Square driveshaft's

[dacicci]

i made a square slip in a round shaft using an adapter from ts and it works great will spin on rock and is farely balanced and can double in length strong and no noticeable vibration, adapter is about $50 had about $40 in tube and $10 balence job at local drive shaft joint. runs great i use a tom woods custom cv high ange in the front, had to change pinion flange thow. but my round with sqaure slip rear runs great maybe an option

[boots4]

Originally Posted by dacicci

i made a square slip in a round shaft using an adapter from ts and it works great will spin on rock and is farely balanced and can double in length strong and no noticeable vibration, adapter is about $50 had about $40 in tube and $10 balence job at local drive shaft joint. runs great i use a tom woods custom cv high ange in the front, had to change pinion flange thow. but my round with sqaure slip rear runs great maybe an option

Have any pics you could share?

[OpTimuS]

Originally Posted by boots4

Have any pics you could share?

x2
pics would be great

[OpTimuS]

Originally Posted by Mace

Tom woods unis are only good for a 1310, 1350 and I believe 1410 units..

No toy stuff..

thats bad news...... maybe will have to go with the TG uni's......

[OpTimuS]

Originally Posted by bustanutley

Why don’t you just build your own? You are a machinist correct? 2.5” sch 40 is a damn near perfect fit for yota flanges. I just made one last week, 8ft length of pipe cost me all of $30.

Maybe even a thicker wall section so that I cn machine down 2 lips, one on either end of the spacer.......

That is a bloody beaut idea.
Standard double cardon's front and rear, with standard slider spline inners and custom length outers.

[Mace]

Custom length outers? You mean the tube of the shaft itself?

[OpTimuS]

Originally Posted by Mace

Custom length outers? You mean the tube of the shaft itself?

Yeah Mace.

essentially I mean that (on the rear for example) I would have the standard double cardon joint bolted to the outputs shaft, the have the standard (early) L/C slip-joint inner. For the outer slip shaft I will shorten it. To shorten it (by say 4") cut a 6" length out of the shaft then machine a 1" shoulder inside of the shaft on both halves (and a 45deg chamfer on the outer edge/lip, and slide in a sleeve (2 1/8" long, 1" of sleeve in each half, with a 1/8" between the shaft to aid in weld penetration) into both halves of the shaft (interference fit), and weld the shaft together and to the sleeve. Does that explain more?

Does it make sense?

[Albin]

Square driveshafts are cheap, easy and work well, especially up front. I put a couple ounces of sand in mine to help with the balance and I've had mine up to at least 40 mph with no out of balance or noise issues.

My paper on doing my square driveshaft might help: http://www.rocketcityrockcrawlers.co...%20Project.pdf

Good luck.

Al

[slickrock]

go to post 19 http://forum.ih8mud.com/ca-central-v...ings-done.html

[OpTimuS]

cheers mate. homemade round I like it.

[88chevota]

Just thought I'd chime in.

Picked up a Mini 45 degree Double Cardan joint at a local yard for $50 and had it lengthened and balanced for $70. They even used the slip section from the LC d-shaft. I just redrilled my flange at the t-case and done. Plenty of travel and strong as can be. $120 is pretty cheap for a great drive shaft.

[Isotel]

You sure tony, my square shaft uses about 6-7" of its travel with stock springs Sprung over and Shackles reversed.

Most of the Travel is out when the PS tire drops away and forward

[OpTimuS]

So if I am going t link my front end I may not even need a long travel driveshaft?

[Mace]

Originally Posted by OpTimuS

So if I am going t link my front end I may not even need a long travel driveshaft?

Most likely, no. That is one of hte nice things about running links. I use about 3" of slip in my 40. Stock U joints work just fine.

[88chevota]

Originally Posted by Isotel

You sure tony, my square shaft uses about 6-7" of its travel with stock springs Sprung over and Shackles reversed.

Most of the Travel is out when the PS tire drops away and forward

Yep checked it out the other day. everything looked pretty good.

[slickrock]

Originally Posted by Isotel

You sure tony, my square shaft uses about 6-7" of its travel with stock springs Sprung over and Shackles reversed.

Most of the Travel is out when the PS tire drops away and forward

Hey Isotel, how much compression do you have available sitting at stock height? All the research when I did my shaft ,said I only need a little over an inch for compression (SOA height) on the front shaft. Now am thinking I might need to shorten the shaft a bit to get more compression.

[Gumby]

Bottoming out is potentially a lot more costly than pulling apart.

[slickrock]

yeah no kidding (sorry bout the hyjack by the way). How much slip do you have available (figure your SOA?)

[Gumby]

In the front I have about 16" of slip. I'm running a four spline up front. I use a lot of it with a SOA and pretty extreme shackle angles.

In the rear I use about 2" of travel because I have a four link. I found that being really twisted up could cause my bumpstop to be completely compressed and the drive shaft would punch out the front of the transfer case.

[lcwizard]

Or...you could buy reciever hitch 2.5" .25 square , seam removed.

Anyway, please tell me the only reason to run square is the cost.
If you want drag it on rocks they do make heavy wall DOM round. Round is far stronger in twist loads.
I've never seen a gun drilled square axle in a drag car

Originally Posted by Arya Ebrahimi

This really isn't that hard. It sounds like you already have all the answers, so why are you asking?

For the inner tube I would highly recommend using 2" 1/4" wall and just grinding a small groove in the one side that aligns with the weld seam on the inside of the outer tube. Clear as mud?