Help with 1 ton axle choice for fzj80 build

[Dusty]

Im preping my 80 for 1 tons after a recent flop. my yota axles are for sale.

I have a dana 60 hp ford (mid 80s) that I have discussed with a local shop about pulling the tubes and building it pass drop. considering dedenbaur (sp) c's and knuckles. will have arb, 35 spline outers and no selectable hubs (full time tcase) I am planning 5.86 gears and 38 or 40" rubber. (have 38" swamper)
I already have the ford but I could also sell it/trade it and get a low pinion chevy/dodge. will be 3 linked
or radius (not oe arms) . Poss coils-am looking for used on pirate

will be keeping it low and likely moving rear axle back 4-5" and relocating the rear crossmember (the one with track bar). considering 4 link triangulated or just reweld the oe crossmember and keep a track bar. even considering leaf springs as the truck has such a long ass anyway the leafs wouldn't be a hindrance

ideas?

rear is a delema. the rear is pass side pumpkin slightly. would a centered 14b be ok? there is a ff rear 30sp d60 on pirate right now out of a ford van and it has a pass drop. can you get a 35sp rear axle shaft (like a dana 70) in a dana 60 and do they have 35sp rear d60 arb's?

this is not web wheeling. this truck will happen soon

[locrwln1]

Originally Posted by Dusty

Im preping my 80 for 1 tons after a recent flop. my yota axles are for sale.

I have a dana 60 hp ford (mid 80s) that I have discussed with a local shop about pulling the tubes and building it pass drop. considering dedenbaur (sp) c's and knuckles. will have arb, 35 spline outers and no selectable hubs (full time tcase) I am planning 5.86 gears and 38 or 40" rubber. (have 38" swamper)
I already have the ford but I could also sell it/trade it and get a low pinion chevy/dodge. will be 3 linked
or radius (not oe arms) . Poss coils-am looking for used on pirate

will be keeping it low and likely moving rear axle back 4-5" and relocating the rear crossmember (the one with track bar). considering 4 link triangulated or just reweld the oe crossmember and keep a track bar. even considering leaf springs as the truck has such a long ass anyway the leafs wouldn't be a hindrance

ideas?

rear is a delema. the rear is pass side pumpkin slightly. would a centered 14b be ok? there is a ff rear 30sp d60 on pirate right now out of a ford van and it has a pass drop. can you get a 35sp rear axle shaft (like a dana 70) in a dana 60 and do they have 35sp rear d60 arb's?

this is not web wheeling. this truck will happen soon

I probably wouldn't use that van 60, check to make sure it's not a 61, they are set up for highway gears and take a little work to get everything to work right.

Also, yes you can do 35 spline shafts for 60's, very few have spindle bores big enough. The spindles have to be bored out, or other spindles welded on. The outside of the spindle is the same as Dana 70/14 bolt, its just the inside that needs to be made bigger, so that the bigger axle can fit in.

Yes, they do make 35 spline ARB's for 60's.

As far as centered rear axle, I would think that would put the driveshaft into too many angles. Of course the 80 axle is only off center a little bit.

Jack

[Dusty]

Originally Posted by locrwln1

I probably wouldn't use that van 60, check to make sure it's not a 61, they are set up for highway gears and take a little work to get everything to work right.

Also, yes you can do 35 spline shafts for 60's, very few have spindle bores big enough. The spindles have to be bored out, or other spindles welded on. The outside of the spindle is the same as Dana 70/14 bolt, its just the inside that needs to be made bigger, so that the bigger axle can fit in.

Yes, they do make 35 spline ARB's for 60's.

As far as centered rear axle, I would think that would put the driveshaft into too many angles. Of course the 80 axle is only off center a little bit.

Jack

thanks so a d70 spindle cant bolt on. I would hate to weld stuff like that. im sloppy but not that much

[D'Animal]

So have you priced a rock jock D60 axles?

I would not buy junkyard axles and plan to have them rebuilt.

[LC_Hamma]

Before you go all out on axle upgrades, I'd do a little more research on your current tranny/ tcase durability in front of much stouter axles/ tires. Can that stock LC stuff handle the extra torque/ traction (?) Maybe talk to Slee Off Road or somebody else running the setup you desire Oh yeah, on the link setup, try to avoid running a trac bar & triangulate whenever possible...

[Dusty]

Originally Posted by D'Animal

So have you priced a rock jock D60 axles?

I would not buy junkyard axles and plan to have them rebuilt.

