Family haulin' - Page 5

Kavik · 07-30-07, 11:43 AM

This is like a step by step of what I will be doing soon...

Great work, keep up the pics!

boots4 · 07-30-07, 01:13 PM

Thanks again guys, this part of the build feels like the toy section.

As for the crossmember, I will be building a new one since I am cutting off the old mounts. I will most likely need to make a U in the new member for the driveshaft. I just wanted to see what kind of clearance issues I might have with that combo and will need a new front driveshaft anyways (lengthening and longer slipspline and what the heck go with a CV so I can angle the axle up for more clearance).

Yes Eskimo, the 4L80e-3 kit from trans-go eliminates the electronics basically turning it into a manual without a clutch, meaning I'll have to shift it from gear to gear. I'm going to use the mech speedo cable hooked up to my transfer case so I don't need the sensor that came on the tranny. I'm looking at different shifters, one from Lokar and of course the well liked (but expensive) one from Art Carr. The "electronics" that I'm keeping are the solenoid that controls the lock-up in the lock-up torque converter. I haven't worked out the details yet (ie wiring, stepping down the voltage, button location) but the plan is to allow lock up in any gear giving me manual efficiency and downhill engine braking. Sounds great for offroad but I'll have to let you know how it feels on the street. I don't know if it will be "clunky" or just shift firmly, there just isn't much google reviewing on these yet. The kit allows for different shift firmness determined by the size of the holes drilled in the separator plate at certain locations. There were three levels, stock, firm, offroad/competition. I choose firm thinking it will be better for street driving.

boots4 · 08-01-07, 01:29 PM

I was just reading in the diesel forum this morning and Greg_B

posted a link to some diesel tech that I think is noteworthy to pass on. I've been reading the articles all morning. Just wanted to share it with all who are interested in diesels!

http://www.bankspower.com/tech.cfm

Check it out. Definitely pro diesel.

Tapage · 08-01-07, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boots4

I was just reading in the diesel forum this morning and Greg_B

posted a link to some diesel tech that I think is noteworthy to pass on. I've been reading the articles all morning. Just wanted to share it with all who are interested in diesels!

http://www.bankspower.com/tech.cfm

Check it out. Definitely pro diesel.

Are great and provide some interesting information about Diesel capabilities .. read the faqs ..

Like btu from gas and diesel ..

HI^C · 08-02-07, 10:02 AM

clocking

yep i know this, just was curious if you were going to straighten up the mounting for the motor, then clock the t case back flat. OR at least flat bottom if still having leaning motor. set it up drill holes, then drill or die grind the adapter where the cap heads hit.

i understand i prefer GM stuff as well, just options for keeping full auto with a OD for really easy.

manual kits been out for yrs , with or without compression breaking. Several variations and warnings with all of them. ALL are manual shift only at least so far. FEEL of, is more preference IMO, i prefer extremely firm to near snap neck shifts and i always have been that way. Some people dont like it and i understand it as well, but that is why i built it for myself

diesels run cooler then gas motors, only under loads over time do they require more cooling, usually done by just increasing the overall amount of fluid in the cooling system. yes more available energy from diesel, but more efficient less wasted energy, less heat.

can you pull back of trans to end of splines measurement on that output ? looks like the 4.5" ?

BTW spend time on dodge 1stgen forums for the 4bt

several great ones out there.

boots4 · 08-02-07, 07:26 PM

HI^C, I'm out of town for the weekend so I won't be able to get those measurements you asked for until the trip is over. I don't mind running the engine with the tilt. As for grinding the adapter for the bolt heads, if I cannot find some bolts at the local hardware shop I'll probably follow your advice on clearancing the adapter. There is plenty material in that adapter so I don't see a problem taking off just a little. I don't know how important to me it is to get a completely flat belly.

Do you have a particular 1stgen dodge forum that you like to visit and could link here? I figured those guys already have a 6bt or 6at (i think) and it'd be interesting to know why they would swap in a smaller motor (4bt). If it's just for the mileage or other reasons?

HI^C · 08-02-07, 10:56 PM

no problem, in no hurry just curious i dont/havent used a 4x4 4l80 just yet.

1st gen ie 89-93 dodge 6bt is the same engine you have +2 so all the parts, mods, info, turbo, rotary bosch VE pump, etc.... is all applicable

boots4 · 08-07-07, 11:40 AM

Just got back last night and thought I'd show how I'm going to cool my tranny

This is my tranny cooler I grabbed off ebay. It's a dodge cummins 3rd gen cooler that runs off the engine coolant. I've been reading some good info on tranny temps and how similar to an engine there is a more efficient operating range. So the tranny and diesel engine will help each other out. Again, I'll install a temp gauge on the tranny and if it is running hotter than I want I will install an inline cooler. Once I get the engine mounted I'll figure out a place to put this and then work on routing and connections.

Tapage · 08-07-07, 02:30 PM

Huge cooler .. but in the cummings also you have a rad oil line to help in cooling issue ?

boots4 · 08-07-07, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tapage

Huge cooler .. but in the cummings also you have a rad oil line to help in cooling issue ?

Yes, there is a built in oil cooler on the cummins 4bt and 6bt. That's where the feeder for the turbo comes from.

boots4 · 08-13-07, 09:32 AM

Sure doesn't feel like I got much done this weekend. Just a lot of cleaning. I think the previous owner had the frame wax coated since there is a waxy residue still on it after I have scrubbed the frame by hand. I plan on recoating the frame so I'm going to have to get that off so the paint will stick. Also scrubbed the axles so I can paint them after I weld on them. Measured, marked and drilled my piolet holes for where I'm going to put shackles through the frame and just need to pick up a hole saw to make my holes. Then I found some rims that I liked better than the ones I had so I picked them up.

Here are the old rims I painted with hammerite and was going to use. Now I'll just sell them.

The new rims. They have 35s on them that I don't care for.

Just for fun.

The 38s make those 35s look small

38s, trimming required

Before the scrub down

After some knuckle grease

boots4 · 08-13-07, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HI^C

can you pull back of trans to end of splines measurement on that output ? looks like the 4.5" ?

The measurement from the back of the mounting surface to the end of the output shaft without the 4x4 adapter on is 3 inches.

boots4 · 08-20-07, 10:51 AM

Worked hard this weekend and got the leaf springs all set up unfortunately with some re-work. The rears lined up perfectly and bolted on but the fronts required the re-work; now it lines up and I feel much better about it.

Here is the kit I used. I bought 4 of them. Comes with an insert, bushings for that insert, and a bolt. Oh yeah and a sticker that will probably give me 20HP

Picked up a 2 inch hole saw and started drilling. This is the passenger front.

Here is the insert in the driver side. I shortened the body mount for shackle clearance. I probably could have cut off less but this made it a little easier to get in there to cut, grind, and weld.

Here it is welded in the first time.

The rear hole ended up right where a factory hole was. I needed a guide for the drill on the holesaw so I tacked a piece on and cut from the other side. Once I cut through the frame I removed my guide plate.

Passenger rear hole cut through the frame from the inside. You can see the guide plate through the hole. This was one of my reasons for boxing in the rear part of the cruiser frame.

After doing some calculations and testing shackle lengths I decided on 5 inch eye-to-eye for the fronts and 6 inch for the rears. Cut these out, tacked them together, and drilled them out on a drill press.

Made two sets for the front and one for the rear. I doubled up the fronts but not the rear. Fronts on the left (1/4 in) and center (3/16 in); rears on the right (1/4 in).

Welded the fronts together and painted them all.

The first time the front springs ended up pointing inwards. I measured three times before I welded it in but I must have missed something because it was wrong. I decided to cut out the shackle mounts and fix the angle. After the re-work I tacked everything together and test fit. I had it right the second time so I took the springs off again and welded everything back on. The front springs are now on.

Driver side front spring hanger.

Passenger side front spring hanger

Passenger front re-worked shackle mount and shackle.

Front inside frame view.

Passenger side rear spring

Passenger rear shackle and mount. These lined right up just like I planned.

Rear shackle angle with no load.

Got new studs, spaced them with washers and attached the discs to the rear axle.

boots4 · 08-20-07, 11:18 AM

Once the springs were done I directed my focus on the engine.

I figured out a way to get the crank pulley off by myself and took off the cover plate to address the KDP. The crank turns the oil pump to the left. To the right the crank powers the camshaft which powers the hydraulic pump (it's a saginaw, powered by the smaller gear) and the fuel pump.

