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03-23-08, 02:07 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Seattle
Posts: 298
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wanted - pics of cage to frame tie in
Anyone have images of cage to frame connections they don't mind sharing?
Thanks,
Andy
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1973 FJ40 -
Rimrock - 2
FJ40 - 0
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03-23-08, 07:19 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Supporting Vendor
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Crawlorado.com
Posts: 3,540
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These come with the fj60 Cage Kit..
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03-23-08, 08:09 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 244
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I have some in my ROTM
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03-23-08, 08:16 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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User title
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Whitehorse, YT
Posts: 890
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here are some from the metaltech site
Metal Tech Cage Products
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by yooper
It's not The Adequate Thread. 
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1975 fj40
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03-23-08, 10:27 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: in the garage after dark in UT
Posts: 5,500
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isotels will eliminate some viberation. i like that
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03-23-08, 10:37 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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The Anti-Leafer
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Dallas, Georgia
Posts: 2,266
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I used both body outriggers for the front tie ins:
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03-24-08, 12:36 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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Supporting Vendor
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Crawlorado.com
Posts: 3,540
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Yea, on my 40 my Body mounts are Beat!, The just hang too low, Im going to do away with the body mount and have one new mount that ties in the body/ Cage..
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03-24-08, 07:11 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Seattle
Posts: 298
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Thanks for the posts guys.
Does anyone have experience with both the hard connection or the isolated bushing one? I am doubtful if there is really that much vibration from the cage - maybe I am wrong?! Besides, wouldn't the hard connection also serve to stiffen the frame up?
I actually got a couple of the outriggers off a wrecked frame for the back of the sliders and "b" pillar of the cage. I haven't put too much thought into this but the general idea was to use 2 outriggers on each side (with some moderate reinforcements) to tie the sliders and the cage to the frame. Then plating the bottom as a skids (or boatsides in other words) to keep the bashing to a minimum. I haven't figured out how to keep them from collecting... mud.
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1973 FJ40 -
Rimrock - 2
FJ40 - 0
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03-26-08, 04:15 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Bologna, Italy
Posts: 232
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That's what I've done:
Hope will help you!
Francesco
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1972 Fj 40 - 1992 Hzj 73
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03-26-08, 10:21 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Obsessing
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Redwood City, CA
Posts: 680
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Here's a pic of how mine are done... FC Style... (click on pic)
(this is a picture of another rig, but mine is done exactly the same...)
The flat plate on top of the slider tie-in, is the mount for my A-pillar
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Mark
76 FJ40-- Weekend Warrior..  ...
97 Tacoma-- Daily..  ..
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03-27-08, 10:34 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Seattle
Posts: 298
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YZF,
I check in on your build over on pirate every so often. Killer fenders! FC comes up with some great stuff and really raises the bar. Thanks for reminding me of that image. I'll keep that one in the back of my head for sure!
Andy
__________________
1973 FJ40 -
Rimrock - 2
FJ40 - 0
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03-27-08, 11:07 AM
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#12 (permalink)
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Obsessing
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Redwood City, CA
Posts: 680
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Right on Thanks!
Yeah FC does some Incredible work! Wish I had half that talent..
I'm in the process of painting the aprons, and skins.. Gonna look good! I'll post up in that thread once I'm done.. (probably a week or two) Too busy with wedding planning stuff right now..
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Mark
76 FJ40-- Weekend Warrior..  ...
97 Tacoma-- Daily..  ..
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03-27-08, 07:02 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Seattle
Posts: 298
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I just got married in December. I feel your pain!
I'll keep an eye out for the painted product. Get those latches too while your at it!
If you get a chance, please post up a few pics of the top side of the connection of the tube relative to the door jamb. If you have some pics of the rear connections too that would be much appreciated.
Thanks again!
Andy
__________________
1973 FJ40 -
Rimrock - 2
FJ40 - 0
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03-27-08, 07:55 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Madison, MS
Posts: 1,702
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Is it best to put the bushing at the frame or under the floor?
Sources for the bushed sleve, bolt & tabs?
Thanks
__________________
Lash
CottonLand Cruisers Treasurer
TLCA: 13533
Madison, MS
77 FJ40 "GunRunner": DUI, RDB, 4Runner Calipers, York/Mudrak OBA, Aussie, 8274, Saginaw PS, Hell Creek Lift, 94" WB, 35x12.50 Hankook MTs, MAF U-Bolt Flips, F-250 Towers, MetalTech Cage, Choctaw Sliders, IPOR Skid, 8" Tuffy, Tiburon Seats... and a great group of friends who make it possible!
78 Hilux Trailer
08 200 Series Tow Rig
Kaizen - Continuous Improvement
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03-28-08, 10:23 AM
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#15 (permalink)
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Obsessing
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Redwood City, CA
Posts: 680
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awp_cruiser
I just got married in December. I feel your pain!
I'll keep an eye out for the painted product. Get those latches too while your at it!
If you get a chance, please post up a few pics of the top side of the connection of the tube relative to the door jamb. If you have some pics of the rear connections too that would be much appreciated.
Thanks again!
Andy
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Andy,
Do you mean pics of the "A Pillar" connection for the roll cage? The body being on the frame will be tough to get an aerial shot of the sliders...
I'll crawl under the rig and get some close up shots of the top side of the slider connections this weekend...
I don't have frame tie-ins for the B and C pillars yet.. Those are on the list of many things to do in the future...
