic speedo, no problem at the gear box but with the power stearing ! Our unit was speed modulated operating, with no speed signal it was not drivable at all.

......we had to change it to the third world specification wich doesn´t need a electronic speed signal...
We kept the J8 stearing column, your J4 is a lot more modest.

The J4 gauges do work with the J8 input. We changed the oil pressure to a second fuel gauge though. All the other "nice to know" gauges are VDO and out of the way under the roof..

(it´s still underconstruction...)

soenke · 02-01-09, 07:36 AM

Code:

...and I got to keep the controls that I like from the 80. This was a lot of work, i don't recommend doing it this way - there are easier ways to do it.

there will be the next problem with the windscreenwiper motor of the J4. The "interval" from the J8 will not work, you have to change polarity of the wipermotor or use a potentiometer instead of the J8 control...

Riad · 02-01-09, 08:22 AM

Fascinating, just Fascinating Lance

Exiled · 02-01-09, 08:54 AM

Lance! This is an awesome build, my friend! I'm not surprised at the fabrication/perfectionism, but I am in awe at the speed of the build. Can't wait to see what this beast ends up looking like!

IPOR · 02-01-09, 11:36 AM

Oh my Soenke, that J4 looks anything but plain! Awesome. I'm curious about the modulated power steering. Can you not just remove the modulator valve and run it wide open?

I haven't yet finalized the wiper motor wiring. I know the intermittant will not function, I was planning to use an aftermarket rheostat. Initially I had planned to fit the 80 motor but ran out of time and wasn't able to verify that park position and arc would be compatible. For the time being I'll have on/off.

Lance

IPOR · 02-01-09, 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Exiled

Lance! This is an awesome build, my friend! I'm not surprised at the fabrication/perfectionism, but I am in awe at the speed of the build. Can't wait to see what this beast ends up looking like!

Thanks! Remember you're getting the condensed version of the project. I started about 4 years ago... working on it one day every few months... Then about 6 weeks ago I realized I was going to be in CO delivering a 55 this spring and wanted to do Moab at the same time so the project got fast tracked. I can always dust off the IPOR 55 buggy for the trip, but it's a unique opportunity and I wanted it to be in a unique rig.

You should come. March 22-27, Slickrock Campground

Lance

Radd Cruisers · 02-01-09, 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IPOR

I haven't yet reassembled the FZJ40 gauge cluster after having the components painted in factory pewter - I'll post pics when I do. There is a lip that holds a piece of plexi between the outter and inner bezels so it will be sealed up like the factory unit. The picture above seems to show a crooked slot at the bottom of the cluster - it's actually rectangular but in this pic the bezel is overlapping some of the slot and you can't tell because it's all in primer.

Anyway, the slot holds 6 factory indicator lights from the 80: seat belt warning lamp, trans temp overheat, low oil, center diff lock, check engine and high beam indicator.

Another pic -

Way cool, that cluster was stroke of genius and I like the look alot.

Rob

IPOR · 02-04-09, 07:09 AM

Finished the gauge cluster this morning...

Lance

Eskimo · 02-04-09, 07:41 AM

Wow...just...wow.

kcustom73 · 02-04-09, 06:15 PM

Nice work. Must be great to be able to work on something like this full time. I guess I should leave the computer and go work on 40 resto...

ChuckB · 02-04-09, 07:01 PM

I don't often venture into the hardcore section... This is simply amazing!!

fourtrax · 02-04-09, 09:52 PM

very well done...

Volcano cruiser · 02-04-09, 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IPOR

So I came up with these steel fender flares. I built a sample from sheet metal then sent it off to our laser cutter and had them build a prototype for a new IPOR rock proof fender flare.

Great build.The thing that I like most about this 40/80 conversion is you really flesh out how to deal with the really thorny problems of putting a 40 body on an 80 chassis. Almost everyone decides on adding rear fender flares due to the wider wheelbase but your integrated tube fenders are both practical and slick looking. Really very nice.

Quick question, did you have to shorten the 80 frame in order for the 40 body to set down on it? I understand your reasons for doing the shortening but I was wondering for those who might want to take that particular bit of heartburn out of the build was it a "must do" or a "want to". Could the 40 body be set onto the 80 frame and the wheels match up to the wheel wells? Obviously one would still have to deal with body mount position etc but just curious if the two would fit together ...

Quote:

Originally Posted by IPOR

I like that it keeps the factory speedo - the speedo in a 40 is very unique and really adds to the character of the truck. My donor 80 had an electronic speedo, but it appears to use a mechanical drive gear on the tcase so i could probably have run a cable driven speedo like a factory 40 unit. I started looking for a late model that has turn signal indicators in the speedo but kept coming back to the 80 gauges. They work well and are designed specifically for the 80 drivetrain. In fact, with this drivetrain I have a need for some lights that are not present in a 40 - CEL, CDL, Cruise, low oil, AT/TMP and hadn't yet figured out where to put them. The 80 has them in the cluster.

I did some drawings and came up with a way to do it. Here's how it turned out: first pic is the 80 cluster during disassembly, next pic is the finished FZJ40 cluster (before paint) next to a factory 40 cluster.

Lance

I'm rebuilding my 40 now, standard stuff compared to this. My mechanic has a busted up 80 laying around and we have been noodling this idea 40/80 for a while now. We always got stumped at, the wiring harness modification, the gauge cluster width and combining the 40/80 steering columns. Your disassembly and recomposition of the 80 cluster is just...breathtaking . What are you going to do for a tach now though. You've gone to alot of trouble to keep the spirit and feel of the 40 dash, it'd be a shame to drop an autometer tach in there.

Within a year or so my assignment will be up and I'll be moving back to the Warrenton area. I can see that I'm gonna have to roll down the road and check you guys out on a regular basis. Great job. I'm now officially hooked on your project.
John

lndcruz · 02-05-09, 12:24 AM

wow! that instrument cluster looks amazing

jfz80 · 02-05-09, 05:46 AM

looking real good guys...........keep up the good work!!!

Sporin · 02-05-09, 06:19 AM

incredible build

liljlandon · 02-05-09, 06:36 AM

Wow, this is amazing!

IPOR · 02-05-09, 07:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Volcano cruiser

Quick question, did you have to shorten the 80 frame in order for the 40 body to set down on it? I understand your reasons for doing the shortening but I was wondering for those who might want to take that particular bit of heartburn out of the build was it a "must do" or a "want to". Could the 40 body be set onto the 80 frame and the wheels match up to the wheel wells? Obviously one would still have to deal with body mount position etc but just curious if the two would fit together ...

What are you going to do for a tach now though. You've gone to alot of trouble to keep the spirit and feel of the 40 dash, it'd be a shame to drop an autometer tach in there.

I shortened the 80 frame AND lengthened the 40 body. The 40 wheelbase is about 30 inches shorter so you'd have to add quite a bit to the body to make it fit the 80 wheelbase without cutting the frame down. Even if you do not cut the frame down you will have to relocate the engine/trans in order to fit the radiator in the grille. (or relocate it to the rear of the vehicle like Gary did with his 45)

I have the 80 tach and was thinking of putting it into a console on the trans tunnel. I haven't posted pics yet, but my HVAC is different than the stock 40 so I have some room there on the trans tunnel at the firewall. I don't really feel like I need a tach, but if I do I think I can work something out that keeps with the theme I have going.

Lance

Arya Ebrahimi · 02-05-09, 07:06 AM

This build is awesome. I had food poisoning over the weekend and this made for some good viewing while I was stuck in bed.

I can't believe you guys are only in Fredericksburg and I've never been there to visit. I'll have to make a trip one of these days.

Arya Ebrahimi · 02-05-09, 07:08 AM

BTW, how hard was that gauge cluster to do(not the cosmetic stuff, but the electrical/mechanical side of things)? I've fooled around with a couple of older mini-truck gauge clusters and I have no idea how you accomplished what you did and have any chance of having it all work. Not doubting, just intrigued.

IPOR · 02-05-09, 07:32 AM

Here are some pics of the HVAC. We've done a lot of the Vintage Air kits for the 40 but there are some things I don't like about them. The most obvious is the vent system - it reminds me of an old Dodge Dart or something. Very cheap looking and not the best quality louvers. I also don't care for the pull style controls that use the tired old factory pull knobs. The HVAC unit also hangs low in the passenger footwell.

That's not to say the vintage air FJ40 kit doesn't work well - it does, and it's a good option that is virtually bolt in. With the ability to work in the HVAC sytem so early on in the FZJ40 project I felt I could do better.

I picked their Gen V magnum unit because it's designed for a stepped firewall as in the 40, and it has fully electronic controls. It has a provision for floor, vent and defrost. I could have mounted it below the glovebox, but it would have been a compromise in terms of fit. The unit is designed to fit behind the dash (admittedly the dash of a much larger car!) and that's where I chose to mount it. I had to sacrifice about half of the glove box to make room for it, but I don't think I'll be short on space because I also have a tuffy console going in. The glovebox door is original, but the actual box itself will be only 1/2 the normal width with a blanking panel on the other side. (HVAC placement is shown in the last picture)

I chose these vents that look like carburetor venturis. Not only are they cool but they're all alumimum and sturdy enough for my sort of abuse. (You can also operate them with gloves on... which may come in handy for snow wheeling!) While the dash was torn down we also cut the defrost vents out, then re-sized the ports to 2" so they would be fully compatible with the defrost hoses on the new HVAC.

The control knobs are installed on a blank panel shaped to match the original ash tray. You can also see in the last pic the row of cole-hearse rocker switches that replace the factory radio. (I'm planning to run an ipod from the console for tunes) The rest of the dash is very clean as I carefully relocated all of the functions normally associated with the knobs to other places. (headlamp, hazard and wiper controls on column; HVAC controls relocated; etc...) I should note here that on more stock/original 40's I do love the pulls - this truck is heavily modified and the pulls just don't work with this build.

Lance