This is the KDP, the killer dowel pin. It's located to the left of that bolt head. This thing will work out and you can see what kind of damage it could do with all those gears working together. The pic makes it look like it's close to level with the case but my pin is actually seated well inside the hole which was a good sign.

The fix is very simple. Restrict it from coming out. I had an broken scale laying around that I cut a piece from. I shaped it, bent it, removed all the paint from it, and fastened it with the bolt that was already there. Now if the pin tries to come out it will hit that tab and it will stop it. This is a common problem on the 4bt's and the 6bt's. One of the very few problems needing to be fixed on these engines

This is the backside of the cover plate. I cleaned it up before putting it back on.

Got out the ol' toothbrush and degreaser and got busy detail cleaning the engine. I'm getting it ready for paint but it sure looks better.

Before:

After:

Still soaking the turbo. This week the band is recording. 12 hr work days and recording for 5 hrs after that will make this a long week!

Tapage · 08-20-07, 12:28 PM

looking your front springs .. ( maybe just a photo monitor view ) looks your center pin are a little ahead. it could help in the ride section ( with your SR setup ) but could make a little more complicated get the right caster angle in your front housing/knuckles.

boots4 · 08-20-07, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tapage

looking your front springs .. ( maybe just a photo monitor view ) looks your center pin are a little ahead. it could help in the ride section ( with your SR setup ) but could make a little more complicated get the right caster angle in your front housing/knuckles.

That's with the springs unloaded and I think they will flatten some with weight. I know the caster will change some when the springs flex but I'll need weight on it to measure the adjustment for my caster. I am planning on a cut 'n turn and maybe I'll add a degree or two more, I was going to shoot for 5-6 degrees. I think a little more is better for bigger tires. For on road handling I don't anticipate seeing the suspension move like it would off road so caster shouldn't change drastically plus I'll be running my swaybar on road to help even things out. We'll have to see how it does.

Tapage · 08-20-07, 04:32 PM

you plan to run 38+ tires i'll chot on 9 - 10º of caster .. but as you right shot, you need to place wight and see how it goes ..

aglandcattleman · 08-25-07, 04:03 PM

This is great man. I love the diesel swap!!!! You are getting alot done for working out of "Big Sky Garage" !!! ha ha I would do something about gusseting the front spring front eyebolt hanger!!! Unless I am not seeing it right. Keep the updates coming and thanks for the inspiration!!!

boots4 · 08-26-07, 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aglandcattleman

This is great man. I love the diesel swap!!!! You are getting alot done for working out of "Big Sky Garage" !!! ha ha I would do something about gusseting the front spring front eyebolt hanger!!! Unless I am not seeing it right. Keep the updates coming and thanks for the inspiration!!!

Thanks, and yes I do plan on gusseting those mounts. I have not done that yet. I think I'll put two on the sides: one underneath and one on top although I can probably get away with just one. I've been focusing on the engine lately so I can get that sucker put in!

boots4 · 08-27-07, 10:27 AM

Busy week at work and then recording at night but I managed to get a little time on the cruiser. I've been trying to focus on the engine because that's what is holding up the rest of the drivetrain. I needed to do just a little more cleaning before I could paint it and I'll probably open up the front cover again and get to the other bolts behind the gears to locktight them. I ordered my trio of gauges and they will be here by thursday. I got the common setup most diesel guys like to run: Pyrometer, Boost, and tranny temp.

I took off the valve covers so I could get inbetween them to clean out the crud.

Inside of valve covers.

Wire-brushed the engine to rough up the paint.

Taping up the parts I don't want painted.

Painted with cummins beige. I sprayed two coats and used two cans; one can per coat.

My stepvan came with a mech. temp gauge so I thought I'd find a place for it and hook it up. The pod I bought for my trio of gauges is only for a trio so I found this spot that had nothing in it. With a face plate and a little trimming it should fit fine.

I finally sold my engine (the 2F) this weekend so that means more funds. I spent some time cleaning up the scrap aluminum (removing other metals like bolts, hinges, or screws) from the stepvan so that I get the better rate for it.

boots4 · 09-10-07, 10:04 AM

After soaking the turbo for several weeks I decided to hit it a little harder with the hammer and still got no movement. For fun I thought to hit it to try and spin it rather than hit it off. This time it did move and I was able to get the turbine housing off. I had to take the compressor wheel and backing plate off in order to do this. Here's my mess of parts.

Just the turbine housing.

This is the kit I bought from http://www.htturbo.com

The compressor wheel is off, the compressor backing plate it off and this is the inside of the turbo. I tapped out the shaft to get to the bushings. The bushings are held in place by snap-rings.

Pulling the bushing out. Under the bushing is another snap-ring so the bushing is sandwiched by snap-rings. The kit comes with two bushings and 4 snap-rings for replacement.

I coated the bushings with motor oil before I put them back in.

The new bushing is now in place. Once I got this side done I flipped it over and did the same for the other side.

Next I put the oil seal on the shaft and started to tap it in. It gave more resistance than what felt right and when I looked at it the oil seal did not get in the hole and bent. The old seal was grooved and probably the main reason to rebuild this turbo so I can't reuse it. Now I'm trying to hunt down just that part instead of having to buy another rebuild kit just for that seal. Didn't get anywhere last week so I painted the turbo housing and the turbine housing and stopped there with the turbo.

Still lots of other stuff to do so I drilled my exhaust manifold for my pyrometer. The reading will be higher right before the turbo inlet but more accurate IMO.

boots4 · 09-10-07, 11:15 AM

I got my gauges (autometer sport comp series) and gauge pod from http://www.egauges.com This will mount on top of the dash above the center vents.

Taped the instrument panel for painting.

I didn't think I could match the dash color very well so I decided to paint them the same way for a theme. I've painted the vents outside the same and might paint some other stuff inside the same way.

I'm using the hammerite rustoleum stuff. I think it will turn out alright once it's all together.

Thought about where to put the sender unit for the tranny temp gauge and read about people putting it in the pressure testing port (bolt head in the center of the pic)

I tested the depth to make sure I wasn't going to run into anything and I had plenty of clearance. It threaded right in like it was ment to be there.

This has been done on here and it's pretty cheap to update the lighting inside the cruiser. Except for the vent controls (light isn't working and I'll troubleshoot that some other time) I'm converting everything to LEDs. All instrumentation and dome lighting will now be LEDs. When deciding on which gauges to get I decided against the "through the dial" lighting (sport comp II) because I think those gauges would stick out too much compared to the tired lighting from the factory. Plus the factory is the reflective style and not through the dial. So, figuring the new gauges will still be brighter I decided to get LED bulbs for the factory gauges and the new gauges I bought. I'm hoping this will help even things out a little and the new gauges won't be too bright at night. I chose the "cool white" color. It they look anything like the LED night lights we have in the house I think I'm going to like them. If the color is too bright I can always try a different color. The bulbs aren't spendy at all.

This is for the water temp gauge that came from the stepvan. I grabbed a 4-LED bulb for it.

07-30-07, 11:43 AM	#121
Kavik IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Phoenix Posts: 706	This is like a step by step of what I will be doing soon... Great work, keep up the pics! __________________ 85' FJ60 - 2F, desmog, 4-spd, 4.88's, Aussie rear, SOA, 37's on 2" bs Copper State Cruisers #71 KavikOffRoad.com 60 Series porn

07-30-07, 01:13 PM	#122
boots4 IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Portland OR Posts: 659	Thanks again guys, this part of the build feels like the toy section. As for the crossmember, I will be building a new one since I am cutting off the old mounts. I will most likely need to make a U in the new member for the driveshaft. I just wanted to see what kind of clearance issues I might have with that combo and will need a new front driveshaft anyways (lengthening and longer slipspline and what the heck go with a CV so I can angle the axle up for more clearance). Yes Eskimo, the 4L80e-3 kit from trans-go eliminates the electronics basically turning it into a manual without a clutch, meaning I'll have to shift it from gear to gear. I'm going to use the mech speedo cable hooked up to my transfer case so I don't need the sensor that came on the tranny. I'm looking at different shifters, one from Lokar and of course the well liked (but expensive) one from Art Carr. The "electronics" that I'm keeping are the solenoid that controls the lock-up in the lock-up torque converter. I haven't worked out the details yet (ie wiring, stepping down the voltage, button location) but the plan is to allow lock up in any gear giving me manual efficiency and downhill engine braking. Sounds great for offroad but I'll have to let you know how it feels on the street. I don't know if it will be "clunky" or just shift firmly, there just isn't much google reviewing on these yet. The kit allows for different shift firmness determined by the size of the holes drilled in the separator plate at certain locations. There were three levels, stock, firm, offroad/competition. I choose firm thinking it will be better for street driving. __________________ 85 FJ60, testing, Cummins 4BTA, manual 4L80E, 203 to splitcase doubler, SOA, 38s, some other stuff. build-up: Family Haulin' FJ60 Last edited by boots4; 07-30-07 at 03:17 PM.

