[CruisinFJ60]

Originally Posted by 88chevota

So for the front I was thinking of maybe going with radius arms instead of leafs. I would try to find some at the pull yard. What do yo think? The idea of out-boarding the front springs does not sound fun to me. I know it is easier but radius arms are pretty simple right?

i know its a little late but why does everyone outboard the springs to match the perches on the axle? why not more the perches in to match the frame for leafs...

[kling-on]

sweet that looks great

[kling-on]

Originally Posted by CruisinFJ60

i know its a little late but why does everyone outboard the springs to match the perches on the axle? why not more the perches in to match the frame for leafs...

on the front axle the perch is made into the diff center chunk

[CruisinFJ60]

Originally Posted by kling-on

on the front axle the perch is made into the diff center chunk

so is a SOA 60/40 ect... or do you mean right up on top of it?

but i have seen on many builds on many diferent vehicles where people outboard the springs even on a centered rear diff, or when up front clearance would not be an issue.

seems to me that if out boarding wasnt a requirement it would potentially yield better articulation from the additional leverage of the axles moving the springs.

[88chevota]

The driver's side perch is actually made into the diff housing. So it would have been a must to outboard the springs. It was also a good excuse to put coils in. I'll try to take a close up pic of the diff housing to give a better idea of what it looks like.

[kling-on]

Originally Posted by CruisinFJ60

so is a SOA 60/40 ect... or do you mean right up on top of it?

but i have seen on many builds on many diferent vehicles where people outboard the springs even on a centered rear diff, or when up front clearance would not be an issue.

seems to me that if out boarding wasnt a requirement it would potentially yield better articulation from the additional leverage of the axles moving the springs.

60 axles on a 40 or D60 in the front of almost anything ... on hte rear ya I've seen it to and dont understand

[88chevota]

here is the pic of where the spring perch sits. You really can't move it.

[88chevota]

just some more pics of the stance and how it sits

[CruisinFJ60]

Originally Posted by kling-on

60 axles on a 40 or D60 in the front of almost anything ... on hte rear ya I've seen it to and dont understand

ok so it isnt just me then.

Originally Posted by 88chevota

here is the pic of where the spring perch sits. You really can't move it.

ok thats not what i pictured in my head, it makes alot more sense now.

[88chevota]

I got my tire. $365 for the set of 5 and they are in great shape!!!

I cut down the run flats then ground off the sharp edges.

I have some wicked death wobble at 35mph. any suggestions?
tie rods are tight and so is the panhard arm. all suspension is tight no play.

I need to check alignment what should be the toe in or out?
I've been reading some about it and steering stabilizers can just mask the real problem. Seems like death wobble is a hard thing to figure out. could be even something as simple as unbalanced tires I guess.

any way here is the pic of one insert and a tire. I'll take more tomorrow in the day.

[CruisinFJ60]

why the run flats?
and why did ya cut em down? it looks like where they bolt together is taller now than the rest.

[Pacer]

Kevin, you try bolting those same wheels to someone else's cruiser (edit: rig with similar axles) and see if they produce similar results? Or switch them one at a time front to back....
I'm inspired by tour work my man, keep it coming!

[kling-on]

Originally Posted by 88chevota

...I have some wicked death wobble at 35mph. any suggestions?....

you balance the tire and wheel combo yet ????

[88chevota]

Originally Posted by CruisinFJ60

why the run flats?
and why did ya cut em down? it looks like where they bolt together is taller now than the rest.

The run flats came with the wheels and that is what makes it the double bead lock. You cut them down because when you go wheeling you don't want the run flats to keep your tire up. You want your tire to be able to flex and wrap around the rocks!

[88chevota]

Originally Posted by Pacer

Tony (fixed that for you), you try bolting those same wheels to someone else's cruiser (edit: rig with similar axles) and see if they produce similar results? Or switch them one at a time front to back....
I'm inspired by tour work my man, keep it coming!

Thanks for the encouragement! sometimes it's frustrating when you get this far and you run into annoying problems like the dreaded death wobble!

Originally Posted by kling-on

you balance the tire and wheel combo yet ????

