Can I improve on this Diff?

[OpTimuS]

Hey guys just asking for some help, and ideas here on a Diff I woud like to build, and if anyone has any opinions on how I can buld it?

This will be going under my 60-series ute, with (soon-to-be) 3-link front with coil-overs.

Diamond housing 5.5" wider than standard.
lcwizards longer inner 30-spline shafts.
30-spline long birf's.
TG 6-shooter knuckles.
ARP studs.
TG Creeper flanges.
1.5" wheels spacers.

Anything I can do to further strengthen or improve this setup I would like to do. If you guys have any ideas please post em up.

[alkaline747trio]

"pin" the ring gear, use 80 series birfs/knuckles..........run a 609 (D60 outers, Ford 9" center)

[OpTimuS]

Hang on!!
Misunderstanding.
I mean how canI keep my car relatively still 'toyota' (no 9" or D60 gear).

Alkaline what do you mean by pin the ring gear?

Also I believe bobby long's gear is better than the 80-series parts, and easier to get.

[Mace]

Why in the world would you plan to run a diamond housing and wheel spacers????

LC stuff is nice, but in the end, you will have spent way more money on this axle than a D60 and still only have a front axle that is 30 spline..

[alkaline747trio]

Originally Posted by OpTimuS

Hang on!!
Misunderstanding.
I mean how canI keep my car relatively still 'toyota' (no 9" or D60 gear).

Alkaline what do you mean by pin the ring gear?

Also I believe bobby long's gear is better than the 80-series parts, and easier to get.

"Pin" the ring gear - can't find the thread, it was on here or pirate4x4, but what you do is support the ring gear where it meshes with the pinion, then there can't be deflection reducing the chances of breakage.

80 series birfs are larger than mini/40/60....and Bobby Long makes upgraded 80's birfs. If you're already doing a diamond housing, get them to put FJ80 knuckles on it....

[Eskimo]

Originally Posted by alkaline747trio

80 series birfs are larger than mini/40/60....and Bobby Long makes upgraded 80's birfs. If you're already doing a diamond housing, get them to put FJ80 knuckles on it....

But they're not 30 spline at the star as I recently was informed.. FAIL.

I'm also with mace on NOT running wheel spacers with a custom width housing.. Why would you do that?

[OpTimuS]

Originally Posted by alkaline747trio

"Pin" the ring gear - can't find the thread, it was on here or pirate4x4, but what you do is support the ring gear where it meshes with the pinion, then there can't be deflection reducing the chances of breakage.

80 series birfs are larger than mini/40/60....and Bobby Long makes upgraded 80's birfs. If you're already doing a diamond housing, get them to put FJ80 knuckles on it....

The only reason I am going to be keeping the mini/40/60 knuckles is so that I can run TG 6-shooters. There would be no benefit to run 80 knuckles/swivels/birfs due to the reduced strength of the setup. Also the stub axles on the 80's are prone to shearing off just behind the outer taper bearings.

'Pinning the ring gear' however sounds pretty difficult.

[OpTimuS]

Originally Posted by Mace

Why in the world would you plan to run a diamond housing and wheel spacers????

LC stuff is nice, but in the end, you will have spent way more money on this axle than a D60 and still only have a front axle that is 30 spline..

Hi Mace.

LC stuff is nice.
And yes I will most likely spend $2700-$3000US on the front diff alone, However for me to get a built, locked, 35-spline, high-steer Dynatrac to Darwin in Aus would cost much more initially, and exponentially more to maintain.


Now as for the wheel spacers I can not understand why it would be a bad choice to use them?
I was thinking that by widening the front housing 5 1/2" and using an 'average' offset wheel (standard 16x8" LC 80-series wheel) I will be able to get some sort of a longer life span out of my wheel, and king-pin bearings.
Then by using 1 1/2" wheel spacers that would be giving me almost 8" wider wheel track. This very wide wheel track combine with the lower roof line, and lower chassis will create a heaps better CoG.

[alkaline747trio]

It's only two bolts and a steel block about .5mm from the back side of the ring gear beside where the pinion contacts the ring gear. I wish I could find the pic, it looked extremely easy.

[OpTimuS]

so the block acts like a support/guide for when the ring deflects under strain? good idea.........

[alkaline747trio]

Exactly it....maybe it was ncttora forums....

[Arya Ebrahimi]

Originally Posted by OpTimuS

Hi Mace.

LC stuff is nice.
And yes I will most likely spend $2700-$3000US on the front diff alone, However for me to get a built, locked, 35-spline, high-steer Dynatrac to Darwin in Aus would cost much more initially, and exponentially more to maintain.


