Another rear driveshaft! AAARGH!

[zcruz]

Did it again! Brand new shaft this time, first hill climb I came to. Gave it some throttle, just a little, and BANG. I'm trying to run an 80 rear axle with the stock 40 three speed transfer case in my fj40. The axle is not that far offset. only about three inches. Any body running this setup? Any suggestions other than replacing the rear axle with the correct offset? Just need a shaft that will hold up to some skinny pedal.

[Mace]

looks like you did a great job of maxing out the cv, causing it to bind and Boom..

[pygpen]

CV = The Suck!
Get a drive shaft from a 4 speed cruiser and be done.
PMK

[Cruiserdrew]

Originally Posted by Mace

looks like you did a great job of maxing out the cv, causing it to bind and Boom..

Yep-You bound it up and it broke. Saved you a t-case and a pinion. That's a good swap.

You definitely have some driveline issues, though.

Mini truck shafts are reputed to have about the best angular capability in the CV, in in a weird twist of fate, I have one I will sell you cheap if you need it.

I disagree with Pygpen, though. CV shafts can be very helpful in getting good dive line angles and being free of vibrations.

[Mace]

I also beat the crap out of my CV without issue..

[pygpen]

Maybe,
I've had bad experiences with CV's, I've broke two.
I've seen others that were set up right bomb them.
They take special clearancing to get any angle out of them.

I switched to a stock shaft with old joints and have run it... for a long time.
I have never seen a LC u joint break.
I have seen a few wear out after 30 years of service, but not bomb.
PMK

[crusier72]

What kind of shaft is that? What are the angles you're shaft needs to operate at? When you can answer that you have a better chance of putting a shaft together that will hold up.

[Isotel]

My CV out of an IFS Mini truck works great! and Cheep at the junkyards!

[wngrog]

Ditch the CV.

Then ditch the 3 speed case. Do that WAY before you offset the D60. That would be wise.

Anything is an upgrade to a Toy 3 speed case.

Once you fix the shaft issue, your next problem lies there.

[alkaline747trio]

What I have read always says that you shouldn't use a CV when you have a compound angle. Get a regular shaft...

[zcruz]

No binding this time. I've got the traction bar and a limiting chain that only allows it to droop about 3". Couldn't find any evidence of the joints hitting, although I've seen it before. Just not with the traction bar and limiting chain. I bought a rock box from AA so it would be a real wa$te to toss it now. Although I have thought of it. I guess my next step is to run a non cv and see what happens. The shaft I have now is a 1310 double/double cardon and it still vibrates so how could trying a single u-joint shaft hurt. I'd like to toss the cast yokes that bolt to the flanges.

[CruisinGA]

Originally Posted by alkaline747trio

What I have read always says that you shouldn't use a CV when you have a compound angle. Get a regular shaft...

True-
You'd have to point the pinion directly at the tcase output with regards to both angles to get a CV shaft to work right when the pinion offset is different vs the tcase output. (pretty hard to do with regards to pinion offset, think crabwalk, )

If you put a standard shaft back on, you need to get your pinion and tcase flanges parallel, otherwise the vibes will continue.

[pygpen]

Originally Posted by zcruz

No binding this time. I've got the traction bar and a limiting chain that only allows it to droop about 3". Couldn't find any evidence of the joints hitting, although I've seen it before. Just not with the traction bar and limiting chain. I bought a rock box from AA so it would be a real wa$te to toss it now. Although I have thought of it. I guess my next step is to run a non cv and see what happens. The shaft I have now is a 1310 double/double cardon and it still vibrates so how could trying a single u-joint shaft hurt. I'd like to toss the cast yokes that bolt to the flanges.

You're running a CV at each end....
I hate those twice as much!
PMK

[Isotel]

ive seen alot of 1310 joints explode.. my good friend broke 2 last weekend snow bashing.. I do believe the Toyota stuff is stronger..

[Tapage]

If you are running double CV why just get a mini CV and single u-joint at the other side .. I belive you have your pinion pointing to your tcase so the CV at the t-case output and you will be done.

[Mace]

run stock toy U joints on both ends.

Dump the CV's (1310's suck, really bad)

[zcruz]

The cv will cancel out the offset at the t-case, but not at the diff. It would be like running a cv without pointing the diff at the case. I think I am going to try and run the single joint on both ends. Then drop the diff just a bit, and just live with a little vibration. Isnt there anyone else with an offset axle? What are you running?

[TLCHopII]

a Ujoint at each end. Pinion is offset apx. 3 1/2" from the CL o fthe transfer output shaft. No vib.s that stand out over the 35" MTRs through all speed ranges on & off road.

[Poser]

Originally Posted by zcruz

What are you running?

