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Old 07-17-04, 06:12 PM   #1
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Formula ih8mud? Kinda long winded but......

I've been hankering for a go fast off-road vehicle. I've already done the Desert Racing Dunebuggy thing. Waaaay fast (180 HP Turbocharged Corvair engine and I still have the motor), but it got stuck too easy when I couldn't use momentum. I'd been thinking about something based on a Toy mini since Toy trucks are so tough and plentiful.
I need something light and fast to explore the desert mtns surrounding my home. I can get anywhere quickly on my dirtbike, but when I get there I'm dressed improperly for exploring(riding gear). And the amount of Time I can spend there is limited by how much water I bring. My Cruiser honks compared to my buddies' rigs, but it takes 1.5hrs to get somewhere that I can get to in 20min on the dirtbike. I drive my 'Cruiser faster off-road than most FJ's can be driven on the hwy. My plan is to build the Mini platform into something like a formula/prerunner. Another issue is gas mileage.
I have a ton of components: 2-4.3/700R4's, 2-203's, 2-205's, several 465's, a 420, front Dana 44's including a high-pinion 44, rear Dana 60, rear 14 bolt, SBC, BBC, assorted FJ40 stuff, but no mini stuff. I posted a want ad and found myself needing/wanting to defend my choice of rolling chasis. http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=19013(toy mini p/u wanted)
Then I saw the Formula Toyota http://www.hendrixmotorsports.com/_wsn/page3.html
I dont need pre-runner speed (too many cows and rubbernecks in SUV's), but IFS Toy's kick a$$ on straight axle Toy's on rough roads. Now I'm thinking: Formula IFS Toyota rolling chassis/ 4.3TBI/ 700R4/ 203/ 205/ Alcan springs/ 33's on steelies.

I have learned a lot from from you guys on ih8mud. There's a terrific amount of brain power and fabricating experience here. Maybe you guys will brainstorm with me?


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Parts in, waiting for shoptime: 4.10fine-spline R&P F&Rr, ARB front, York, dual batteries under Rr floor.

Last edited by 78 One owner; 07-18-04 at 03:47 PM.
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Old 07-18-04, 01:59 AM   #2
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very interesting.

Thank you for the link.
I was unaware of the formula 1 toyota TRUCK. lmao

I had assumed too much, I thought you were looking to build something equal or
more capable then the cruiser, maintain streetability for public roads even
just around your house, and something with some/min body to not have to wear enviroment protecting clothing. You were looking for complete truck, complete w/ bad engine or last resort a rolling chassis.

Do you have the ability to fab your own frame? own chassis complete? what about using a X chassis from hen? something similiar? with that list of parts, why not use those parts, IMO you be better putting it together with what you have, just put a cruiser bezel on the front, LOL. You have much more control, you set wheelbase, you set drivers position, suspension setup, etc...

That 90 i mentiond in the other thread, has done alot for an IFS, but is a huge weak link in the truck. The ifs is not lightweight, not all that strong, not that capable, not cheap to fix, eats TREs, compared to a toy soild axle. Doubler and stock toy ifs front? doubler on 33's? 4.3 through 205 mentioned is not all that lightweight, but nice anyways.

buddies have had very bad luck with alcan springs.


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Old 07-18-04, 02:42 AM   #3
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I have been looking at doing a similar thing, using a gen 3 alloy engine, 4sp turbo 700 [l85] auto, hilux t case, and tacoma/tundra front suspension [prado here] with the type of set up for the front made by total chaos, camburg, fabtech etc.

Also using adjustable 9100 series bilstiens on custom mounts with a 12 point cage interlinked with the chassis, and coil sprung rear with a frame.

I have been colecting info for some time, to set the wheels in motion foir a fast desert, and high country summer vehicle.

not unlike these

tundra at DR





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Old 07-18-04, 11:52 AM   #4
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Yes I can fab my own frame. Thought using the mini chassis would speed things up and give me the ability to push it out of the way if something important needs shop space. I like the Cruiser bezel idea! I have some dought about the durability of the IFS myself. My friend has a Toy truck of each style, both have 33's. The IFS is a lot more comfortable. The straight axle ride is rather bone jarring. I haven't driven either one. Both are pokey though. The doubler idea seems kind of heavy to me too.

I have the 4.3's that each need bearings replaced, but run. One of the 700's has <2K mi. on it and has OD. 203 TC is an unknown quantity, (never heard anybody brag about one) but it mates up to the 700 easily I'm told. Not so the 205? Also have all the parts to mate 465/203 or 465/205.


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'78FJ40:33s,SBC,PS,SR,Rrflip,4"lift,Warn,Lockrite, Rockbox, Topless.
Parts in, waiting for shoptime: 4.10fine-spline R&P F&Rr, ARB front, York, dual batteries under Rr floor.

