[DavidW]

If we have to then we have to. Gotta try it though.

[Mace]

It is easy to figure out binding issues during the mockup process

[DavidW]

Yea, but we'll have to pull it off the jig first.

[DavidW]

Originally Posted by Mace

It is not the side to side movement that is the issue, it is the rotation of the axle housing during articulation that will cause binding.

I bet, you remove one upper link..

Glad I didn't take that bet!

[DavidW]

Going back to the pic 1 in the original post. Just gonna run the panhard from the passenger side frame rail to the ds of the axle. Going to have to work the 3rd link mount so that it attatches to the spring pad on the axle. Will probably tie it to a plate bolted and welded to the 2 threaded holes just above and to the ds of the pad.

[Mace]

Originally Posted by DavidW

Going back to the pic 1 in the original post. Just gonna run the panhard from the passenger side frame rail to the ds of the axle. Going to have to work the 3rd link mount so that it attatches to the spring pad on the axle. Will probably tie it to a plate bolted and welded to the 2 threaded holes just above and to the ds of the pad.

Running the panhard the opposite direction to the Draglink (unless you are doing full hydro) is not a good idea.

It will create lots of bump steer and can actually stop you from turning when articulated.

My third link mount on the PS integrates both the upper link mount and the Panhard bar.
It does not rely on the spring pad either.

[LC_Hamma]

I have the panhard mounted from PS frame to DS axle on my 40 & am going the same route on my I did have problems turning, bound up in the rocks, but that may be associated w/ lack of hydro-assist. But now that you mention it it maybe what you're saying is true Can you elaborate as to why the panhard has an effect on steering as I din't think it would?

[Mace]

A panhard basicaly defines an arc that the axle will travel in from side to side. The longer the panhard, the "bigger" the arc. Bigger is better. There will be less movement of the axle as it droops.

The draglink does exactly the same thing. It defines an arc as well. In a leaf spring setup, when the axle droops it goes straight down (simplified but...). If you were to keep the steering wheel in one orientation the wheels would end up turning to the DS because the Draglink would essentially be "shorter".

Most front link suspension guidelines tell you to make the panhard bar and the draglink as close to parallel and about the same length. If you did both of these things perfectly, then there would be no bump steer. That is pretty tough tho.

Say the draglink is mounted on the DS frame and the Panhard bar is mounted on the PS frame. As the axle drops something has to give. The panhard is hard mounted to the axle and frame. The Draglink is mobile (wheel turning) and will have to move to match up to the axle movement.
When the axle drops it will want to move towards the passenger side because the panhard bar forces it to. If you hold the wheel straight, the tires will turn to the DS because you are moving the axle away from the dS of the truck.

If the articulation is significant enough, and the orientation of the PH and DL are far enough off.. It is possible to lock the wheels to the DS and not be able to turn them.

lemme find a link that graphically describes this better.

[Mace]

here is a description that is not bad.

Protect your Jeep while rock crawling with side rocker panel guards & skid plates from Skid Row Automotive, Body Armor, Rugged Ridge, Olympic 4X4 Products & Warn. - Quadratec

[DavidW]

All that makes since. Luckily we're doing a full hydro set up from Station at POS. Thanks for the info Mace.

[Mace]

Originally Posted by DavidW

All that makes since. Luckily we're doing a full hydro set up from Station at POS. Thanks for the info Mace.

then you're golden

[LC_Hamma]

Thanks for the link, it was very helpful. I'm redoing both panhard locations now

[DavidW]

Finally some progress worth posting some pics. We may be in trouble for not spending enough time with our Valentine’s today, but we sure made some progress on the front suspension. Ended up building a 3 link with a pan-hard bar.

We still have some boxing in to do and some cleanup on some things but made some major progress.

All of the pics are just past full bump. Ride height will be 3-4" higher with lots of droop

Pan-hard brackets:






Pan- hard bar:


Three link brackets:


Still need to box this one in:


Links:



Next we get to work on the hydraulic ram for the steering and then the body goes on to work on the placement of the shocks.

[sodaboyYJ]

Your brackets looks SWEET, but what's the deal with your links? Steel links are so 2005, you need 7075 AL to be these days.

[srgould41]

Your welds and links are a work of art! Teach me to weld like that!

[DavidW]

Originally Posted by sodaboyYJ

Your brackets looks SWEET, but what's the deal with your links? Steel links are so 2005, you need 7075 AL to be these days.

No thanks, I'll stick with the 2" x 1/4" Cromoly!!

[DavidW]

Originally Posted by srgould41

Your welds and links are a work of art! Teach me to weld like that!

I can't take credit for them, they are all Devin's work, but if you look close you can see how clean the floors are. I can sweep the hell out of a shop!

[FLYINGLOW]

Originally Posted by sodaboyYJ

Your brackets looks SWEET, but what's the deal with your links? Steel links are so 2005, you need 7075 AL to be these days.

7075 is so 1965... Who wants aluminium that begins to break down after its aloyed?

[DavidW]

We got the ram for the steering mounted and tie rods mounted. Making some protection for the ram now. Will post pics up soon.

[DavidW]

Took awhile to get the pics, Roundup and other stuff keeps getting in the way. Here are a few of how it sits as of yesterday.: