[GreasedPiggy]

Originally Posted by boots4

Did you get all your parts yet for your turbo rebuild? It really was pretty straight forward. Once I'm actually done with it I thought I'd share that on the 4btswaps board. For me, hitting it to spin it helped free it up and putting it in a vice to hold it solid.

Great method. Sometimes they are so tough to get apart.

Yes, I've got a turbo kit and also the twin port gasket for the manifold-to-turbine connection. Haven't started any building.

I have a couple of engineer buddies whom I told about the 4BT
and they really got into it. One is a VP at Garret and the other
owns a Turbo shop.

Knowing that I intend to stay with the Holset, they have been working on a new design for the Exhaust manifold. They are
absolutely sure there is some "free horsepower and torque"
there. So I plan to share that on the Swaps forum if it all
pans out.

Look forward to the turbo rebuild on 4btswaps!

[boots4]

Originally Posted by GreasedPiggy

Knowing that I intend to stay with the Holset, they have been working on a new design for the Exhaust manifold. They are
absolutely sure there is some "free horsepower and torque"
there. So I plan to share that on the Swaps forum if it all
pans out.

Look forward to hearing about that!

[CreeperSleeper]

Lookin good, Boots. BTW- (Just in case this hasn't been brought up) Did you realize that Holset uses Garrett flanges on the exhaust side of the turbo? In other words, you can bolt up a Garrett T3 or T4, depending on the flange. (I think yours is a T3 flange.) I see that you are rebuilding the Holset, so it doesn't really matter, but it might be good for future referance as Garrett turbos are the most commenly modified. Therefore you can build them however you would like.

[Tapage]

Huge GT28

[CreeperSleeper]

Originally Posted by Tapage

Huge GT28

That's not a Garrett... (But nice try! )

[boots4]

Originally Posted by CreeperSleeper

Lookin good, Boots. BTW- (Just in case this hasn't been brought up) Did you realize that Holset uses Garrett flanges on the exhaust side of the turbo? In other words, you can bolt up a Garrett T3 or T4, depending on the flange. (I think yours is a T3 flange.) I see that you are rebuilding the Holset, so it doesn't really matter, but it might be good for future referance as Garrett turbos are the most commenly modified. Therefore you can build them however you would like.

The holset has a divider in the middle for the exhaust pulse to keep the turbo spinning a little more smoothly (cylinders 1-4 and 2-3 exhaust manifold are paired together) and after a quick search I didn't see a T-3 having that divider. I wonder how much of an impact that would have, maybe a little less efficient or if it would lead to something worse at high boost. I'm still an infant on my turbo knowledge. Just wondering out loud.

[GreasedPiggy]

Your H1C is a twin scroll, so it already has a good efficiency over any non-twin scroll. The difference is not only in the port but the internal design of the turbine.

You can get some advantages from improving the exhaust manifold, paying attention to the lengths of the runners.

The volume of the turbine can be decreased by swapping out the stock one but both higher rpm performance and possibly fuel economy will be hurt.

[Captain23]

Lookin spanky!

[boots4]

Saturday was spent helping down a 60 foot tree with massive ivy growing up it. It looks like we have at least 2 more saturdays worth of work on that tree to go before it can come down completely so that will step into some cruiser time. I get the wood and it's always nice to be warm in the winter so I don't mind helping. All the other time I had I spent wrenching.

This showed up on friday so i was able to get some work done on my turbo. It's not completely together but pretty close. Inside that big box was this little package that had the oil seal that I needed.



On top is the new seal. Bottom left is the seal that I munched and on the bottom right is the old seal. You can see the groove in the old seal and why I couldn't reuse it. Again this is probably the main reason to install the rebuild kit in the turbo since the other parts looked alright. In the long run in this case it was much easier to work on the turbo by taking the exhaust manifold off and separating it than trying to drop it off with the manifold still bolted to the engine.



Got the shaft with the new oil seal in safely this time.



Got it back together on the exhaust manifold. I ended up replacing the studs on the manifold connecting to the turbo. I found the right thread but not length so I had to cut the studs to fit and torqued them down with the two-nut technique. This is the backside with a good view of the wastegate actuator.



Here's the side you'll see in the engine bay. I have some rust spots already coming through on the manifold. The right way would have been to get it media blasted before coating but it's not that important since I figure the paint will be good for the first couple of pics before it get's burn off. I figure I'll get a mud coating for protection once I get it to the trails anyways. I still have to put on the compressor wheel and housing.



