rocks and rolls

[mrqtipp]

Full floater rear axle with disk brakes (chevy calipers). Front axle with OEM disk brakes. 488's with ARB's. Dont forget to set up the front axles using a manual to set the shims up correctly

[mrqtipp]

Started making preperations for the engine and drive train. I went with the sm420, ranger torque splitter and an orion transfer case. I did not want to use AA adaptors so went with a CNC aluminum adaptor plate that mates the SM420 to the transfer case.

[mrqtipp]

I originally decided to go with sm420, ranger torque splitter and an orion transfer case. I wanted to mount the engine and drive train as far forward as possible awa from the firewall. After a ton of measurements I welded scab plates to the frame and later in the build used OEM motor mounts.

[mrqtipp]

Used a lift to place engine and drive train into frame rails

[mrqtipp]

I did not take a good picture of the adjustable engine jig (green) that fits between the frame rails and allows you to make laterial adjustments before I fabricated to the scab plates and the chevy OEM engine mounts. Off set the engine 3/4 of inch for proper drive line allignement

[mrqtipp]

Used a hand crank (red) attached to the roll bar to with chains and a turn buckle to allign the drive train up, down and laterally. The tub ended up being a rolling storage shed.

[venpick]

Originally Posted by PKP80

Buy an 80

funny.

1 allready bought the 40
2 wanna go wheelin?

[mrqtipp]

After I got the allignment I wanted, I took chevy OEM engine mounts and fabricated a plate that bolted to the engine mounts. After I got the propper alignment I used cardboard to make a templete. Then cut some plate that went between the engine mount plate and the frame scab plate. Bolts are accesable and the engine mounts can be removed in a snap

[mrqtipp]

Made a lock washer to retain the input gear of the transfer case gear onto the output shaft of the sm420. I had to center punch one of the raised teeth on the original washer for the sm420 output shaft. I then drilled a 3/16 inch hole in the tooth and made sure that the hole was completely within the tooth. Then I drilled a 3/16 hole through a fender washer installed on the sm420 washer. Drive a 3/16 x 3/4 inch roll pin into the two holes and bend the fender washer over head of the bolt.

I then fabricated a crossmember that bolts up to the ORION. Welded scab plates to the frame drilled and tapped. Then fabed up some angle iron plates that bolt to the scab plates. Used puck like bushing between angle iron and the crossmember. Used lots of RTV on the crossmember support that bolts to ORION

[venpick]

by the way mrqtipp your 40 is awesome. very nice

[Radd Cruisers]

That is one hell of a great idea, I have struggled with engine hoists straps and whatever I can move the engine with and hope it does not move while making the engine mounts.

Originally Posted by mrqtipp

I did not take a good picture of the adjustable engine jig (green) that fits between the frame rails and allows you to make laterial adjustments before I fabricated to the scab plates and the chevy OEM engine mounts. Off set the engine 3/4 of inch for proper drive line allignement

[Tapage]

Dude .. is your front ARB air line run out of the front of your front 3rd member . ? little exposed .. nice buildup ( pretty fast ! )

[mrqtipp]

The green hose is actually dangaling and is the hose that runs from the reserve air tank to a front quick disconnect. ARB runs into the third member and is steel braided lines

[mrqtipp]

A couple of engine pics. Dual battery trays. Loose wiring for the front end lights etc.. Loose wiring for the TBI and and controller. Placed relays on a alumunum panel that mounts on the firewall hood ridge..

[mrqtipp]

Running all around disk brakes. Chevy monte carlo calipers in the rear and toyota OEM calipers up front. Running all steel braided lines with a brake lock inside the cab. I found an unusual master cylinder at the swap meat in Long Beach that is the operates off the same principle as a big rig. The master cylinder has a compressor and an accumulator which stores pressure. Even after the vehicle is not running (no vacuum to the booster/traditional breaking system) I still have over 20 power pumps at the pedel.

[mrqtipp]

I mounted the the engine and drive train as high into the body as possible and as a result I had to fabricate a new radiator mounting straps that lift the raditor 3inches in order to center the raditor to the fan.

Used two pieces of channel mounted to a stud that attaches to the stock placement of the cross member.

I ran two verticall rods which attache to another piece of channel on the top of the radiator. The vertical rods then tighten with nuts.

Fabricated a fan shroud that attaches to the bottom pieces of channel and to the top of the channel.

The radiator then attches to the firewall with two addjustable heim joints (rods).

[mrqtipp]

Side view of the radiator shroud

[mrqtipp]

I went crazy and went with extra wide Davis alumunum radiator that I got for half price. The radiator cools extremely well 190 to 210. The only draw back to the extra wide radiator was that it was a tight fit between the headlight buckets and I had to use two different radiator hoses and mate them together.

[camcruiser13]

you got a part number on that radiator or source were to get one?

[mrqtipp]

Ron davis part #1A-24193

[mrqtipp]

Couple of pics of the steering correction and the front ends rear shackles. I used a hole saw and drilled thru the frame and then used the OEM shackle hanger and machined it down to fit thru the frame. Using OEM bushings. The steering correction takes a beating so I welded some small plates to front to as gussetts. Welded some tabs to the bumper and used a old winch fairlead as a roller. Works pretty good when trying to get up on obstacles.

[mrqtipp]

I hate myself for going with leaf springs but since I am here I made the best of it. Welded some gussetts to the axle and made some shock mounts. 4-plus U bolt flip kit

[mrqtipp]

Made some supper long shackles for the front and then the worst thing happened the dredded front end wobles. I made a removable panhard bar. I have since fixed the shackles and dont use the panhard bar. Using a rancho 9000 as a steering stabilizer. Lots of adjustment..

[mrqtipp]

Had alcan springs make a pair of leaf springs with the orbit eye. The springs are amazing. I then used scissor shackles. I then removed the stock shackle hanger and used a piece of rectangle rim stock and used them as shackle hangers. The springs are much longer and I pushed my wheel base back to a little over 98 inches. I bearly clear the rear gas tank at full compression..

[Tapage]

Nice the panhard adition .. ( I thought I need to do something like in my Tencha ) .. I'm still thinking in you rear shackles .. how they perform under a heavy braking situation .?

[Twisty]

Nice buildup and sweet 40! I like the u-bolt flip! Any chance of a close up pic of how you did it?

[mrqtipp]

Thanks for the compliments. All around disks brakes I have the best stopping power I have ever had in a TLC. Absolutely no issues with springs or shackles in heavy breaking. I will upload pictures this weekend.