Now as for the wheel spacers I can not understand why it would be a bad choice to use them?
I was thinking that by widening the front housing 5 1/2" and using an 'average' offset wheel (standard 16x8" LC 80-series wheel) I will be able to get some sort of a longer life span out of my wheel, and king-pin bearings.
Then by using 1 1/2" wheel spacers that would be giving me almost 8" wider wheel track. This very wide wheel track combine with the lower roof line, and lower chassis will create a heaps better CoG.

Using a "normal" offset wheel and wheel spacers has the same leverage effect as just running less backspacing. The trunion bearings and wheel bearings don't care how the tire gets out there, they just know it's further away.

If you want to be 8" wider, just make the housing 8" wider. The way to make your wheel and trunion bearings last longer is to keep the wheel/tire tucked up to the knuckle.

[OpTimuS]

Originally Posted by Arya Ebrahimi

Using a "normal" offset wheel and wheel spacers has the same leverage effect as just running less backspacing. The trunion bearings and wheel bearings don't care how the tire gets out there, they just know it's further away.

If you want to be 8" wider, just make the housing 8" wider. The way to make your wheel and trunion bearings last longer is to keep the wheel/tire tucked up to the knuckle.

hey arya thanks for the reply mate.
I bloody agree with what you say about the trunion bearings last longer is to keep the wheel/tire tucked up to the knuckle.
LCWIZARD can supply me 2 5/8" longer inner and outer 30-spline shafts (then I don't have to get custom ones).
Also when I run the wheel spacers I can take them off as I wish.

Use wheel spacers for Rock crawling, Take them off for higher-speed mud racing.

[Eskimo]

You also turn tighter without wheel spacers... Scrub radius!

[alkaline747trio]

Not the thread/article I remember, but it's the same idea (yet better IMO).....

True Hi9 high pinion Ford 9 inch third members richmond

[bustanutley]

66.5" wms/wms is uber wide. I don't think you will need the spacers..

There is no way I would drop just north of 3G on a yota axle. I have seen plenty of nice d60s 35spline thru-out with a Detroit going for around $2500. What maintience costs? Are you talking about the $2 nylon kingpin bushing that rarely will ever need to replaced? D60s are great, put them in, forget about em. I pissed I have as much money in my yota front as I do, around 1500, but double that? I haven’t had too many problems with it but it is always on my mind and it is about clapped out.

Oh and my buddy just got a 609 bling everything (sunray knucles 50deg turning) for around 5G

[TachedOutOffRoad]

Damn Nutley!! Not you too Cheaper is not always better right?!?!?!?

What 3rd are you using?

When I get a Diamond made it will have the "8.4" Tacom rear 3rd in the front and rear of my truck. I have a HP front now, which is good (and I hope that I can resale ) but I want to get back to the swappable option I had in the begining.

[1upnover]

You can run the factory housing just truss it really well and support the outer balls.

Wayne

[bustanutley]

remember Clay, I just put in a big t-case

I'm over breaking parts, I'm a wheeling not a builder.


But if it makes you feel better, yota axles are sticking around till them completly disintegrate, or I run into a pile of money. Oh and the F motor is in for the long haul as well

[OpTimuS]

Originally Posted by Eskimo

You also turn tighter without wheel spacers... Scrub radius!

o.k. so that is a very good reason against wheel spacers

[OpTimuS]

Originally Posted by TachedOutOffRoad

Damn Nutley!! Not you too Cheaper is not always better right?!?!?!?

What 3rd are you using?

When I get a Diamond made it will have the "8.4" Tacom rear 3rd in the front and rear of my truck. I have a HP front now, which is good (and I hope that I can resale ) but I want to get back to the swappable option I had in the begining.

The 3rd I will be using will be my ARB 4.88 centre I have lying around.

For what it is worth ($500 for gears, $1700 for locker), I see it would be silly to not splash out on longs a diamond, and 6-bolt TG's.

[OpTimuS]

Originally Posted by 1upnover

You can run the factory housing just truss it really well and support the outer balls.

Wayne

am considering that because freight on the diamond is BIG$$$$
just space balls out with LCWIZARD spacers.

[MOTERRA]

truss the axle up to keep the housing from flexing....you got the rest covered

[Pacer]

Originally Posted by 1upnover

You can run the factory housing just truss it really well and support the outer balls.

Wayne

Hay, look who's back!!
Wayne knows his stuff, and wheels his Yota junk very hard!!

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by Pacer

Hay, look who's back!!
Wayne knows his stuff, and wheels his Yota junk very hard!!

rear steering in Yota stuff .. nice !

Rear off set ( centered D300/Mini Truc 4.7 t-case ? rear output .. ) more nice ..