Fuel System Suggestions for Chevy 350 TPI

[Bailey]

About to put a Chevy 350 TPI into 77 FJ-40, but I need to run a pressurized fuel system. Anyone with any experience or suggestion on a good way to do this? I've been considering mounting a Camero electric fuel pump onto my fuel quantity sending unit, then going from there.

[woody]

I don't recall the pressure needs on the TPI....I do know that most people recommend an in-tank fuel pump since they tend to last longer and run cooler. However, it's tough to retrofit a stock tank for the pump.

Master E2000 is the common external pump for TPI setups.

"all" fuel systems are pressurized, TPI just requires a higher pressure than carbs or TBI systems.

[Bailey]

Hey Woody,
Thanks for the input, This engine is from a 1990 Camaro IROC, and I believe the stock fuel psi runs at 42 psi, this engine is mostly stock. I like the idea of an in-tank pump because of the cooling effect and should also be a little quieter, but like you said "it's tough to retrofit a stock tank for the pump". Was hoping someone has already tried and I could learn from their experience. I have also considered having a small (maybe 1 gallon) aux. tank fed from the main tank that could house the pump - this would always keep the pump sumerged, cool, and quiet and could be located closer to the fuel rails. Looking for ideas and experience stories here... anyone?

[CruisinGA]

Maybe gumbo will go into more detail since he did it, but I've heard it mentioned that it is a good idea to run a low pressure high volume pump in the tank feeding a small (quart-gallon) tank from which the high pressure pump pulls, helps with running on inclines, as there is a small amount of gas in the small tank to account for a sloshing main tank.

No experience here, just relaying what I have read and did not see here.

[LandCruiserPhil]

Contact a street rod shop or gas tank manufacturer and purchase a factory style fuel pump tank bung. Cut a hole in your factory Toyota tank and weld it in (I would have someone else do the welding). I was able to use the GM sending unit also. I run a 91 350 TPI out of a TA in my 40. You will never have a fuel issue if you use OEM parts.

Phil

[helocat]

I have been running an external high pressure (HP) pump for the last three years for my 383 TPI. (my TPI parts are also 90’) The HP pump draws from a small reservoir (I call it a header tank from my model helicopter flying) that is fed by a low pressure pump drawing from the main tank. This set up has worked great, until you run in extremely hot conditions. I have been using a pump right off a Volvo 87’ 740 Turbo. Its is a great external pump and right off the car the whole pump assembly is rubber isolated and even has the monster Bosh filter mounted right next to it. It puts out about 110psi (Adjustable regulator on the motor drops it down to 45psi) and more volume than my 383 needs so it does not lack in performance. My biggest issue is fighting the hot areas. I am moving to an in tank pump.

I am switching to an aluminum fuel cell and retrofitting a stock GM pump to mount inside the tank. The plan is to mound an AN-6 bulkhead fitting on top of the tank. This will put a male AN-6 mounting point inside the tank on the roof of the tank. Using a stock GM pump right from the wrecking yard I am cutting the stock steel feeder line so the pump will be suspended just off the floor of the tank. The feeder line is 3/8” hard line, so an AN-6 tube nut adapter will bolt right on. With the hard line sporting a female AN-6 mount I will just reach inside the tank and thread the pump right onto the bulkhead fitting. I am going to try to use the stock GM pass through set up for the wiring, but if not I will just swap it over to a MIL Spec. electrical plug to get the juice to the pump.

I have had all the parts to do this sitting I just have not had time to work on my own truck for a few months now. Once I get this set up I will post up photos.

Mark

BTW: #1 failure rate for all FI motors is loss of fuel pressure. Do your self a favor right off the bat and put an inline pressure gauge under the hood. This way you can trouble shoot any rough running conditions by just popping the hood.

Also the stock hard lines feeding the motor are also 3/8”. I put AN-6 hard line adapters ($5) on the stock lines and eliminated having to buy the $27+ o-ring Saginaw metric adapters sold for this conversion. I run full SS braided lines for the high pressure fuel lines. The OEM return line is 5/16” I am just running FI rubber hose (not the cheep bulk stuff) on this with FI hose (Full wrap) clamps for the return line, works great and much cheaper than SS braided line. This set up has been in use for over three years now, no issues.

[Bailey]

Thanks for the input guys, especially all the detail Mark, if anyone else has more please add to the discussion.

[Gumby]

I have a GM sending unit/ pump in my rear tank. I used a 4 inch hole saw to cut a hole in the top. I cut the top out of a GM tank around the flange. Then I welded the GM flange to the new tank and dropped the GM sending unit/pump assy into the hole. I was worried about the lack of baffles so I took a 8 inch chunk of 4" pipe and welded the bottom shut. Then I welded a GM fuel pump flange to the top and installed a pump. That unit is mounted to the firewall flange under the master cylinder. The rear tank sends out to the surge tank and gets a return from it as well. The surge tank sends to the FI unit. The return from the TBI goes to the main tank. No word on how it works yet outside of driving around the parking lot. They both use the same type of pump for a backup if needed. I can swap a couple of hoses and feed the TBI from the rear tank if one pump should fail.
I feel the in tank pump is best for our uses. Lots of hot continuous running. However, with one exception, I have heard good things about the Volvo external pump. The complaint was at Moab in the heat, IIRC.
I also use the high dollar high pressure rubber line. It's about $7 per foot. I run hard metal lines everywhere I can, with the rubber at the ends with good clamps. My TBI is only running 14psi max as opposed to a 45 psi TPI/MPFI, but it is worth the money and time to keep from having a high pressure fuel leak.