Not Toyota....












4.3 Atlas 32 spline outputs, 1350 High Angle driveshaft, Sunray fabricated rear axle housing, Hi9/ARB 35spline/300M CTM axle shafts..




and listen to this:

Originally Posted by wngrog

ditch the 3 speed case. Do that WAY before you offset the D60. That would be wise.

Anything is an upgrade to a Toy 3 speed case.

Once you fix the shaft issue, your next problem lies there.

They are compounding issues. (your driveline failing and finding the next weak link)

If you really want the ability to run your junk hammer down, you are going to need to step up to quality components. Sell that doubler-case affair, and just get a quality transfer case based on a Dana 300. Find a Dana 300, rebuild it, install lower gears and upgraded front and rear output shafts, or get a STaK or an Atlas II.

An Orion HD would allow the 32 spline ouputs front and rear, and an offset rear output, but you will not get a front dig option with this. Once you use that, you will never want to go with anything else....




All it takes is Fun tickets®

[zcruz]

Thats a sweet setup. Thats probably my next mod. But until then I just want to make what I have work. (just for now) Then "when" I hit the lottery I'll do it right. Gotta say I like the multi low options with the doubler. Although low/low is sometimes too LOW. I've got the vortec now.

[Isotel]

Mine is a Completely Stock CV Toyota mini truck drive shaft.. Came out of the front of my 89 4runner.. 25" long

My Drive line sits ~1" Drivers side, and the pinion on the 3rd sits 1.5" to the Passenger side.. No vibrations up to 80MPH.. <-- Keeping it in my lane

[Mr. Notorious]

Originally Posted by zcruz

Did it again! Brand new shaft this time, first hill climb I came to. Gave it some throttle, just a little, and BANG. I'm trying to run an 80 rear axle with the stock 40 three speed transfer case in my fj40. The axle is not that far offset. only about three inches. Any body running this setup? Any suggestions other than replacing the rear axle with the correct offset? Just need a shaft that will hold up to some skinny pedal.

How long is your driveshaft? I'm running this EXACT setup, but haven't gotten out yet since I'm finishing up my front suspension. I ended up going with a Double CV driveshaft too. How'd you 1310's at the T-case end? No one could match that factory LC t-case stuff to switch over to spicer. I ended up with mini truck cv at the tcase, and spicer stuff at 80 series pinion. I ended up doing around a 6" wheelbase stretch so I'm hoping I won't have this problem...

Whats up with the disk brake at the tcase output? Mines a drum??

Does your 80 series rear have the factory elocker?

[zcruz]

Mr. Notorious, my rear driveshaft is 24" long. I am running 55 rear springs so the axle is moved back 4" or so. I sent the flanges to the shaft maker and they drilled them out to fit the spicer yoke. If you can, (sounds too late) don't bother with the double double. Mine still vibrated at all speeds, some worse than others. I have not replaced the shaft yet, but I am going a different direction. Not everything you work out on paper necessarily works in reality! I'll post as soon as I get there, (reality). The t-case brake is MAF. Good kit. I replaced mine because the drum was scored where the seal goes and I skipped the speedi sleeve. Also I left the e-brake on in 4low.Only problem is the cable gets water in it and it freezes. PITA. I have the factory locker and used the Downey cable conversion. That works wicked pissah too. Get your order in soon 'cause it takes a while for them to make one. The new t-case flange that comes with the disc kit is a 4spd unit.

[Mr. Notorious]

Wow dude thanks for all the help!

Funny, thats how I broke my ebrake cable too

One more quick question, did the disc brake conversion change your driveshaft length at all?

Yeah I already got the double CV, we'll see. I have a 4link so maybe I'll be able to dial in my pinion more to prevent vibes, we'll see. Everyone I talked to said a compound angle on a ujoint doesn't matter, doesn't sound like the case here...

Howcome you went with the cable activation over the electric for the rear locker?

[zcruz]

Naw, same length d-shaft. The disc bolts on to the back of the t-case flange with the d-shaft bolts. I used the cable locker for the rear because I bought the axle without a working electric locker. BIG $ to replace. The Downey kit was $150, and works very well. No brainer. I just went to the same hill that broke my rear shaft last night with some friends Heeps. Same hole broke 1 Dana 44 front ring gear on a 98 Tj with 36's. Then a rear axle shaft on an 04 Rubicon! HA HA. I'll take the d-shaft anyday. My buddy is going to assault it today with his full size Sh*ty with 40" boggers to claim his supremacy. Should be a good show!

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by zcruz

My buddy is going to assault it today with his full size Sh*ty with 40" boggers to claim his supremacy. Should be a good show!

please some pics and video for us ..! I wanna see that hole ..