Last edited by 78 One owner; 07-27-04 at 12:55 AM.
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Old 07-18-04, 01:45 PM   #5
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When you mentioned what you were doing i was visually thinking alot closer to what the shed guy posted rather then the formula 1 toy chassis, but minus the super expensive parts, and still maintaining some/min. body work.

I am just having a hard time figuring out the terrain you are dealing with, 33" tires but use a doubler, "but it takes 1.5hrs to get somewhere" in the cruiser and thinking a IFS will be able to do the same. I am thinking a combination of terrain, but 33 and iFS just sounds too much like an anchor if you have any rocks bigger the say 12" dia. I say rocks cause you mention doubler. Rocks and IFS dont quite go together for me at all.

If you can just get a toy frame, run the 4.3 700 203 205, d 44f d60 rear SHAVED welded or locked or (14b REALLY shaved and maybe 38" tires), step up to say a 35 or bigger tire, and get that formula 1 kit. IF you can not find a frame, just get the kit and build your own frame under it. OR just buy or build your own chassis that fits your needs, likes, time, $$$, and being able to move it out of the way. IMO no need for toy truck, toy axles or any toy items other then the frame.

700r4 can be made to look like a th350, therefore allowing it to mount to any transfercase that came with a th350 infront of it. Can be done two ways, one is a aftermarket output shaft for the 700r4, the other is a alum or steel spacer on the rear. The aftermarket shaft invovles disassembly to install it and gives a shorter overall distance then the spacer. THe spacer is a less talked about way of doing it, approx 2"? machined spacer allows you to retain the stock 700r4 (4x4 version) shaft and trans. Spacer has a longer overall drivetrain length, is suppose to be not as strong as adapting the other way, but with extra support dont know why it couldnt be as strong. I have two 700r4 spacers laying here, but damn if i could find them for a measurement or a pic.

You can also take a 700r4 with a 700r4 adapter to a 208, drill and retap the face of the th350 version 203 and mate them directly. **** note: i have not done this but heard from many sources you can ****

So 700r4 can go to a TH350 version 203or205 with above mentioned methods these are most of the ways.

staying with the auto would be much different then the stick in the cruiser, the OD will help with MPG if you see any road speed where OD is used. IF you need the doubler in any way, run the doubler. IF only using a single case then the 205, 203 is heavy chain POS, 203 would run if it is what you have to work with and $$$$ is not there for 205. geared low range on the 203 is really its only good part.

$$$$$ is another issue.

just remember money and time spent on this vehicle the cruiser will get jealous, and if you build it to good you will end up driving this alot more then the cruiser.


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Old 07-18-04, 02:31 PM   #6
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Get a IFS toy truck, Link the rear with air shocks.

Do soem fab work to the IFS to give it the track width of a Tundra/Tacoma.

4.3 to the 700r4 to a mini tcase

stock rear axle with 35's and a buttload of cutting.

It will air out well and make 10" rocks dissappear.

A hell of a lot faster than the cruiser. and much more comfortable.

How much dust do you deal with? If a reasonable amount you will want to keep the cab portion of the truck and build around that..

Gott alove AC and a heater. Glass parts for a minis are cheap and can cut a LARGE amount of weight from one.


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Old 07-18-04, 03:28 PM   #7
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Can you throw me the link for the shed guy's post. Also, the idea is to quit beating my FJ up scouting crawler sites. Money and time fixing that damage eats up upgrade $$$.

Not really sold on the 700 or the 203. Don't like 465's because I'm spoiled by the FJ 4spd. Have an extra one of those too! Have most of a 4spd TC. Short on 3rd members for FJ's or I'd use FJ stuff. Thought about the 700 cause it would be user friendly. Maybe my wife would dare to drive it. (bleep you hammerhead!) She won't drive my FJ partly because of the clutch. Just as well though. I could be talked out of the IFS too. Unfotunately none of my 44's gear ratios match the rear ends I've got.

The roads were graded once upon a time. They have lava rocks embedded in them that the grader/dozer couldn't nick. Small ledges (< or = to 12in ) and out-crops. Rocks that roll off the hillside, landslides, washouts and very steep ascents ( all very scary though ). But the traction is usually good due to the embedded rocks. I intend to use it to scout out washes and boulder piles that are worth limping out there "our" in rockcrawlers. "we" also have "hideout" we'd use more if we could get there quicker.

I've got a Hausfeld bender so the fab work isn't a prob. I thought the truck frame would speed things up some, and I'd be able to roll it out of the way if something important needed the shop space. I own a shop, my buddie manages it, he's the mechanic/ fabricator, and I'm his part-time gofer. I can do the work myself, but he generally pushes me out of the way and does it himself.