Yes I have and thats why im not buying one. It doesn't seem like rocket science to build one-put tubes into housing and c's on the end and weld up. then buy shafts from yucon cut to length. But I have no experience here. A local shop builds axles for the local circle track crowd and I was refered here by a friend. the shop didn't seem concerned about rebuilding the dana 60

So it would be better to just use a dodge/chevy axle? i realy like the higher pinion ford

[alkaline747trio]

Why not chevy housing with ford chunk. And in the rear 14bolt, re-tube or try a DC shaft?

[Dusty]

Originally Posted by LC_Hamma

Before you go all out on axle upgrades, I'd do a little more research on your current tranny/ tcase durability in front of much stouter axles/ tires. Can that stock LC stuff handle the extra torque/ traction (?) Maybe talk to Slee Off Road or somebody else running the setup you desire Oh yeah, on the link setup, try to avoid running a trac bar & triangulate whenever possible...

I have a 88 yj in my driveway right now. just had the 2.5l and head rebuilt. was planning to put the one tons in it and pasture the 80. But I just love the 80 too much. its so nice to put my kids in and the drive to the trail is great in her. I just replaced the hg and had the head rebuils and with the turbo this motor is just so sweet. A SBC would be a downgrade unless it was one nice motor.

I have yet to hear of 80 tcase failure on this forum. A crawler box is on my list but 5.38 or lower gears and 38-40 rubber would be acceptable to me. I have yet to break a birfield but I am soft on the truck with respect to wheelspin and must be with 4.10 gears. I carry spares but love to wheel in the snow above fresno and i do not want to think of changing out a birf in the snow and I want bigger rubber

[Dusty]

Originally Posted by alkaline747trio

Why not chevy housing with ford chunk. And in the rear 14bolt, re-tube or try a DC shaft?

then I need to drop coin for the chevy stuff only to cut it up. I got the d60 for free.

Also have a 10.25 sterling. poor gear options however. 5.38 is as deep as i have seen

[Mace]

trade someone the ferd D60- for a chevy one...

the work you are talking about is money wasted..

[Dusty]

Originally Posted by Mace

trade someone the ferd D60- for a chevy one...

the work you are talking about is money wasted..

alright then i will

Mace what of the 14b? is there a problem with running a centered axle in the pass drop 80? she is a long WB.

Anything wrong with running the sterling over a 14b?

[Mace]

sterling is a HUGE centersection. The 14 bolt hangs down a bit less when trimmed (easy) and has a smaller footprint.

But, the sterling is 35 spline form the factory and aftermarket support has stepped up considerably lately. It is an excellent axle..

as long as you do not max out the U joint's capability (most likely 1350's) you will be cool with the offset..

also, ifyou shortened the 14 bolt on one side (same length shafts then) you would have a nice offset.. BUt then your front axle would need to be shortened as well. It depends on what you want and how much you want to spend..

[Dusty]

I dont want exotic. I just want to run 38-40's without worry on the 80. I want arbs, 35 spline and cheap reliability. no portals. I would just as well have the truck a full 69" wide. not planning hydro either. probably plain old spicer joints. disc brake conversion in rear

[Dusty]

oh yea yj 4 sale $3000

[LC_Hamma]

[Also have a 10.25 sterling. poor gear options however. 5.38 is as deep as i have seen]

I have seen 7.17's available for the Sterling rear.

[not planning hydro either I just want to run 38-40's without worry on the 80]

You WILL have worries once you get in the rocks w/ a stock steering setup. Hydro-assist would be a minimum choice.

Have you seen any of the Spidertrax stuff yet - knuckles, housings, etc.? www.spidertrax.com

[Dusty]

Originally Posted by LC_Hamma

[Also have a 10.25 sterling. poor gear options however. 5.38 is as deep as i have seen]

I have seen 7.17's available for the Sterling rear.

[not planning hydro either I just want to run 38-40's without worry on the 80]

You WILL have worries once you get in the rocks w/ a stock steering setup. Hydro-assist would be a minimum choice.

Have you seen any of the Spidertrax stuff yet - knuckles, housings, etc.? www.spidertrax.com

thanks for the link. I would hate to give up my ac for a a hydro pump. I have yet to see a successfull tap of the toyota box.

[Mace]

I would do the hydro assist. There have been multiple functional 60/80 boxes tapped for hydro assist. The pump is my only concern. Ask christo what he did to the short bus.


And run the 14 bolt.

