Help with 1 ton axle choice for fzj80 build

[Dusty]

available in a hospital bone yard near you...
here is what they look like after you cut the excess off

[GreasedPiggy]

nice, and the 'patient' is a Dana 60 I assume?

very resourceful, what does one cost apprx from a liquidator???

[ringpinion.biz]

Actually there are 3 different bearing kits. D70 d70HD d70u.
What is it out of? What is the BOM number? This starts with a 6 and is on a metal tag, or stamped into the axle tube. If you cant find this, than inner pinion brg number and carrier brg number will tell for sure. As far as the rear shafts, the stock 35sp is pretty strong, but we do offer some upgraded ones that are fairly inexpensive too.

]

Originally Posted by Dusty

here are the axles. I will just order bothe install kits for the d70 tomorow if nobody knows how to tell what d70 this is.

[FRIZZLEFRY]

As was said above BOM is the best way.But bearing nubbers can get you what you need and tell you what pinion offset you have.

Stock 1.5" 35 spline axles take alot of abuse,but I have since upgraded to a set of Mosers

[Dusty]

Originally Posted by GreasedPiggy

nice, and the 'patient' is a Dana 60 I assume?

very resourceful, what does one cost apprx from a liquidator???

I don't know. But they are free if the hospital has left them outside and you drive by in pickup seriously these things get tossed all the time by hospitals but most haul them away because they have no discrete place to store junk. My hospital has a jusk pile. Anyone need a xray machine? there is one sitting in back of the hospital right now. it probably throws out enough radiation to cook your pizza. Im waiting for them to upgrade the MRI so I can have the 3000lb magnets in the old one.....

Originally Posted by ringpinion.biz

Actually there are 3 different bearing kits. D70 d70HD d70u.
What is it out of? What is the BOM number? This starts with a 6 and is on a metal tag, or stamped into the axle tube. If you cant find this, than inner pinion brg number and carrier brg number will tell for sure. As far as the rear shafts, the stock 35sp is pretty strong, but we do offer some upgraded ones that are fairly inexpensive too.

]

only thing i can see stamped is on the webbing of the housing c34835

Originally Posted by FRIZZLEFRY

Stock 1.5" 35 spline axles take alot of abuse,but I have since upgraded to a set of Mosers

ouch. and if you have the 55 iron pig then the 80 series must be the iron hefer

[FRIZZLEFRY]

Should be a BOM stamped into one of the axle tubes.Should be a 6XXXXX-X type of number.Could be hidden under some paint,goop, or rust maybe?

Here is my post form Pirate when I couldnt find the BOM on my 70
Dana 70 BOM help - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board

[Dusty]

parts are comming in:
ruffstuff brackets
d70 disk brake conversions
chromolies
35 spline dodge drive flanges (hubless)
42" iroks
summit 1 1/4" threaded machine joints
2" x 1/4" dom
install kits for gears Are still pending. I wish I hadn't ordered these from 4wheelparts.

I am still stumped on finding a pinion flange for the dana 60 and 70 that will allow me to use my toyota driveshafts. I believe I have searched well but cant find em. Anyone know where to get these? otherwise I will need to use one of those conversion ujoints and I don't want to do that iff poss

[CreeperSleeper]

Sounds like a killer build! Keep us posted. If this seems to work out well for you, I may scrap my buggy plans for a few more years and follow in your footsteps!

[freds40]

Originally Posted by FRIZZLEFRY

Should be a BOM stamped into one of the axle tubes.Should be a 6XXXXX-X type of number.Could be hidden under some paint,goop, or rust maybe?

Here is my post form Pirate when I couldnt find the BOM on my 70
Dana 70 BOM help - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board

Check Highangledriveline. Jess has them for mini truck.

[Dusty]

Originally Posted by freds40

Check Highangledriveline. Jess has them for mini truck.

thanks so much. I will be giving them a call tues (darned holliday)

Got some more done last night. tore down the d60 and press washed it today. perhaps i can clean it up with wire and sand tomorow. I have never tore into one before-beefy.

My little bro is down for the holliday and cleaned all the old brackets off the frame-he does great work. I wish he could just live at my house for a few weeks and finish the build for me.