Good input by the way!
Might even come up with parts money since I've already had enquirey about the turbo motor in an e-mail


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Any brag I make comes with 4 kids in back, and one of them likely will be sleeping

'78FJ40:33s,SBC,PS,SR,Rrflip,4"lift,Warn,Lockrite, Rockbox, Topless.
Parts in, waiting for shoptime: 4.10fine-spline R&P F&Rr, ARB front, York, dual batteries under Rr floor.

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Old 07-18-04, 03:45 PM   #8
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If I come up with a rolling chassis or donor truck that has a good T/TC I was planning something like you sugggest.
Dust isn't much trouble since I will probably be the only vehicle around. Or, waaaay out in front.
Temp not much of a prob either. S. Utah has mild winters with shirt sleeve temps in the day time. Wind provides AC. Don't haave AC in any vehicles except my wife's car.


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Any brag I make comes with 4 kids in back, and one of them likely will be sleeping

'78FJ40:33s,SBC,PS,SR,Rrflip,4"lift,Warn,Lockrite, Rockbox, Topless.
Parts in, waiting for shoptime: 4.10fine-spline R&P F&Rr, ARB front, York, dual batteries under Rr floor.
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Old 07-18-04, 04:35 PM   #9
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I still believe that IFS will work fine for what you want to do with it.

Rockcrawling, you already have a rig for that. Build a prerunner with a glass bed and front end.

Plus you will have heat in the winter for the times when I want to coem up for a snow run


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Old 07-18-04, 04:53 PM   #10
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The last two years, there have been no snow runs around here. Even up @10,000 ft the snow sucked. My snowmobiles stayed home.

I want to ditch the wt., that's why I'm thinking Toy. Light and strong.


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Any brag I make comes with 4 kids in back, and one of them likely will be sleeping

'78FJ40:33s,SBC,PS,SR,Rrflip,4"lift,Warn,Lockrite, Rockbox, Topless.
Parts in, waiting for shoptime: 4.10fine-spline R&P F&Rr, ARB front, York, dual batteries under Rr floor.
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Old 07-18-04, 05:12 PM   #11
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I know what the snowpack is up there. I watch it all winter long (I am a hydrologist in Vegas. Teh water you get in the mountsins makes for how much water I can pull out of Lake mead)

I am hoping for a good snowpack this year



For the money you cannot beat the formula chassis.
And a decrease in weight will help a lot in the suspension dept.


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Old 07-18-04, 06:00 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mace
I am hoping for a good snowpack this year
Even if I didn't like snow, I'd want a bunch since most of the springs never did run this year
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mace
For the money you cannot beat the formula chassis.
And a decrease in weight will help a lot in the suspension dept.
Especially since I can build a replica in my shop. I need a good source for steel tubing. Got one in LV?


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Any brag I make comes with 4 kids in back, and one of them likely will be sleeping

'78FJ40:33s,SBC,PS,SR,Rrflip,4"lift,Warn,Lockrite, Rockbox, Topless.
Parts in, waiting for shoptime: 4.10fine-spline R&P F&Rr, ARB front, York, dual batteries under Rr floor.
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Old 07-18-04, 09:03 PM   #13
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BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

Vegas sucks for tubing.

I only have one source for Dom if that is what you are interested in and he charges a mint.

HREW is available enough. And still not too bad.

What dimensions are you looking for?


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Old 07-18-04, 10:12 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mace
Vegas sucks for tubing.
Snow tubing is pretty bad I imagine but I bet you can do some pretty extreme tubing when it rains.

Not sure about type or size right now. back to ya.


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Any brag I make comes with 4 kids in back, and one of them likely will be sleeping

'78FJ40:33s,SBC,PS,SR,Rrflip,4"lift,Warn,Lockrite, Rockbox, Topless.
Parts in, waiting for shoptime: 4.10fine-spline R&P F&Rr, ARB front, York, dual batteries under Rr floor.
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Old 07-19-04, 10:19 PM   #15
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The shed guy post, is the pics and link he has in this post. LOOK UP.

you have a hossfeld #2? might have a few ?s if you do.


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Old 07-20-04, 12:44 PM   #16
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I don't know which one it is. I just got it used, and haven't set it up yet. Been lusting for it for a long time. It belonged to my ex-stepdad. I didn't realize that was a link @ the top of the pic. I don't know $hit about all this internet stuff, but I'm learning. Thanks!


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Any brag I make comes with 4 kids in back, and one of them likely will be sleeping

'78FJ40:33s,SBC,PS,SR,Rrflip,4"lift,Warn,Lockrite, Rockbox, Topless.
Parts in, waiting for shoptime: 4.10fine-spline R&P F&Rr, ARB front, York, dual batteries under Rr floor.
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