08-01-07, 01:29 PM	#123
boots4 IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Portland OR Posts: 659	I was just reading in the diesel forum this morning and Greg_B posted a link to some diesel tech that I think is noteworthy to pass on. I've been reading the articles all morning. Just wanted to share it with all who are interested in diesels! http://www.bankspower.com/tech.cfm Check it out. Definitely pro diesel. __________________ 85 FJ60, testing, Cummins 4BTA, manual 4L80E, 203 to splitcase doubler, SOA, 38s, some other stuff. build-up: Family Haulin' FJ60

08-02-07, 10:02 AM	#125
HI^C IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: May 2003 Posts: 1,134	clocking yep i know this, just was curious if you were going to straighten up the mounting for the motor, then clock the t case back flat. OR at least flat bottom if still having leaning motor. set it up drill holes, then drill or die grind the adapter where the cap heads hit. i understand i prefer GM stuff as well, just options for keeping full auto with a OD for really easy. manual kits been out for yrs , with or without compression breaking. Several variations and warnings with all of them. ALL are manual shift only at least so far. FEEL of, is more preference IMO, i prefer extremely firm to near snap neck shifts and i always have been that way. Some people dont like it and i understand it as well, but that is why i built it for myself diesels run cooler then gas motors, only under loads over time do they require more cooling, usually done by just increasing the overall amount of fluid in the cooling system. yes more available energy from diesel, but more efficient less wasted energy, less heat. can you pull back of trans to end of splines measurement on that output ? looks like the 4.5" ? BTW spend time on dodge 1stgen forums for the 4bt several great ones out there. __________________ EMAIL ME click on my name, Send email to HI^C TONS FOR SALE <<<CLICK ME "everyone has different experiences and different opinions" My posts "greatly based on my observations and opinions" and "TO EACH HIS OWN" Sig edited to help futher eliminate those who have or get twisted panities.

08-02-07, 07:26 PM	#126
boots4 IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Portland OR Posts: 659	HI^C, I'm out of town for the weekend so I won't be able to get those measurements you asked for until the trip is over. I don't mind running the engine with the tilt. As for grinding the adapter for the bolt heads, if I cannot find some bolts at the local hardware shop I'll probably follow your advice on clearancing the adapter. There is plenty material in that adapter so I don't see a problem taking off just a little. I don't know how important to me it is to get a completely flat belly. Do you have a particular 1stgen dodge forum that you like to visit and could link here? I figured those guys already have a 6bt or 6at (i think) and it'd be interesting to know why they would swap in a smaller motor (4bt). If it's just for the mileage or other reasons? __________________ 85 FJ60, testing, Cummins 4BTA, manual 4L80E, 203 to splitcase doubler, SOA, 38s, some other stuff. build-up: Family Haulin' FJ60 Last edited by boots4; 08-08-07 at 03:52 PM.

08-02-07, 10:56 PM	#127
HI^C IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: May 2003 Posts: 1,134	no problem, in no hurry just curious i dont/havent used a 4x4 4l80 just yet. 1st gen ie 89-93 dodge 6bt is the same engine you have +2 so all the parts, mods, info, turbo, rotary bosch VE pump, etc.... is all applicable __________________ EMAIL ME click on my name, Send email to HI^C TONS FOR SALE <<<CLICK ME "everyone has different experiences and different opinions" My posts "greatly based on my observations and opinions" and "TO EACH HIS OWN" Sig edited to help futher eliminate those who have or get twisted panities.