I think I will try to balance them and add the steering stabilizer and see what happens. Ford has these weird brake calipers that are held in by wedges or something. I have some play when the brakes are applied and I wonder if that adds to what is going on.

[CruisinFJ60]

Originally Posted by 88chevota

The run flats came with the wheels and that is what makes it the double bead lock. You cut them down because when you go wheeling you don't want the run flats to keep your tire up. You want your tire to be able to flex and wrap around the rocks!

Makes sense, guess i was thinking that they already allowed some flex from em but obviously not enough.

So where did you get the wheels from? and how much did you pay? got any pics of how they go together? Ive never messed with humvee wheels.

[CruisinFJ60]

never mind i figured it out.

[88chevota]

found the culprit!!! Ford axles (some apparently not all) have these wedges that hold the calipers in place. mine were worn out which was causing the calipers to slop around. replaced my pads and the wedges, also installed a steering stabilizer and it's all gone. hit 67 on the interstate and it rode smooth!!! even hitting bumps nothing!

[CruisinFJ60]

so.... lets see some flex pictures...

[88chevota]

Originally Posted by CruisinFJ60

so.... lets see some flex pictures...

I need to put in some bump stops first.

here is a pic with the 37's

[brokenparts]

looks good!!!!!!

[CruisinFJ60]

rear fenders look nice!

[LC_Hamma]

Originally Posted by CruisinFJ60

Makes sense, guess i was thinking that they already allowed some flex from em but obviously not enough.

So where did you get the wheels from? and how much did you pay? got any pics of how they go together? Ive never messed with humvee wheels.

99% of one's who buy the H1 double beadlocked wheels recenter them due to the negative offset. I recently recentered a set to 3.5". They are really a no-brainer when you get a set complete w/ the runflats. Make sure you oil the o-rings so they don't get snagged & leak out air. Also, tighten the outer piece of the wheel in a criss-cross pattern. The 1st set is the one's I just did, the 2nd pic is the set I run on the They both show aftermarket rock rings. There are vendors on Pirate that sell them, some I've seen for sale in your area. Check the Pirate classifieds. Sorry for the hijack

[me_tu05]

Just throwing this out there cuz your ride is looking good.
Here is how I did my H1's, you dont need rock rings but a 1/2" round piece welded on the outer edge. I got some flange bolts for the wheels and tacked all the nuts on the inside of the inner wheel. Now I have no studs hanging out to get bent and a stiffened ring. I got 50 bolts for $48 at mcmaster.
Here is how they came out

[GLTHFJ60]

Yup, I want H1's.

[88chevota]

Thanks guys for the input on the h1's. To answer some of the questions. I picked the set of 5 up for $175. I was going for the budget build. I seriously thought about recentering them. It still might be something I redo later. for the meantime I put 2" wheel spacers on. I would only want to change the backspacing by 2", 2.5" at the most. So I would end up with a 5" or 4.5" backspacing. The backspacing issue was the main reason for not recentering yet. The pressed centers are much stronger but the backspacing would make my tires stick out way too far. I could go another .5" on each side and still have good width. I have full width tons on this so It could be really wide with the wrong back spacing. I want to make sure when it articulates the tires actually tuck in the fender not hit them and cut up the tires. I also kinda like the look of the h1's the way they are. Kinda makes it look like a military vehicle.

me_tu05 I love the flange bolt idea. I might go for that!

I might try it out on my spare and see how I like it.

[boots4]

The combo looks really good on your cruiser. The 37s look bigger on your rig than mine for some reason... funny how that is. When I balanced my tires two took a lot of weight and two took minimal weight. Because of the double bead lock I didn't mine spending $ to get them balanced since they won't slip and screw up the balance when aired down. It definitely improved highway comfort and just about eliminated my minor DW (even though I've got play in the steering system).

If you get a chance to weigh one tire/rim combo I'd be interested to see how much weight mine gained with the new ring and center. Mine complete came out to 140lbs.

[88chevota]

Thanks boots.

the 37's may look bigger because mine might not be as tall. I am at 22" to the bottom frame rail.

They are definitely heavy, not sure if they are 140 though. When I get a chance I'll weigh em.