Cheers 
Mark
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Mark
76 FJ40-- Weekend Warrior..  ...
97 Tacoma-- Daily..  ..
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03-28-08, 10:48 AM
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#16 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Seattle
Posts: 298
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Thank YZF,
Yeah, I was looking for where the A pillar plate connects to the slider bracket above and below the tub. I lapsed on my star so my box was full. Problem fixed now and should be up and running shortly! Sorry about that.
For the B and C connections I am sure FC has a killer detail cooking in his brain.
__________________
1973 FJ40 -
Rimrock - 2
FJ40 - 0
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04-26-08, 04:16 AM
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#17 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 229
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come on guys does anyone have any good photos of frame to cage connections?
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Thanks friend but I'm not calculating anything. Im just going on the "if I can get it to fit" calculator
You don't need adaptor plates. That's what gaffer tape was invented for.
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04-26-08, 09:52 AM
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#18 (permalink)
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what he said
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 13,100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OpTimuS
come on guys does anyone have any good photos of frame to cage connections?
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The pics shown are not good?
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04-26-08, 02:08 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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The Anti-Leafer
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Dallas, Georgia
Posts: 2,266
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Full 8 pt. cage tied into frame on my 55 - pic shows 2 tied into the front outriggers (1st & 3rd one).
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04-26-08, 03:43 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mace
The pics shown are not good?
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thats correct. they all suck.
Just kidding. I am a glutton for punishment.
The more pics the better as I am sure that this subject will come up again and again, and the more ideas the better. (oh and I freikin look forward to seeing what awesome ideas you yanks come up with everyday!  )
__________________
Thanks friend but I'm not calculating anything. Im just going on the "if I can get it to fit" calculator
You don't need adaptor plates. That's what gaffer tape was invented for.
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05-01-08, 01:25 PM
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#21 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: in the garage after dark in UT
Posts: 5,500
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i think the top three photos sum it up?
basic idea, and you can go beyond that but all the same in the end.
speaking of which i got to get mine on
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05-03-08, 08:56 PM
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#22 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 229
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Is that setup going to bete same as what Isotel is using?
What dia bolts are you using?
__________________
Thanks friend but I'm not calculating anything. Im just going on the "if I can get it to fit" calculator
You don't need adaptor plates. That's what gaffer tape was invented for.
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05-05-08, 02:37 PM
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#23 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: in the garage after dark in UT
Posts: 5,500
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pretty much yes.
bolts i will go measure
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05-15-08, 11:04 PM
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#24 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Seattle
Posts: 298
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So I am still working through the frame tie in connections.
I have one question that I hope you guys can help clear up for me -
Is it better to isolate the cage from vibrations, or stiffen the frame with welded connections?
I get a pretty good amount of twisting in the frame when it's flexed out. Generally speaking I think that is a less desireable characteristic. But I do DD it and vibrations are really wearing on the rig and me.
Thanks for the posts and pics so far!
Andy
__________________
1973 FJ40 -
Rimrock - 2
FJ40 - 0
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05-16-08, 02:00 AM
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#25 (permalink)
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Supporting Vendor
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Crawlorado.com
Posts: 3,540
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I Welded my Frame, Body, Cage, and Slider all Together, and there was no noticeable difference between now and before the cage w/30 year old Body mounts. If any thing it feels Better!
Frame Flex is not as bad as it was, Here are some bad photos of my frame Ties, Only the 4 around the front seats are done for now, still need to figure out the Rear ones without having my tire get up into it!
Last edited by Isotel; 05-16-08 at 02:12 AM.
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05-16-08, 06:11 PM
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#26 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 229
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haha Isotel that was just a chance for you to post up poser shots!!
__________________
Thanks friend but I'm not calculating anything. Im just going on the "if I can get it to fit" calculator
You don't need adaptor plates. That's what gaffer tape was invented for.
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05-16-08, 06:18 PM
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#27 (permalink)
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Supporting Vendor
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Crawlorado.com
Posts: 3,540
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OpTimuS

haha Isotel that was just a chance for you to post up poser shots!!
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no Poser shots are when the driver is out of the truck taking the photos
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05-16-08, 10:37 PM
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#28 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Seattle
Posts: 298
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Thanks for the post Isotel. Your rig is killer. One of these years I am going to have to get my self together and make one of the big cruiser events and meet you and your rig in person.
For some reason I thought you were going to isolate the cage from the frame using something like this:
Bushed DOM Sleeve [XM1] - $17.75
So you just welded it all together, huh? No worries about pulling the tub off in the future?
I found some images on Polyperformance where they used their version of the bushings to isolate the cage from the frame on a couple of their projects. If I had to choose right now I'd just make everything a hard connection. Saves cost, simple, and seems stronger to me.
Maybe I am answering my own question?
Andy
__________________
1973 FJ40 -
Rimrock - 2
FJ40 - 0
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05-17-08, 11:46 AM
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#30 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Seattle
Posts: 298
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D'Animal
I really dig the 45 - thanks for sharing! I am total lurker. I follow your thread pretty much daily. (PS... I don't think you should go back to SUA either!)
I've checked out FC's page a couple time looking for inspiration. I noticed he usually does do a hard connection at the tub.
I am 99.9% decided...
Thanks again for the input.
Andy
__________________
1973 FJ40 -
Rimrock - 2
FJ40 - 0
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