Here's the port for the pyrometer probe. Is there a product to use to lock those threads in there? Or just double nut it and use a special washer (the gauge kit includes the special washer)



I picked up a front seal and this v-belt pulley from the cummins part place. It stacks on top of this other pulley and I plan to use it to run my FJ60 AC. I'll have to make brackets to mount it and might not worry about it until next spring since it seem like summer left last week.



I slid the rear axle under the springs and bolted it on loosely for mock up once I get the angle from the back of the tranny.



I cut the spring mounts off the backing plates and drilled out the centering holes to match the spring perches. They give me the option to move the axle and inch forward or backwards and that needed to be dublicated on the backing plates. I'll start with them in the centered position since I already moved the axle back a couple of inches.



I decided not to wait for my friend who has a tap and die set and just bought the tap I needed for my 203 GRB. I marked the other two holes I needed to drill and drilled. I now have a 4L80e 4x4 adapter pattern on my 203.



After I tapped them I test fitted the adapter to see if I got it right.



It fit so I pulled it off and put on the gasket. The parts guy said there were three TCs behind the 4L80e that I have so I choose this one thinking it looked about right. And it was "about" right. The holes mostly lined up so I used some RTV to help seal.



I will put in the drivetrain in two pieces, the engine/tranny, and the doubler/TC. Since the holes on the tranny to adapter match up perfectly I figured it would be better to put them together with those set of holes rather than the ones I just drilled and tapped. With that plan I bolted the adapter to the 203.





I've got some more to post after lunch.

[Mace]

Exactly what I did (a couple of times before I was happy BTW)

[boots4]

Exactly what I did (a couple of times before I was happy BTW)

MACE, I figure you are talking about putting the drivetrain together.

I do plan on a couple of assembly parties too. In fact let me show you my first put together that I'll need to do again since I didn't get the torque converter installed all the way in.

This is the piolet hole on the flywheel. I picked up a new diesel specific torque converter and it came with some installation instructions. Said to sand off the rust that can form here and grease it so that's what I did.



Poured in 1 quart into the torque converter like instructed. I thought this would go fast but it took a little time for the fluid to sink in.



Slid right on but I don't think I got it lined up quite right because it sticks out too far to mount on the flexplate.



This is the other part that needed to have the paint removed/sanded and lightly greased so that when I actually do pull the TC in with the bolts it won't get hung up in the piolet hole and cause unwanted vibrations.



I'm sure there are more elegant ways to mount your tranny to your engine but I just grabbed some blocks to get the tranny high enough and lowered the engine to thread some bolts. It was a little interesting because that adapter on the back of the 4bt has an 8 degree tilt so by sitting on the tranny I was able to tilt it a little and get the dowel pins lined up to get the bolts started.



Here's a cummins 4bt bolted straight up to a 4L80e auto tranny.



There was a little more light left that day and I couldn't just leave the engine and tranny hanging out in the open so I wheeled the hoist over to the FJ60 and threw it in. Don't get too excited yet, (even though I was) I still have to make motor mounts and all that stuff but at least it gives me an idea for clearances and placement and it makes my feel like I'm getting things accomplished. I'll definitely be pulling it in and out two more times.





Underside shot. I've got the blocks under there just for extra precaution. I lifted the back of the tranny up to see about clearances in the tunnel.



Other side



I'll have plenty of room for the starter even if I come over some.



Firewall space. BTW I coated the firewall and the tunnel with Spectrum Firewall. It is designed for heat areas and I'm planning on running the exhaust over the tranny like another local 4bt FJ60 did (it turned out good) so I figured I'd need a good coating to help reflect the heat off the exhaust. It was a pain to apply with a gun so I ended up slapping it on with a paint brush.



I thinned the Spectrum spray a little and got the gun dialed in and used up the rest of the gallon I had. I am really liking how it turned out. More of a wavy smooth finish rather than a 80's splatter painting. I'm going to get another gallon and put it all in the interior and maybe shoot some in the doors and rear panels.



Down to two pedals now. This coating is before I got the texture dialed in and is more splattery than how the rest turned out. It will get recoated and will smooth out.



Cut some holes in the dash because this is where the gauges will be going and I need to route the wires and hoses.



Got the instrument panel back together after the painting. So it and the gauge pod are the same texture and should compliment each other once installed.



Boost, pyrometer, and tranny temp gauges. The are autometer's sport comp line. I decided to get the reflective lighting to match the other gauges and hopefully they won't stick out too much at night when lighted.



Wife called me at work today and told me I got a package in the mail. That makes coming home from work even more exciting. We'll have to see what showed up.

[GreasedPiggy]

Fantastic! Things are really starting to shape up.

