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Old 08-07-07, 09:27 PM   #1
......what?
 
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FJ80 pre-fabbed 3-link option????

http://www.trail-gear.com/trail-link.html

It looks like this could be used as a cheap option for 3-linking the front of an 80. All the brackets seem to work with the 80's steering and seem to have good strength and length.


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Old 08-07-07, 11:16 PM   #2
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You're saying you could use this for the front? Could you get two of these kits and do the front and rear?
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Old 08-08-07, 11:49 AM   #3
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It is a nice colletion of parts, but honestly, it would require as much modification/ fabrication as starting from scratch..


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Old 08-08-07, 01:10 PM   #4
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not to mention trail gear......


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Old 08-08-07, 01:13 PM   #5
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Poly Performance has a similar kit, and a little cheaper too


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Originally Posted by pagemaster
It shows how weak and underbuilt the 100 series is.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hvha8N3a28U
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Old 08-08-07, 05:25 PM   #6
......what?
 
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Mace, you're right...the same amount of fab, but it's the neat little package that makes it all better. Plus it raises the axle side panhard, which would help with alignment (FJ60 pitman arm to keep the same angles?). I like T-G, maybe if I was older and knew about the whole 'stealing design' thing, I wouldn't. But they have a good price, and helped me out on my sliders that I am putting on tonight, VERY beefy...

I'll check the Poly version, but I recall it having less included than the T-G. kit.


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-- No air filter, Custom Burple (blue and purple) Paint.

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Old 08-08-07, 05:38 PM   #7
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Yeah the Poly kit does not account for the offset axle, but could be made to work and the Poly guys are good folks


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McColgan for Prez

Originally Posted by pagemaster
It shows how weak and underbuilt the 100 series is.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hvha8N3a28U
Mud orientation video
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Old 08-08-07, 05:53 PM   #8
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I am betting without a lot of lift, that axle end panhard will be a problem (frame interferrence)


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Old 08-09-07, 09:02 PM   #9
......what?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mace View Post
I am betting without a lot of lift, that axle end panhard will be a problem (frame interferrence)
6" enough?


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-- Slee 6"/OME 863J, Pro-Comp 14" ES3000/N74L, Gen. 2 Slee Front Control Arms, T-G Sliders, Ext. Diff. Breathers, DBA Gold S/D Rotors, Slee SS Brake Lines, 5.29s, Aussie Locker'd rear, 37x14 IROK Bias/38.5x11 Boggers, some black bed-liner on the outside, some orange inside, 180k.

'85 Honda Accord - 55MPG!!!
-- No air filter, Custom Burple (blue and purple) Paint.

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Old 08-10-07, 02:05 AM   #10
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doubt it would be under compression...


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Old 08-14-07, 10:56 AM   #11
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Well, things can always be modified if they need it. But, I guess I have a while to ponder on it.


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'92 - 3FE POWER'D!
-- Slee 6"/OME 863J, Pro-Comp 14" ES3000/N74L, Gen. 2 Slee Front Control Arms, T-G Sliders, Ext. Diff. Breathers, DBA Gold S/D Rotors, Slee SS Brake Lines, 5.29s, Aussie Locker'd rear, 37x14 IROK Bias/38.5x11 Boggers, some black bed-liner on the outside, some orange inside, 180k.

'85 Honda Accord - 55MPG!!!
-- No air filter, Custom Burple (blue and purple) Paint.

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Old 08-14-07, 04:13 PM   #12
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you'd be better off to do it yourself (as long as you can weld really well and you can figure out alot of odd things you will encounter) If you need a kit you may be better off to have someone else do it...not trying to be an ass, just realistically, you are going to put it back on the road and drive it at speed, you better be pretty confident in your skillz


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Old 08-14-07, 04:29 PM   #13
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I need a kit because I dont have the time or the right tools to make everything as well as the kit is made. I can weld, and cut a few things, but dont have the right tools to make any bends or notches. Plus, with college, I wont have but about a weekend to get it done, maybe 2.


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'92 - 3FE POWER'D!
-- Slee 6"/OME 863J, Pro-Comp 14" ES3000/N74L, Gen. 2 Slee Front Control Arms, T-G Sliders, Ext. Diff. Breathers, DBA Gold S/D Rotors, Slee SS Brake Lines, 5.29s, Aussie Locker'd rear, 37x14 IROK Bias/38.5x11 Boggers, some black bed-liner on the outside, some orange inside, 180k.

'85 Honda Accord - 55MPG!!!
-- No air filter, Custom Burple (blue and purple) Paint.

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Old 08-14-07, 05:22 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alkaline747trio View Post
I need a kit because I dont have the time or the right tools to make everything as well as the kit is made. I can weld, and cut a few things, but dont have the right tools to make any bends or notches. Plus, with college, I wont have but about a weekend to get it done, maybe 2.
Again, the modifications you would have to make to that kit are extensive enough that starting from scratch would be less time consuming...


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Old 08-14-07, 07:00 PM   #15
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You sure? It looks to me that the panhard axle side would be the only issue and that the rest of it would be just weld on.