[Dusty]

Here is another spot i am thinking of: I am thinking of doing a 3 link with trackbar in rear (just like front). the rear liks will be about 4 1/4 feet with the joints. I am planning on placing the frame side 3rd link (which will go to a tower just pass side lateral to the diff housing) on the pass side inner framrail just above the frame link mount which takes its link to the axle tube. (see pic)

My concern is that the oe trackbar mount (which I would like to keep) orriginates on the pass side frame and takes its link to the drivers side axle housing. any potential for bind like this? note that the rear driveshaft will be orriginating and running parelel to the 3rd link.

should I abandon the 3 link and go with a pair of rear radiur arms?

it is impossible to take a 3rd link from the drivers side as the gas tank is in the way. If it wasn't for the gas tank I would do a 4 link.

and yea my exhaust has got to be moved. I am going to keep my glasspack on the outside of the frame and have it exit in front of the rear wheel or under the truck

also: are these any good? saw them recently Dana 60 Outer Axle Seal [D60-OuterSeal] - $55.00 : Mad 4 Wheel Drive, Bulletproof Offroad Parts & Custom Axle Assemblies

[ats4x4dotcom]

If it were me, a rear centre with "knock on" cv rings, for over 38's, and a rear housing with d60 cv's mounted on it for bigger.

More psi steering pump pressure, and hydro assist for bigger than 38's toome thinks.

[planning these type of mods on an 80 at the moment, already have the 39.5 x 16.5/17 rockers, looking for a truck]

We have been modding the front diffs, and rears, and out of over 350+ of which were broken before they came to us, havent had a broken one back as yet, though 35's are the biggest, one on 37's we really see on an 80 here.

[Dusty]

42" iroks

[Dusty]

fitment issues

[Dusty]

more

[Dusty]

even more

[Dusty]

So the rear axle will move back a few inches as shown and I am considering moving the front axle rearward also a couple inches which will be easy to do as shown. It looks to be much easier to move the front axle rearward than to cut into my bumper and radiator support.

Another thing im looking at is the front axle lower links. as shown in the axle pick I only have about 2.5" of exposed axle shaft on the pass side of this dodge dana 60. as my incoming summit joints are already wider than that I will need to now fab my own bracket instead of buying one for this side

This axle is a dodge SRW dana 60. I like it as it has the extra beefy inner c's and I like the external hub design as I can use the bolt on external 35sp flanges which I like. (as apposed to inner drive flanges which are also cool). that 2.5" of pass side axletube lines up directly under the front upper coil catch which is convenient. I do worry that if my lower link on the pass side goes to this location My wheels may hit the link when turning. I may need to use a DRW cheby dana 60 up front.

The front is about at projected ride height while I would like the rear several inches lower than in pics

[CreeperSleeper]

Sweet...

[Dusty]

mocking it up
At stuff, sitting on the bump stop she should look like this in the front:

[Dusty]

At ride heigth with 26" at the frame she would lookj like this:

[Dusty]

This scenerio would give 5" of uptravel

[Dusty]

Running a 70" wms with my wheels would look likje this and require a 1.5" spacer each side.

To kjeep it this low will require some cutting.

Question: my mock up above shows 16" of spring from upper to lower perch at neutral height. Does anyone know if that corilates with the slee 4" or 6" springs? I have the 4" now but made a pair of 2" spacers

[adamsclarke]

You'll probably still have to drop your bump stops more if that's you full compression. You'll be fine until you get the wheels turned and then you'll really be into the fenders.

I run 3" of up travel at the bump stops on my comanndo with 1 tons. I have plenty of room to go more, but not if the wheels are turned.

After you get you alxe beack together...mount up the wheel and turn it so you can check. You'll want to do that anyway to make sure you keep your tires outs of your links (ask me how I know )

[clownmidget]

dusty, what is the spread between your lower links mount and upper link? are you getting 10" or less? looks like less than that to me.

why aren't you going to triangulate 4-link the rear and loose the rear panhard? you probably already said but i'm too lazy to read 4 pages...

those 42's are dopey big, you gonna hurt yourself. you keeping the whole body of this truck or is it a soon to be convertible, chopped rear w/tube doors?

i think if you cut the front fender wells out to just in front of the leading edge of the front doors you will have good space for moving the front axle back a bit but i think those 42's under full lock are going to be tough to keep off the frame or your links. might end up affecting your turning radius.

i like it man

[Dusty]

oops