toyota axles- floating vs. non-floating

[mookie]

i am slowly making plans and starting to accumulate parts to 4-link the rear of my fj40....part of that plan for me is to put a wider and hopefully stronger rear axle in place of my fj40 rear.....i am bound and determined to keep my rig toyota axled and i really don't care if it costs more........so i guess the main question that i want to ask is if a full floater axle holds up any better than semi-floating? i understand the differences between the two and the advantages that the floater has, and i know that the axle shafts are no bigger in diameter than in the full floater. i also know that some axles just have an intrinsic ability to take a beating better than others (like the mini-truck rear) do any of you have in your rigs or know of folks running 60 series full floaters and how are they holding up compared to semi-floaters?

60 series full floater- with which i could reuse my 3rd member, i would upgrade studes and dowels and plan on sending my r&p and axle shafts to longfield for treatment


and no i don't want a freaking 14 bolt lol

[mookie]

oh and also what about fzj80 rears? could i use my fj40 3rd member in one of those? are they considered to be any stronger than the older rear axles? would the centered chunk give me driveshaft problems?

[Cruiserdrew]

You could use an 80 rear and your 3rd. It's wider than a 60 axle and has disc brakes. With poly axle shafts, it's fairly strong. Not a bad choice. It's not centered, by the way. It's PS drop like all cruisers.

If I were building a super hardcore rig, I think I'd look at a stronger axle, though. A custom D60 comes to mind.

[Tapage]

Or maybe a ford 9" ..

But talking about Cruiser axles .. I don't think that the FF it's really much more strong that a SF axle .. taliking about 40 and 60 axles .. coz I broke my longer shaft on my SF with 37" and 2 mates broke a FF with 33" and other with 35"

I thought it all depends on care of the FF more things to care BTW .. but definatelly an advantage to have a FF ..

At least IMOP .. it I would go with a hard core rig .. FF without doubt .. and if I can afford a 80 series FF much better ...

[mookie]

isn't there an issue with the 80 series disk brakes not fitting wheels under 17" or something? i've got 15" beadlocks with 2" backspacing....can you change out the rotors to a smaller ones or anything? as wide as those axles are i don't think i would want to run wheel spacers...

edit....apparently you can grind the calipers a couple millimeters to make 15" wheels fit

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by mookie

isn't there an issue with the 80 series disk brakes not fitting wheels under 17" or something? i've got 15" beadlocks with 2" backspacing....can you change out the rotors to a smaller ones or anything? as wide as those axles are i don't think i would want to run wheel spacers...

edit....apparently you can grind the calipers a couple millimeters to make 15" wheels fit

Stock wheels are 16, I don't know about running 15s.

[Isotel]

Id say Full Float (Toyota Parts) is a Disadvantage for a 40.. Just more Stuff to Break. the full float guys are sheering off the Pins/Studs.. Id rather just carry a Spare Semi Float Shaft. with my Rear Axle the Right and Left Sides are the same so it works out just fine!

I did manage to Twist the Splines on a mini truck shaft, so im going to need to look for something stronger pretty soon.

Maybe a 14 Bolt

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by mookie

edit....apparently you can grind the calipers a couple millimeters to make 15" wheels fit

arent my best option .. here is a mate that do it and add wheel spacers without problems right now. Maybe smallers calipers should be a option .. ?

[woody]

yeah, I'm a fan of the stock semi-float Toyota stuff.....IMO, the only reason I'd switch to a fullfloat toyota is weight carrying....don't much need that in my FJ40.....

[OpTimuS]

Originally Posted by mookie

isn't there an issue with the 80 series disk brakes not fitting wheels under 17" or something? i've got 15" beadlocks with 2" backspacing....can you change out the rotors to a smaller ones or anything? as wide as those axles are i don't think i would want to run wheel spacers...

edit....apparently you can grind the calipers a couple millimeters to make 15" wheels fit

Hey there mookie.

I too have been looking the options I have of upgrading the 60 series diff in my truck build-up.
What I figured out (which may not suit everyone) was my best option is the following:
80 series housing, axles, brakes and hubs.
60 series chunk (or 40, 45, 70, 75 serieschunk), ( I am 99% cerain it will fit, I have measured everything offered 80 series axles to it, and even bolted opposing driveshafts to it, the only thing I have not checked is offerign the chunk up to th diff housing).
60 series detriot locker
whatever gearing is chosen (I will be using 4.88 R&P).

This is somthing I have been looking into for a while and this is a thread link I have from another forum.

DARWIN4X4.NET - THE TOP END'S 4X4 ONLINE COMMUNITY :: View topic - your ultimate 80 diff?

Cheers Davo

[alkaline747trio]

80 series FF? If so, must use FF chunk (40/60 series FF should work), use Poly Performance axle shafts, and ARP studs, Aussie Locker (cheap, and STRONG), stock 80 rear brakes clear 15" wheels w/o grinding if 2.XX or less back spacing, so 2" will clear for sure, so whatever you want to do there.

[LC_Hamma]

The new Tundra is what you may need to consider & per this thread:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-cor...-5-w-pics.html
you'd need to find out if there is a 4.88, or whatever you're running, ratio available. It also says an ARB is in the "works". At this point, I'd send CTM one of the ARB side gears so he can custom spline a pair of 4340 SF shafts for it.
If you want to take another baby step, cut off the ends & use Dana 60 or 14 bolt spindles, buy 6 lug hubs for either, then have CTM rebroach the ARB side gears for 35 spline & run SF or FF, your choice.
You're runnin on borrowed time for the front diff. Good luck there

[OpTimuS]

Originally Posted by alkaline747trio

80 series FF? If so, must use FF chunk (40/60 series FF should work), use Poly Performance axle shafts, and ARP studs, Aussie Locker (cheap, and STRONG), stock 80 rear brakes clear 15" wheels w/o grinding if 2.XX or less back spacing, so 2" will clear for sure, so whatever you want to do there.

Ahh good call I did forget to write down that the FF and SF axles are different splines.

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by OpTimuS

Ahh good call I did forget to write down that the FF and SF axles are different splines.

Huh?

Same splines.

You can run a semifloat 3rd in a FF axle.

You can't run a FF 3rd member in a semifloat axle since the side gears would not have the relief for the c-clip.

[OpTimuS]

yeah mate also some of the SF have the 10-splines.

[Mace]

Originally Posted by OpTimuS

yeah mate also some of the SF have the 10-splines.

Not since like 1969 or so...

[alkaline747trio]

Learned something new today...