Will you be tilting the engine over 8 degrees or the tranny?


I was also planning on routing the exhaust behind to the DS.
Please do show photos of this, as I've not seen it anywhere
yet.

Congrats on the progress!

[boots4]

Originally Posted by GreasedPiggy

Fantastic! Things are really starting to shape up.

Will you be tilting the engine over 8 degrees or the tranny?


I was also planning on routing the exhaust behind to the DS.
Please do show photos of this, as I've not seen it anywhere
yet.

Congrats on the progress!

Thanks for following along. I'm going to keep the tranny level so the engine will get the tilt. I'll need to build that into the motor mounts. There seems to be plenty of room to lean it and it doesn't bother me to have it lean.

For the exhaust, I'm going to copy a local 4bt FJ60 and route it over the tranny like he did. He ended up using the stock p30 exhaust and with the right cuts, didn't need to buy anything for his exhaust! The pictures I took of his setup aren't the greatest but maybe one or two turned out. I'll have to look and see if any are worth posting. I'll put your request on the pics wanted list and make sure I get them when I get there. I'm undecided on a muffler and may run the p30 one initially just cause it's here and it would be something, but I don't think they quiet anything. I love hearing that turbo whistle but don't know if I want to live with just a straight pipe.

[GreasedPiggy]

'McInfantry' posted an interesting thread on a double-wrapped muffler he thought was really nice. It's on the 4btswaps site...
Might be worth thinking about, he has a lot of experience with
the motors.

[boots4]

I did see that thread and am following it. Hopefully a model number will come up to search.

[Tapage]

Damn dude .. it looking pretty nice !!!

[brokenparts]

dang it... you were at the meeting and I didnt even get a chance to meet ya. I asked Chad who the people in car with the baby was and he told me it was you. I'll make a point to meet ya next time around. Are you going to Cruising the Woods?

Hi Jack over...

[CRZA1]

I have started an exhaust like grease piggy is talking about (i think). Started mock up to get the engine positioned right. There was a thread on the swaps site. I'll post it when i find a camera.

[boots4]

Originally Posted by brokenparts

dang it... you were at the meeting and I didnt even get a chance to meet ya. I asked Chad who the people in car with the baby was and he told me it was you. I'll make a point to meet ya next time around. Are you going to Cruising the Woods?

Hi Jack over...

Next time then. I don't have a way to get out there so it looks like I'll just have to read about it in the cascade cruiser forum.

I did check out your rig thurs night and didn't think it was TOO tall. I thought it was just right. I think the springs may have settled some from your first pics of the SOA. Perhaps it's the wide tires that give it a well balanced look but did you feel tipsy on your try-out run at all? Of course I don't have to climb in and out of it so it probably gets taller at the end of the day, lol. Looking at yours makes me wonder if I'll have more sheet metal trimming than I originally thought. Maybe I will stick those extra leafs I prepped in the packs for a little more lift.

[boots4]

Originally Posted by CRZA1

I have started an exhaust like grease piggy is talking about (i think). Started mock up to get the engine positioned right. There was a thread on the swaps site. I'll post it when i find a camera.

Excited to see your progress.


Sorry guys, no pics today cause I'm doing some maintenance on the PC I keep those pics on. Doing a clean install on the OS and am having some ethernet issue which means no internet access. Perhaps I'll use the MAC tonight to get some pics up of the weekend work.

I started to modify my downpipe last weekend. I tucked it close and was able to gain 2 more inches to move the engine back. I'm going to run an intercooler so I wanted to make sure I'd have plenty of room in front of the engine. I tested various positions and think I've got the motor where I want it and I ended up fabbing the engine-side motor mounts. I took my time cause I incorporated the 8 degrees of tilt in them and I wanted to get it right. My plan is to have the engine in by this coming weekend which means frame-side mounts and to start working on the trans crossmember.

[Captain23]

Hey Mike,

I found an intercooler on ebay for a volvo that will fit in behind the grill for 30 bucks! Its pretty much the same as this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Volvo...spagenameZWDVW

[brokenparts]

Originally Posted by boots4

Next time then. I don't have a way to get out there so it looks like I'll just have to read about it in the cascade cruiser forum.

I did check out your rig thurs night and didn't think it was TOO tall. I thought it was just right. I think the springs may have settled some from your first pics of the SOA. Perhaps it's the wide tires that give it a well balanced look but did you feel tipsy on your try-out run at all? Of course I don't have to climb in and out of it so it probably gets taller at the end of the day, lol. Looking at yours makes me wonder if I'll have more sheet metal trimming than I originally thought. Maybe I will stick those extra leafs I prepped in the packs for a little more lift.