[rondog]

Have you considered longfields for your 80 axles? action jackson ran 40's with no problems after installing them in his 80, and he wheeled that cruiser pretty well!!

Originally Posted by Dusty

I dont want exotic. I just want to run 38-40's without worry on the 80. I want arbs, 35 spline and cheap reliability. no portals. I would just as well have the truck a full 69" wide. not planning hydro either. probably plain old spicer joints. disc brake conversion in rear

[alkaline747trio]

Originally Posted by Mace

sterling is a HUGE centersection. The 14 bolt hangs down a bit less when trimmed (easy) and has a smaller footprint.

But, the sterling is 35 spline form the factory and aftermarket support has stepped up considerably lately. It is an excellent axle..

as long as you do not max out the U joint's capability (most likely 1350's) you will be cool with the offset..

also, ifyou shortened the 14 bolt on one side (same length shafts then) you would have a nice offset.. BUt then your front axle would need to be shortened as well. It depends on what you want and how much you want to spend..

Maybe I just don't know the 14b well enough, but having the same length shafts gives offset? The geometry just doesn't click in my head yet.

I'm following this thread fairly close because I have the same plans for my 80, just might take me a little longer. For the front I'm pretty set on a HP PS offset 60, aka Chevy housing/Ford chunk. Is this a worthwhile choice?

Also, with a centered rear 14b or 10.25..one would need a DC shaft, but is that enough to eliminate vibes?

[Dusty]

Originally Posted by Mace

I would do the hydro assist. There have been multiple functional 60/80 boxes tapped for hydro assist. The pump is my only concern. Ask christo what he did to the short bus.
I will. I saw the start of a tread on the box tap here in hardcore but never saw the conclusion. I know christo ran a seperate pump on the shortbus. he sells the bracket on his site


And run the 14 bolt.

yea but I have the sterling. is the sterling similar in weight? cant be heavier than a 14b.
http://www.ringpinion.com/DiffDetail...3dFord%2b10.25

http://www.ringpinion.com/PartsList....b-Differential

5.38 is deepest
http://www.ringpinion.com/PartsList....b-Differential

Originally Posted by rondog

Have you considered longfields for your 80 axles? action jackson ran 40's with no problems after installing them in his 80, and he wheeled that cruiser pretty well!!

Possible but I will put lots of highway on the truck like I do now. not trailered. And I dont want to wear out the longfields. I wont do a partime kit on the truck as that is too expensive. By the time I buy new gears for the toyota and longfields Im well on my way to a 35spline d60. The electric locker is getting anoying as it doesn't snap right in like an arb. If im going to have to drop the axle anyway for a 3 link the d60 just makes since. the ff yota rear is probably strong enough but I worry about that elocker and the gear choices are diff than the d60 so it must go too. also as I don't tow this truck I dont even want to think about breaking axle parts and that is the only part of this truck that keeps me wondering when I wheel her. With 1 tons this truck would feel imortal. (save for the sector shaft)

Also, with a centered rear 14b or 10.25..one would need a DC shaft, but is that enough to eliminate vibes?[/quote]
I ask similar. for wheeling I am not concerned. But what about 80mph (speed I would travel with 35" bfg as DD driver)

[CreeperSleeper]

I'm sure you will be fine with how long the rear DS will be... (I've been studying this out for me too.) However, I've also thought about extending my WB... What type of terrain do you usually run in?

[Dusty]

Originally Posted by CreeperSleeper

I'm sure you will be fine with how long the rear DS will be... (I've been studying this out for me too.) However, I've also thought about extending my WB... What type of terrain do you usually run in?

usually rock. never mud

[Mace]

Use the sterling if you have it then.. 5.38 is way low enough..

A RC ford chunk converted to PS drop is unnecessary IMHO. I get a stupid amount of travel in the front of my rig and I do not bind with a low pinion, stock D60. If you really want one, then do it. But I feel it is unnecessary and can actually cause limitations in uptravel in low slung rigs..

DC shaft will actually complicate things. On a DC shaft the pinion is supposed to be pointed at the tcase. If you run compound angles (up/down, and side/side) there is no way to actually put the DC shaft in the correct orientation. Use a standard shaft.

There are multiple vehicles that have used an offset driveshaft. LC's actually did for a short peroid of time. If the shaft is well balanced and you do not exceed the total angularity of the joint. You should be just fine.

Most newer stock D60's are 30 spline. Not enough of an upgrade unless you bore the inside of the spindles out (machine shop) to accept 1.5" 35 spline shafts..