08-07-07, 11:40 AM	#128
boots4 IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Portland OR Posts: 659	Just got back last night and thought I'd show how I'm going to cool my tranny This is my tranny cooler I grabbed off ebay. It's a dodge cummins 3rd gen cooler that runs off the engine coolant. I've been reading some good info on tranny temps and how similar to an engine there is a more efficient operating range. So the tranny and diesel engine will help each other out. Again, I'll install a temp gauge on the tranny and if it is running hotter than I want I will install an inline cooler. Once I get the engine mounted I'll figure out a place to put this and then work on routing and connections. __________________ 85 FJ60, testing, Cummins 4BTA, manual 4L80E, 203 to splitcase doubler, SOA, 38s, some other stuff. build-up: Family Haulin' FJ60

08-13-07, 09:32 AM	#131
boots4 IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Portland OR Posts: 659	weekly update Sure doesn't feel like I got much done this weekend. Just a lot of cleaning. I think the previous owner had the frame wax coated since there is a waxy residue still on it after I have scrubbed the frame by hand. I plan on recoating the frame so I'm going to have to get that off so the paint will stick. Also scrubbed the axles so I can paint them after I weld on them. Measured, marked and drilled my piolet holes for where I'm going to put shackles through the frame and just need to pick up a hole saw to make my holes. Then I found some rims that I liked better than the ones I had so I picked them up. Here are the old rims I painted with hammerite and was going to use. Now I'll just sell them. The new rims. They have 35s on them that I don't care for. Just for fun. The 38s make those 35s look small 38s, trimming required Before the scrub down After some knuckle grease __________________ 85 FJ60, testing, Cummins 4BTA, manual 4L80E, 203 to splitcase doubler, SOA, 38s, some other stuff. build-up: Family Haulin' FJ60

08-20-07, 10:51 AM	#133
boots4 IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Portland OR Posts: 659	weekly update Worked hard this weekend and got the leaf springs all set up unfortunately with some re-work. The rears lined up perfectly and bolted on but the fronts required the re-work; now it lines up and I feel much better about it. Here is the kit I used. I bought 4 of them. Comes with an insert, bushings for that insert, and a bolt. Oh yeah and a sticker that will probably give me 20HP Picked up a 2 inch hole saw and started drilling. This is the passenger front. Here is the insert in the driver side. I shortened the body mount for shackle clearance. I probably could have cut off less but this made it a little easier to get in there to cut, grind, and weld. Here it is welded in the first time. The rear hole ended up right where a factory hole was. I needed a guide for the drill on the holesaw so I tacked a piece on and cut from the other side. Once I cut through the frame I removed my guide plate. Passenger rear hole cut through the frame from the inside. You can see the guide plate through the hole. This was one of my reasons for boxing in the rear part of the cruiser frame. After doing some calculations and testing shackle lengths I decided on 5 inch eye-to-eye for the fronts and 6 inch for the rears. Cut these out, tacked them together, and drilled them out on a drill press. Made two sets for the front and one for the rear. I doubled up the fronts but not the rear. Fronts on the left (1/4 in) and center (3/16 in); rears on the right (1/4 in). Welded the fronts together and painted them all. The first time the front springs ended up pointing inwards. I measured three times before I welded it in but I must have missed something because it was wrong. I decided to cut out the shackle mounts and fix the angle. After the re-work I tacked everything together and test fit. I had it right the second time so I took the springs off again and welded everything back on. The front springs are now on. Driver side front spring hanger. Passenger side front spring hanger Passenger front re-worked shackle mount and shackle. Front inside frame view. Passenger side rear spring Passenger rear shackle and mount. These lined right up just like I planned. Rear shackle angle with no load. Got new studs, spaced them with washers and attached the discs to the rear axle. __________________ 85 FJ60, testing, Cummins 4BTA, manual 4L80E, 203 to splitcase doubler, SOA, 38s, some other stuff. build-up: Family Haulin' FJ60