Man, I'd have ya come along but I wont be heading out there till 2pm... after my daughters soccer game. I'm basically just going out there to shuck some corn for the BBQ that night and say hello to everyone.

The tryout run went well... all and all I dont think the extra height is that big of a deal due to the width and how predictable it seems to be.

[4alarm]

Awesome build up man!

[boots4]

Originally Posted by 4alarm

Awesome build up man!

Thanks.

I was able to grab some pics and upload them on another computer.

This is the modified downpipe that I gained two inches with. I'll drop it on the other side of the tranny and route it out back like the old system did. The heat-shield's are all on that side. I cut about a 1/2" gap and bent it tighter. That didn't get me tight enough so I cut out the v-clamp fitting, removed 1" of length and welded it back up at an angle to get it what it is now. Not only does it curve but it goes up to clear the tranny hump so that's why it's only that long. It will need more angles to dump it down the other side.



Once I got the engine back with the downpipe mod I played with the clearance up front. After playing it became obvious which order I was going to place things in. I wanted to place the intercooler up front so it hit the air flow first but putting it like this will be too easy to pass up. To put it up front I would have to do surgery on the support. Sure it could be done but this is just too easy to pass up.



The AC will stay in it's original position with it's original mounts. The intercooler will go next and then the radiator. All I should have to do is make some new brackets to mount the intercooler and modify the old radiator brackets.



Just to give some breathing room I will need to grind down the flares on the edge of the radiator so I will fit between the intercooler ports.



Driver side motor mount. In order to get the 8 degrees of tilt in the engine I incorporated that in the mounts. Driver side is 53 degrees (plus 8 degrees) which will be mounted on a 45 degree frame plate.





Passenger side motor mount. It's at 37 degrees (minus 8 degrees) and will mount on a 45 degree frame mount.



This side was a little more tricky because I had to deal with the oil return line from the turbo. I did some notching and gusseting.



More pics of the mounts. Driver has the gusset on the backside. Passenger has the notch and gusset at the rear.







Mounts will go like this



Dodge Ram 1st gen cummins mounts. I still need to drill them to soften them up. The 4bt vibrates more than the 6bt so that's the reason to soften them up.

[brokenparts]

wow, so impressed!

[Tapage]

Those are the factory 4BT motor mounts . ? you keep plenty of room behind the factory rad .. did you gonna need more core rad ..? or make a shroud .?

[gifu]

Looks like this will be a real nice truck. I noticed that when you put the torque-converter on, you said, "
Slid right on but I don't think I got it lined up quite right because it sticks out too far to mount on the flexplate." This has me a little worried; when you install a torque-converter, you are supposed to slids it on, then rotate it while pushing... there should be two more "steps" as things line up and the torque converter slides all the way on. You'll know it's on all the way, if... once the motor is mounted to the tranny... you find that the converter must be slid forward 1/2" or so. If it was already touching the flexplate... you didn't do it right. And I understand this could potentially damage the converter. I'm not expert... this is just what transmission guys have told me.

otherwise... looks real nice.

[CRZA1]

Your exhaust is nearly identical to what I have done. Still looking for more 3" mandrel bent tube (havent really looked that hard). I'm interested in where you frame side mounts end up vertically on the frame rails. Mine are a few inches below the rails, but I have the vertical fluid filles type. I am going to work on it this eve so I'll try to start a thread so you can see my project. You have quickly caught up to me and I am a solid year deep.

[boots4]

Originally Posted by Tapage

Those are the factory 4BT motor mounts . ? you keep plenty of room behind the factory rad .. did you gonna need more core rad ..? or make a shroud .?

The 4bt has come with different mounts in the stepvans and in mine I had the liquid filled ones. The ones I'm using now are for a 89-93 1st gen Dodge Ram with a cummins 6bt. So they didn't come factory from my van but I have heard of other stepvans having mounts that look similar.

I don't think I'll need a bigger radiator (more cooling power) and I plan on running an electric fan, either the contour or taurus fan and those come with shrouds that fit pretty well from what I've read. However, I think I will have a radiator shop test it just to see where it's at although I never had a problem with it in front of the 2F. I've been reading about relays and how to wire up the fan so that when I get to that point I'll have a plan. I was planning on buying a wiring kit (and maybe I still will) but with enough knowledge it doesn't look too hard to get it right.

[boots4]

Originally Posted by brokenparts

wow, so impressed!

Thanks again, now if I can remeber how to wheel I just might keep up with you on the trail.