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'92 - 3FE POWER'D!
-- Slee 6"/OME 863J, Pro-Comp 14" ES3000/N74L, Gen. 2 Slee Front Control Arms, T-G Sliders, Ext. Diff. Breathers, DBA Gold S/D Rotors, Slee SS Brake Lines, 5.29s, Aussie Locker'd rear, 37x14 IROK Bias/38.5x11 Boggers, some black bed-liner on the outside, some orange inside, 180k.

'85 Honda Accord - 55MPG!!!
-- No air filter, Custom Burple (blue and purple) Paint.

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Old 08-14-07, 07:30 PM   #16
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you'll have steering issues...the tierod is a pita to deal with


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Old 08-14-07, 11:00 PM   #17
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Is that a general yota axle thing, or is this 80 specific? Action jackson didnt seem to have trouble with it, neither did sarmon(forgot his name). Couldn't you just mount the lowers right above the tie-rod and not have any issues.


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-- Slee 6"/OME 863J, Pro-Comp 14" ES3000/N74L, Gen. 2 Slee Front Control Arms, T-G Sliders, Ext. Diff. Breathers, DBA Gold S/D Rotors, Slee SS Brake Lines, 5.29s, Aussie Locker'd rear, 37x14 IROK Bias/38.5x11 Boggers, some black bed-liner on the outside, some orange inside, 180k.

'85 Honda Accord - 55MPG!!!
-- No air filter, Custom Burple (blue and purple) Paint.

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Old 08-15-07, 10:31 AM   #18
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I'd just say that doing it isn't ever going to be a "kit". Without the proper access to fabrication tools and skills it just shouldn't be attempted - you'll just frustrate yourself and end up with something a whole lot different than what you envisioned. It is also not necessarily a "cheap" process either, even if you think all of the labor will be DIY. The joints, dom tube, plate and brackets will add up even if you have the above mentioned tools and skills.

IMO, if you are dead set on having a 3-link, find a shop or fabricator that you can work with and afford and let them do it (maybe with your help).

You can leave the tierod in it's stock location but it will be the lowest point on the back side of the front axle.

The draglink and front panhard will work but with bumpsteer unless you go with a highsteer setup like Christo has on the Blueberry. BTW, he is uncertain if it will fit/work on the front of an 80 without interference so be prepared to deal with that. At that point you'll want to consider hydro-assist or full-hydro so there is another expense to consider.


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Old 08-15-07, 10:57 AM   #19
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Buying a kit like that is just going to frustrate you with the 80. Every time we do a project and we work around something we either already had or prefabbed parts, it is more of a pain than doing it from scratch.

The links is the minor issue, the steering is what is going to cost you.


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Old 08-15-07, 02:20 PM   #20
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Ok, could one keep the steering factory, deal with the tie-rod being vulnerable, and still use that kit (chop off the panhard mount from the kit and just use the links and link mounts)? Getting clean angles, notches, and bends are what I dont have the tools for, and it seems like that is just enough that I shouldn't even attempt this 3-link. I wonder if I have the skills to do an X-link???


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'92 - 3FE POWER'D!
-- Slee 6"/OME 863J, Pro-Comp 14" ES3000/N74L, Gen. 2 Slee Front Control Arms, T-G Sliders, Ext. Diff. Breathers, DBA Gold S/D Rotors, Slee SS Brake Lines, 5.29s, Aussie Locker'd rear, 37x14 IROK Bias/38.5x11 Boggers, some black bed-liner on the outside, some orange inside, 180k.

'85 Honda Accord - 55MPG!!!
-- No air filter, Custom Burple (blue and purple) Paint.

Upstate Cruisers
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Old 08-15-07, 03:39 PM   #21
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You talking doubly triangulated 4 link or a watts link?


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Old 08-15-07, 04:22 PM   #22
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Neither...search the Australian 4wd monthly site for x-link. It's factory control arms tied together in front of the axle.


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'92 - 3FE POWER'D!
-- Slee 6"/OME 863J, Pro-Comp 14" ES3000/N74L, Gen. 2 Slee Front Control Arms, T-G Sliders, Ext. Diff. Breathers, DBA Gold S/D Rotors, Slee SS Brake Lines, 5.29s, Aussie Locker'd rear, 37x14 IROK Bias/38.5x11 Boggers, some black bed-liner on the outside, some orange inside, 180k.

'85 Honda Accord - 55MPG!!!
-- No air filter, Custom Burple (blue and purple) Paint.

Upstate Cruisers
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Old 08-15-07, 04:44 PM   #23
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Okay, now I know what you are talking about.


X link would be a neat way to take care of things..


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Old 08-16-07, 01:30 AM   #24
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It is said to handle about the same, just more balanced, as just pulling a front control arm bolt from one side. Pulling that bolt gave a great ride and plenty of flex.


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'92 - 3FE POWER'D!
-- Slee 6"/OME 863J, Pro-Comp 14" ES3000/N74L, Gen. 2 Slee Front Control Arms, T-G Sliders, Ext. Diff. Breathers, DBA Gold S/D Rotors, Slee SS Brake Lines, 5.29s, Aussie Locker'd rear, 37x14 IROK Bias/38.5x11 Boggers, some black bed-liner on the outside, some orange inside, 180k.

'85 Honda Accord - 55MPG!!!
-- No air filter, Custom Burple (blue and purple) Paint.

Upstate Cruisers
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