08-20-07, 11:18 AM	#134
boots4 IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Portland OR Posts: 659	Once the springs were done I directed my focus on the engine. I figured out a way to get the crank pulley off by myself and took off the cover plate to address the KDP. The crank turns the oil pump to the left. To the right the crank powers the camshaft which powers the hydraulic pump (it's a saginaw, powered by the smaller gear) and the fuel pump. This is the KDP, the killer dowel pin. It's located to the left of that bolt head. This thing will work out and you can see what kind of damage it could do with all those gears working together. The pic makes it look like it's close to level with the case but my pin is actually seated well inside the hole which was a good sign. The fix is very simple. Restrict it from coming out. I had an broken scale laying around that I cut a piece from. I shaped it, bent it, removed all the paint from it, and fastened it with the bolt that was already there. Now if the pin tries to come out it will hit that tab and it will stop it. This is a common problem on the 4bt's and the 6bt's. One of the very few problems needing to be fixed on these engines This is the backside of the cover plate. I cleaned it up before putting it back on. Got out the ol' toothbrush and degreaser and got busy detail cleaning the engine. I'm getting it ready for paint but it sure looks better. Before: After: Still soaking the turbo. This week the band is recording. 12 hr work days and recording for 5 hrs after that will make this a long week! __________________ 85 FJ60, testing, Cummins 4BTA, manual 4L80E, 203 to splitcase doubler, SOA, 38s, some other stuff. build-up: Family Haulin' FJ60 Last edited by boots4; 08-28-07 at 10:06 AM.

08-25-07, 04:03 PM	#138
aglandcattleman IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Kansas Posts: 9	sweet project...... This is great man. I love the diesel swap!!!! You are getting alot done for working out of "Big Sky Garage" !!! ha ha I would do something about gusseting the front spring front eyebolt hanger!!! Unless I am not seeing it right. Keep the updates coming and thanks for the inspiration!!!

08-27-07, 10:27 AM	#140
boots4 IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Portland OR Posts: 659	weekly update Busy week at work and then recording at night but I managed to get a little time on the cruiser. I've been trying to focus on the engine because that's what is holding up the rest of the drivetrain. I needed to do just a little more cleaning before I could paint it and I'll probably open up the front cover again and get to the other bolts behind the gears to locktight them. I ordered my trio of gauges and they will be here by thursday. I got the common setup most diesel guys like to run: Pyrometer, Boost, and tranny temp. I took off the valve covers so I could get inbetween them to clean out the crud. Inside of valve covers. Wire-brushed the engine to rough up the paint. Taping up the parts I don't want painted. Painted with cummins beige. I sprayed two coats and used two cans; one can per coat. My stepvan came with a mech. temp gauge so I thought I'd find a place for it and hook it up. The pod I bought for my trio of gauges is only for a trio so I found this spot that had nothing in it. With a face plate and a little trimming it should fit fine. I finally sold my engine (the 2F) this weekend so that means more funds. I spent some time cleaning up the scrap aluminum (removing other metals like bolts, hinges, or screws) from the stepvan so that I get the better rate for it. __________________ 85 FJ60, testing, Cummins 4BTA, manual 4L80E, 203 to splitcase doubler, SOA, 38s, some other stuff. build-up: Family Haulin' FJ60

09-10-07, 10:04 AM	#141
boots4 IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Portland OR Posts: 659	After soaking the turbo for several weeks I decided to hit it a little harder with the hammer and still got no movement. For fun I thought to hit it to try and spin it rather than hit it off. This time it did move and I was able to get the turbine housing off. I had to take the compressor wheel and backing plate off in order to do this. Here's my mess of parts. Just the turbine housing. This is the kit I bought from http://www.htturbo.com The compressor wheel is off, the compressor backing plate it off and this is the inside of the turbo. I tapped out the shaft to get to the bushings. The bushings are held in place by snap-rings. Pulling the bushing out. Under the bushing is another snap-ring so the bushing is sandwiched by snap-rings. The kit comes with two bushings and 4 snap-rings for replacement. I coated the bushings with motor oil before I put them back in. The new bushing is now in place. Once I got this side done I flipped it over and did the same for the other side. Next I put the oil seal on the shaft and started to tap it in. It gave more resistance than what felt right and when I looked at it the oil seal did not get in the hole and bent. The old seal was grooved and probably the main reason to rebuild this turbo so I can't reuse it. Now I'm trying to hunt down just that part instead of having to buy another rebuild kit just for that seal. Didn't get anywhere last week so I painted the turbo housing and the turbine housing and stopped there with the turbo. Still lots of other stuff to do so I drilled my exhaust manifold for my pyrometer. The reading will be higher right before the turbo inlet but more accurate IMO. __________________ 85 FJ60, testing, Cummins 4BTA, manual 4L80E, 203 to splitcase doubler, SOA, 38s, some other stuff. build-up: Family Haulin' FJ60 Last edited by boots4; 10-09-07 at 12:27 PM.