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Old 04-13-08, 02:31 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustanutley View Post
PS building a 4link that works well is not "easy"
I agree fully (earlier I said something about believing that the 4-links are a piece of cake to build and design. but you can get them terribly wrong and this results in bnding of joints, diff movement, and the pinion rotating through the movement of the diff.)

But what do you mean in your other post about this

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Originally Posted by bustanutley View Post
you are missing a key dimension that tells me it is strong
what am i missing?


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Thanks friend but I'm not calculating anything. Im just going on the "if I can get it to fit" calculator

You don't need adaptor plates. That's what gaffer tape was invented for.
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Old 04-13-08, 10:50 AM   #32
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wall


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Old 04-13-08, 01:46 PM   #33
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ahhhhh stand-by on wall........


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Thanks friend but I'm not calculating anything. Im just going on the "if I can get it to fit" calculator

You don't need adaptor plates. That's what gaffer tape was invented for.
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Old 04-13-08, 01:56 PM   #34
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2" x @ least .250" wall.

But,

I have done some research and have fund that if I use .500" wall, I can thread the pipe directly (to mount screw my JJ into) instead of welding a time-sert into the .250"" wall. I am a machinist by trade so thread a length of hollow bar is nothing.

Plus if I choose to go with a true 3-link and panhard in a 60-series L/C being relatively 'bare bones' heavy when compared to a mini-truck then using the thicker wall means I will have the sadded strength as well.


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Thanks friend but I'm not calculating anything. Im just going on the "if I can get it to fit" calculator

You don't need adaptor plates. That's what gaffer tape was invented for.
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Old 04-13-08, 03:14 PM   #35
what he said
 
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I am still trying to figure out why you would do a true three link (with a panhard) on the rear of a truck.

2" x .500 wall uppers would be an unbelievable waste...


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Old 04-13-08, 04:00 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Mace View Post
I am still trying to figure out why you would do a true three link (with a panhard) on the rear of a truck.

2" x .500 wall uppers would be an unbelievable waste...
I am no quite sure why I am going to do a true 3-link in the rear of my truck.

@ th moment I am thinking that because I am going custom and I am only trying to build something reliable and simple I will go with the 3-link. 3-links are appealing because they are simple (and even though that may sound lke an understatement, it is true).
By utilising a panhard it means I can have parrellel upper and lower links. This gives me more room for a chassis tool box like I am already experimenting with:



The parrelel links can also be identical lengths and thus helping in carrying on-trail spares.


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Thanks friend but I'm not calculating anything. Im just going on the "if I can get it to fit" calculator

You don't need adaptor plates. That's what gaffer tape was invented for.
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Old 04-13-08, 04:22 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OpTimuS View Post
I am no quite sure why I am going to do a true 3-link in the rear of my truck.

@ th moment I am thinking that because I am going custom and I am only trying to build something reliable and simple I will go with the 3-link. 3-links are appealing because they are simple (and even though that may sound lke an understatement, it is true).
By utilising a panhard it means I can have parrellel upper and lower links. This gives me more room for a chassis tool box like I am already experimenting with:



The parrelel links can also be identical lengths and thus helping in carrying on-trail spares.


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Old 04-13-08, 04:36 PM   #38
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?????


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Thanks friend but I'm not calculating anything. Im just going on the "if I can get it to fit" calculator

You don't need adaptor plates. That's what gaffer tape was invented for.
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